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Extended crank to start


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Cold is very understandal. But i would not be very concerned if it is 10* out and and it

takes a bit more to crank it. As long as it does not get alot worse I would ride with it till it warms up some. I guess I am not one to worry to bad about that kind of issue. The differnce between a 1/4 second start versus a 1.5 second start has never bothered me that bad.

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2 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

It’s intermittent. Hat what worries me. It started like a champ his morning but after I drove to lunch it started slow. 

It most likely something very simple. I have something on mine causing the same slow starts and is intermittant. The nut on my #6 line at the head is showing some signs of a minor fuel leak, gathering some dust there. The next time it happens just let off the switch and let the lift pump run. If it busts right off after letting it run, you have narrowed the problem down.

 Just dont let that get the best of you. If its a minor air leak it will wait until you can fix it. Of course if it continually gets worse you might have to deal with it sooner rather than later.

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I pulled my battery cables last night and took a coarse wire brush to them and got real rough. I pulled the positive lead lugs apart and thoroughly brushed them and reclamped them tight. So far it still hasn’t done it again but time will tell. I did notice that rot and arcing has burned a pinhole into the terminal. Gotta grab new batteries soon. Getting ready to go start her up and it’s 10F out. 

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1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Two reasons for slow cranking. One is starter contacts. The second is worn starter brushes.

 

Long cranking typically is loss of prime.

 

Long cranking on cold start could be grid heater issues, compress is low, fuel issues, loss of prime.

We will see if it continues. Which of the above would happen intermittently?

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  • Owner

Starter issues can be intermittent. I can say if you go this route then NAPA "NEW" starters are a very safe solution. DO NOT buy the reman'ed starters they are junk. 

 

Compression issues and grid heater issues can show as getting worse with colder weather. Basically, don't have enough heat to make it ignite the fuel because either or both the grid heater or cylinder compression is low. Compression would show as excessive blow by typically.

 

Loss of prime can show as intermittent problems. Just depends on the angle you park at.  

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I found a possible contrbution to the issue that i fixed last night. The main power lead for the Fass fuel pump was frayed and coming apart at the end where it connects with the battery. i replaced the connector and heat shrinked it to prevent corrosion. This could very easily be the issue i imagine.

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  • Owner

Never hook the fuel pump to the battery. Hook it up in the power stud in the PDC:doh:

 

I wish both AirDog and FASS would remove that from the manual. That is the dumbest thing I've heard was to hook to the battery or the alternator. Bad choices. I've seen what you talk about quite a few times and VP44 failures because the lead rotten off and the driver didn't see the fuel pressure drop or no gauge. Then the other is seeing pumps cooked because the alternator fuse blows and the alternator is producing way high voltage and burns the pump motor up. 

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