flagmanruss

Yes, it's the screen #14 that I suspect of being damaged to admit critters. I've had the nuts off, under the hinge up wiper pivot covers. I have a puller ordered. Going to try again when I get it.

Theives are stealing man hole covers in the city to scrap. Impossible to know where they came from. The city is having replacements made with the city name in them. Freakin thieves.

I don't see in your signature... or did I miss it? What are you running for a lift (fuel) pump? Yes, your VP44 is toast but before you put a new IP on there, be sure you have enough fuel pressure.

What triggers the truck alarm? Could we just extend a switch to the hood? What I'm thinking, if someone tried to pop the hood, the alarm goes off. If we cleverly block the safety catch on the hood, the alarm goes off & they can't get the hood the rest of the way up to silence it. I think most thieves expect the factory systems... if there's something more, unexpected... they probably won't hang around. It could be another lock on the hood (years ago, with my grill cut for fog lights... I installed a padlock inside... hard to remove if the hood was released). It could be blocking the safety catch. It could be reworking / disabling the factory extension on the safety catch. Ideally it could be undone if the truck is in for service somewhere.

http://www.candlepowerinc.com/pdfs/9004_9007.pdf There's the possibility the previous owner used the wrong bulb or that the right bulb is incorrectly orientated if the keys are bunged up.

Without touching the glass (of course), I'd love to see the old & new bulbs side by side. Take a good look at the filament placement. My chart says a 9004 bulb.

I maintain poison is ineffective if the critters can easily get in & out. As I posted before... a friend had some machines in an outbuilding... deployed massive amounts of poison. When we moved a machine, we fount the whole base with several inches of stored bait. The mice recoginized it as food but had no need to eat it as they could get in & out freely. On my truck, I stuffed behind the hood hinges with SS pot scrubber (basically SS steel wool). The cowel brains on the truck are located there... and still drained fine, but no more mice in the truck.The Cirrus, however, the hood hinges extend into the cowel area leaving gaping holes for mice. My F*rd Escort had the same but the trough could be accessed with the hood open so easily altered with screening. Some of these ideas are mentioned in the link provided, btw. I have screened numerous air cleaners since the late 1980s. This Cirrus has just frustrated my attempts because I can't get the cowel cover up. I have ordered a tool to hopefully remove (without damaging) the wiper arms. I think it'll be an easy job once I get past this.I'll let you know!

Is it the right bulb for your application? A wrong bulb could be out of spec. Is bulb seated correctly now? Is the bulb or mount damaged?

It makes sense. Glad you were able to save the bulb.

I'll be interested in what you find when you get the bulb out. I have to go look at mine to see what is required.

I have shifted to buying a lot on-line for the convenience. I shop pretty hard, spending a lot of time comparing prices. I've long used Google... had good luck or so I thought. I recently watched an ad for the BING search engine. The claim is that while Google claims not to "sell" search results placement, they teach corperate advertizers how to get higher placement. It takes a huge investment in time to did through 10, 15 or 20 pages of search results... just repeating the same sources. Search results weighting is, of course, a secret.BING claims to not do that... Well, I just bought spare belts for my TravelScoot (expected delivery tomorrow). The spare belts arrived & the belts & slip sitting on my desk. So I tried BING. On the first page or so of results was the same belts, FROM THE SAME SELLERS through ebay, for a couple of bucks less & less for shipping too. (Since it is the delivered price that counts.) I'm changing my shopping research technique. In the future, I'll compare BING & GOOGLE...

Mike has a good point. I haven't needed to in a while but I used to run off road lights & the state inspectors would often frig them up trying to use a tool to adjust. I used the brick wall at the school yard, a yardstick & a coat or something to cover them. I measured the center of the light & backed up. The low beams should focus below the lamp center (I forget the distance). In other words, low beams need to be aimed slightly down. The aiming proceedure is still the same. Shine each beam on a wall & be sure it focuses. Then cover one at a time & adjust the other.

After the UTI from Hell... you don't want to know what happens when it spreads... a 'cath' is no longer humorous. If I'd done what I wanted to to the male nurse that shoved it in, I'd have been handcuffed to the bed with a copper at the door!

Bear with me for a second. Light from your filament, no matter how high or low tech it is... must hit the reflector & go out through the lens. If the bulb is out of spec... filament not positioned right in relation to the base where it aligns... then the light source will be positioned wrong & the light output will be aimed wrong. So I think you are on the right track. The bulb is out of spec for some reason. Either a defective bulb (just because it lights does not mean it's positioned correctly) or a improper mounting.

BHAF pleated paper surrounded by metal mesh. Prevents mice damaging filter.

Yes, I was building the rotary switch with different resistors but it hasn't made it from the bench to the truck. I was going leave the toggle down for stock, up for fooler... as it is now... but have the fooler selectable with preset values by different resistors. Some others had rheostat but used scan guage to adjust the value (I don't have scan guage).

I bought a rotary switch from Radio Shack, was going to put multiple resitors on it for MPG / IAT fooler. Got the one toggle installed, never went back, yet! I start with the grids on for easy starting (wife uses truck sometimes too)... switch off once running.

I don't like to stop... but I have MS bladder. I only drink water. I just slurp down tasty drinks. Fast food drinks come with huge straws, the quicker to slurp them down. Never understood that since many have free refills. Maybe to get you to finish up & clear the tables? I prefer & hoard pull to close water bottle tops... I used to see many with them, now there's only one brand locally... I find I can stretch my drinks while staying hydrated. I miss hauling my gooseneck horse trailer. I could stop anywhere, and duck under the g-neck & pee unseen. An older gent I used to know was an excavation contractor... did a lot of street work. No place to pee. I wonder if he cut out the pockets of his khakis? He could lean against the hood of a truck, pretend to look at a piece of paper & pee behind the front wheel. When I drove an van with my mobile shop, I frequently had to pee in a cup in the back with the door closed... dump it under the truck when no one was around.I never understood if I caused it but I ended up with a massive UTI, I was on immune suppressing drugs at the time... while on a road trip... I figure on stopping every hour or 2.

We don't leave keys in overnight but sometimes working around the yard I'll also use the shifter boot so others can move the truck.

Raptor or AirDog?

Biker Bar

Truck AWOL has me looking at upgrading my security. I just ordered tailgate hinge lock http://www.trucknvans.com/Gate-Keeper-Tailgate-Protection-p/200514.htm I'll keep you posted. My gate has some minor paint rubs from hay bales but not dents or scratches... would be a prime target.

Battery switches are easy enough but unless it's hidden or protected in some way, it'll be defeated. Many of these trucks will run without power to the lift pump... as least a little while. The mechanical pumps it just takes a big arse screw driver to jump the starter. The VP trucks run on electricity. No ECM, no run. But the mods must be hidden, as we discussed in an earlier thread, so it looks factory... not leading the crook to our cut off switch. My suggestion would be to run a harness in protective crinkle tubing to interrupt the ECM fuse. Could have a whole row of switches which have to be set right to activate. Or a stealth switch somewhere... A devise to prevent the hood from opening would help prevent bypassing. Maybe something as simple as a block on the hood safety catch, that must be detached. Hard to do in the dark under pressure. Or disconnecting the hood release on the dash & requiring it to be released elsewhere.

I'd be afraid if I caught them, I'd be be in jail. They really want that gooseneck bad to go through all this. I used to have to street park in Boston... I took the distributor rotor in with me nightly... pad locked the hood down (reach in by the fog lights... but when a punk tries to get the hood up, pressure on the lock & very hard to release with the key!) We've talked before about connecting a hidden switch to the clutch in pressure switch (no switchin the automatics but the wires still there). I suppose having the ECM fuse in your pocket would work too.

Long ago, in a previous life, my much beloved '68 RoadRunner. It carries the "Off Road" non-sealed beam H1s (then the newest)... the lows & fogs were Hellas, the highs were Carrellos. It was not just the power of the bulbs but the quality of the optics. I could light up 1 1/4 of straight flat road like daylight... the longest stretch I ever found. (Not going to mention the terminal velocity.) I didn't want to cut the grill but it blocked too much light. The fog lights hung inverted on a home made bracket between the radiator support & the sheet metal where the hood locked down. When I hammered it over rough roads, the fog lights would shake some. My truck didn't come with an air dam & I don't want to block the Escort installed radar system sensor under the bumper.