flagmanruss

There is a cross over list & several similar sizes will work fine. I searched ebay with all the different brands & numbers. A Fram popped up, made for Fram by Donaldson according to the slip packed with it.BHAF part numbers & cross overFleetguard AH19037NAPA 2790WIX 42790 H=11.88” D=10.5”Donaldson B105006Baldwin PA2820Hastings AF1012Afe 20-40044Carquest 87790John Deere PMAH19037Big A 93790Caterpiller 3I0005Fleetrite AHR819037Luber-Finer LAF2531Fram CA6818 (Made for Fram By Donaldson)UNI 908

Yes the Northern Storm Low coming across to merge with the Southern Low started in Texas & coming up the coast. It's was snowing this morning at fiorst light but just light. As they merge into the Nor'Eastern off the coast the Left side of the Counter Clockwise rotation is going to swing from Cape Cod Bay back over the coast. Down around Boston & Providence. I am on the CT / RI line, in a higher rural area known for snow. Worse is supposed to be after dark tonight on into Saturday.

OK, makes sense now. A turbo Burp!

I'm confused. Where do you think the ring was hiding after the damage? It could not have been in the BHAF as it is separated from the turbo by the hose. It might have been elsewhere in the system but it had to be beyond the intake hose or it would not have damaged the turbo. Or might there have been MORE unknown debris that went through.

Well, If you have to go, I guess going off in Dreamland might not be too bad. Uncasville, CT. I'm about 30 miles from there. Not far from me. If they are there Friday afternoon... they're going to be there a while. Forecast is 2-3 FEET of snow, maybe more. Drifting possibly twice that. My ATV won't do this kind of snow. The last one was a couple of years ago, nephew came over & ran the backhoe. I think I have picts of that storm. ATV didn't have a prayer... JD did good... Let's hope it's not that much... doesn't seem probable however.

Backhoe hasn't been run in a while... going to try to start it... ATV isn't going to plow what they are forecasting.

The tractor was in the heifer runout shed, on fire when called in from a driver on the other road. My cousin noticed the fire before the fire trucks arrived, pulled it out of the shed with a pickup truck & chain. He put the fire out as the firetrucks arrived. That motor's crisp. The insurance has totalled it. Almost anything is repairable BUT at what price? My grandfather bought this farm in 1899, my uncle is the current owner. (Interesting coincidence, the shed was built when the 'old barn' was struck by lightening when I was a kid. They got the animals out but all the equipment on the other side was lost when the barn burned to the ground.) I don't know how to do that FB stuff.

JD245 Not sure what they'll do. It was insured. 3 estimates total all total it. Pictures on FB. Ugh! Caused by Block heater.

If something chaffed through once, I'd slip a piece of split loom over the + lead right over the repair.

AIT (or IAT) sensor is a son of a female dog to get to... but a bad connection or dirty sensor could cause this. Several of us use resistors to override the AIT sensor. Mike posted the following table. 143* is normal for a warmed up engine. Temperature Resistance 13°F 56K ohms 26°F 39K ohms 87ºF 7.4K ohms 91°F 6.8K ohms 100°F 5.6k ohms 107°F 4.7K ohms 112°F 4.3K ohms 119ºF 3.6K ohms 123ºF 3.3K ohms 127ºF 3.0K ohms 132ºF 2.7k ohms 143°F 2.2k ohms <<<< 148°F 2.0k ohms 163°F 1.5k ohms 173°F 1.2k ohms 184°F 1.0k ohms http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/6870-IAT-and-MAP-sensor/page2?highlight=iat+fooler

I think I recall seeing this before... still an interesting scene.

My 01, fuses in the end of the dash driver's side, behind a little plastic cover.

I'm not changing a thing... XZT+. I run the timing (econo) tune most of the time. The +65 when necessary towing in hilly country. I have the tunes saved so long as the box doesn't take a dump. My theory is that most troubles start when downloading / installing different. As long as I stick with what I've got, hope to run a long time.

You want to replace the banjoes with their tiny holes with full flow fittings like the JIC fittings that Vulcan offers. No point in doing half the job.

I was going to guess boost leak but mr mindless beat me to it! First place to look is the boots... probably find one has blown or slipped.

I try to keep a small compressor in the trunk... for those "Oh Crap" moments. The better of them the plasitc locking lever broke... I hate to throw the unit away for a dumb coupler. It's a small hose, undoubtably some metric size. I was thinking of a hose barb to pipe, then a coupler. Then a lock on air chuck... Seems complicated. Any ideas?

I did a cab-off years ago on my 79 Chevy C30. I wished I'd had POR15 to use on the frame while I had it stripped. Yes, need warm weather or a heated shop. I did a test on a trailer frame & it was way too cold. But I'd not miss the opportunity while the body was off. All my doors are rusted out on my signature truck... when I put the new doors on the C30, I poured epoxie into the bottom of the doors. I would sure do SOMETHING to keep the Dodge rot out of your doors if you have the opportunity.

If I had the truck where I could use a plug in maintainer, rather than solar, I would do it. In fact, I have an (unapproved) flood light on my telephone pole with underground feeder to the house. Since I no longer use the flood (no longer have horses) I've thought of cutting off the lead & putting an outdoor box on it. It's not real close to the truck but it'll reach with a cord & it's on the correct side of the driveway.

I like it! Stealing it also...

Deep in that thread, CF members were setting up downloadable tunes that were no longer available from Quadzilla.

I really like my XZT+... a shame there's no support. I can understand the problem as 24Valve VP44 trucks are not being built... need to keep up with products for new trucks.

The parasitic draws are all on one fuse, I believe. I think Mike posted that it had a easy pull handle on it. The truck will even run without it... I think you lose the clock & radio resets.

In the past, I have sworn by Sears Diehard batteries... I had to recharge them with a charger recently & I'm betting they've failed again. They always seem to fail just short of the warentee period. You go back thinking you'll get some coverage... and you do... $3-5 worth. I'm thinking it's time for a change of brand. I even had a little dash-top solar maintainer on it.I'd had good luck with the Everstart batteries in other vehicles.

As I'm reading this, we're talking about the windshield wipers, not heater/defroster. So the Original Post as I read it... freed the wipers. waited 5 minutes, tried wipers. Wipers had refroze to the glass, presumeably stalled. Smoke from the dash. If the motor stalled, it could overload the circuit... including the dash control or the intermittant wiper box. But the fuse should blow first if it's correct amp. It may be in the main panel under the hood. Or did I read this wrong?

I think we've all made mistakes... some more costly than others... but if we admit out screw ups perhaps others can learn from our mistakes. At least it's a way to salvage some benifit from it. At 60+ years, I've had a lifetime of bonehead moves to learn from!