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Opinions on Amsoil and bypass filtration.


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Hi all,

So I'm getting ready to do an oil change and I realized that I'm paying almost as much for Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme 5w-40, which is full synthetic(not sure if it's group 3 or 4 though) as I would be for some of the Amsoil products which I know are group 4 base stocks. So I'm looking into switching to Amsoil. I'd like opinions on which version to use and if I should get a bypass filtration kit while I'm at it. I know they have several different diesel oils and I don't know which one I should use. I originally went with the Valvoline PBX because I wanted the 5w-40 and full synth for the cold temps up here. I can definitely hear when the oil gets to the motor which makes me feel a lot better about things. So I don't know if I should use 15w-40 with Amsoil since its synthetic or if I should still use the 5w-40 even though its recomend for newer engines. I'm also wondering how long I should go on an interval. I was always brought up on 3000 miles, but I know you'll all say that's crazy. So I'm looking to extend intervals and save some cash with this stuff being so expensive. I've read a lot about oils especially when deciding to go with the Valvoline PBX in 5w-40, so I know some general stuff. I'm just looking for some specifics and opinions and advice from you all. 

Thanks!

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I found that Fleetguard oil filters had a better designed flow back valve than most store brands. I've seen several cheap filter that drain back the system because of a cheap flow back valve. This is what creates that long period of zero pressure where a good Fleetguard typically doesn't have an issue with. 

 

3,000 miles on any oil is way too early. Again manufacture specs are 7,500 miles. I'm sure AH64ID will say to have it tested and you'll find the end of your limits for oil life. That is the best way to go to find a good oil change interval.

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Interesting that you mention the flow back valve, because last time I changed oil, I noticed that my Fleetguard was only about half full or so. I had read about it in the past so didn't worry about it, but isn't that what the flow back valve is supposed to prevent? Also, is it true that the Donaldson ELF or the Baldwin are better than the Fleetguard  LF16035? 

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2 hours ago, leathermaneod said:

Also, is it true that the Donaldson ELF or the Baldwin are better than the Fleetguard  LF16035? 

 

Direct that to AH64ID he's the in house filter guru...

 

2 hours ago, leathermaneod said:

Interesting that you mention the flow back valve, because last time I changed oil, I noticed that my Fleetguard was only about half full or so. I had read about it in the past so didn't worry about it, but isn't that what the flow back valve is supposed to prevent?

 

Yea... That isn't suppose to be happening. Flow back valve is suppose to keep the oil system primed up. Not allowing it to drain back into the pan. Bad filter maybe....

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I sent him a pm. Hopefully he will chime in. Thanks for the tip. As for the draining back to the pan, now I'm anxious to see how the current filter is when I take it off. Also appreciate the info on that. What oil and filter setup do you run Mike? I seem to recall you have a bypass setup, but you don't run synthetic? 

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1 minute ago, leathermaneod said:

I seem to recall you have a bypass setup

 

I've got a Frantz Filter but not in use. Never finished fixing it being that toilet paper rolls are all different now and don't seal properly. I started considering a spin on option but the micron rating isn't low enough (5-7 micron). AMSOil is to rich for my blood for bypass or oils.

 

2 minutes ago, leathermaneod said:

you don't run synthetic

 

No I don't.

 

2 minutes ago, leathermaneod said:

What oil and filter setup do you run Mike?

 

I should say it...

 

Last oil change was a NAPA Gold and Valvoline Premium Blue 15w-40 (petroleum base). I got the oil on sale at my local NAPA store. Not worth the trip 120 miles (Grangeville, ID) round trip just for Fleetguard filter. I'm heading towards 100-110*F weather really soon.

All I can say ask some of the other members like Dripley is on his way to 400k miles.

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Frantz filters back when I got mine was a Toilet Paper filter. Now today toilet paper rolls are short in width and the seal ring doesn't cut into the edge of the roll to seal the end at the base. It now goes too deep and the oil bypasses in the core. That is the other problem the core size is varying in size you got to use sleeves to fill the void. So now the new owners sell cartridges but again now got to change it 2 times per oil run so I was every 5k miles change the Frantz filter and then 10k for full oil change. I didn't want to over run the main engine filter.

 

http://www.frantzfilters.com/

 

DSCF1722.JPGDSCF1723.JPGDSCF3327.JPGDSCF3328.JPG

 

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That's awesome lol. Kinda crazy, but still awesome. Can't wait for AH64 to chime in here, because now I'm interested in the Fleetguard LF9028 as well. Apparently it combines a bypass and a full flow into one. Probably way more than I need, but still I can't help but wanting the best lol. I'll probably end up just switching to the ELF7349. Sounds like the best bang for the buck.

Edited by leathermaneod
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I have run Rotella 15-40 since new with a little Delo 400 LE thrown in lately. Filter wise everything from Fram(dont say it yall) to Fleetgaurd. Engine health seems to be good though I have done no testing. Might blow tomorrow for all I know. 372k miles.

 

 

Edited by dripley
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i did the hole best filter thing for a while. then i got over myself when i did reg filters with "cheap" oil travellers from tractor supply at 39$ for a 5 gallon pale.  The lab results didn't change much at all. clean oil will help the engine last the longest.

i drain oil anywhere from 5-8K miles. i used the Lf9028 for a few years, now i use the DBL7349.

if i was to get an after market oil filter it'd be centrifuge type. way better then almost any media filter one can get.

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11 hours ago, dripley said:

I have run Rotella 15-40 since new with a little Delo 400 LE thrown in lately. Filter wise everything from Fram(dont say it yall) to Fleetgaurd. Engine health seems to be good though I have done no testing. Might blow tomorrow for all I know. 372k miles.

 

 

Won't blow. Truck wears out from metal fatigue. Then engine gets sold and wears out two more trucks.

Edited by JAG1
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10 hours ago, Killer223 said:

i did the hole best filter thing for a while. then i got over myself when i did reg filters with "cheap" oil travellers from tractor supply at 39$ for a 5 gallon pale.  The lab results didn't change much at all. clean oil will help the engine last the longest.

i drain oil anywhere from 5-8K miles. i used the Lf9028 for a few years, now i use the DBL7349.

if i was to get an after market oil filter it'd be centrifuge type. way better then almost any media filter one can get.

Who makes the DBL7349? 

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2 hours ago, JAG1 said:

Won't blow. Truck wears out from metal fatigue. Then engine gets sold and wears out two more trucks.

 

That's what CajFlynn did... The truck ended its life in a traffic accident at 1.3 MILLION miles. The engine got sold and lives on in a new truck body.

 

o0pbw6.jpg

 

20ggyva.jpg

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As i remember he ran Dino oil but would not know what filter. Not sure what OCI means:think:. I a sure someone will enlighten me. I dont believe he ever opened the engine.

 

I have add that I appreciate the research that our members have put in on filtration here. I have learned alot from them and do use filters they have come up with unless I am in need of something off the shelf.

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1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

That's what CajFlynn did... The truck ended its life in a traffic accident at 1.3 MILLION miles. The engine got sold and lives on in a new truck body.

 

o0pbw6.jpg

 

20ggyva.jpg

Dang.. With only 280K on my clock at the rate I'm going I ll be 98 years old when my odometer rolls over.

I think I need more long trips

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