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VP44 dead with 80 k miles?


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So, my truck has been driving okay, then out of nowhere, it starts to surge. buck and have no power.  I was about 6 miles from home, so I limp it home.  it idles okay, but any acceleration and it surges. sputters, etc.   Put it on the code reader, and the first one was P0216, VP44 timing, the next code, P0230, and then the companion code P1693.  along with P0521, P0460, P1693.  Dead VP44?! (Blue Chip) and I've only put abut 80k with a new Raptor lift pump.  My fuel gauge was not working, and the float level error code with almost no fuel pressure ~10 psi.

 

 

 

Edited by GSX455
Wrong lift pump
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So, I hooked up my DMM to the alternator diodes but how do you check for AC noise?   :think:

I did clear the codes, and I replaced the filter about 3 months, 3 000 miles ago. 

The P0216 code went away , but the P0230 stayed, and the sputtering came back..  I can live with a transfer pump change. Raptor 150, with about 50,000 miles on it.  Does this seem a reasonable liefetime for an Airdog?  Is there a better option?

 

Thanks for the help.

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VP was designed for the old non ULSD with higher lubricity. The vp stays cooler with fuel pressures over 14 all the time and adding 2 stroke oil to every tank. Do not drive it if F/P is not over 14.:thumb1:

 

How come you guys always leave it up to me to tell this to these poor guys with VP woes?:kick:

 

Ought to make it a prerequisite that you can't join this club unless you have good fuel pressure, a half inch line kit, fuel pressure gauge and 2 stroke bottles laying all over the yard:thumbup2:

Edited by JAG1
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11 hours ago, GSX455 said:

So, I hooked up my DMM to the alternator diodes but how do you check for AC noise?   :think:

I did clear the codes, and I replaced the filter about 3 months, 3 000 miles ago. 

The P0216 code went away , but the P0230 stayed, and the sputtering came back..  I can live with a transfer pump change. Raptor 150, with about 50,000 miles on it.  Does this seem a reasonable liefetime for an Airdog?  Is there a better option?

 

Thanks for the help.

In your original post you mentioned a FASS system and here a AD. Which do you have on the truck now? The pressure can be raised on both style pumps if needed. As JAG said the VP loves good fuel pressure and some extra lube.

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 like when the question was asked , 'what are they doing with all the lubricity they stole from our fuel?...... someone said years ago they use it to check your prostate.

Edited by JAG1
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I remember about the ULSD, which is why I run the PS Kleen Diesel additive which has lubricant, which was a little cheaper than 2 stroke oil per tank, but if the experts say 2 stroke is the way, to go, I'll switch over.  Yep, got the Vulcan big line kit with the AirDog Raptor 150.   Back to the P0320; The Raptor 150 did not cycle after I bumped the starter.  I got an open circuit when the pump was installed on the vehicle, grounded to the block, and checked either lead.  I took off the Raptor 150, and checked the leads and it failed a continuity check.  I just hope the VP44 wasn't too damaged.  it sputtered the last 2 miles to the house.  

 

so, the  FASS DDRP is a good choice? the titanium series looked nice, until I saw the price tag. :broke:

 

Again, thanks for all the helpful comments, this site rocks, don't know what I would do without the help I get here.  

 

 

 

 

 

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10 minutes ago, GSX455 said:

I run the PS Kleen Diesel additive which has lubricant

 

Not much lubricant. PS is only +61 point gain vs 2 cycle +162 point gain.

 

13 minutes ago, GSX455 said:

Back to the P0320; The Raptor 150 did not cycle after I bumped the starter.

 

 

I think you mean P0230 code right? If so then its an electrical issue from the ECM to the fuel pump relay trigger. 

 

15 minutes ago, GSX455 said:

I took off the Raptor 150, and checked the leads and it failed a continuity check.

 

So the pump has internal issues I'm going to bet that diesel fuel leaked into the motor wiping out the brushes. Raptor pumps are known for this problem. 

 

16 minutes ago, GSX455 said:

FASS DDRP is a good choice?

 

I personally don't like any DDRP styled pump. This implies that you are going to be using stock location and stock plumbing. Now if you the relocation kit with it then you are OK... Of course this just added more to the price tag.

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I do it an inexpensive way by having the AD 100 relocated on the frame, 1/2'' lines and ball shut off valves either side of the pump and big filter. Then I carry an extra factory pump in the tool box if I need it to get home. The ball valves allow me to change the pump or the filter without loosing prime or draining fuel all over me changing things out.

 

I hope you get it fixed real good and I know the 2stroke is better for it.

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Thanks for all the suggestions,:thumb1:  New DDRP installed, FP gauge with isolator installed, I used a 10 weight oil, no antifreeze, but it seems to be working, 18 psi, about where I've heard recommended.  I kept my Vulcan big line kit from the lift pump to the filter, but went with banjo fittings from the filter to the VP to tie in the FP gauge.  

And a bottle of 2 stroke oil is in there.  I have the marine grade 2 stroke oil, which has corrosion inhibitors, and is synthetic.    

 

 

 

   

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How is your pressure drop at WOT. Thats the other important number. You are trying for 14# or higher. As far as the 2 stroke, nothing fancy needed there. Ash less is the key. Many of us run the Super Tech TCW-3 from Wal mart. It fits the bill just fine.

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7 hours ago, dripley said:

How is your pressure drop at WOT. Thats the other important number. You are trying for 14# or higher. As far as the 2 stroke, nothing fancy needed there. Ash less is the key. Many of us run the Super Tech TCW-3 from Wal mart. It fits the bill just fine.

So, is their any disadvantages of using synthetic 2 stroke such as the Pennzoil synthetic outboard oil? or is it more of a cost issue?

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