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Joining the 300K plus mile club


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After 16 years I think it’s time to breath some new life into the old Cummins and get it ready for the next milestone. And do it without spending a fortune 

On the real short list , like hopefully in the next few weeks I’ve decided to

1. Install RV 275 injectors ( I know a little late on the originals)

2. Quad XZT or edge Ez, I havnt decided yet, but with my mild tranny I got to take it easy.

3 finish the trans. Lock up switch 

 Then on the long list which will just keep growing is

1 figure out if I want to spend the big bucks to rebuild 47re or just replace with a manual.

2. Exhaust brake ( I think I would be much happier with a manual )

3. Interior is in dire need of attention, need new dash, seats and replace insulation including under hood.

 

Any thoughts or do,s or dont’s ? 

C670AF83-1463-4A63-9594-1B88EF2DC121.jpeg

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  • Owner

I'm almost 326k miles on the 2002... I think I cross that line today when I get fuel in Ontario, OR.

 

12 hours ago, 01cummins4ever said:

1. Install RV 275 injectors ( I know a little late on the originals)

RV275 to +75HP you can easily tune out the smoke with most any tuner...

 

12 hours ago, 01cummins4ever said:

2. Quad XZT or edge Ez, I havnt decided yet, but with my mild tranny I got to take it easy.

Personally, I would still jump up to the Quadzilla Adrenaline. Way better control of fuel and timing even if you don't tap the wire. Since I replace my VP44 I've not tapped my wire for nearly a full year now. Getting itchy though... Gotta get that plate back on.

 

12 hours ago, 01cummins4ever said:

2. Exhaust brake ( I think I would be much happier with a manual )

Yeah that is true. Exhaust brake work much better on a manual than autos. Typically only 3rd and 4th lock up will work. You can modify the transmission to do 2nd gear as well.

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14 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Yeah that is true. Exhaust brake work much better on a manual than autos. Typically only 3rd and 4th lock up will work. You can modify the transmission to do 2nd gear as well.

 

Mine will lock in any gear.  Just so ya know.  =)

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9 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Your transmission isn't normal either... :whistle:

 

Yeah you're right.  My wife hates it which makes me happy since she doesn't want to drive it.  Part of it is it does not shift as smoothly as her Durango and I lock it in second and unlock to shift third while timing it so it doesn't hit hard but sometimes fail to do that as well as I could while being harassed by her.  LOL  If I drove it like her it is pretty smooth I think but of course she does not.

 

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23 hours ago, CTcummins24V said:

With injectors and a box, you may want to swap the hy35 for an hx35. HY35 can’t keep up on the “top end”. I’m back to an RV275 size injector and 65hp box, great set up.

I wil have to see how the hy35 performs, I thought the boost fooler was supposed to help by letting it build more boost, 

21 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

 

Personally, I would still jump up to the Quadzilla Adrenaline. Way better control of fuel and timing even if you don't tap the wire. Since I replace my VP44 I've not tapped my wire for nearly a full year now. Getting itchy though... Gotta get that plate back on.

Yes, but for the time being I m just going to keep it simple, I just want to push a button and go.  In the future when I redo the tranny again I may be adding even more power and then step up to the Adrenaline

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4 hours ago, 01cummins4ever said:

I wil have to see how the hy35 performs, I thought the boost fooler was supposed to help by letting it build more boost, 

Yes, but for the time being I m just going to keep it simple, I just want to push a button and go.  In the future when I redo the tranny again I may be adding even more power and then step up to the Adrenaline

May have to j hook the HY35 to get more boost.

https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-11698-bd-turbo-x-hook-01-02-59l-cummins-auto-trans.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhPPvwbCH2AIVwrgbCh1ZuQhxEAQYASABEgLHi_D_BwE

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  • Owner

I wouldn't bother with HY35 turbo too much. Yeah, the J hook can be installed but you have to limit your boost to 30-32 PSI because of the small 9cm2 housing on the exhaust side. Even HX35 would be a much better turbo allowing 35 PSI and 12cm2 exhaust housing. Better EGT's on the bigger housing but slightly more lag time.

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  • 6 months later...

well a little behind but I finally got the rv275 injectors installed along with a quad xzt, I should have done this years ago but the performance increase is very noticeable and smoother idling, I did adjust the valves while I was in their and for the second time since truck was new and they were still within spec but reset them anyway. I cheaped out and just done a turn buckle mod on the hy35 for now, although I am getting 30 psi. boost I see my egt climbing up to 1200 real quick on heavy acceleration, I haven't got a chance to hook up a good load to the truck yet but I assume the egt issue may prompt me to upgrade to a hx35 or maybe a he351?

 

anyway got to tackle other issues like getting the lock up switch installed and cleaning that old used and abused carpet. I basically had to rip out what was left on the upper fire wall insulation before I took the valve cover off for fear of crap falling into the engine,

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1 hour ago, 01cummins4ever said:

I basically had to rip out what was left on the upper fire wall insulation before I took the valve cover off for fear of crap falling into the engine,

Use a big garbage bag to drape over valve cover in the back then lift it up under windshield wipers, before you take cover off.

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31 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Use a big garbage bag to drape over valve cover in the back then lift it up under windshield wipers, before you take cover off.

 

Great advice here, except don’t forgot to clear the bag of the valve cover when reinstalling and then tighten everything down only to find the bag inside the valve cover. I’ve heard of it happening, not sure from who though.... :whistle:

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26 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I did the next easier thing. I ripped all that stupid noise matting out of the truck. Mine was half mouse eaten, sagging, etc. Without that mat there it easy peasy to pull the valve cover and no issues with dirt and crud falling in. 

That’s exactly what I did, mine was in the same shape, it looks a lot better with it gone anyway, 

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I used a piece of 12" wide aluminum flashing. Put a bend in it to go down the fire wall and just set it on the valve cover, lifted it and pulled it right out. The flashing just stayed there as the valve cover slid out.

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