flagmanruss

The VE & P-pump are straight mechanical pumps without the electronic tuning & without the built in limits of the electronics.

I wouldn't put up with that & my XZT+ is pretty simple... that said, if they have a glitch they need to fix it. If customer's units need to come back in, they should exchange them for working units. Customers who get burned, won't be back & neither will their friends. Fool me once shame on ME!... I have been in business... I have had jobs go sour. I made it right. I kept the customers.

I have only the XZT+ & haven't needed anything...

I talked with the mechanic yesterday... going to take it in next week & diagnose the transmission & decide of a course of action.

That same property of my ex... needed fencing. Borrowed (from a neighbor) a small Ford farm tractor with a post hole digger. Stretched a rope & put a stake every X feet. Picked up my rope. Drove down the fence line (between the trees) & put the auger on each stick. I hit a few rocks but was able to move forward & back a tad. Only broke the shear pin once... just a long 1/4" steel bolt. Used PT 4x4s or garden ties as posts. I used native oak barn board for rails, nailed on with Galv twist nails (before the era of screw guns & deck screws) on the inside so leaning horse push twards the fence posts, not away, trimmed to length with a Homelite chain saw, added next section. Since it was along the road, we only left the horses out there in the day time. You should have seen me leading 4 horses down the driveway at once...

When I was on the PD... we lived way up a private drive... we'd occasionally get people who were lost. The drive was a single lane (filled) through a swamp so people who started in had no choice but to keep coming. There was barely room enough to turn my stock trailer in front of the garage... except my dog (noisy white sled dog type) had an overhead cable run that took up half of it. I installed 3 banks of flood lights on the house so I could do what ever in the dark... switches inside & outside in the garage. "Visitors" had no choice but to wait in the glare of the lights for me to hold the dog... If I didn't have a gun on me when they arrived, I stuck one, half into my back pocket, before going out. Most often the intruders claimed to be looking for a neighbor (ex-bro-in-law to my then wife) same name on mail box... similar driveway... who had a auto repair garage. Oh, yeah, then there was the "other dog"... looked like a German Shepard with long hair. Butch was a collie/shepard cross, full brother to the dog at the junkyard down the street.

I run AVG on both my computers & never had a warning on this site. I removed Defender. I'm using IE on Windows 7 machines now.

Is your 24V/VP44 junk? How about converting the 24 valve to the VE pump? Might it be an easier conversion?

I'd rather learn by watching others mistakes than repeating them myself. My buddy was using his riding mower to "mow" the leaves off the edge of his driveway & into his woods. Must have been some leaves trapped by the muffler low on the front. The leaves caught fire & his ride-on is now burned to a crisp... front tires, grill, headlights, hood motor... pretty well covers it. Well, he's all right, at least.He didn't call me to bring the marshmellows, Hershies & graham crackers...He seemed a bit shaken when he told me. I bet his fellow volunteer firefighters bust him something aweful.Russ

Every engine has blow by... It must have clearances if the pistons aren't siezed in the block. Yes, a compression test would be nice but a lot of work. One thing to consider... Many of us here are running small amounts of 2 cycle outboard type oil as a fuel additive. It's good for the VP44 which was intended for low sulphur fuel (as opposed to Ultra low sulfer available state side). I think it may help lubricate the rings... as a former boat mechanic, I have some experience with stuck pistons, rings, hung valves. The 2 cycle oil is intended to burn clean...

OK, I didn't pick this car out, inherited it from Mom with 5 years / 8000 miles on the clock. I have gotten used to this car & even with my disability, I can get in & out ok. I've run it up to 120K. I ran KBB on it & it would be worth 1700 if I go through it. We must pay property tax on vehicles here (OUCH!!) and the tax man figures it on a NADA in best condition... So NADA on a 15 year old whatever is low but a new one would be steep. (On the bright side, they don't know that the Dodge/Cummins is worth more than NADA book!) Body is better than average, a few minor scratches it came with... a bunch of tree sap that needs to be removed again. (I'm convinced the squirrels are eating the pine cones so the tree I must park under drips sap. Better the Cirus, than the Cummins.) Leather interior... no rips, just needs a vacume. (Wife keeps saying it's in terrible condition... because it's dirty, I can't clean it & no one else will help me. Oh, & it has a cassette player I never use anyway.) The only thing that doesn't work is the driver's power mirror. Tires are new (wear item) The transmission lines rusted out & were replaced with rubber (multiple failures & take backs)... but I'm hearing noise that sounds like the transmission to me. The timing belt hasn't been replaced so that package needs to be done... TB, water pump, etc. The heater core is seeping & sometimes fogs the windshield... needs replacement. Had a stone crack the windshield recently... can file an insurance claim... To do the work it needs will clearly cost more than 1700. But if I do it, can I run it another 50K? I think it depends on the transmission. If it's a rubber line failure, think I fix it. If the tranny needs to come out, time to walk away. - - - Updated - - - I wanted to add... that if I can get another 50K miles out of it... it's worth more than that nominal book value to ME. Because I'd be driving it, NOT selling it. Unless I were to buy somerthing NEW, I'd risk buying someone else's headache & have to do a lot of the same repairs to the NEW to me used car.

I'm presuming from your filter separator... just keep draining the separator & let it do it's job. How'd the water get in there? Cap on tight? Unreliable fuel source? Might have to check the fittings on the top of the tank if this persists.

Just a thought... remember you have preheater grids in the air intake... NO starter fluid unless you disable them. Clean battery terminals & cables well. If batteries charge, you're golden. If need replacing must be in pairs. Smart to disconnect batteries so parasitic drain does not discharge them... that would kill them! Alternatively there's a fuse to pull which prevents this. Watch that the brakes haven't stuck & dragging... mine did parked outside... I'd drive it... check fluids for level & contamination. Best thing is to bring it up to temperature & let the heat displace any moisture.

Got cable services back!!Feel bad for those who took a direct hit.Russ

16-17 is probably what I'm getting with 4.10 gears. Wish it was more but at least you're not in the dumper.

Are you measuring fuel in US gallons? How are you getting your mileage? My truck is per signature & has 4.10 gears. I rarely get 18 running light under idea conditions & working at mpg.

Rhode Island was on the windy side... but many miles from the eye. the high winds kept the water in between high tides & quite a storm surge. We weathered the storm... seems like we're getting way too good at this (after last year). Our home lost a few roof shingles but no water got in. It's high & normally dry. We lost power Sunday @ 5:30... we immediately moved perishables to ice coolers. Once it was safe to go outside, we started the propane fridge/freezer in the camper... has a propane stove as well.We drove down to check the cottage. I was scheduled to close on the sale YESTERDAY... Naturally the buyers put it off. Many detours & roads blocked with down trees, broken poles & combinations of the 2. Normally a 40 miinutes drive from my home. We were very lucky. No damage. The trees stayed up. No water got in. The power is still off there. We drove to observe the Pvt Beach The seaweed line (marking the storm high water) was still 3 feet below the retaining wall. The ground level is not much higher than that. Reports are the record 1938 Hurricane flooded the area but the was only hay fields then so the extent is uncertain.We got the power back at home yesterday about 5. Cable, phonem internet still out. I'm on my laptop at McDonalds... 2 towns North.We can only get a rerun TV station with the converter box in our country location... News is a battery radio... So I'll be online only during my trips out... Russell

My OEM wheels are losing the plating around the center cap & I'm thinking of new rims when I finally deep 6 the Michilins that came on it. I'm stock height wise & with my legs, getting in is not a sure thing even with the step I added. BUT, I'm wondering if I could get away with 17's which are only 1/2" higher than my 16's in the same size... without lifts or other changes. Reason I'm thinking this is the 4.10 gears which for better or worse, I'm running... but a bigger circumfrance would cut into the final ratio a bit. Thoughts?

Rhode Island is latest forecast to get 75 mph winds + gusts, they've lowered the rain prediction. The state is still fretting the storm surge... Narragansett Bay acts as a funnel & as the water is driven in... it gets higher... which is why, after 1938 a hurricane barrier was built. Times like these I don't miss my family ownership of a marina! In the face of one approaching hurricane we hauled boats out for 3 days, dawn to dusk... when we stopped we had 75 boats on shore & probably an equal number that left on trailers. The interesting thing was the slips we emptied quickly filled with boats from more exposed anchorages... They arrived after dark, owners unknown. I have a sales contract for my small walk-to-the-beach cottage... my own home at that time. The open ocean is about a mile due South. The home inspector found some repairs (of course) & I've gotten them all repaired. We WERE to have the CLOSING tomorrow but the buyers postponed a week on some pretext... That was good guess work on their part! LOL!! Assuming the big arse maple in the front yard doesn't come down... If it comes down, it'll hit something... The street & utilities, the electric service (mine & neighbors), neighbor's house, my cottage. Hopefully it will be someone else's problem in 7 days. The flooding lines are uncertain as there were only hay fields there in the record Hurricane of 1938... but my estimation is that the site was under water. My residence is well inland... I expect power outages but the camper is a back up.Russ

I wonder if it's worth the work to assemble the parts truck... might do as well or better parting it out. Certainly in terms of man hours!

I haven't put my winter front pieces in yet. I put my stock air box back for the winter... but I'm not connecting the snorkle thingy. I'm going to tape over the dumb fender hole so the air box will pull warm underhood air all winter. I have not yet but will mouse screen the airbox which will be doable without the snorkle. I like the expander metal aluminum gutter guard (maleable) and just a few SS self tapping screws.

I don't tow in the off season. I'll run the winter fronts until May. I've been running them 3 years anyway, store flat under the back seat. It still takes a while to warm up & my temp guages stays right at half scale like always. I think the warmer intake air makes the grids run less & gets the truck into lean burn warmed up mode (more economical). Since I'm stock, the overhead is very accurate & immediately shows the differance in mpgs. Before this, I was in the stupid "throw a cardboard in front of the radiator" mindset... but when I realized that it was blocking much more than just the radiator (think trans cooler, intercooler). Last year, I replaced the SS hardware with hex head so I could use a socket on my screw gun & fender washers & nynuts. More on this thread: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3147-Winter-Front?highlight=cold+front

I am 61 with Progressive MS. One can not have a 'tin teepee' in a reenactment camp. Camping in the parting lot and day tripping into camp, just is not the same, one misses a lot of camp life.

This is complicated because you have a dually. I wonder if a parts place or salvage yard could cross the numbers of various components.

I'm used to primitive camping... not so sure about this RV-ing thing. A gas stove / fridge seem pretty high tech to me. Just because something is microwaveable does not mean it's a requirement!