Bleeding Air from Fuel with No Start

[BigPimpin]

I've looked up all I could about this, but I really need some quick info.

 

I replaced my fuel line from the filter to the VP44 with an upgraded fuel line. After the install, I tried bleeding the lines by cracking the number 1, 3, and 4 injector connections. I got fuel to the number 3 and 4 lines after a couple of bumps of the key, but number 1 won't bleed fuel no matter how many times I try. The truck won't start.

 

Could I be doing something wrong, or is this a sign of a bad VP44? Any suggestions?

[Me78569]

how long are you cranking for?  

 

How much fuel are you getting out of 3 and 4?

[BigPimpin]

I've just been cranking for about 10 seconds. I did it a few times, but nothing. I didn't want to burn the starter or anything.

 

I'm also getting 12psi of fuel to the VP44. If it makes any difference, the needle valve has a small leak at the connection.

[JAG1]

You need to fill up the factory filter first then should only have to loosen a couple injectors and crank till it starts. It will run rough but keep it running till you close the two you cracked open.

[Me78569]

It takes me a good 30 seconds of cranking to bleed mine fully.

[dripley]

If you are getting fuel to 3 and 4 close them. Might be the first cylinders getting fuel. Once it kicks off the pump will get fuel to the others. Like mentioned above it will run rough until they all start getting fuel.

[BigPimpin]

I've been out there cranking on it. Every now and then it almost turns over, but so far it hasn't fired.

 

Just killed the battery doing it, and now I'm about to try to jump it.

 

I can't tell how much fuel was coming out of 3 and 4 because they weren't fully unscrewed/disconnected, but it seemed like a good drip. Not spraying out, but some good air bubbles and a steady drip.

[Mopar1973Man]

I just had a Dodge that didn't want to fire. So we pull the the intercooler tube from the intake horn. Then disconnected the grid heaters are the relays. Then had a second man crank the engine and very quick burst of starting fluid at the intake horn from a distance so its just a light cloud being inhaled. Started right up. 

 

Again. I really do mean very small burst of spray. Doesn't take very much to get it to light off. Do not spray into the horn then crank. Do not spray large amounts either. 

 

I've seen even my truck get this way and refuse to prime up a few times and this is all I do to get it light off.

[Dieselfuture]

Unplug any programmers quad, edge, etc. If you have any, Before you jump it. 

[Hawkez]

I once had a similar issue and the fellas on here suggested that I wasn't loosening the connections enough.  So, I loosened the nuts off a few more turns and it fired up on the next round of cranking. 

[Mopar1973Man]

I normally slide the entire line nut out of the way so I can see the fuel spray from the driver seat. This way a single man doing the job can see if its pumping or not.

[BigPimpin]

Update.

 

After taking both batteries to get charged, I got everything connected/secured. No leaks that I can tell, and I got her to fire up only after a few cranks with bleeding only 3 and 4 injectors.

 

I can't believe how much trouble I had with this fuel line install. I do want to thank everyone for all the help and suggestions. That really helps when I have no one to ask about these things in my day to day.

 

I got my fuel pressure sensor from the Adrenaline hooked up, and I noticed that I was only running 12psi at idle and down to about 8psi at wot. I always assumed it was running at 15psi at idle because that's what the Raptor is supposed to be set at from the factory. I adjusted it up to 17 at idle now and it drops to 12 at wot. The Adrenaline flashes yellow when it gets below 10 I think.

 

Anyway, I noticed two things about the Adrenaline. One, the boost sensor flashes yellow when it gets above 20psi even though I have the settings set to defuel at 35psi. And Two, when I have it set on power level 10 and I'm accelerating hard, it automatically drops down to level 5 or 6 for a second and then goes back to 10 once I reach speed or back off. Just thought I'd mention that in case someone could explain why those two things are happening.

 

Thanks again for all the help and support.

[dripley]

I cant help with the Adrenaline, but it would be good to turn your FP up a little more. It is best to see 14psi minimum at WOT. That keeps max fuel flowing thru the pump for cooling. The fuel also lubes the pumps. A lot of us here run two cycle oil to help the ULSD with that. Your VP will appreciate it.

[JAG1]

Yes too small of fuel lines will help cook the VP. It would be like sitting on a hot day trying to drink your milkshake thru a WD-40 spray straw. Lol

 

All kidding aside, a sure sign of needing the 1/2 inch line kit is the fuel pressure dropping below 14. With hauling heavy going up hills makes it nessesary. Call Vulcan Performance, Eric is a great guy to deal with.

 

1 Qt. of two stroke in every tank helps turn the fuel back to fuel oil. What the VP was designed for. 

Edited December 23, 2016 by JAG1