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What's everyone one using for a map sensor? My stock one maxes out at 40psi. I'm suspect that I'm making more boost than 40. I have the quadzilla BT gauges and dont want to run manual gauge.

No boost and 100% transmission slip???? So I just changed my oil and fuel filters along with fixing an oil leak on the vacuum pump. To fixing the oil leak I unplugged the sensor behind the vacuum pump and the three wire plug next to the engine ID plate..... fixed the oil leak and re-assembled everything. While I was drive home, I noticed it not registering boost and the trans was at 100% slip. I foot braked it to try and build some boost. It start to build up but felt like it just fell on its face and didn't have any power. Still drove okay I tried resetting the app sensor no change. 01 2nd gen, BT iquad all the normal mods. Looking for ideas?!

Okay I've got something going on with my truck and I'm in need of ideas. My truck sounds different (more tinney rattle) in the top end, less power, less boost higher EGT's. I pulled the valve cover off and re-torqued everything. I was worried something vibrated loose. Everything was tight. I did start the truck while the valve cover was off, and I could hear what was I think was the injectors. Not sure what they are suppose to sound like? I haven't changed a thing with any settings in the Quad tuning. I'm running the edge tune, (I can post them if anyone wants to look them over). Only thing that I found was the set screw on the boost elbow backed out and was gone. I replaced it (screwed all the in) built a "boost tester" pressurized the system, zero boost leaks. I'll add the data logs, the one in green is from January, red one is from yesterday. Today I adjusted the valves ( they were a little loose), while running the truck after the valve lash adjustment I noticed the fuel pressure was running between 12-13 psi at idle. I put a mechanical gauge on it and I've got a crazy surging going on. It will stay at 12ish - psi for a second or two, then surge up to 22ish, then drop back to 12ish again(I'll try and add a short video). I did the bucket test on the fass 150 everything is flowing great no surge, Next, I put everything back except pulled the fuel line off the vp44 and ran it into the fuel tank via main fill hose (used the key bump flowed great). Last, I powered the pump with a constant power source independent of the trucks electrical system flowed great no surge. What I need ideals with is I think I have possible two problems aggravating each other. First is the loss of power, boost with higher EGT. I'm not sure on this one bc I haven't changed anything with the power out put in my tune. Just showed up along with the change in engine sound... Re-recap: boost test= no leaks, replaced the boost elbow set screw(I found it missing), adjusted valves, no blow by, waste gate functioning normal with compressed air test. Second is the fuel surging issue... It only seems to surge when the fuel lines are hooked up to the vp44. I'm wondering if there is a fuel return regulator or valve that's malfunctioning ? Re-cap: Fass 150 bucket test= no surge, in-tank pick up used to feed the fass 150 and pressure line flowing into tank fill = no surge, out side power source = no surge, all the lines back in the places they came from(pick-up, pressure, return) truck running with out side power source= surge, same as test before truck power source= surge Video file is to big, it won't let me upload it. I can email it to anyone that wants to take a look. Thanks guys any input or ideas will help!!

I was thinking of getting a new turbo to run on my truck. Has anyone ran one the Bladerunners. here is the website link for the turbo I was looking at. http://www.xtremediesel.com/afebladerunnerturbocharger46-60061.aspx

So I finally ordered and installed my gauges. I got Isspro EV2 Black Face gauges, 0-30psi Fuel Pressure, 0-1600* Pyro, 0-100psi Boost. Installed and working minus the fuel pressure gauge. I just got the last piece of that puzzle so tomorrow that will be totally functional. After I grew the cahoneys to drill a hole in my exhaust manifold it was cake work. I spent a lot of time running my wires to keep them clean looking and safe. Spent a lot of time cutting and fitting my stock a-pillar cover to get the gauge pod to fit nice and flush and as close to factory as possible. I hate when people do sloppy installs. But they look great!Pics to come soon!!

I have a triple gauge pod with speaker hole for my a-pillar. What three gauges should I get? I originally wanted trans temp, egt's, and boost. But I have been reading a lot about how important fuel pressure is to monitor also. What are you guys running? And what is the best combo set up? If I go with all 4 gauges, where would the best place be to placed the other one? Thanks guys.

So I posted a thread a little while ago about my turbo and it throwing a p0234 code. Got no respose. So, I decided I would try and dig a little deeper into the issue. I thought about making a leak tester to see if I can figure out what was going.So I went to the local stores and parted together a tester. Got a 4" rubber coupling and a 4" adapter with a cap. Put an air regulator on the end and called it good.So I put the tester on the inlet of the turbo and put the pressure to it. If I apply more than 10psi, the tester wants to slide off the turbo from the pressure. The rubber will also balloon out. I was getting a little nervous about a catastrophic failure but I managed to get it up to 23psi I think the wife said.I'm not sure if its normal or not, but I think my boost elbow is an edge boost elbow for one, but then also I dunno if the little hole on the side of it is normal or not? I may of not had the engine turned at the right point to keep the pressure up either but I was loosing pressure.My intent with the tester was to actually see if I could get the wastegate to actuate to see if the wastegate was indeed stuck. I dunno at what psi its supposed to open?So instead, I stuck the air hose up to the wastegate line with an air nozzle and applied air that way. It made the arm move and the wastegate actuated...So, I'm wondering now, if I have the boost elbow on is if thats whats causing me to throw the code? I took the truck out after and floored it. The highest the boost got was 27psi. With my injectors and boost elbow, should'nt I be making moe boost then that? Is 27psi also enough to throw the p0234 code as well?

Any opinions on have much boost i can safely run with a stock fuel system?

What I have done: 1. #6 Fuel Plate - Full Forward 2. Boost Elbow 3. 4" Full Exhaust 4. TC Lockup Switch 5. BHAF http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/dodge/1002dp_1994_to_1998_dodge_ram_power_recipes/1500_budget.html What I'm thinking of doing (in order): 1. Timing 2. 3K RPM Springs 3. Injectors I'm expecting my trans to blow up, so that will give me an excuse to go to a manual or build the 47rh. What I don't want to do is blow the head gasket, so I don't want so much power that requires me mod the head or valve springs.