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Another Rectifier/Diodes Failure


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2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Weak batteries or grid heaters running. Go drive the truck charge you batteries and test again. Make sure all accessories are turned off.

Grid heaters have been unhooked to preserve diodes and @BBHD no codes with cluster test...sorry fellas forgot to mention that.  Knew I forgot something in my original post.  

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I don't know if this will help, both my second gens had bad cruise control vacuum hoses. Particularly the two short pieces (about 1 1/2'' long) nearest the top of the firewall.... they are connected to what looks like a small black/white flapper valve.

 

Edited by JAG1
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My truck is a Canadian truck so it has daytime headlights, I recently noticed that the daytime headlights cause a .018 AC voltage increase.  I noticed this by applying the emergency brake which deactivates the daytime lights and a drop in AC volts of .018.  I don't know if this applies to any US trucks, I don't know if daytime  lights were a option on US trucks. Just throwing it out there.

 

Daytime lights work by reducing voltage to approx.  5 or 6 volts to the high beams, I don't know how they do this pulse width modulation(PWM)  or resistor?

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On 9/26/2018 at 5:16 PM, bcbigfoot said:

I don't know if this applies to any US trucks, I don't know if daytime  lights were a option on US trucks. Just throwing it out there.

 

Daytime lights work by reducing voltage to approx.  5 or 6 volts to the high beams, I don't know how they do this pulse width modulation(PWM)  or resistor?

 

To my knowledge I dont think DRLs (daytime running lights) were a US option.. I can see if I cant do some searching and find any information on the dealer site on DRLs if you want. (edit- found the info) Directly from chrysler-

 

The Daytime Running Lights (Headlamps) System is installed on vehicles manufactured for sale in Canada only. A separate module, mounted on the cowl, controls the DRL.

 

Says its a module (DRLM Daytime Running Lamp Module) thats mounted to the cowl but the removal/installation section says to removes the screws holding it to the left front inner fender panel..? It should have a 10 way connector with 9 wires in it.

 

Anyone have any luck using Quick Start alternators?

https://alternatorparts.com/dodge-chrysler-plymouth-high-output-alternators.html

He seems to have a pretty good array of vehicles and he even sells diodes and whatnot. I was debating calling them for a higher output alternator. But most likely I am going to order a diode off of here in the next day or two.

Edited by 2000Ram2500
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@W-T got a high put one but not Mechman I dont believe. He invested even more but his electrical requirements are a bit on the large scale compared to most all of us. There is another company that has a good alternator by reviews any way and it is less costly. 180 amp I believe, but I cant remember their name. Surely someone does.

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