Grinding sound when driving straight or turning left

[Ironforger]

02 3500 QC6 speed RWD 215k

Independent front suspension.

When driving straight or turning left, there is some kind of low mechanical grinding sound coming from the right side of my truck. With it is a slight vibration. Hard to tell if it's from the front or rear of truck. The sound disappears when making right turns.  The tone changes with speed increase or decrease, and its most noticeable between 40mph and 60mph so it's definitely something rotational.  No difference if truck is in gear or coasting in neutral.  Issue has been gradually getting worse over the past few months.

I suspect front right wheel bearing but would like to hear some opinions here.

Front wheel bearings are all original equipment.

Rear wheel bearings are new 2 years ago (approx 6000 miles) - top of the line timkens

Steering tie rods and idler arms all new.  Balljoints all original equipment - one is slightly worn. All ball joints to be replaced in near future.

Brakes are good - recent new pads, calipers etc.

I jacked up front of truck - inspected wheels - no noticeable play and wheels spin freely by hand no noticeable noise (sans slight brake pad drag)

 

Thanks

 

 

[Hawkez]

Have you inspected your brakes?  Does the sound change with brake pressure?

[Me78569]

Yea grinding and rotating means brakes are the first thing changed for me.

 

Does the grinding go away when you apply the brakes?

 

Brake shields good still? Not bent in?

 

[AH64ID]

To me grinding would be wheel bearings before brakes as brakes squeal more than grind. 

[Mopar1973Man]

My thought exactly! Front unit bearings are wearing out.

[Hawkez]

Probably.  I had as break pad fail on me on time.  The pad came a part and the metal rivet was left grinding against my rotor.  It left a nice grove. 

[Ironforger]

Thanks for the replies.

Brakes are good - recent new pads & calipers about 8 months ago & inspected last week.   Sound does not change in relation to braking.  Dust shields are fine.

Maybe I'm not so good at describing the sound - it's not the type of metal scraping sound you might hear if brake pads are gone such as metal on metal rotors or scraping dust shield.  - it's more of a hum - the tone of which changes in relation to speed.  Accompanied by a slight vibration.  The sound disappears below 30 mph.

 

I'm leaning towards bearings being the culprit.  Any tips on changing out? I understand it's a hub/bearing assembly.

2 wheel drive independent suspension.

 

thanks!

[Me78569]

More of a wurring sound than grinding?

 

 

I would think wheel bearings.  Not a bad job.  Get the good quality ones.

[CSM]

Depending on how rusted the bearing is, at least on the 4x4, you may end up replacing a ball joint or two.  You may need a really big hammer if it is suck in there. 

[IBMobile]

2 hours ago, Me78569 said:

More of a wurring sound than grinding?

 

 

I would think wheel bearings.  Not a bad job.  Get the good quality ones.

I'll second that. Makes noise going straight or on left turn - you've got a bad right wheel bearing. When turning your unloading the wheel your turning into and loading the opposite wheel, That's why you hear the grinding in the right wheel on a left turn. It's getting pretty bad if you can hear it going straight.

Edited November 22, 2015 by IBMobile
double post

[Ironforger]

2 hours ago, IBMobile said:

I'll second that. Makes noise going straight or on left turn - you've got a bad right wheel bearing. When turning your unloading the wheel your turning into and loading the opposite wheel, That's why you hear the grinding in the right wheel on a left turn. It's getting pretty bad if you can hear it going straight.

Makes sense. Good explanation.

I'll plan on changing out the right front wheel bearing. Once I have the old bearing out, I'll slice it in half / cut it open to reveal the internal condition. I'll post pictures of it here. 

Trying to get all the important service done before winter sets in. Costs are adding up!  Last week I installed a new borgeson high pressure power steering pump & rebuilt the vacuum pump.

So now i have to do this wheel bearing & it also needs a new harmonic balancer, u joints/center bearing & trans output seal 

[Mopar1973Man]

Heck you could of got a NAPA reman'ed power steering pump and done Cowboys steering pump mod and had the same thing. Would of saved a bunch!

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-12v-dodge-cummins/70-steering-and-suspension/502-hotrod-ps-pump

Vacuum pump seal kits from Cummins is only $13 bucks. Again another cheap fix.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/469-vacuum-pump-rebuild

[Ironforger]

 

I like to save money when I can but I'm about done with NAPA. Way too many failures with their parts. That A-1 cardone stuff is crap. Too many issues to list. Over the past few years I've had numerous problems with NAPA parts - literally problems averaging 50% of everything I've purchased from them.

[IBMobile]

I have to agree with Ironforger about NAPA. 20 years ago their parts were O'k but now they're way proud of their stuff and charge accordingly.  The only thing I get from them are hose clamps, nuts and bolts, and axle shafts for the Volvos. As for A-1 cardone, I don't think I've ever used their parts.

[ronman]

Nothing really special about replacing the hub. You need a big socket (42mm or 1-5/8" as I recall) and either a really long cheater bar or an impact with big balls. My "Earthquake" impact that's rated 750lb-ft wouldn't budge it, but the neighbor/Ford tech's 1500lb-ft Snap-on zipped it right off.

Once you get the nut off just pull the hub off the spindle, clean up the ABS sensor real good and just slide the new hub on and tighten it down. I think it calls for 350lb-ft?
I didn't replace the nut on mine, but some people say to do it. I didn't have any issues at all with mine.

[Hawkez]

On ‎11‎/‎22‎/‎2015‎ ‎3‎:‎12‎:‎38‎, ronman said:

Nothing really special about replacing the hub. You need a big socket (42mm or 1-5/8" as I recall) and either a really long cheater bar or an impact with big balls. My "Earthquake" impact that's rated 750lb-ft wouldn't budge it, but the neighbor/Ford tech's 1500lb-ft Snap-on zipped it right off.

My floor jack handle works great as a breaker bar

[gh0stman]

On ‎11‎/‎21‎/‎2015‎ ‎9‎:‎58‎:‎37‎,

On ‎11‎/‎21‎/‎2015‎ ‎9‎:‎51‎:‎48‎, AH64ID said:

To me grinding would be wheel bearings before brakes as brakes squeal more than grind. 

On ‎11‎/‎21‎/‎2015‎ ‎9‎:‎58‎:‎37‎, Mopar1973Man said:

My thought exactly! Front unit bearings are wearing out.

That's my thoughts as well just replaced my driver front wheel bearing assy as well. No squeels or metallic noise since. OP If that is your problem you will need a 41MM socket and a new spindle nut. Depending on your body weight you may need a buddy to help twist it off.

 

[Dieselfuture]

Not shure if it's too late, but you can drill and tap them and get some fresh grease in there. I did it to mine when I first started to notice a little noise, been about 6k now and no noise.