flagmanruss

I used to have a bullet casting business. I shut it down when I got divorced & there were orders not picked up. So I have many 500 pc boxes of slugs in pistol calibers. Mostly 38 Super but will work in similar bores (38/357) with a taper crimp. I sold the automatic casting machines but still have 1000# of alloy in the barn & my original hand molds. Powder & primers might be an issue eventually. People come around & offer to "take it off my hands"... I'm not selling at yard sale prices.Oh, yes, I still have some loaded ammo & factory loads too.

I think I suggested that the thermostat might be worn & not opening fully. Time to replace.

$3.85 for Diesel here... darn taxes

I never got 7 in one day... but cauterizing was discussed. I pretty much outgrew them except when the irritation of a cold weakens the nasal membrane.

Have you actually inspected the filter, filter box & tube through the fender? In my area, mice look for nice warm places. I've had to screen all air intakes. (I like aluminum gutter guard which is pretty malleable.) My neighbor found his air filter full of acorns & my old Chevy one ton... before I screened... the mice dragged a whole roll of paper towels into the corrugated hose (from the trailer parked next to it, packing for a trip)... was blowing black smoke under load like a steam train!I've had some luck holding paper pleats down & tapping a filter against a tree. Flexing a paper element will let a lot of crapola fall out.It may be that this filter is more restrictive than OEM.

I have done the grease on ball trick but only occasionally. If I can't see any damaged parts, I'm going to grease from underneath, work with pliers, THEN grease on top of the ball.Has to wait until I get the trailer out of jail (the shop). I've been trying to find pictures of a similar coupler on line, to see if I can get more information. I have an email in to THOR to see if I can get an ID on this hitch (Make / Model) or even better, instructions... maybe I can get some information. Not holding my breath!*** I did stop in a RV dealer... decent folks... and they have a similar coupler new on the shelf which I was able to turn over while I worked the mechanism. I think the reason we can not get the handle fully into the release position is the tongue is jammed. The release mechanism is pretty directly connected to the coupler tongue... not much to it. When the release handle is in it's fully released position, it sits in a notch. We want to take white model paint to mark the correct position. The tongue is forward of the latch slot... some spray oil or grease might be introduced from there. Alternately, try to work some grease in from the ball area. Or both.

I guess it's not directly related to the WD devise. I've never had a latch wear out but then again, I do not know the history of the trailer. I thank you. I'm thinking that I should inspect the coupler internals while someone holds the release from above... depending what I find... greasing it makes a lot of sense... but to be open to the possibility that it might be worn / damaged. The trailer is an 01, started life in California now on the East Coast 12 years & several owners later... who knows what else?? WD hitches put different stresses on the ball & coupler.

I wouldn't know... you tell me? Cold meds can trigger them, my recent ones have been before/during/after a cold. I can't remember the nurse... I should though. Same one who thought my arm wasn't broken after I got "bumped" off a jungle gym at recess. Well how'd you get your winter coat off with a broken arm? I got the other arm out & let the broken arm hang & coat fell on the floor... where it still was.

When I was a kid... I got nose bleeds all the time. I'd probably have gotten better grades if I'm not spent so much time in the nurse's office. I still get them once in a while... funny I can feel then starting even before the first drip. Been known to wake me from a sound sleep... I think my current meds aggravate it.

Please pardon my faulty memory & possibly (probably) dumb questions. I read a while back about someone who had built a Cummins truck engine around marine pistons... supposed to be the 'hot set up' and then was stuck being forced to use marine injectors with a less than desirable spray pattern. I take it that these are not those pistons. Which makes me ask outside of "strength" what are the differences? Bowl shape?

Well, folks, we tried it exactly as you describe... then rocked the trailer forward & back but the underneath part of the coupler would not release. The more I think about this, the more convinced I am that coupler was not releasing either because of jamming or because we weren't able to get the release fully disengaged. So the hitch was trying to prevent a disaster (run away trailer) by staying / re-latching itself. When I get access again, I'm going to have to look underneath while someone works it... maybe a grease job while I'm there... I am still suspicious that we've not getting the latch released & this one doesn't have a relaxed, disengaged position to my knowledge.

Yesterday we took the old & abused Tahoe Transport Toy Hauler to an independent shop to have repairs done and a new rubber roof put on. There will be more on this but what's on my mind right now is how hard this trailer is to uncouple the WD hitch after use. I hate WD hitches but it is more than needed to keep the truck steering wheels in contact with the road to steer... kind of necessary... more so than lima beans! But I digress! I don't recall a brand on the ball socket... it's OEM, welded to the trailer tongue of course. I don't know if I've got a picture anywhere... I'll look. After the WD Torsion bars are released & removed, the safety hitch pin is removed, there's a lift handle on the top that must be lifted from the rear & drawn rearward & held while the tongue is lifted (came with a power jack installed). There is some type of part which completes the circle sphere around the hitch ball... only loosely attached to the release lever on top. We are having trouble getting the release lever to fully release... and the underneath part to move so we can disconnect. We have found a mini-bungee (1/4" D cord) which is just the right length to go around the release lever & catch on the jack base. It will only fit if the lever is fully released. BUT, I think now, that it's pulling partially in the wrong direction... back & down instead of back & up. Even then, (yesterday) we could not get the underneath latch to let go. (We are resorting to devises because there's not enough room for too many hands in there & the parts are hard to keep holding.) My thought of the morning is that I need to pull this release lever up & back... in the direction of the jack. I could clamp a ring to the jack body & bungee to that release handle. My good wife thinks we need to grease the ball more. So do I, but not what she had in mind! I sure could use a cut away drawing... SORRY for the long rant. Cropped from another pict... the only one I have & the trailer is locked in the contractor's shop.

Lima Beans aren't that bad if you put enough salt & butter on them. After the corn on the cob & lobster!! I'm glad somebody besides me knew I was joking about the lima beans... Glad you are both on the mend. ++ When one lives at the end of the Earth... gotta allow time to get to help. WE don't wait for a Rescue. We meet them at the Rte3 turn off.

Just making a point for new comers.

Frankly, the latest Generation of CTDs have benefited immensely from the experiences of all those who went before. The earliest were not intercooled, remember. This factory intake is now so good that there's really nothing to be gained by messing with it. That's a good thing. Just put a high quality paper element in there. I wonder if it'll throw a code if a K&N is put in there? Wouldn't that be funny?

Oh, Ick! Lima Beans Again!! ROTFL!

Way beyond my knowledge... but it sorks. Sorry man!

Will the 9104s slide right in or are there tweaks to be done?

Prayers headed your way.

Sorry if I was unclear. I meant a stock replacement, non-mopar branded, pleated paper element in the OEM airbox. There are lots of filter companies. Examples: Fleetguard AF27684 Wix 49946, Wix 46930

I would buy after market. Just open the box & look at the filter before purchase.

I have seen those exact units advertized. I don't run a cover on the bed & never thought of running them there. I thought about installing them on my camper but it would have been a whole lot more cost for the few runs I make with the rig. I'll be very interested in your results VS the advertising.

Even though my current truck is not in this group, there is much good thought & discussion here. My thought is to remember the engine / truck makers are not concerned with making more power. They MUST be concerned about emissions, EPA & such disgusting subjects. Some changes harm efficiency but are (supposedly) necessary to meet EPA standards. The piston design we are discussing might just be one of these changes (my speculating)... and the injector makers may have figured this out though they could have been more forthright about why they do or do not offer certain products. Again this is very useful information. Thanks to everyone who has contributed.

I can't find a listing for a 9004R bulbs... Source? Where can I find more info?

I think DAP (Diesel Auto Power) a sponser here, is introducing a harness. I have a PM from him. I will Sport when I get a chance.