So I made a decision

[Dieselfuture]

8 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Like myself I'm not in it for the HP and TQ but efficiency and MPG

Here is an idea, I know you're not going to drive a car, how about a suburban with a 4bt in it. Or even drop one in your 96. I've always wanted a suburban with a 4bt just as a grocery getter 

But for more efficiency it should be something smaller but yet safe and comfortable. 

[IBMobile]

Used air intake elbow in Ebay $40 and up.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=used+air+duct+2000+Dodge+Ram+2500+Base+5.9L&_vxp=mtr&_osacat=33549&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X94-02+Air+Intake++Elbow+%2C+Box+Cleaner+Pipe+Tube.TRS0&_nkw=94-02+Air+Intake++Elbow+%2C+Box+Cleaner+Pipe+Tube&_sacat=33549

 

                 Below is a washable filter      verses      a BHAF from Amazon, Napa # 6637,  $50. 

 

 

I used about a 6" length of 4" diameter white leach field pipe, where there were no holes in it, to attach the air filter to the air intake elbow. 

[Marcus2000monster]

1 hour ago, IBMobile said:

Used air intake elbow in Ebay $40 and up.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=used+air+duct+2000+Dodge+Ram+2500+Base+5.9L&_vxp=mtr&_osacat=33549&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X94-02+Air+Intake++Elbow+%2C+Box+Cleaner+Pipe+Tube.TRS0&_nkw=94-02+Air+Intake++Elbow+%2C+Box+Cleaner+Pipe+Tube&_sacat=33549

 

                 Below is a washable filter      verses      a BHAF from Amazon, Napa # 6637,  $50. 

 

 

I used about a 6" length of 4" diameter white leach field pipe, where there were no holes in it, to attach the air filter to the air intake elbow. 

Just ordered one earlier. 

I Like he idea of timing and fueling control but I’m worried that if I have a wire tap tuner I’m gonna end up tapping the pump. 

[dripley]

1 hour ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Just ordered one earlier. 

I Like he idea of timing and fueling control but I’m worried that if I have a wire tap tuner I’m gonna end up tapping the pump. 

Yes. The curiosity will get ya.

[Dieselfuture]

@Marcus2000monster if I was going to spend money on a tuner few years back I would get an edge. I bought my quad about 7-8 years ago I think and chose it over edge because of more power and the whole hot unlock, I didn't like how they wanted more money for that, made them look bad in my mind. So fast forward I'm now glad I went with qwadzila Adrinalin because my man Nick took the time to make it what it is today .

Long story short if you're going to spend money get an adrenaline and if you catch yourself trying to wiretap it slap yourself until you get the right mods. 

Edited January 10, 2018 by Dieselfuture
Smart phone is not that smart

[Marcus2000monster]

 

@Dieselfuture I think you are right! I think that’s what I’m going to end up doing. I may even connect wiretap until I get injectors and then unhook it.

 

 

I’m even thinking i

mag just leave it hooked up and just get some 50 hp or rv275 injectors. The main reason for injectors is fuel economy not power. 

Another good reason for the Adrenaline is because it also has guages. By the time I buy a can bus and nice set of gauges I’ll be over 600$. It’s agood thing I have you guys to help me

make choices or I would be in trouble already! 

[dripley]

4 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

The main reason for injectors is fuel economy not power. 

I have heard that one before. They go hand in hand with proper control on the right foot.

[Marcus2000monster]

Just now, dripley said:

I have heard that one before. They go hand in hand with proper control on the right foot.

Not exactly sure what your saying? 

[Dieselfuture]

You don't have to unhook it just run it on level 3, which is canbus only. You'll be fine with 75hp injectors and hx35 and still can get good economy and power when needed.

Dripley means if you get bigger injectors you can have both depending on how you use your right foot, tuning will be part of it too.

[Royal Squire]

I think he’s saying no matter what parts you have if you hot rod it you will have poor mileage 

[dripley]

1 minute ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Not exactly sure what your saying? 

The injectors you speak will give some added mpg unless your right foot is glued to the floor. And just to add when I added the Banks tuner, 75 hp and tapped, to mine at 100k I was all stock also. Our only difference is 4:10 vs 3:55. I changed my clutch around 255k and it still had some on it. Never slipped it. 

[Marcus2000monster]

3 minutes ago, Royal Squire said:

I think he’s saying no matter what parts you have if you hot rod it you will have poor mileage 

Makes total sense haha! True saying that is! I’m not out for more than 400 maybe 425 horsepower. Calculating Adrenaline and 75 sticks it comes too 470 which will prob end up being about 450. Still plenty of power for me. Mpg matters FAR more to me than loads of power. @Mopar1973Man have you ever dynoed your truck? Curious what your running for hp since our setup will be somewhat the same with the obvious exception of turbos... 

 

2 minutes ago, dripley said:

The injectors you speak will give some added mpg unless your right foot is glued to the floor. And just to add when I added the Banks tuner, 75 hp and tapped, to mine at 100k I was all stock also. Our only difference is 4:10 vs 3:55. I changed my clutch around 255k and it still had some on it. Never slipped it. 

Gotcha now... btw what banks Tuner do you have? 

I’ve been over his a hundred times but I’ve still not made up my mind. But will a Ddrp with spring upgrade big line and banjo replacements easily support 400 hp?

[Tractorman]

6 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

..., how about a suburban with a 4bt in it.

 

I did do something similar back in 1988.  I wanted a pickup or a van with a diesel engine and I became very frustrated at the choices available at the time.  Choices like a heavy V8 engine, no turbocharger (really!), three speed transmission, all accompanied with lots of noise, smoke, high rpms and … no power!  Just what I wanted.

So, in the spring of 1988 I purchased a new Cummins 4BTA engine kit and put the engine in my 1984 Ford E150 van with a factory 4 spd manual overdrive transmission.  I drove with this configuration for 87,000 miles (by then I had 212,000 on the vehicle).  I lived in Leadville, Colorado (elevation 10,000 ft) at the time.  With the Cummins engine, I could drive up a 7% grade at 65 mph in overdrive, and still accelerate! And no smoke!   I was a happy camper. 

The van had two factory fuel tanks, one 18 gallons, the other 22 gallons.  On one occasion after driving back and forth from home to work for a week (50 mile round trip) and then going on vacation traveling on top of the Grand Mesa pulling a small trailer with two ATV’s, I drove just over 1,000 miles without refueling.  I netted just over 29 mpg on that fill-up.

In 1991 I bought a new Ford F150 Extended Cab 4X4 and immediately swapped in the Cummins engine.  Everybody thought I was nuts.  I drove that truck for over 200,000 miles and then sold it.  I kept fuel logs for over 100,000 miles of driving.  The overall fuel mileage for the first 100,000 miles ( which including all driving and idling) averaged out to 22.5 mpg. 

It was a great engine!

My next vehicle was a new 1999 Dodge with a Cummins.  Somebody finally did it right!

- John

[JAG1]

Nice read John. Thanks, I enjoyed that.

[Dieselfuture]

8 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Mpg matters FAR more to me than loads of power

You can have great MPG with 600hp truck. It's all on how you'll drive it and aerodynamics ( lifted trucks with big tires are no good for MPG ), and big tires themselves are not good unless you're off-roading. I'm using 285 70 17 because I like the way it looks and I know I'm sacrificing at least 2 mpg doing so. I used to think truck toppers were ***, but now I love it, everything stays dry and out of the weather inside and I believe I gained about 1 MPG by putting it on. I used a couple of canoe hoists in the garage and bolted 4 boat tie-downs to the topper one on each corner, I can take topper off by myself in about 10 minutes.  luckily people still think Toppers are *** because you can get them for next to nothing, I got mine for nothing just had to spend few bucks on paint. My topper is actually off a Chevy 80s era.

Edit.

You do have 4:10s so running bigger tires would be okay for you and still retain your MPG, I wouldn't go more than 285/75/17 personally, assuming you're using 17s

 

@Tractorman you're my hero 

 

Edited January 10, 2018 by Dieselfuture

[Marcus2000monster]

25 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

You can have great MPG with 600hp truck. It's all on how you'll drive it and aerodynamics ( lifted trucks with big tires are no good for MPG ), and big tires themselves are not good unless you're off-roading. I'm using 285 70 17 because I like the way it looks and I know I'm sacrificing at least 2 mpg doing so. I used to think truck toppers were ***, but now I love it, everything stays dry and out of the weather inside and I believe I gained about 1 MPG by putting it on. I used a couple of canoe hoists in the garage and bolted 4 boat tie-downs to the topper one on each corner, I can take topper off by myself in about 10 minutes.  luckily people still think Toppers are *** because you can get them for next to nothing, I got mine for nothing just had to spend few bucks on paint. My topper is actually off a Chevy 80s era.

Edit.

You do have 4:10s so running bigger tires would be okay for you and still retain your MPG, I wouldn't go more than 285/75/17 personally, assuming you're using 17s

 

@Tractorman you're my hero 

 

I have 285/75/16s right now. 

[Dieselfuture]

13 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I have 285/75/16s right now. 

You would gain 1" (tall) if you went to 17s. 16=32.83 17=33.83

Anything bigger will ruin front end much quicker imo. Even using 285/70/17 that I have now is not easy on front end but I just can't get pass how retarded truck looks on smaller tires. I wish dodge didn't dictate to Dana what they wanted, they did fine without them, Dana 60 front used to be considered a tough front end especially on ford's then dodge stepped in 

 I did have 35s on my 12valve with 4:10s and I liked it. But didn't keep it long enough to tell you anything more.

[Marcus2000monster]

Just now, Dieselfuture said:

You would gain 1" (tall) if you went to 17s. 16=32.83 17=33.83

Anything bigger will ruin front end much quicker imo. Even using 285/70/17 that I have now is not easy on front end but I just can't get pass how retarded truck looks on smaller tires. I wish dodge didn't dictate to Dana what they wanted, they did fine without them, Dana 60 front used to be considered a tough front end especially on ford's then dodge stepped in 

 I did have 35s on my 12valve with 4:10s and I liked it. But didn't keep it long enough to tell you anything more.

I have thought about getting some 4th gen wheels but I currently don’t have the money!  I think my next tires are going to be 315/75/16s will these kill mpg much more than 285s?

[Dieselfuture]

Probably not much more, maybe a little .5 mpg come out 34.6" close to 35s, I don't think 35s are truly that anyway. Be a good match for 4:10 just more stress on front end. Beef it up some as things wear. I didn't have my truck lifted when I put 35s, they did rub on control arms. 

[Marcus2000monster]

5 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Probably not much more, maybe a little .5 mpg come out 34.6" close to 35s, I don't think 35s are truly that anyway. Be a good match for 4:10 just more stress on front end. Beef it up some as things wear. I didn't have my truck lifted when I put 35s, they did rub on control arms. 

What all is needed for beefing it up? I have a bd stabilizer but I’m sure I’ll need more than that. 

 

What at do you think about the Fass DDRP?