rancherman

little confused here. is it the 2001 or 2003.. those are not CR's. Are you getting fuel from the same place everytime this happens, or is it no matter where you buy it? The truck with the new in-tank LP.. this is the one you are talking about right? Isspro gauges; you have fuel pressure correct? what's pressure doing when it's acting up? was the LP changed out to fix THIS problem... and didn't fix it?

'bout fell outta the chair here!!! talk about vertigo! LOL, Sounds good!

neighbor has a corn stove. He fills it with a 5 gallon bucket 2x day. (strong bushel per day) Now, back when corn was 7-8 bucks a bushel, It was pretty hard to fill that thing. Even todays price of ~3.50 Is a little 'rich'. LOL Not near the interest in them these days. Dumb thing is nutz to watch, little auger dribbles 1 or 2 kernels every few seconds, Keeping the motherboard alive in the brainbox is very pricey though.

interesting.. I never would've guessed the pellets as economical as that! Course, splitting wood half the winter, then going to the chiropractor, then the eye doctor to remove wood chips from orbs... all part of the 'cheap' wood supply!

LOL, yah, why 'fix' a 'cash cow'??

2 years now, running both 2 stroke and some form of anti gel. When to add? 'THE DAY BEFORE YOU REALLY NEED IT". Seriously now, When expecting a cold blast, say several days of 15 or lower at night.. go for it. put it in when you fill the tank... so it is in the fuel before it clouds. After it clouds, it's too late. If you are sure you have straight #2 diesel, with no winterization products Then this ^^^^ should work for you.

crawled under front end today and pulled the fitting off the vac motor. Vac seemed a lot more suction on the 2wd setting as opposed to 4wd. I'll try blowing out the lines first. I'll try swapping in a known good vac switch next.

Gotcha! Kero is probably the best way to 'get back online' . but it's expensive, and not very healthy for pumps and injectors. It makes a fantastic parts cleaner. (hint hint)..

Yesterday, hauled some cattle home, and our sand is pretty dry.. and LOOSE. So, normally I'd kick it into 4x4 as we get close to the load out area. I've learned to kick it in at least 100 yards before expecting the light to come on. Sometimes it comes on immediately, and sometimes I have to stop...back up a little. No matter, yesterday, Nuttin. Crawled under to see if any vac lines were off. All ok. I need to pop the hood to check the vac supply.. although my hvac doors work ok. I did notice the Vacuum motor on the axle disconnect was 'loose'. Not quite floppy, but easy to turn on it's nipple that attaches it to the alum housing of the axle. ... It's been almost 10 years since any of my rams needed this, Kinda forgot the checklist for finding the problem. If I just disconnect the vac tube at the actuator, I should feel a vac in one of the lines.. correct? and by shifting the handle on the TC, the other line should be 'vac' correct? I remember the little vac valve on the TC was problematic on my gassers years ago.

The times I do use kero.. I'll put 10 gallons in a tractor. (IF IT WILL FIT ) most the time, the tank is too full to add very much of anything! If your tank is almost full, top it off with kero.. but try not to get it too diluted.. 1/4th total?? Your right, it is pretty 'light'. and DRY. This is where throwing some 2 stroke back in to help with lube. I look at kero . as the next level down from #1. I only use kero as a emergency fix. There are better and cheaper means to keep the fuel flowing. 'course, the cheapest way to buy is bulk at fuel/oil depots.. next would be something like a farm supply store. (five gallon jugs) and the worst but most easy to find.. Hardware, home improvement.. (1 gallon bottles) Bulk price would be about 5.50 gallon... up to almost 10 bucks a gallon for the little plastic jug size. Dude, it's been 40 and 50 all this week! tonight is when the '****' hits the fan.. You sure you're gelled?

smell that leak... and make sure it's what you think it is.. brake fluid or axle lube. Does the leak appear from the flange (outside the rim) or is it coming out from the inside drum? Is your rear axle REALLY hot after a 20-30 mile trip? as in, you would really not want to hold your hand too long.. Hotter than the hottest bath water you would take. Feel the axle hubs too. There is a chance the noise is coming from your rear axle.. Wild and free is right on 'sound travels'! have a bud drive while you sit in the box.. and downshift to replicate your symptoms. sometimes by putting your ear right on top of the shift handle... trans in N, and rap the throttle a little. Instead of a nice even 'whirling' noise... a bad bearing can sound 'chirpy' gravely, or just plain ol not smooth.

you'll be fine. I've had some stuff ( our combine) runs 2-3 weeks per year, and it sits for 11.5 months. You filled your tank clear up.. which is the best way to store a vehicle Don't forget you have summer fuel in there!

I'm Just glad someone is willing to buy them new!! How many of members here can remember the 'first' pickup that broke the 10k mark?? I thought we were in the 'End Times'.. I was 12 yo when dad rolled home in his first new pickup, a 1973 GMC 1500, and he paid 2850 for it. It was a demo, with 120 miles on the clock.

Man, I woulda sworn I seen a 'recommended' stud install on the ARP site about the 3X 'wake up' for bringing a new stud into service. They have a lot of pages, tabs to cruise through, and I couldn't find it again. I may have used the wrong term.. 'set' may not be correct. We still want elasticity so the bolt or stud wants to keep pulling the object down... no matter the conditions or cycles. 'waking up' or 'exercising' might be a better, non scientific term! Work strengthening?? The 3 layer sequence is a must for getting the head clamped down evenly... This ^^^^^ is for bringing a new fastener into service. Now, a connecting rod isn't a typical rigid joint. (like the cylinder head) there are forces and pressure vectors in play that are not like the cylinder head.. and THIS is definitely a multi torque and release type joint for new hardware.. I may have conjectured this with the cylinder head studs.

dang... that is simple enough!

CPP has their p-pump conversion kits on sale... $1575 plus the cost of the pump...

Meh, low speeds the BB's will be in the bottom of the tire.. and soon fling out when 'up to speed'.. I imagine it wouldn't very fast until they are pinned to the tire. The static build up would hold them pretty snug no??? My only concern... all the patches I typically run would be buzzed off!! I've heard of this too.. anyone care to 'splain the physics of how it works?? Hey, what about 00 lead buckshot? other than a 'little' inhalation hazard whilst changing the tire.. or would the lead just ball up and make a big slug?

Doesn't ARP suggest a 3X torque-relax, to pre stretch and work harden their hardware? (new hardware only) Not talking about torqueing in 3 stages (which I do) I run 4 laps on the 903.. but actually torqueing a stud to full torque, release, torque, release, torque release and the final torque. After ALL THAT the fastener Is considered " set" It is a pita physically! Ya better eat your Wheaties! We do this on all rod bolts that are brand new...

Not sure.... but back 'then' wasn't that the time when GM went away from their gearbox transfer case, and went with a chain drive?... first editions may have had problemos.. The only vehicle I have that see's any benefit to running 91 alcohol free, is my Toyota.. The knock sensor really likes it.. and advances the distributor... But, I"ll be danged to throw in 40 cent more per gallon in a go-fer type bomber!! CPM probably a 'wash'. Volkwagon: congrats! I wondered who was going to snare one first in here!

Pretty impressive 'rack' ya got there! Your perceived 'ride' won't really change too much.. but road noise, vibration may. . Some have said their cab is now a giant sounding board... if you have something already rattling under your dash... it's gonna be a little louder now. oops! wrong guy! direct this to CTcummins! anyhoo, if your rubber mounts are trash, these poly's may actually be nicer.. no more steel on steel.. or jolts cause the cab isn't flopping around.

Lightly lube the threads on the stud going into the block too. I mean LIGHTLY! ARP suggests it as well. reason? a normal bolt will 'scour' and polish it's way home. (final resting place) That final 1/2 turn under tension... there's a lot going on! a hand screwed stud doesn't. It only holds, and it may bite in. Which is fine until you eventually remove it. Galling on the way out isn't cool. Then as above post, lube on the top threads, between the nut and both sides of the washer.

Ok, I missed the fass 95. (update yer sig man!!) LOL Only reason I mentioned air in the line is: Lots of engines over the years suffer eventually from it. Fuel lines, seals, push connectors... all get tired. symptoms can range from miss, all the way up to not running, loss of prime.. Granted, the source of air should be between the tank... up to and including the fass. You've pretty much eliminated the 'moderate' cost items.. and venturing on the 'next level'.; I just wanted to throw this out there before taking the plunge, and eliminating a possible 5 dollar 'fix'. ^ rethinking the plastic hose trick^ instead of putting it back to the VP just route it back to a bucket on the ground, choke it down a little so it flows a little slower ( wide open fass probably will shoot pretty fast ) Loop it up and over the fender, then back down to the catch pan. If nothing else, you'll eliminate this possibility for only a couple buck 'test'.

going to the edge of the gangplank here. answer? Air. Air is the answer to 'what else is in the fuel system'.. You got a roving miss correct? And before you all jump me for 'he's got good pressure'.... that air bubble will not lessen the pressure one bit. it'll compress down to 18 psi just as the fuel is on both sides of it. Pressure gauge wouldn't even notice. Check your fass for any seepage, and the filters too. One miniscule pinhole in the suction side filter.. (I MEAN tiny) is all it takes. I've seen rock chipped filters wreak havoc. Seal going bad in the fass may let air through the motor if the motor is pinholed too.. I'd get some clear hose to run from the filter to the vp... and see if there are bubbles. loop it up and you'll know immediately. Don't keep it on the truck though, it's pretty flimsy stuff.

good to hear the lousy economy on the 3.7! I may have actually did something right I too am the same on the new/used scenario.. I really think if someone can afford a 50-60k vehicle, chances are, they don't really care what it gets for economy, or the price of fuel! Dads first NEW pickup.... 1973 GMC 1500. Cost, $2850.00... price of fuel then? (pre gas shortage; 50 cents) it got 11 mpg.. no matter what you did. 4.5 cents per mile. Today... new half ton, eco diesel is going to push 50k?? fuel is 3.85. and lets give it 27 mpg. 14.25 cents per mile.. (not figuring def either) price of the investment has almost gone up 18x, but fuel costs per mile 'only' 3x higher.. LOL... How's THAT for polishing a turd?