flagmanruss

Hate these low profile lights... hard to spot from a distance. State Police are running a variety of unmarked cars including a black Dodge Charger with all sorts of pretty lights in the windows. Have not got me... yet...

I'm kind of off the wall with this trailer... I didn't need it registered so I hadn't. When I tried, I found the title is screwed up. Too much to go into in a public forum. I have a photo copy of the face of a Calif Salvage title. The Montana Title was not completed. Registered to the previous owners Montana LLC. So I need to approach the Calif seller, if I can find him... try to get a Duplicate for the lost Salvage title.I'd had heartburn last 3 nights just thinking about it.

Actually, I've been out on the ocean with a compass & thankfully a working depth finder... but Pilgrims had sounding chains to tell water depth as well. I had to make my way back to the mainland from a 20 miles offshore island. I didn't want to miss the point of the Bay so I deliberately gave some West angle. Ran in until I reached my desired depth of 30 feet. If I got shallow, I headed out... too deep, I headed in. Because I knew the reinforced jetties that protected the harbor entrance were 30 feet depth. I made the entrance in the fog... dead center. We swung out to the arm of the breakwater and anchored for some diving. Yes, the Pilgrims wanted to go to Virginia, ended up in Cape Cod. Make crossing, make landfall, follow coast.

I had 2 marker sticks... one at back of bucket, one at front, both on near side. The 2 were together at back of bucket. I need to add streamers (survey tape) to them. Fortunately, there doesn't appear to be any visible damage, though the gas overflow from the cap recess (other side of car) acted funky after this. But it was jolted. I have a problem with objects that are not in my mirrors backing up. I cracked both tail lights on the truck that way (different times). My X-ray vision just doesn't work like it used to.

I should know better. I generally don't turn around out by the barn/camper. It's just tight spaces & not worth the effort... but we found a new spot for the camper. I was using the Cirrus to take things in & out from the house. So I managed to bump the bumper turning around. I had marker poles on the backhoe but the lady that does my mowing (wife) had moved them. Yes, I bumped the flat side of the bucket in my blind spot. Really bummed me out. I was going quite slow naturally & it was a flat surface though it was where the bumper curved. Just what I need this HUGE construction yellow boo-boo to show the world. (Actually it wasn't that big & no one even mentioned it to me.) I learned long ago... if I can just remember... that damages always look worse when they are highlighted with paint or dirt. I went out with a few cleaning patches & solvents. Tried lacquer thinner first. All the paint transfer disappeared. Wipe with a paper towel & wash with soap & water. Done. Very lucky this time. Now I have had cases where there were scratches...in paint, fiberglass or Gel coat... but always looked better after cleaning...

The tanks are exposed on my old 01 Tahoe. The cross tank bars under he fresh water tanks have been reinforced & the reinforcing angle stock is bent down also. To winterize, I jack the center of the plastic tank until it's pretty flat... a thick board on the top of the jack to spread the force... then insert scrap boards between the support braces & the tank to keep it up. Then open the drains.When we bought the trailer, the seller complained about how much Camco, non-toxic, it took to winterize... He didn't realize the amount of trapped water below the drain ____ in the fresh water tanks. I have a shop who's supposed to install stronger braces but it keeps getting put off...

When I was on the PD... we had low bid practice ammo. Freakin soft crap, leaded badly. I learned to wipe down my gun, with BreakFree CLP, inside & out before firing. Yes, inside the barrel, chambers, the frame cutout of a revolver. When the Dept Armorer saw me wipe most of the lead & residue off he started buying spray bottles & gallon size for Dept use. When someone didn't they had very long cleaning sessions.Not helpful in a defensive situation but a great practice tip. I forget where I originally read about it.

If'n I was going into bear country... sidearm?? Not sure. Long gun, certainly my Marlin 1895 in 45/70 cal... and hand loads... taken from a magazine article long ago. Only safe in the Marlin & Ruger Single shots.

When I first started riding horses in the woods with my (now) ex... she didn't know where we were (her area). I got a bit nervious. She just called out to her dog with us. (I don't know how that dog didn't get stepped on, he was practically under the horse's feet.) Butch, Let's go home! We followed the dog & he took us right home. Not necessarily by the route we arrived on...

Gasket??? ::ROTFL:: These cheap ___ lights don't have any gasket & not do the seem to have sealant behind them. The top side of them is wadded with electrical dum-dum. I guess they water that gets in is supposed to run back out the unsealed bottom. My plan is to get a good sealant behind the new lights. Maybe the lens should have sealant like clear silicone applied inside the edge which can be removed later if necessary?

I have a question for all you trailer & RV guys. How does the water get into the marker lights? Between the lens & body or through the rear of the body? I don't want to short out my new LED lights.

Although the DDRP can be mounted in the OEM location, they can also be relocated back nearer the tank as can the Carter OEM lift pump... I've had steel transmission & brake lines rust through on both my car & truck...

Is your pump remote mounted on the frame rail or on the engine location? Where is your separator? It could even be in the pump if it's before the filter. Or as has been said, the top of the tank module. Steel lines? Rubbing somewhere or rusted? But it must be before the filter.

With my OD automatic, 4.10s are fine for grocery hauling & running light on the highway... with the stock tires. It's just towing where it's to noisy. If you don't tow at highway speeds with your winter tires, I doubt you'll even notice.

I understand that the Dodge does not use a vented cap but reportedly has a tiny vent in the module. What results did you have when you loosened the cap. I'd try running it with cap loose (if you haven't, I don't see the report) & see the results.

I can't stand the screaming motor with OEM rubber listed in my signature. I know it's not recommended but I end up towing with the OD in. If I have trouble on hills, I have to quickly kick the OD out & cut road speed to 50-55 to boost the RPM. I can't afford to regear the truck but listening to the salesman (who said 4.10s was the gear to get, when he would have told me anything just to sell the truck on his lot) was a mistake. I have to downshift less with the XZT+. I don't have big rubber. I'll let those who have first hand experience answer your specific questions.

A draw straw (enlarged pickup tube) may not be strictly necessary but any working lift pump will suck through hit as well as the OEM pickup. There are some problems with later After market draw straw quick connects tend to get loose. Old style hydraulic fittings do not. A plugged tank vent is or a failed fuel line or fitting is where I would start. You should not get air into the system if acting correctly. Check simple stuff first. A failing lift pump... a bad filter housing leaking air?

I ordered a complete set of LED oval lights of FleaBay... I pulled the cover on front side marker (low on side), just to see the hole spacing. The cover turned out to be a swimming pool! With all the heavy rains, water above the bulb... and the idiots didn't use the light's factory mounting holes. The light assembly is bedded in dum-dum (the previous owner was also dum-dum). My dear wife will freak (because my legs are bad) if I climb up on a ladder to disassemble the front (top) marker, but that's what I think is needed to determine if the water is running down the wire from above or running off the roof & down the side & into the light. I know I can climb a good ladder (once) if I wear shoes with no tread to catch. (Rather a daily limit, so given enough days, I can do all the lights eventually.) But I'll start with the low mounted side ones. The front compartments have a water leak problem... I'm thinking of bedding the lights & fixtures in Marine 'Life Caulk'. I've had LifeCaulk last 20 years & still be tough on my cottage near the beach... Intended for use underwater.

Unless you are going to install really big tires, you DON'T want 4:10s or such. I just can not equal the mpgs of the stock ratio. Really, with OEM tire sizes, the factory is pretty spot on with efficient ratios. Guys with stock ratios tow as much (or more) than me, quieter & easier. It's very though because we're buying a tow vehicle but can only test it empty or bumper tow.

I don't know about the odo... but my speedometer is dead nuts on... closer than I can measure, based on the GPS. And this is with the OEM rubber that I still have on there. Typically speedometers read slightly fast so purchasers don't rack up speeding tickets. I was always annoyed when convoying with wife, that she was always dogging it... but HER Hundai speedometer read slow.

Yes, I thought of such drawers but don't have the depth from the side. Thanks for the link... it was a good read. I actually have an old van locking tool bin but I don't think it will fit. I'm going to measure. I only have one left. It is worth further investigating... I'd need to find another.I've stumbled on Weatherguard bed top toolboxes which could be mounted under the rear sides. Further research to be done.

way back when... ATF USED to have real Whale Oil. The automakers all cried when the Feds banned it around 1974, because there was no equal (at the time) for lubricating auto transmissions. It used to be truckers used the OLD ATF for some off label uses... like additives. But it's now relegated to history. Still the uninformed cling to the folklore.

I hadn't looked a BlueChip Diesel for some time... but their site was a wealth of knowledge. I just noticed that BCD is just West of Springfield, Mass. Within travel distance for me... In this section: http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/injectionpumpfailures.html Chip discusses VP44 failures... in non-upgraded VP44s (1998-2000)... with a galling problem: "What actually happens when the rotor seizes, and this is from a Bosch Factory Rep, the slot in the rotor interferes with the distributor because of an inferior deburring process. In layman’s terms “deburring” is eliminating sharp edges."... "I should note here that all rotary pumps have this potential problem, to varying degrees, so this is nothing new to the injection pump world." Now the improved post 2000 VP44s may have improved parts & coatings... BUT Chip says ALL rotary IPs have this potential issue. To me it makes sense, for the modest cost involved, to run a lubricant in the fuel to REDUCE galling & extend the life of the VP44 IP. I don't care what additive you choose to run in your VP44. But consider that TCW3 (2 cycle oil) is engineered to not only lubricate but also burn and burn clean. I think we'd be hard pressed to find a better lubricating additive. TCW3 standards have been in place since I was in the boat business... It is still active though last updated in 1993. Chip also mentions the upgraded (post 2000) VP44s feature larger heat sinks on the computer board... which he describes as the 100% source of failures in the 2% of his pumps returned.

I'm wanting to construct bins... under the trailer. The frame is I beams... I figure to put shelf on them which comes out to the edge of the body, with drop down doors. I'm not finding anything ready made. My rig is tongue heavy. I figure that to be a good place for items like wheel chocks, planks to level, wrenches & heavy tools (my 30T China jack). I think there's 6-8 feet of length there. I have to see if my welder is available.

I wish there was a hack or retro fit for the heat switch... I'm not going to be replacing the dash control just for that.