flagmanruss

I left mine in with it's water sensor but replaced the fittings with 1/2", got rid of the restrictive banjoes. I don't think there's a right or wrong. It kind of defeats the purpose to leave the restrive fittings in the lines. I also installed a tapped elbow at the VP44 for the fuel pressure sensor.

The LTXs in my sig ARE the OEM tires, apparently a factory upgrade. Mike posted the 245/85 are same diameter, narrower footprint less rolling resistance. I'm planning winter tires in this size... less pushing snow in front of the tires.

Sorry Mike, I disagree! Better to keep the mice outta there. It really stinks with dead mice in there, unhealthy breathing mouse rot & if they jam the blower motor, you can fry it... At least my neighbor did on a new Saturn. Warentee does not cover rodent damage, please pay the cashier! He & I then screened his air intake. Also, leaves & mouse fluff can clog the heater core air flow & is a beach to remove. The same stuff can block the resistor... protrudes into the ductwork where the airflow cools it. If covered by mouse fluff, resistor runs hot & fails. So short term take out the 3 screws & clean the bird cage. Long term, sceeen or block with the SS steel wool the cowel drains behind the hood hinges. Problem permanantly solved. I used the SS pot scrubber my first year with this truck... brand new... 12 years later, no mice in the cab, despite them trashing my under hood insulation.

YEAH!!

DOT seems to prohibit direct gravity feed to carberator or FI... not sure it's prohibited to fuel pump, below the level of the IP. Now, that said... is your draw straw & fuel returns both either in or out of the basket on the fuel gauge. This can cause the dredded part tank empty syndrome because the basket itself can not flow as high as the aftermarket pumps allowing the fuel in the basket to be sucked down. Also, if the measurment for the draw straw was done with the tank sitting on the floor, a false measure can happen as the tank bottom flexes up. Ae there any other air leaks like defective lines? I see a lot of complaints with the quick connect fittings between the DS & lines.

If it's just a cheap vacume line, fix it. It's gotta be way easier & cheaper than a cable kit... To install a cable kit, the cable must be threaded into the cab & the actuator assembly on the axle taken off & replaced with the cable unit.

When I bought my 5th wheel Scamper camper... it had belonged to my ex-inlaws (who were skilled mechanics), before the current seller who told me "He'd never used it" in the year he'd owned it. He neglected to tell me he'd put water in it & allowed it to freeze. The trailer was plumbed with 1/2" copper & flare fittings. All the lines were burst. I replaced them with Quest lines & fittings which I'd had great success with in the boatyard service. I lived in the trailer the year I got divorced. The only plumbing issue was when my heat could not keep up in the winter & the bathroom line froze... pushed the Quest fittings apart. After I dried the place out, I screwed the fttings back together. After I got married, we used the camper seasonally for 10 more years.

I had my truck towed to the dealership & was charged for pulling the codes. The Service Manager told me it was a failed fuel pump & a $1200 repair for the in tank pump, which I refused. The dealership was unwilling to install an aftermarket lift pump. I paid the diagnotic charge & the Service Manager told me there were no codes. (Service Manager lied.) I had the truck moved to a Diesel shop who read the codes (gave me the list), found a wiring fault & started the truck on the OEM lift pump. I decided to go ahead & install the draw straw, big line, AD150.

The vacume activated center axle disconnect (CAD) is troublesome & was omitted I think after 2002 (my 01.5 has it). They can get stuck or the diaphram rupture. Some people have put cable activitators in there. The valve on the transfer case can fail too.

Sounds good to me. Get it running and see how it feels.

Access the blower from underneath the dash in the passenger's foot well. Motor sticks down... only 3 screws. Be sure the resistor block which sticks up into the air flow isn't clogged too, wired to blower. I'm betting on mice. The cowel drains are behind the hood hinges. Stuff SS steel wool (pot scrubber) up from underneath. Any water will still drain through but critters can't get access. It's almost time for mice to be having babies.

Google brings up a lot of links. Is there a key inside your tailgate handle? If so I think we've narrowed the possibilities. Honestly, I'd rather not advertize my anti-theft devises... rather the bad guys get surprised.

Vulcan has fittings much more open than banjo bolts. With nice radious. I kept the on-block filter & used oversized fittings & big line kit. Include a taped elbow on the IP inlet.

My automatic truck is in my signature. It tows much better with the XZT. I'm happy until I get to the highway... I don't care for the screaming engine at highway speeds... I end up kicking in OD when I can (I know not recommended) mostly flat or down grade. I didn't need the 4.10s & it costs me at the fuel pump. Bigger rubber would cut the effective ratio but with my legs as they are, I can barely get in now if I plan just right.

These are SS but obiviously thin & will bend if over stressed. 2 were already bent. I got 16 so can install down both sides every foot. I have 2 of cast bronze screwed down on top of the bed behind the cab. The cast brz have not bent in 10 years & I don't believe they will but I couldn't find the in brz at the Marine Consignment. (Pd less than $1 ea/used.) The bed interior & fender come together & welded in this area... the strap eyes will bend before the fender.

I've researched the available options & other ideas I've had. I decided to use some SS strap eye anchors. I came up with a dozen from a marine consignment source. They take #10 fasteners & will fit on the inside edge of the bed between stake pockets. I think these will be a useful addition for light loads.

I still have the OEM Michelin LTX rubber on the Dodge & wearing well but I don't see them as other than a highway tire. The tread is leagal but getting down now... but I've had sidewall checking cracks for the last couple of years. I've had Cooper Discoverer on a Diesel Ranger quite a few years ago... when the tranny failed & could not be repaired, I pulled the new tires off and mounted them of Sheila's Caravan where they wore like iron. I'd buy Coopers again in a heart beat.

The sign on the road said all commercial vehicles >>> to scale. I have commercial plates & had my personal horse trailer in tow. The DOT cops told me to "Beat It!" OK, color me gone.

I wonder if adding TCW3 2 cycle oil (like so many of us do for the VP44 used on 24V Cummins) to the first diesel used to restart might lubricate the injectors & such quickly to minimize galling & seal damage. In any rate, it's worth trying a flush before signing on for expensive overhaul. I saw a guy stopped at a highway rest area on NY Thruway... had just done this.

Not familiar with Ford per say but this happens pretty often. There was a post here on a Cummins & they drained the tank, changed filters, purged the system & restarted. It's not good for them but a new engine? I don't think so.

OK, now we are clear. My Wait-To-Start comes on almost immediately. A couple of seconds?

Sure can't prove it by me. The C30 I bought was a Canadian truck & what a rust bucket it was underneath.

I'm unclear as to the Original Question? The Wait to start reads the Engine Temperature. I think it is mainly the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) in the manifold which is water jacketed. So whether the WTS light comes on at all or how long, depends on the IAT. During the WTS cycle the intake grid heaters run, drawing power from the batteries, heating the air in the intake. (This is why starting fluid must never be used without disabling the grid heaters... an explosion will result!) If the block heater is plugged in, the element in the block coolant is warmed & thus the whole engine, raising the IAT reading, shortening the WTS cycle.Now if there is a delay in the Wait To Start engaging than the ECM is failing. So now we've covered both possible ways the question might have been intended.

With my truck, there was a bad connecton on the passenger's side a few inches from the battery (ground side). Power comes off the driver's battery. Once the connecter tested good, the OEM fuel pump ran. I had the mechanic go ahead with the AD install as I already had the parts.

My hidden key requires knowledge & a screwdriver to get to as it's taped to the back of a license plate then the bolt run through the enlarged hole... a very long bolts through those square gripping things. Many years ago, I worked at a camp IN NH's Lake Winnipesaukee. The vehicles had to left at the landing. Days off you could borrow a canoe or catch the camp boat's 2X daily run. On of the couselors had a hot Mustang... & discovered it wrecked. He called the Police who had a warrant out for him for Felony Hit & Run with injuries. It seems the neighborhood kids had been taking it joy riding... repeatedly using his hidden key. He said he'd been suspicious about losing gas! Fortunately he had a good alibi. I had gone ashore once and found all my tires flat... apparently the kids were PO'd I had not left them a key! I was GLAD I had not. Although the other couselor was cleared, his insurance didn't cover everything. Years ago, a mechanic joked that he knew where everybody's hidden key was... except mine. Easy to spot most up on a lift! One could not see mine without removing the plate & the electrical tape.