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Dieselfuture

2000 Honda Accord using oil

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 I got a 2.3 vtec that I drive every day for work 160 ml a day and every Friday I add almost a quart of oil maybe 800ml. I read that a lot of people have this issue where vtecs consume oil. It did it when I first bought it few years ago, but I was consuming around 600ml, so it went up slightly. It now has 227k on the clock. I checked compression and all cylinders are the same, I did not do leak down test yet. I believe po ran it low on oil and scuffed-up cylinder number one, or it has broken rings on number one. I took all spark plugs out and 2,3,4 look good and clean and looks good inside the cylinder, 1 is ugly and cylinder is wet, it seems to be oil residue. So I believe that's where all my oil is going. Unless I have a stuck open injector. It doesn't smoke on If it doesn't smoke on startups no matter how long it sits, so I believe valves and seals are good. 

Another issue developed recently check engine light came on for EGR valve and a lot of times when I come to a stop it wants to stall and die and sometimes it does stall die. Will EGR valve cause that problem, I feel like it's more related to idle air control or simply when the engine is hot cylinder 1 is barely working and I'm running on 3 cylinders and that's why it's trying to die. When it's almost dying I can hear what sounds like a vacuum leak, checked all the hoses and connectors and seems to be good, of course I could have missed a connection someplace I will keep looking. 

What you guys thinking, @Mopar1973Man @IBMobile and anyone else wants to share their experiences 

This is cylinder one that's probably the culprit 

20190412_155340.jpg.e5e23d74d065bd8f4cf07b6d6beaf08f.jpg

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EGR valve is nothing more than a vacuum leak to exhaust stream. I would do a test on compression and see if the cylinder has damage. Then do a vacuum test to see if there is valve damage. You might pull the EGR valve and make a block off plate for test purpose. I typically make the block off from an old pop can. 

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Thats an ugly spark plug. That is also about as far as my knowledge goes for any help.

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Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

I checked compression and all cylinders are the same, I did not do leak down test yet.

A leak down test is the tell all.  If you have a broken ring or bad valve it will show up here.

 That looks like oil deposit fouling on that plug.

 

4 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

check engine light came on for EGR valve and a lot of times when I come to a stop it wants to stall and die and sometimes it does stall die. Will EGR valve cause that problem

A stuck open EGR will cause a rough idle and stalling as well as a cracked EGR pipe between the valve and intake manifold.  Check for fault code like P0401.

If you had a leaking injector then there would be a code for a bad injector, to rich, or to lean.  A vacuum leak will trigger a to rich code.

Edited by IBMobile
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This isn't going to be much help, but every Honda I've owned burned oil. They all ran great, but I had to keep a close eye on it.

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Thanks gentleman, I will trouble shoot some more. If i ever figure it out I'll let you know. But pretty sure cylinder 1 has oil in it from bad ring is my guess. 

I do have a code for EGR, that's when it started to die on me too, so hopefully that's all it is for that part. As long as oil consumption doesn't get worse I'll keep driving it.

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I put a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer in, that thick honey stuff and it still burned same amount. It seems if I stay below 3k rpm it does ok, if I get on it there and there then it chugs oil.

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4 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

It seems if I stay below 3k rpm it does ok, if I get on it there and there then it chugs oil.

Makes sense to me. I always blamed my oil consumption on the Honda motors being too high-revving for their own good.

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If it's got a PVC valve take it out shake it if it rattles okay you're good but doesn't rattle get another one

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7 hours ago, 015point9 said:

If it's got a PVC valve take it out shake it if it rattles okay you're good but doesn't rattle get another one

That was the first thing I changed hoping it did a trick, unfortunately it did not. 

 

One more thing I didn't mention. My throttle was sticky, I thought it was a cable catching, got everything lubricated and it was still catching. Took the intake hose off and found a lot of gummy gooey stuff inside the throttle body. Got it all cleaned with carb clean, so butterfly doesn't stick in that gooey mess. I think because of this Blow by its shoving too much oil vapor into the intake

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4 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

this Blow by its shoving too much oil vapor into the intake

Check it again after a week of driving.  Get that EGR problem taken care of first so it's drivable..

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1 hour ago, IBMobile said:

Check it again after a week of driving.  Get that EGR problem taken care of first so it's drivable..

Oh it's drivable :rolleyes: I have to push gas and brake with one foot to keep it from stalling, like driving a stock car ha ha. It's a 5 speed 

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1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

It's a 5 speed 

Keep driving it like that and it soon will be a no speed.

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5 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

Keep driving it like that and it soon will be a no speed.

I feel your humor :lmao2: it will give me more reasons to drive the truck daily :burnout:

Wife says sell it while it's still running, I'm like for how much 1k if I'm lucky, what am I going to get for that. It already paid for itself long ago, every mile going forward is a bonus. Been using oil since I got it almost 80k ago runs good on the hwy and gets 35-37mpg 

I'll try working on it this weekend and see what I find.

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10 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Wife says sell it while it's still running, I'm like for how much 1k if I'm lucky,

If you can get the idle fixed then drive it till it drops.  It would cost you more than $1,000 in the first year on a new car.  A quart of oil every 600-800 miles is cheap compared to paying for a new car.   Walmart's brand is $12.78  for a 5 qtr. jug.

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1 minute ago, IBMobile said:

If you can get the idle fixed then drive it till it drops.  It would cost you more than $1,000 in the first year on a new car.  A quart of oil every 600-800 miles is cheap compared to paying for a new car.   Walmart's brand is $12.78  for a 5 qtr. jug.

Exactly my thoughts, I chanel it every 10k but by the time I do I add like 8qts lol so it's fresh. I get a wix filter that's slightly bigger for longer intervals 

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@IBMobile  I cleaned the EGR valve it was all carboned up, it seems to cure stalling issue. Next time it does it I'll probably just block it off and leave sensor plugged in. 

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Time to make a block off gasket. I was doing that back in the 1980's for the older 1970's cars in Cally. Use to sneak right on through the smog check and pass easily. 

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3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Use to sneak right on through the smog check and pass easily. 

 

4 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

I'll probably just block it off and leave sensor plugged in. 

Glad to hear it was that easy to fix, happy motoring. 

That sensor is used to monitor the flow of exhaust gas by the increase in heat when the gas is flowing to the intake manifold.   When the EGR valve is commanded open and there is no increase in temp then the check engine light is turned on and P code is set,   This is an automatic fail in Cali. 

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5 hours ago, IBMobile said:

 

Glad to hear it was that easy to fix, happy motoring. 

That sensor is used to monitor the flow of exhaust gas by the increase in heat when the gas is flowing to the intake manifold.   When the EGR valve is commanded open and there is no increase in temp then the check engine light is turned on and P code is set,   This is an automatic fail in Cali. 

What's weird is, I blocked it off on my 88 GT Mustang I had about 15 years ago and it never did set code or light. I think that was about the only vehicle I blocked it off on. 

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11 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

What's weird is, I blocked it off on my 88 GT Mustang I had about 15 years ago and it never did set code or light. I think that was about the only vehicle I blocked it off on. 

Did vehicles set codes back in 88?

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Just now, dripley said:

Did vehicles set codes back in 88?

I think so. It could be because I separated the base and the sensor on the EGR valve, left the valve plugged in so if commanded to move it could still move freely and filled the hole in the base with J-B Weld and bolted it back on.

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As far as I know emissions codes came in 96 with the arrival of OBD2. In my state (of confusion) pre 1996 vehicles are only subject to a visual emissions inspection because OBD1 did not read the emission codes. Cali vehicles are most likely different.

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1 hour ago, dave110 said:

As far as I know emissions codes came in 96 with the arrival of OBD2. In my state (of confusion) pre 1996 vehicles are only subject to a visual emissions inspection because OBD1 did not read the emission codes. Cali vehicles are most likely different.

Thats what I was thinking. Had this truck for 8 years before I knew wwhat an error code was. Funny how a blown ECM will educate you.

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