Haggar

015, I use crutchfield. They always send the faceplate and wiring harness for easy installation. Here is the page for the kenwoods. (wow a lot are out of stock) Start the website over and select your vehicle. I don't know if you have the upgraded stereo (with Bose speakers.) If you do I can help you figure it out. look at each of these and the different features. (the main differences are going to be android or apple and whether you want a CD player and such. https://www.crutchfield.com/g_462150/Bluetooth-Car-Stereos.html?tp=72310#&avf=Y&nvpair=FFBrand|Kenwood I hope that helps! Hag

Sorry, I thought you got past your front brake dragging. My suggestion, change the hose to that caliper. If you want to try and prove it, jump in the truck (off is fine, running is better) Jam on the brakes like you are about to get in an accident. Run to the front caliper you suspect (or have a buddy do it, just do it after you have released the brake pedal) (you can have the wheels turned to it is easy to get to the bleeder and have your wrench hanging there.) and open the bleeder. If it squirts out (like there was residual pressure) you need a new hose. (it won't squirt much, but basically if it does anything more than make the bleeder moist it is your problem.) The minute you remove your foot from the brakes, the master cylinder piston position should return to a neutral position, allowing free bake fluid flow back to the master. (this is why you can just push the pistons back when you change brakes.) so when you open it, there should be ZERO residual pressure. I have personally changed quite a few of these on dodges for this reason. in my limited data set, they have mostly been passenger side too..... (no idea why) GL HTH Hag

J, What does your ABS system look like? Does it look like this? The valve (item 6) "looks at" your rear ride height and allows rear brakes or not based on that height. Yours could be out of adjustment, making your rear brakes not work. So all your stopping is on the front brakes. Have you tried to bleed your rear brakes? Sometimes the problem will really show up then, very little flow. When this is working properly, during normal riding rear brakes work normally. if you jam on the brakes and the nose dives and the rear lifts, flow to the brakes is blocked so the rears won't "lock up". If you have changed ride height or the parts are worn or non functional, you are doing all the work with the fronts. HTH Hag

I only use kenwood now. The price/longevity are great. I have a couple kenwoods that are more than 15years old. The only reason I can see to need to change them, some of them were built before bluetooth, usb etc. My boys get flustered that they can't plug in their phone in and have to listen to the radio or CD's. (luckily, their taste in music is similar to mine so they just complain that there are only 20 songs or so on the disc.... lol) HTH Hag

T'man, Here you go. I think everything is covered here. at about 10:45 mark is where he starts talking and showing the internal vane pump. The excess flow from the vane pump is returned to the inlet of the vane. At the 15 minute or so mark he is showing the lift pump flow and return.

use an add a circuit to fuse 5 in the junction block (fuse panel on side of instrument panel) This one carries the dimmed voltage to the cluster light bulbs. This way there is no cutting of the original wiring that will bite you in the behind later. HTH Hag

Vinster, That sounds like what you suspect. Slow drain back. For long sits, I bump the starter just enough to energize the pump for the 30 seconds or so. shut it back off and wait 30 seconds or so and start normally. For my brother's truck there were many years(3-5) between the random power losses and the final poor cold start/driveablilty problem. After the poor cold performance (some see it as a poor hot start/hot driveability) we checked closer and swapped ECM PCM (from my truck to his) etc and the problem stayed with his truck. So we shotgunned and changed VP. GL Hag

Vinster, It will drive you nuts. There are so many things it could be. ECM, VP, or it could be like you said, slugs of air, or random limp mode from the map.... My brother's truck did this. Eventually it got worse and eventually cold start/cold driveablilty issues. All without a single code. The VP was the culprit, but extremely hard to diagnose and I don't suggest you just replace yours until you have exhausted other means of diagnosis. GL Hag

Mike, The FRRP does not "dead head". It has an internal regulator that returns the excess flow above which is needed to maintain the set pressure to the inlet of the pump. It works similar to your bigger pump, except it is returned to the inlet of the pump vanes, not going directly back to the tank. Long periods of "dead heading" the outlet from the pump would cause the temperature to rise more quickly in the FRRP than yours because yours would have to heat the whole tank, and this would only have to heat the fluid right around the pump. But we should never run at a dead head situation. (the lift pump is tied to a running motor. an idling motor still has flow both through the injectors and the pump case drain.) Getting closer to the tank is nice. It reduces the NPSH, and with as much fuel as your pump flows, it helps being that close. But as long as your inlet loss is less than the NPSH needed by the pump, there should not be a problem. Hag

Loren, Hook a cheap volt meter up to the pump leads and watch it just like you watch pressure. (make the leads long enough to put it in the cab.) See if there is a change in voltage that would lead you to believe that there should be a corresponding change in pressure. If you have pressure changes without voltage changes, you can more likely assume that something is wrong in the pressure regulating side of the pump and no issue with the ECM. HTH Hag

Jimbo, You don't mention what lift pump you are running and how it is connected. The reason I say this.... I ran into a similar issue not long ago. I still had one of the original o-ring quick connect fittings in the system. This would randomly allow air to enter. I also changed pumps. I do think the pump was allowing air to enter. I still have the old pump hoping to set up a test loop and see if i could catch it sucking air. anyway, since i replaced the pump and that last quick connect, I have not had a problem since. HTH Hag

Keep looking. It sounds suspiciously like a dying VP with no codes. But that is an expensive jump to just throw a part at it. It is very hard to confirm though. is the problem wiring, ECM or VP? You just have to check everything else to death, then decide to replace one of the two components (vp or ecm) if the ECM is booting properly, my money is on the VP. Good luck HTH Hag

Glad you found it! Much easier to repair than the differential! Hag

Dripley is mentioning the "carrier bearing" that is part of our 2 piece drive shaft. The "carrier bearings" that I replaced in my brother's truck are the bearings that support the Ring gear carrier (center section) of the rear differential. (sorry I was not more specific) When you have your cover off to change the fluid, spend a minute looking closely at the gears inside, and pry the carrier, it should not move left to right or up and down at all. I hope you are just having trouble with the clutches sticking. That is the most simple explanation GL HTH Hag

The tag inside of the glove box should say DSA if you have the anti-slip or whatever they call it. DRL is the dana 80 (which you should have) DMD or DMF is 3.54 or 4.11 ratio (you have one or the other) WLA is dual rear wheels (which you should also have) If you do not have DSA on that tag, your truck was not originally equipped, but someone could have swapped rear ends. My brother's truck with just a tick over 100k miles needed carrier bearings. never jumpy or poppy like you are saying, just noisy. I like the idea of just change the fluid. put anti-friction additive in. It will not hurt an open differential, and helps a posi. (some axle fluids come with the additive already in it, because it doesn't hurt an open diff.) HTH Hag

Yeah the manual only talks about the fronts. If I picked the part correctly that is an M14 bolt. (06504691) It looks like it says 10.9 on the head in your picture. The most you should put on it is 120 ft*lb. I would set it at 100/110 and roll. HTH Hag

Wil sorry about that! I wish I had known, I would have sent you to Gould gear & electric. https://www.fixinrams.com/ Their site is not the greatest, but on the phone they can help a lot and get you what you need. Hope your rebuild goes fine! Hag

01 FSM 9-292. I thought it was higher too.

The only reason I mentioned it, was there may be a larger variety of different lockers for you. I thought you were concerned that the locker you wanted was not available in the 70. If the locker you want is available in the 80, it would help your overall picture just to upgrade to an 80 if you can find one. Otherwise, no I wouldn't change to an 80 just for giggles. In the SRW version they are not really that different. just a bit bigger ring and pinion and carrier bearings. Wheel bearings (and we think floater axle diameter) are the same on the 70U and 80 SRW. Hag

Yes, that will give you the "longest" control arm you can have with what you have. (the bolt is pushed in its slot furthest to the rear.) HTH Hag

Ahhh... Castor is in the front axle. The only way to get more or less is to rotate the axle. That is what the cam bolts do. Just take a quick peek and make sure the cam bolts are offset to the rear of the truck (the thicker part of the cam washer to the front of the vehicle.) Death wobble is so weird. It happens so fast, it is hard to determine who started it.... Whose control arms did you use? I noticed a couple vendors selling 14mm bolt diameter lower control arms for our trucks, but 16mm is the correct bolt size. Did you notice anything funny like that when you put yours in? Good luck! I feel your pain. That is not fun!! Hag

A damper is NOT the difference between non wobble and wobbly. You are just masking a problem. You mention fixing all kinds of stuff except the control arms. Did you replace those bushings? Also what orientation are your cam bolts? When you push the front axle down with the lift kit, you make the lower control arms even "shorter". Our fixed caster front axles do not like this. (If you think about it when you pushed the axle down (relative to the frame) because it is on a radius, you rotated the front axle forward. This made the caster worse. Try a longer lower control arm, or at LEAST make sure the cam bolts are turned so that the lower control arm is as long as possible. (if they are not set at longest possible now, adjust them and see if it changes your wobble. It should. Given the lift, it may not fix it totally, but many guys get away with basically a leveling lift, so it might get you back closer.) I suggest trying an adjustable lower control arm rather than a steering damper. HTH Hag

Do you want the selector or the actuator..... (selector failure is rare. actuator failure more common.) Selector is the same on all models only difference is with or without power mirrors. HTH Hag

NICE! I love them. I never had a boat tail, but wanted one so bad... I had a couple Toronados (66 and 70) and an Eldarado (67) Have always loved the Riviera The first gen for dainty elegance, the second gen because it looked a lot like the toronado and eldarado... and the boat tail for it's unique look. Also loved how GM wouldn't let Buick use the FWD platform of the Olds and Caddy, but Buick and Pontiac (think Grand Prix) did everything it could get away with to offer a Luxury/Sports car in the same size range. I was at Woodward a few years ago, and I ran into a fellow that had channeled his boat tail by about 4". (channeling drops the body relative to the frame.... so the opposite of a "body lift") I could not believe how good that looked!!! Hag

Bullet, Just find a complete 80 axle. They came behind manual transmissions in the 2500 series (so you get the single rear wheel configuration). You are going to pay a bit more to have rear discs, since the rear disc was only '01.5 and 02. Those would bolt right in. I am unsure what happened with the 3rd gen axles but I can't believe they are significantly different. Hag