Not starting

[wldbil95]

Could I please get some help. Ive trying to get my 01 6 spd manual started after sitting for 2 years now. I got the fuel problem fixed. turned the key and nothing. new batteries fully charged. Are there still neutral safety switches? something else I could be looking for ?. TIA

[dripley]

There is one on the clutch. You have to push it in to start.

[Mopar1973Man]

Automatics ground the starter solenoid relay. 

 

Manuals use a slide switch to supply +12V to the starter solenoid relay. 

 

[Dieselfuture]

Do all your lights on the dash work when you turn the key

[Royal Squire]

There is a fuse in the pdc under the hood that may be the culprit 

[Mopar1973Man]

27 minutes ago, Royal Squire said:

There is a fuse in the pdc under the hood that may be the culprit 

[wldbil95]

Thanks fellas for the input. I only get home on the weekends witch makes things difficult. last weekend I was searching for the neutral safety switch down on the clutch pedal, all I can really see is what I would say is the hydraulic plunger. SWo I crawled under and looked at tranny driver side, nothing. Passenger side is a 2 wire connector that worked it self out, I thought that might do it, but no. The #2 fuse checked good. Ill check the relay tonight. 

While I was having the fuel issue it cranked over just fine, is it possible the starter got to hot and just failed ?

Yes all lights on dash work.

Is the clutch pedal position switch testable ?

Edited April 17, 2020 by wldbil95
punctuation

[dripley]

That switch l believe is on the rod to the master cylinder. If not something that is tied to the clutch pedal. I took mine off 13 years or so ago and dont remeber exactly what it was on, but it is under the dash. If you can find it just jumper the wires and it should start clutch in or out. If it does not it could be the starter. Thats the problem I had back then and thought it was the switch and turned out to be the starter.

[Mopar1973Man]

11 hours ago, dripley said:

That switch l believe is on the rod to the master cylinder. If not something that is tied to the clutch pedal. I took mine off 13 years or so ago and dont remeber exactly what it was on, but it is under the dash. If you can find it just jumper the wires and it should start clutch in or out. If it does not it could be the starter. Thats the problem I had back then and thought it was the switch and turned out to be the starter.

 

RockAuto sells that clutch safety switch.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2001,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1366602,electrical-switch+&+relay,clutch+pedal+position+/+starter+safety+switch,16665

[Blueox01]

20 hours ago, wldbil95 said:

Thanks fellas for the input. I only get home on the weekends witch makes things difficult. last weekend I was searching for the neutral safety switch down on the clutch pedal, all I can really see is what I would say is the hydraulic plunger. SWo I crawled under and looked at tranny driver side, nothing. Passenger side is a 2 wire connector that worked it self out, I thought that might do it, but no. The #2 fuse checked good. Ill check the relay tonight. 

While I was having the fuel issue it cranked over just fine, is it possible the starter got to hot and just failed ?

Yes all lights on dash work.

Is the clutch pedal position switch testable ?

Green connector, two yellow wires it what your looking for.

[wldbil95]

Got the starter installed turns over really quick now, got fuel to vp44. but not popping off. Seems to me its lost its prime again, even after having a shop replace a check valve. What is the proper way to prime pump? TIA

[Great work!]

Loosen a couple injector nuts then bump the starter and leave key on on you should hear the electric lift pump running for a while. Repeat a couple times. Tighten nuts and cycle the lift pump again then try starting. You must have good batteries to start. Not all lift pumps work that way. This is for the stock lift pumps.

[dripley]

You do need to crack 2 or 3 lines to the head so the fuel can get past the VP. When get a good flow thru one close it off. Then look for anotherand close it. By then you should be getting some fire.

[wldbil95]

I had tree line damn near off but no fuel flowing. must have cycled 6-8 times. got it to chug but just wont fire....

 

[dripley]

Have you checked for trouble codes?

[wldbil95]

No I have not. Do you recommend a good scanner? I do remember last time I drove it to Hay Days that the fuel gauge was all over the place. I figure once I get it moved I could replace sending unit. I would wager that this truck is one of the few remaining rust free 2nd gens in MN.

[Mopar1973Man]

OBDLink MX...

https://www.obdlink.com/mxbt/

 

 

[dripley]

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

OBDLink MX...

https://www.obdlink.com/mxbt/

 

 

Seems to be the good one to go with these days. And reasonable too.

[wldbil95]

I ordered one. have any idea on what its gonna tell me? do the vp44s get rebuilt, is there a better direct replacement? 

[Blueox01]

4 hours ago, wldbil95 said:

I ordered one. have any idea on what its gonna tell me? do the vp44s get rebuilt, is there a better direct replacement? 

You say this sat for 2 years. And you have fuel to the pump, but nothing out the lines? You pump is gummed up, nothing short of replacing the pump will get you going. I'm on my second replacement  pump , I get about 450K out of them. My last one sat for several years even with fuel dumped was still gummed up, wasn't getting any fuel to the lines, replaced pump fired off after cracking a few lines. The air will be in the top 3 lines of the pump. I have gotten both mine from Diesel Specialties here in Omaha, their branch in Sioux City doe the rebuilding (Bosch authorized) I think the last one was $1200 plus core.