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Newbie; Big Motor Tuning; Black Smoke Questions


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2 minutes ago, int3man said:

O.K.  So now I need to learn what the numbers mean on Turbos.  Is there a Turbo 101 anywhere?

 

I'm going to guess that the first number is the Inlet Diameter and the Second is the Exit diameter for the exhaust, but the third might be blade count?  I don't have a clue.

 

Thanks

Michael

 

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I keep seeing that 62/68/12 combo which I fell would be a much better match than my current 60/60/12. Since I'm always on a limited and tight budget it makes it tough to jump into a fresh turbo. So I guess I can dream about it. 

 

Basically in a nutshell. 62/68/12

 

62mm compressor Inducer wheel diameter.

68mm turbine exducer wheel diameter.

12cm2 exhaust housing cross sectional area

 

There is much more than that being the exducer and the inducer sizes of the wheels. But in a quickie that what the 3 numbers mean. 

 

You've got the first two numbers correct. 

 

The third number is the cross sectional area of of the exhaust housing. The larger this number, the better it will flow, but the slower it will spool. The smaller this number, the worse it will flow, but the faster it will spool. 

 

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4 hours ago, SavageTusk said:

So which is really better suited, a single 62/68/12 or a compound setup HT3B with the existing hx35?

Depends on the supporting mods. If you have a fairly stock engine I would suggest the single 62/68/12 turbo. Now if you got the ARP studs, possibly fire-ring head then twins would be a good place to jump to. Being you can tolerate the extra boost without much issues.

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4 hours ago, SavageTusk said:

So which is really better suited, a single 62/68/12 or a compound setup HT3B with the existing hx35?

For you, a 62/68/12 would get you comfortably to 500 hp as your truck sits now.  It would be just about maxing out the wiretap but it would get you there.

HX35/HT3B is a tried and true setup, but a pain in the *** because the HT3B is reverse rotation and old.  A HX35/s475 setup is good for 550-575 hp and makes for a killer tow rig.

 

But it really depends on what your goals for the truck are.  Compounds are great for towing but are harder on the driveline.  A single is good for most DD applications.

Edited by trreed
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13 minutes ago, trreed said:

For you, a 62/68/12 would get you comfortably to 500 hp as your truck sits now.  It would be just about maxing out the wiretap but it would get you there.

HX35/HT3B is a tried and true setup, but a pain in the *** because the HT3B is reverse rotation and old.  A HX35/s475 setup is good for 550-575 hp and a killer towing rig.

 

But it really depends on what your goals for the truck are.  Compounds are great for towing but are harder on the driveline.  A single is good for most DD applications.

I have some work ahead of me to buckle down the engine (studs) but I'm in the planning stages for what's to come.  I'm curious if the stock intercooler is too restrictive or if an aftermarket is the way to go for more flow after the turbo selection.

 

My truck is used very lightly for towing, if at all, goal is to get it as far as I can!  I'm all about the speed and torque and love this stuff.  Ultimately I'd like to take it and see how it fares on the track for fun.  I want to customize the truck to be one of a kind and just my powerhorse.  That's it, fun, learning, speed.

 

I attempted to study the math on turbos and ...WTF, that's a lot of calculations so until I truly understand it, I'll go with yall's recommendations.  It's pretty amazing how much I've already learned just on this forum.  

 

 

By the way, I'm a programmer and sit in an office all day so, this is the main reason I have a horsepower craving lol :)

Edited by SavageTusk
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Stock intercooler is pretty robust and very efficient.  Stick with it unless something goes wrong with it.  

If you're about speed and torque, compounds are for you.  When my compounds went in, I had the same size injectors you did and speced both exhaust housings on my turbos tighter to bring more torque in more quickly.  

 

Using an HX35 as a secondary will choke down the primary, but my vote is for a 475/96/1.15.  That tighter housing on the primary will help a ton.  I love mine.  

 

We will be able to help you understand the math as well.  It looks intimidating, but is actually rather easy.

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1 hour ago, SavageTusk said:

By the way, I'm a programmer and sit in an office all day so, this is the main reason I have a horsepower craving lol

Ummm... I'm in the same position. Web server admin so I get plenty of reading on Dodge Cummins stuff. Too much really... I've got a drooling issue most days.

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O.K. Guys so I got tired of reading and went out for some Throttle time.  I learned a lot

 

 

I learned more today.

 

I tried a #3 tune on the Smarty, and I read where someone had good luck driving it like they had an Egg under the throttle.  SCARED the Crap out of me.  As long as I didn't let it go past 1/2 throttle it would not put out Black smoke, it was making great, put  you back in your seat, Horsepower!  

 

I have to go 17 miles to get a stock air horn so I can pass smog.  I'll play with it some more on the way!

Thanks!

Michael

Edited by int3man
Refference to Smarry tuner added
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1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

HI I saw that and have reached out to him.  That way I own one.  I borrowed one so that I can get past Smog next week.  I've had the truck and need to get her into the state.  0 tune, install the horn,and remove the Edge and I should be good to go.  Crap I need a longer bolt to mount this horn, hopefully he doesn't notice that the heater has been deleted.  I have an inlet horn that is tapped for water injection.

Thanks

Michael

 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Umm... We've got one in the classified ads.

 

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Here is the thread that covers the s03 tuning and what each level does.

 



If you thought sw3 was good just wait until you run something that doesn't stick timing at 18* when duration is at %100.     

 

Try the edge with low boost fueling set at 1 and roll into it.   Putting timing at 30* really helps.

Edited by Me78569
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Try the edge with low boost fueling set at 1 and roll into it.   Putting timing at 30* really helps.

 

I was going to get the quadzilla and hold off on the Wiretap.  They pointed out that the previous owner had done the wire tap with the edge.  So I am committed no matter what I do.

 

Thanks for the suggestion but I am done playing until I get new shoes.  These are what I call may Pops and I don;t need to limp home especially if I'm out screwing around.

 

We took my son to preview colleges and I'll never forget the 4x4 Dodge that blasted past us, we had intermittent light rain.  Apparently he forgot physics as we found him in the ditch a few miles down the road and that Beautiful truck was trashed.  All the horse power in the world won't help you if you can't get it to the ground.

 

On another side note, when I visited the local Turbo shop last night and they said that, when they had 4 customers lined up for the chassis dyno that I could bring my truck over and they would look at it on the dyno.  Boy and I thought that the Boat was expensive!!

 

I Can't wait to find the weakest link on the Dyno!  Not!!!!

 

Michael :- )

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O.K.  Things are getting better now.  One of the gentlemen over on the Smarty Tuner forum I was told to Adjust the variables with the Smarty.  So I played with the Variables and got the #3 tune much more driveable!  We are on to something.

 

Thanks ALL

Michael

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The biggest thing about a Smarty S-03 is basically everything is above stock fuel map. So if you already have large injectors like myself there is no way to defuel below stock levels to control launching smoke or pre-boost smoke. This is where the Quadzilla really shines you can go below ECM fuel map level to hold the fuel back long enough to spool cleanly and then pour the fuel on after the turbo spooled a good 10 PSI or so without flooding the highway with smoke. Also, take note to @Me78569 data map that you're at 100% CANBus fuel by 30% to 35% throttle. This makes controlling smoke rather difficult.

 

Capture+_2018-08-30-19-31-12.png

 

As you'll see I'm starting with only 80% CANBus fuel max. Something Smarty S-03 can't do...

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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1 hour ago, int3man said:

O.K.  Things are getting better now.  One of the gentlemen over on the Smarty Tuner forum I was told to Adjust the variables with the Smarty.  So I played with the Variables and got the #3 tune much more driveable!  We are on to something.

 

Thanks ALL

Michael

You should look at the datalogs that show what the S03 does for tuning.  I am really not a fan of it.


you would really benifit from some tuning.  Quadzilla or Udc pro. 

%50 throttle snap take off while towing my gooseneck

 

 

 

WOT take off

 

 

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On 8/29/2018 at 11:31 AM, Dieselfuture said:

If i may add, I have a custom built turbo from  http://www.northamericanturbo.com 62/67/12 and 7x10vco that I'm currently in love with, for a good price that allows me to use the exhaust brake that uses 5 bolt flange. Although I am limited to 3" exhaust outlet, so it can get a bit hotter when I'm on it. If exhaust brake is not a concern get the turbos mentioned above with 4" down pipe, imo it's a great set up. 

I don't use EB as much now and some day I may just sell my set up and get the 62/68/12. But at this point I got more  then I need without braking stuff. 

Can I ask which engine brake you have installed on your turbo? 

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1 hour ago, pepsi71ocean said:

Can I ask which engine brake you have installed on your turbo? 

BD, had it for I think 6 years now. Not sure if they are still made the same. Mine works good as far as I can tell but I can't compare it to others ether. Mine looks like this but this one is listed for older models for some reason. 

https://www.dieselperformance.com/shop/product/2033135-exhaust-brake-1989-1998-dodge-60psi-vac-turbo-mount-5347

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Guest 04Mach1
On 8/29/2018 at 9:20 PM, Me78569 said:

Here is the thread that covers the s03 tuning and what each level does.

 



If you thought sw3 was good just wait until you run something that doesn't stick timing at 18* when duration is at %100.     

 

Try the edge with low boost fueling set at 1 and roll into it.   Putting timing at 30* really helps.

That thread explained a lot. I've been running on SW#1 for about a year. It will roll coal if I drop the skinny pedal too much on take off with RV275 injectors. I'm not a fan of my truck producing that much smoke so if I ever get the extra coin I will definitely be looking into a quad adrenaline tuner. 

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4 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

BD, had it for I think 6 years now. Not sure if they are still made the same. Mine works good as far as I can tell but I can't compare it to others ether. Mine looks like this but this one is listed for older models for some reason. 

https://www.dieselperformance.com/shop/product/2033135-exhaust-brake-1989-1998-dodge-60psi-vac-turbo-mount-5347

I was wondering if a pacbrake could be mounted in its place with the pxrb flange. It would give you the 4" exhaust option. 

3 hours ago, 04Mach1 said:

That thread explained a lot. I've been running on SW#1 for about a year. It will roll coal if I drop the skinny pedal too much on take off with RV275 injectors. I'm not a fan of my truck producing that much smoke so if I ever get the extra coin I will definitely be looking into a quad adrenaline tuner. 

 

I couldn't get my truck to smoke on SW1. I wonder what sub settings your at?

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