Haggar

lol,I agree the best hole is the furthest!!! I finally found some good cups to fit the bigger one without readjusting the tabs. My coffee cup fits, so that is the most important!!I didn't realize the 6spd console was different. cool!!!Hag

I agree with the guys, Don't install a roof rack. (the factory ones on the suburbans work great and don't leak, but I have heard the guys that installed them off of other trucks and NEVER eliminating all the leaks....)What I am thinking of doing, to carry my canoes is to build a "headache rack". (you can also buy these) This will fit in the front "stake holes". If the angle looks wrong (catches air etc), will build a rear rack to bring the canoe up. (for both front and rear, search for "ladder racks".)GL HTHHag

Nice work!!!!That is a nice 5 wheel trailer!!!! Post a couple pictures of the your new cup holders when you get them in. I don't mind the ones on the shifter, (never spill stuff unless you miss the set down) but they are kinda a reach when you are towing heavy. I hate taking my eyes off of everything that long.Hag

Fire,The gauge is showing you correctly.for R134a, 32psi is 36.8f and 36psi is 41f. You should be fine, in fact you are just slightly below spec. If your evaporator is not freezing up, enjoy the meat locker! (i use a chart, much easier than the small lines on the scale. the gauge for temp is a good reference, but to be accurate:) a table is much better.)The low pressure switch OPENS (drops power from the clutch) at pressures below 22-24 psi. The low pressure switch CLOSES (enables power to the clutch) at pressures above 37-43psi. Notice the delays. you can run all day at pressures BELOW 37 psi, unless you happen to drop all the way to 22-24 range.Mike thanks for the cycle frequency. My truck, with exactly the correct amount of refrigerant (weighed in) would cycle with about a 30 second cycle time. I added (and have right now) almost 2x the amount of refrigerant by weight, but did not prevent the cycling. EVERYTHING else seemed to be in specification, but it seemed to cycle too often. if 3 cycles per minute is acceptable, my system is fine. Hag

Lightnin,my 5 is a reverse grinder too. I am able to go in second then to R, but that won't help you, as 2nd is balking you.Have you tried a double clutch with a blip of the throttle while the clutch is released in neutral? this should change the speed of the counter shaft. might be worth a try. (course it may go the wrong way, from a balk to a grind)I hope the programming will fix your jerking problem. My clutch is really an on/off hard to slip. I can let it out and the ECM (or PCM) idle control keeps it rolling. in the neighborhood I can easily get to 4th never applying fuel, just idle. (its awesome on my steep driveway. like autodrive!) Hag

Elknih, It would be better to have the pyrometer BEFORE the turbo. It is not from an accuracy standpoint but from a relative standpoint. (see lower definition) You (and me and mike and everyone else) is concerned about the temperature of the exhaust entering/affecting the turbo. Therefore it is much wiser to actually measure the exhaust at this area. Theoretically you could infer actual temperatures from a downstream pyrometer, but is it worth it? Your data will also be comparable to other peoples data. (steps on soap box) The term Accuracy has to do with the pyrometer's ability to tell you what temperature it is seeing. The closer the pyrometer is to telling you the real temperature (of the exhaust in this case), the more accurate it is. This is totally a function of the pyrometer (and the gauge manufacturers ability to read the millivolt signal and display it), NOT its location in the exhaust stream. You could put the pyrometer in the exhaust tip. It's accuracy is not effected (assuming that the cool temperature is not out of the target accuracy window of the gauge system). It will tell us with utmost accuracy totally irrelevant information!! It comes down to, the closer that you are to measuring the data that you really want, the better off you are. No guessing, no fudge factors etc. (steps off soap box, ready to catch cabbages:hyper:) Hag

Or plugged orifice.You need to see if it is bouncing off the high side switch or low side switch. I am betting it is the low side. The system is designed to bounce off the low side switch. The evaporator should be really cold, as the correlation temperature for 26 psi to 35 psi (I THINK that is the trip/reset pressures of the low side) is 30f to 41f. Evaporator should be chilly.My truck seems to cycle more than other trucks, which made me think of restriction. But my high side doesn't go too high like a restriction should cause. just low side droop.what is the cycle time for on/off and what settings are you using in the cab?Hag

Mike glad you found it!!!CSM,We HAVE to find out about those tools.... I am surprised no one has replicated them (or they are not available in the aftermarket. OR someone is holding out on us.)Being able to run the VP off of a laptop would be awesome, you could really take truck/ecm type problems out of the equation. If we could at least set up an overlay to see the communications from the ECM. I guess we just have not been lucky enough to have a computer engineer decide he wants to see the communications on the Cummins like they have on the GM stuff.Hag

Dripley,I am pretty sure the 59.99 one is the one you are looking for. (I had to buy more than that, as my drive couplers were sheared.) (that has the pump/front cover seal, the adapter seal, and the lip seal, and the front half to rear half seal. If you have the pressing tools, he will sell you just the seals cheaper.)Don't hesitate to give the guy a call. SUPER nice fellow. (sorry I can't remember his name....) You will feel much better that you are getting what you need. Hag

My boss and I have contemplated that (headlight fogging, vs marker light clarity). Our best estimate is that our NHTSA specifies a certain plastic and a certain coating for the head light itself. While they don't specify the same materials for the other marker lights. I can not prove this, but we are in the chemical industry, specifically plastic, and there is no other logical reason except a rule for one reason that overrides the making of "good" headlight bezels. There is definitely a coating on the headlights, as that is what we are taking off in the polishing process. This is why they "seem" to oxidize more quickly after you have polished them. The coating protected the poorer plastic. After you polish them you should keep them waxed. When you polish them, you have to do it just like steel or aluminum, you have to sand it down until there are no pits.Hag

It depends on what tools you have on hand, and what you need to replace. MOST times it is just replacing the lip seal around the drive coupling. It is pretty straight forward if you have ever replaced a press in place seal before. What can get tricky sometimes is a "tool" that will push on the correct part of the seal or the adapter so you do not damage the new seal as you install it. If you have a harbor freight "seal installer set" you probably have a pusher that will work. If you have a scad of different sockets, you might have exactly the size you need. If you have a local machine shop, they have tubing drops etc that may work out to the right size. (sometimes pipe works nice too.) I would say it comes down to do you have enough (for lack of a better term) "junk" laying around to press the seal and seal retainer in, or do you have time to wait until the next day to find just the right round piece to push it in place? If you want to do it and be done quickly and don't have a lot of different diameter round things to press with hanging out in the shop with you, let him provide the pushers. If you want to save money, I think he will tell you what sizes are needed, so you can run around and find them whilst the other parts are coming in. HTH Hag

No sweat dobie!! Glad to help.I think the price is worth the hassle for me. I hope to get pictures up as I do it. There are plenty available so no need to go out on a limb.Hag

Rogan,It looks like your tone ring is NOT part of the hub bearing. It is separate. On the later trucks like mine, the tone ring is physically INSIDE the bearing assembly.So this may be why you are having trouble finding a PN that has an ABS designation.Ohh and just a side note guys. Our trucks were available in three levels of ABS.1 No abs. There was no ABS at all.2 2 "wheel" or RW ABS. This abs only applied to the rear axle. While it was considered a " 2 wheel" it actually only looked at the rear pinion/ring gear. Basically this helped in rain/low traction situation with an empty bed, as a the weight transfer to the front would allow the rear to lock up This system would reduce that propensity.3 4 wheel ABS. again a misnomer while the fronts are looked at individually, the rear are handled as a pair. (this is really a 3-channel abs.) Insurance and most people consider it 4WABS (4 wheel anti lock brakes)HTH Hag

Keep looking. Great ones are not inexpensive.I am looking at doing the "sport headlight" conversion. Think I will get them off of fleabya. By modifying to the sport, you can have a greater amount of wattage heading forward on high beam. Look on rock auto. go under body exterior. there are choices from 48 bucks to 100. (the most expensive are going to be the best. Probably CAPA certified etc.)Rock auto prices are running close to my autobody wholesaler prices. (you probably won't find much less expensive than that.)HTHHag

You can get them from cummins under pn 4089742. (lol Mike beat me to it!) I would call and talk to these guys (you can get just about any part you need from them too!): Gould gear and electric www.fixinrams.com/ Look around their site some. good pictures. GL HTH Hag

Yes / No, The 98.5 HX turbo has the HY style wastegate cover. (it has a straight T3 style V-band cover, where your truck has the elbow cast into the wastegate cover.) The Jacobs number for our trucks would have had the exhaust brake in the cast wastegate cover and elbow. If you source an HY style wastegate cover it SHOULD work, but I am not positive it will hook directly to the exhaust. I have one of these kits. A guy on ebay has/had them and that sounds like the deal I got(item 271024978656 make an offer). I am presently looking for a wastegate cover and will be putting this on soon. Hope to do a decent write up and should know how the exhaust hooks up. Mike and I talked about this the other night. It SHOULD work, but finding a new wastegate cover has not been easy yet. There are some on ebay new (probably cast in china) for like $80, but hoping to find and old used one for much less than that. hope these pictures will help http://forum.mopar1973man.com/thread...out-BHAF/page2 GL HTH Hag

Texas,Glad you found it!! Were both ends worn?Hag

Mike,I am sorry I can't help you yet, I too would like to have a way to decipher if the ECM is sending incorrect information, or if the VP44 is executing the information improperly.I won't mind helping you with this, but not sure where to start or go. From our discussion the other night, you killed one of my hopes, because i took it to mean the VP44 itself has programming, and does some of its own interpretation of the ECM information.This is almost exactly what my brother's truck is doing, but with ZERO codes. It will totally ignore the APPS input at certain times. The only thing we have found is that temperature has something to do with it. Cold it happens almost for certain. Warm not so much if any.Hag

Fire,Good catch!!! That was what you were looking for!! That little bit of relative movement.Glad you found it!!! Replacing them can just be a bear. They can be TIGHT in the axle.Hag

Ahhhh,That's what it was. I was in the reserves, and most of our sgts and up were 'Nam vets. So I probably picked it up from them. (edit: it could have been a "joke" to be calling you by the older name, I just didn't get it... lol now that's funny!!!)We usually just got to see you guys moving (trying to keep from getting run over!!!) don't have a clue how you guys maneuvered buttoned up!!! We would go in and dig defilades for ambushes or main battle positions. or tank ditches and obstacles trying to force a maneuver element into a kill zone. The M1's had just become our main battle tank (a lot of the national guard units still had M60's and M42 "dusters") when I was in. Saw Sheridans the most though, since we were an 82nd asset. So it was 19K in 80. Wow, so it must have been the mid 70's when they changed. (edit, just saw the new post)Thanks for fixing my link!!!Hag

Great pictures of the boots!!! (I think those are the best looking ones in the army. I liked those over the Corcorans the paras wore.) can't match our gloves though!! (lets see if this works.) notice the ones in the center.... with the big staples in it. Not sure where I remember the 11E as Mos for armor crew. (kinda odd now thinking about it, as the 11 is usually infantry related, 11B ground pounder, 11C mortar, etc) so maybe the 11E was armored cav or mechanized infantry. I was in late 80's to early 90's. Hag my kung-fu on hot linking pictures is not very good today.

The MOS's changed after I got out. Engineers are 21 now(no longer 12's) When did the armor change? Did you have buckle boots or velcro? (I am guessing that the velcro came in in the mid 90's. Our company XO was off active duty armor, and I really liked his boots. That was always so cool. I think he had some later that looked like lace up, but actually had a zipper up the side.)I got to looking, boy the new engineering vehicles are really cool the JCB has got to be tough, (it looks like it can do a bunch more than a SEE and can basically keep up with the Abrams and Bradleys) and the new MRAP and Buffalo variant. I really liked the MCLC (beat the snot out of a mine detector and bayonet...) and the GEMSS (beat the snot out of digging) ahhh the good ole days...Hag

Rogan, You tankers and your buckle boots!!! lol What was the MOS then, 11 Echo? I was a 12Bravo. running around digging holes for you guys to fire from (hide in )! That look like some armored battalion was going home from Ft Irwin, NTC deployment. The mix of Bradleys and M-1's just drips cavalry, the camera was too shaky to see if a few were outfitted as command vehicles. When we went came home it kinda looked like that except it was all deuces and 5 ton dumps (M 929), loaders, SEEs and D-8 and D-9s. Hag

Which pressures are you checking?A plugged orifice is usually easy to diagnose, as the low pressure side will be too low relative to the high side. The compressor will not come on and stay on as the low is below the low pressure switch threshold. If you are looking at only the low side what are the pressures and how do they change?GL HTHHag

JAG,Keep running what you have until you have some symptoms. Presently, from what I understand, you are showing no symptoms, just the one time you got a code? If that is correct, quit worrying about it. The chances that you are left "high and dry" are very slim. I won't say that it happens to all of them, but my brother has been driving a dying vp44 for about 6 years now. It is an internal electrical problem, and only occurs when cold. (dead pedal when cold.) He just adjusts his plans to never use it cold.I agree, due to the nature of the electrical boards, the chances of putting a not perfect one on as a replacement is extremely high. Hag