Head gasket blown - Coolant leak

[Dieselfuture]

Well they were worn last year before I did hg and even then seals were in place and not burning any oil at all. The whole reason I did hg is oil leak and later found out my guides are worn. So all that got fixed and for a year/6k I didn't have an issue, until I started playing with tunes again. Then all the sudden I'm blowing clouds of smoke on start up, that's when I found half the exhaust seals were off the guides. So that's how I came to idea of using ford seals, not saying it's the right way but hey. Then I only did exhaust side and put regular ones on intake side just because I had it apart, which may have been a mistake since they were still good and on guides. So fast forward 1k and I'm checking valve lash and noticed few of intake seals are of the guides, sob, so took it all apart again and did the intake side with top hats. While in there I checked exhaust side and all guides and everything still looked good. So that's where I'm at now, using Ford top hats on all of my valves, they won't blow off now but there might be a slight issue with carbon build up between the seal and guide as they are 1/16 taller then need to be, so there is a small air gap. Only time will tell now, I'm not planning on taking anything apart unless something else happens. And if I ever take the head off again, it will get machined for the right seals.

 I really think it's my luck or too much pressure, ether from boost or exhaust brake, I know carbon build up is from using EB, and according to some people see a lot more back pressure from eb than boost. So be careful using yours. 

[Mopar1973Man]

15 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

I really think it's my luck or too much pressure, ether from boost or exhaust brake, I know carbon build up is from using EB, and according to some people see a lot more back pressure from eb than boost.

 

No issues. Dropped in hard at nearly 3k RPM on the exhaust brake still all is good. The only way your getting drive pressure up the to the valve seal and blowing them off is the guides on the exhaust side have clearance and the pressure is blowing them off. The top hat style the spring is holding the seal down. I wonder how long that will last. 

[Dieselfuture]

2 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

The top hat style the spring is holding the seal down. I wonder how long that will last. 

Forever 

[CUMMINSDIESELPWR]

On 9/26/2018 at 4:32 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

 

I kind of knew the answer from most was drill hole a hole drop it through the hole in the cowl. The other was to beat a dent in the body so the stud would pass. Neither are solutions I wanted to use. So I thought about it and answer my own question. Either the engine would have to drop or the cab would have to rise. Being the engine mount would have to be unbolted and lining it back up might be a PITA so knowing the cab is on rubber mounts you can flex a quarter inch from the cab. I will note that when you place your body weight on the front bumper to reach over you might gain a bit more. So be careful on how much you lift then put your body weight up there. 

was working on a friends 3rd gen back in 2013 in colorado, leaning over the pass fender working on the bottom of the turbo trying to get a bolt to loosen, ended up breaking a rib i was pulling on the wrench so hard (and body weight-feet off the ground), my friend and his dad standing there heard a loud pop and i hit the floor gasping...    there goes the rib.  broke it 3/4 way through, really sucked

[dripley]

1 hour ago, CUMMINSDIESELPWR said:

was working on a friends 3rd gen back in 2013 in colorado, leaning over the pass fender working on the bottom of the turbo trying to get a bolt to loosen, ended up breaking a rib i was pulling on the wrench so hard (and body weight-feet off the ground), my friend and his dad standing there heard a loud pop and i hit the floor gasping...    there goes the rib.  broke it 3/4 way through, really sucked

Got plenty bloody spots but never broke a rib. Shazamm!!!

[Silverdodge]

3 hours ago, CUMMINSDIESELPWR said:

was working on a friends 3rd gen back in 2013 in colorado, leaning over the pass fender working on the bottom of the turbo trying to get a bolt to loosen, ended up breaking a rib i was pulling on the wrench so hard (and body weight-feet off the ground), my friend and his dad standing there heard a loud pop and i hit the floor gasping...    there goes the rib.  broke it 3/4 way through, really sucked

Jesus

[Mopar1973Man]

3 hours ago, CUMMINSDIESELPWR said:

was working on a friends 3rd gen back in 2013 in colorado, leaning over the pass fender working on the bottom of the turbo trying to get a bolt to loosen, ended up breaking a rib i was pulling on the wrench so hard (and body weight-feet off the ground), my friend and his dad standing there heard a loud pop and i hit the floor gasping...    there goes the rib.  broke it 3/4 way through, really sucked

I guess that what you call, "Going for broke"

[rogerash0]

damn, now thats a story

[Mopar1973Man]

I've got to admit now the rebuilt head and gasket the trucks great. Now I noticed I had to change up my Quadzilla tune. Lets see what I can hit now.

[Mopar1973Man]

The only thing I've been having a problem with lately is a weeping fuel leak. Not enough to make a mess but it still dripping off the bellhousing. It will drip just enough to spot the ground and smell of diesel fuel.

 

I replaced the two sealing washers on the return line at the back of the head. That is a trick to do. I tell you a secret is to put your new sealing washer on the banjo bolt and put it in place in the banjo fitting. Now push the fuel line back against the firewall to hold the bolt in place now you can push the second sealing washer on the bolt. Now just thread it back into the head. 

 

Crossover tubes got fresh o-rings during the assembly process and the injectors got fresh o-rings too. 

 

I'm chasing the fuel leak between either #5 or #6 behind the hoist ring. Maybe I got it this time. 

 

Never had a hard start issue. 

[Guest 04Mach1]

37 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

The only thing I've been having a problem with lately is a weeping fuel leak. Not enough to make a mess but it still dripping off the bellhousing. It will drip just enough to spot the ground and smell of diesel fuel.

 

I replaced the two sealing washers on the return line at the back of the head. That is a trick to do. I tell you a secret is to put your new sealing washer on the banjo bolt and put it in place in the banjo fitting. Now push the fuel line back against the firewall to hold the bolt in place now you can push the second sealing washer on the bolt. Now just thread it back into the head. 

 

Crossover tubes got fresh o-rings during the assembly process and the injectors got fresh o-rings too. 

 

I'm chasing the fuel leak between either #5 or #6 behind the hoist ring. Maybe I got it this time. 

 

Never had a hard start issue. 

This is my go-to for hard to hold or align gaskets and seals. I just glue the seal to the head then align the fuel line and screw in the banjo bolt. The glue makes for a strong leak free bond. It works great on things like banjo bolt seals, oil pan gaskets, front gear cover gaskets, turbo gaskets, or any type of gasket that's difficult to keep held in place and aligned correctly.

 

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08090-Super-Yellow-Adhesive/dp/B0002JMPRK

Edited October 6, 2018 by 04Mach1

[Mopar1973Man]

Now that I've driven this truck for thousand miles already I noticed something else since the head work. My oil leaks have stopped. I had a weeping oil leak at the gearcase gasket between the block and the gearcase and it stopped. I use to have excessive slobber from the crankcase vent. Use to use about 2 quarts of oil in 7k miles. Now that has all stopped. The oil level seems to remain full and cleaner longer now. 

[rogerash0]

Your old problems are all exactly to a T what I have with my D&J head. I had none of these problems with my stock motor til that 54 block cracked.

[JAG1]

48 minutes ago, rogerash0 said:

Your old problems are all exactly to a T what I have with my D&J head. I had none of these problems with my stock motor til that 54 block cracked.

So are you saying  no power mods, staying with a stock motor has its advantages?

[Mopar1973Man]

10 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

So are you saying  no power mods, staying with a stock motor has its advantages?

 

1 hour ago, rogerash0 said:

what I have with my D&J head.

 

No. It's about the fact the blowby in his case was the block cracked.

[rogerash0]

my d&j engine was a whole new kit and kabootle.. top and bottom end. no longer a 53block.  so there might be some confusion there sry