Clunk

And run up a little more rpm before upshifting. Installing a stock hX35 puts good drivability and towing back in the truck.

There's no power to be picked up using bio. It adds lubricity to the fuel to lube yer injector pump and all the other parts rubbing together in the fuel system.

Stock cast block....figures. Nitro engine builders figured that out 45 years ago.

With all those supporting mods, the engine operating rpm will have to be increased. The off-idle power is very poor while trying to spin up a big compressor & turbine, even with lots of fuel.

The bio around here is B20, 20% soy biodiesel. When I buy fuel, I'll add B20 at 10% the volume of fuel I'd recently purchased.....1 gal. B20/10 gal. diesel fuel. Most counter sales people don't know anything about fuel and neither do the managers. If the sticker says B20, I take it as B20. Now the tanker guy might know a little about the mix of his product.

Within 3 months after I started using 2% soy biodiesel, my lift pump fuel pressure dropped and I found my fuel filter black. It was over a year before it needed changing again. A coupla years later my fuel lever sensor failed and while changing it, I ran my hand are far as I could reach, feeling the bottom and sides of the fuel tank. My hand came out clean and everything felt smooth. I still use 2% soy biodiesel per the well known wear ball test results.

Man, that is some great info, with pics too, thanks KATOOM!

Looks like it's sunk in gell too. I guess the lift pump could be run when the VP temp. got too high after engine shutdown but some pumps draw alotta current. Mine is rated at 4 amps.

This was a hot topic on another site about 14 years ago and ideas for addressing VP heat was varied & very interesting.

Thanks, my pump is rated 140gph. Wow, I need to update my signature.

Did someone say fuel cooler? Here's some old info, It's getting hot here so I went to a local boneyard and purchased a trans cooler for $10 and installed it so that when the motor is running, air is being pulled past this cooler. I bought a cooler install kit, hose & clamps at the auto parts store. I trimmed all the existing mounting brackets off the cooler since they didn't fit anything on the truck. There is a stud and a place for screwing in a bolt like maybe a factory extra heavy duty trans cooler in the same area. I cut the return line just where it gets to the frame rail and added enough fuel hose to get to the front of the truck. Ran the hose across the frame, behind the brake lines and over the inner fender to the front. After I finished the job and 1 hr. test ride and it does work but not as good as I'd hoped. The fuel gets cooled to ambient sure enough and the fuel tank is cool but there's still a bunch of heat soak from the motor I guess. I can now hold my hand on the VP top until I get bored but it's still very warm. The good part is even if I get stopped in traffic, the fuel will be cooled as long as the motor is running. Just for general knowledge, I timed the flow of the return line....a little over 3 qts./2 min. @ idle and 2qt./min. @ 1600 rpm stationary....lift pump showed 15 psi. Oh, it's still on the truck after many years. Heat soak is still an issue so I raise the hood after I get home on hot days.

Most cool addition to the bag of tricks, thanks Michael!

I had a coupla inches of sleet & snow on my onion sets but they're pretty tough.

Welcome to the site, Here's some #53 block info, http://www.stamey.info/truck/cummins53blockfaq.htm

Teach your children and later, grandchildren well.

I'm thinking about trying it. Even though I plant after the last frost date, they'll turn kinda blue and sulk until we get some 80 degree days, then they'll get interested. You grow pickling cucumbers?

I fail miserably at starting plants indoors. I'll likely try a fluoresent light close to the grow kit plants next winter. The local Lowes and nearby nursuries have good plants at the start of the growing season here. I're read that putting black plastic sheeting in the rows you're going to plant, warms the ground so you'll get an earlier start. Have you heard of that?

I used to get some WOT surging that turned out to be the Comp supplied pump wire connector. After soldering, the surging stopped. What's yer lift pump fuel pressure show during the surge event?

My 60-60-14wg hybrid doesn't surge when I run it. It works good w/Edge Comp and jammer 100's. I set the boost at 40psi. My Cat/Borg-Warner C300/62-65-.70ar has small cracks in the exhaust housing but are getting no worse the past 3 years.

I mulch with grass clippings and use a bunch of drip hose to deliver stinky sulfur water from my old well to the plants. When aphids get too abundant, I find ladybugs and set them on the plants...they really like to eat aphids. I can go on about gardening...it's my 2nd hobby.

And only 30% efficient. Electric, at 85% efficiency is the future fellas. How nice it would be to be given sufficient funds to follow it through, complete with solar charging.

Back when I heated with wood, I'd get a good fire going, close the damper and nearly close the draft on the wood stove. After a coupla months, the inside of the chimney would be glossy black with creosote, oozing to the base of the fireplace and clogging the condensate drain hole, which stinks very much bad and irritates Mrs. Clunk. After unclogging the hole, scraping up the creosote and laying down aluminum foil to catch creosote, I'd be good for another coupla months. Mrs. Clunk was bad about letting the fire burn down, loading in a lotta firewood, opening the ash pan door to get the fire restarted quick, then leave it open. Poor old stove would turn into a blast furnace and light off the creosote.....looked like an upside down skyrocket and nearly burned the house down twice. I'm old now and we heat with a heat pump, the fireplace is for small decoration fires but I put the old wood stove in my little shop and burn used motor oil, WITH NO DAMPER...free flowing exhaust now.

I was 262 at the 1st of the year but backslid up to 267. My last tare tickets showed around 7300 lbs. at the gravel pit.

I like big gauges. My poor eyes have a problem with small displays. Plus, gauges can be mechanical. I do like the idea of a low fuel pressure warning light.

Just changed out the master & slave cylinders following Mopar1973Man's instructions today and it worked out just fine. Thanks again:cool: