Quadzilla V2 Custom Tunes

[Mopar1973Man]

8 hours ago, Alf808 said:

Can anyone tell me why my 200hp injectors don’t smoke.

 

Quadzilla is a clean tuner. We are consuming all the fuel and turning into power. Old canned tunes like Edge Comp or Edge Juice worked good with stock injectors but couldn't be cleaned up because of lack of timing control and fuel control. Quadzilla you can clean up 90% of the smoke with a good tune consuming all the fuel. 

 

7 hours ago, Alf808 said:

Dosnt wiretap give u the most fuel u can get,Mind explaining why u wouldn’t want wire tap in a performance tune?

 

Towing reasons. So I'm running tapped as a daily driver (level 4-7) but when I hitch up a trailer I turn down to level 3 which is strictly CANBus and then the EGT's are totally under control. Another reason is when road surface is slick be it ice or mud you can cut your power to prevent shocking the tires which might spin. So I would still tap the wire but use the iQuad app to control when you use the wiretap.

 

It gets deeper. You can set how much TPS signal it takes to trigger wiretap. Then you can set how much boost is required to trip the wiretap. You can set how much wiretap to start with percentage number. Then how far up the boost scale to reach 100%. So you have full control over the wiretap and even my tune I can tune out the majority of the smoke.

[cumminsVP2001]

7 hours ago, notlimah said:

Not saying I wouldn’t, just seemed like that tune had the wiretap come on almost instantly, and with that big of injectors just seemed like it would smoke pretty bad down low with all the fuel even with the bigger turbo.

 

Like I mentioned, not knockin it, just curious if my assumptions are right or wrong.

actually just driving around town and even cruising at 65 my psi doesnt get above 5 for the most part. and im still playing with the tune.

[Mopar1973Man]

5 minutes ago, cumminsVP2001 said:

actually just driving around town and even cruising at 65 my psi doesnt get above 5 for the most part. and im still playing with the tune.

 

Just about right. At 65 MPH I'm typically about 2-3 PSI on flat ground. 

 

While your building your tune you want to keep an eye on the engine load. The more you can drop engine load the less fuel your burning. When you find a good timing you notice EGT's are lower and so is the engine load. Now the trick is when you drop cruise timing you want just enough retard timing to kick the boost back up to build and pull up the power and then get you back to the cruise timing quickly. 

Edited June 7, 2018 by Mopar1973Man

[cumminsVP2001]

thats another question i kind of had. my turbo (from my mechanical gauge and the v2) only show 1-2 psi cruising at 60-70mph. Its not a big turbo by any means and there isnt a boost leak. I can get a 60+psi spike and hold 50-55psi at WOT, but unless you get on it pretty decent it stays around 0-2psi in any dd condition

Just now, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Just about right. At 65 MPH I'm typically about 2-3 PSI on flat ground. 

 

While your building your tune you want to keep an eye on the engine load. The more you can drop engine load the less fuel your burning. When you find a good timing you notice EGT's are lower and so is the engine load. Now the trick is when you drop cruise timing you want just enough retard timing to kick the boost back up to build and pull up the power and then get you back to the cruise timing quickly. 

yes its going to take alot of playing around. its either been raining or too stupid hot for me to want to do anything but sit in the AC. hopefully this weekend holds out and i can get some data logging done and report back!

[Mopar1973Man]

About like myself my Hybrid 35/40 turbo spikes out at 45 PSI tops and then settles at about 40-42 PSI at WOT throttle wire tapped. Now CANBus only its only about 32 PSI tops. In any case the cruise pressure is really low like I said about 2-3 PSI on flat ground. 

 

A couple of screen shots. No I don't display boost being 2002 for some reason are off. I use my ISSPro gauges more. 

[cumminsVP2001]

that makes me feel better. never worried too much about it. I always thought my gauge was off, but now the v2 confirms the same readings. I just thought it would build more boost in normal driving conditions and cruise. my other 2001 (all stock) is at 8-10psi at 60-65mph. Obviously i know thats a much smaller turbo but its also on stock fuel. 

[Mopar1973Man]

5 minutes ago, cumminsVP2001 said:

I just thought it would build more boost in normal driving conditions and cruise.

 

More advanced timing, lower boost. More retarded timing high boost.

 

6 minutes ago, cumminsVP2001 said:

my other 2001 (all stock) is at 8-10psi at 60-65mph. Obviously i know thats a much smaller turbo but its also on stock fuel. 

 

Not the fuel in this cases. Stock ECM tune is heavily retarded hence the high boost pressure. 

[cumminsVP2001]

8 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

More advanced timing, lower boost. More retarded timing high boost.

 

 

Not the fuel in this cases. Stock ECM tune is heavily retarded hence the high boost pressure. 

i know it has been said in this thread before but what does the smarty set timing at at cruise? i just got the v2 a week ago and before that i always ran smarty on sw9 with my tst pm3 off until i wanted to boogie, then flipped it on. Just DD with my smart it was the same low boost situation. 

[Mopar1973Man]

5 minutes ago, cumminsVP2001 said:

what does the smarty set timing at at cruise?

 

If I remember right what @Me78569 said was 19 degrees.

[cumminsVP2001]

14 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

If I remember right what @Me78569 said was 19 degrees.

i thought it was 19-20. anxious to see all where timing is at at cruise now

[Raffron]

I am still heaving issues with my v.2 reading 0 psi to 10 max.... but my mechanical gauge reads 5 psi cruise 35psi wot... cleaned all grounds.... about to get new batterys. 1 is loosing a cell. Drops to 11.9 over weekend. Any other ideas other than rewiring from ecm to map? Bench tested map. Still good. 5volts good... 

[Mopar1973Man]

Just ohm test from the ECM to the MAP and check for 0 ohms. If so the wiring is fine. One wire is ground, one wire is signal and the last one is +5V. So you can test for good 5V and ground at the plug. Beyond that, it means either the Quadzilla is to blame or the MAP sensor. 

11 minutes ago, cumminsVP2001 said:

i thought it was 19-20. anxious to see all where timing is at at cruise now

 

Anywhere you want. I kind of build upside down looking at my cruise timing I want first. The built the performance curve from that offset. Then deepen the performance side by using the load timing offset. So this allows for fairly high-performance timing but allows you to cruise under light performance loads and get enough retarding to build boost. Rather hard to explain... If you want you can call me some time I can explain how this is done.

[cumminsVP2001]

5 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

 

Anywhere you want. I kind of build upside down looking at my cruise timing I want first. The built the performance curve from that offset. Then deepen the performance side by using the load timing offset. So this allows for fairly high-performance timing but allows you to cruise under light performance loads and get enough retarding to build boost. Rather hard to explain... If you want you can call me some time I can explain how this is done.

im pretty sure i get what your saying. Like i said before, hopefully this weekend, or maybe even today or tomorrow if it stops raining ill have some info to bring everyone to fine tune this thing, 

[rogerash0]

Have the canbus fuel readout on screen when your crusing and I bet you will see low fueling #s that would cause low boost at cruise. You need fuel to make boost. Less fuel used at cruise better mpgs. Engine load is the fueling # / 4095 , so it's a function of the same thing. I did the math real quick whilst driving and saw that it was spot on..

[Me78569]

9 hours ago, Alf808 said:

 

Maybe a dumb question but...So if it’s a performance tune why wouldn’t you use wire tap?  Dosnt wiretap give u the most fuel u can get,Mind explaining why u wouldn’t want wire tap in a performance tune?

Keep in mind that wiretap is only ~%25 of your total duration.  canbus fueling makes up %75 of the fueling.  

 

Stock = 235 hp

stock + canbus = 300 hp

stock + canubs + wiretap = 380ish hp. 

 

so most of your power comes from canbus fueling 

35 minutes ago, Raffron said:

I am still heaving issues with my v.2 reading 0 psi to 10 max.... but my mechanical gauge reads 5 psi cruise 35psi wot... cleaned all grounds.... about to get new batterys. 1 is loosing a cell. Drops to 11.9 over weekend. Any other ideas other than rewiring from ecm to map? Bench tested map. Still good. 5volts good... 

the quadzilla is reading map values from the ecm until 16 psi.  so if you are never seeing above 10 psi then your ecm is never seeing above 10 psi.  

 

You either have a bad map or bad wiring to and from the map.  That or your Quad is setup internally via jumper to be a 01-02 when your truckis 98.5-00 or the other way around.

1 hour ago, cumminsVP2001 said:

i know it has been said in this thread before but what does the smarty set timing at at cruise? i just got the v2 a week ago and before that i always ran smarty on sw9 with my tst pm3 off until i wanted to boogie, then flipped it on. Just DD with my smart it was the same low boost situation. 

running on sw9 you would actually have a cruise timing amount of ~17* as the sw9 shoves so much fuel near idle that you only need limited tps input to move down the road.  

 

This however means that you never get to higher timing at cruise because you are so far down in the timing map. 

 

 

Edited June 7, 2018 by Me78569

[Quadzilla Power]

46 minutes ago, Raffron said:

I am still heaving issues with my v.2 reading 0 psi to 10 max.... but my mechanical gauge reads 5 psi cruise 35psi wot... cleaned all grounds.... about to get new batterys. 1 is loosing a cell. Drops to 11.9 over weekend. Any other ideas other than rewiring from ecm to map? Bench tested map. Still good. 5volts good... 

Like @Me78569 said above. Its not a bad idea to double check your jumper settings in the Adrenaline module. 

Here is a guide to how to set the jumper (and a guide to what else you need to buy if buying used): http://quadzillapower.com/after-market-adrenaline/#VP44Trucks

 

[Mopar1973Man]

This is one of the few reason I'm not a fan of Smarty S03. The Smarty was designed around stock injectors and not stacking. Now with the extra fuel you'll need more timing. As @Me78569 documented in the logs you really can adjust the timing very much. Here is where the Smarty Touch would fill the void but for the price for just a 60 HP tuner it way better to look towards a Quadzilla.

[cumminsVP2001]

2 hours ago, Me78569 said:

 

running on sw9 you would actually have a cruise timing amount of ~17* as the sw9 shoves so much fuel near idle that you only need limited tps input to move down the road.  

 

 

It definitely made the throttle touchy, couldn't even take off normal from a stoplight on wet roads without spinning out. It was definitely different when I went to the V2. I actually have to give me then 5% throttle to get going

[Me78569]

yep, most complain coming to V2 tuning because they are used to the butt dyno telling them "WOW I just touch the throttle and it jumps out of it's own skin"    

 

what people don't consider is that on SW9 the truck might jump out of it's skin at %20 throttle input leaving a light, but %30 throttle input is the same as %20 input.   Same at %50 throttle.   If you just max duration at %20 input then your throttle range leaving a light is really just 0-20% because anything over %20 throttle input is still just %100 duration.   TPs is the orange line duration is the bar's.  %23 throttle nearly maxes duration, going to %34 throttle doesn't really increase duration as it is flat lined.

 

 

The same " jump out of it's own skin" is possible with the Quadzilla, but you have to use %100 throttle if you want %100 duration lol.   I gotta remind people to "use the throttle pedal for what it was designed for"

Edited June 7, 2018 by Me78569

[cumminsVP2001]

Ya I totally understand. First few take offs took some getting used to, but when I went wot I knew it hasn't lost anything, but gained. I looked over at my fiance after the first pull and she said, "that felt faster than normal"

Any of you guys have trouble with hitting the rev limiter? First time going from a stop to wot it took off really slow like I mentioned before but once it built some boost and took off the tires lit up and it bounced off the limiter a few times before I could let off. Read that this is just because the tires spun loose and rpm shot up too fast for the transmission to react