Vp44

[Reddemonvp44]

My truck all the sudden takes a good 3-5 seconds to crank over, as well as the fass fuel system pumps for a good 20 seconds once the key is turned, is that a good sign if the vp44 going out?

[Me78569]

sounds like you have an air leak.

[dripley]

One of of the symptoms my VP showed before failing was hard starting. It is very similar to the hard starting from an air leak the @Me78569 mentions. Scan the truck for trouble codes. 

 

It is normal for the lift pump to run for 20 seconds if you have bumped the starter with no engine start. At key on it should just bunp the lift pump for less than a second. This is controlled thru the ECM and not the VP.

[Reddemonvp44]

I’m pretty sure it’s the vp, can I just wait for it to fail or will it wipe anything else out 

[dripley]

I dont think so. But it is not going to care when or where it quits, if thats the problem.

[Reddemonvp44]

Yea, who has changed there own I know my brother had his ve pump done by a shop he said it was easier to go that route did you change your own?

[dripley]

Oh yes. This one was my second plus a couple other times removing for other reasons. It is not difficult. Did this last one in a Motel parking lot. I spent about $1300 on the pump, shipping, and a couple tools I did not have with me. Not to mention motel and rental car. Close to a couple grand. A shop would have added about another $500.

[015point9]

Just in case you need this hopefully you don't

 

 

[Reddemonvp44]

Would it be possible for @Mopar1973Man or @Me78569 cell number I have a few tech questions 

[Me78569]

Not something i do.  Mike might dunno ill leave that to him

[dripley]

Mike is pretty covered up right now but I cannot speak for him either.

 

I will say that there is wealth of knowledge here with the members on the VP that we readily share all the time. Post up your questions, you might be surprised. This is not difficult to do if you can turn a wrench. It is all bolt off, bolt on. The pump is already set up. Just bolt it on bleed the fuel sytem and drive.

 

[JAG1]

You should bump the starter and wait for fuel pressure to go up to around 9 psi and then crank to see if she starts right away. I say this because it could only be the fuel return Tee gaskets on the back of the head. When they start going bad they let in air so when you shut down you lose prime because fuel will drain back to the tank. This causes hard starts and the trick of bringing up the fuel pressure before cranking isn't always a perfect way to tell if that is the problem. IOW, just don't want to to jump into a new VP without knowing for sure. My truck got a new VP last year and hard starts just showed up for me. I'm pretty sure it's the return Tee.

[Reddemonvp44]

@JAG1 your talking about the banjo bolt that’s spring loaded with a little ball bearing correct, yea I already changed that, didn’t fix. I’m almost certain it’s the injection.

[dripley]

48 minutes ago, Reddemonvp44 said:

@JAG1 your talking about the banjo bolt that’s spring loaded with a little ball bearing correct, yea I already changed that, didn’t fix. I’m almost certain it’s the injection.

Are you talking about the return valve on the VP with the return line connected to it? It fits into the upper left hole in the VP.  On the new pump below the supply has a black pug and the return has the white plug.

[JAG1]

I'm talking about the return fuel 'T' on the back end of the engine head. Its back under the windshield cowell. Have to lay on the engine to get to it. When the rubber grommets/ seals go bad it lets air into the system when parked nose uphill and you lose prime affording some hard starts. It is a 'T' in order to take return fuel from two places, the injectors and from the VP44 Overflow valve you were referring to above.

[dripley]

8 hours ago, JAG1 said:

I'm talking about the return fuel 'T' on the back end of the engine head. Its back under the windshield cowell. Have to lay on the engine to get to it. When the rubber grommets/ seals go bad it lets air into the system when parked nose uphill and you lose prime affording some hard starts. It is a 'T' in order to take return fuel from two places, the injectors and from the VP44 Overflow valve you were referring to above.

I know you were. Thought @Reddemonvp44 might have had the 2 locations mixxed up.

[Haggar]

Here is the "tee" Jag is mentioning.  Item 3.  Each of the connectors going to 3 have a small gasket.  This thing is very hard to reach with one hand, let alone 2 hands to tighten stuff.  (you are looking at the firewall side of the head.)

 

GL   HTH

Hag

[JAG1]

Thank you Haggar and Dripley too 

[dripley]

1 hour ago, Haggar said:

Here is the "tee" Jag is mentioning.  Item 3.  Each of the connectors going to 3 have a small gasket.  This thing is very hard to reach with one hand, let alone 2 hands to tighten stuff.  (you are looking at the firewall side of the head.)

 

GL   HTH

Hag

Number 6 is the "banjo bolt"/relief valve that I believe @Reddemonvp44 is refering to.

[Reddemonvp44]

I appreciate the info who has had luck with a hot rod vp44 it says 100 hp gain with supporting mods, I’m either going that route or 300 horsepower injectors on stock vp44 I have 150 hp injectors right now and what just a little more, what would I be happier with?