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I have a 96-24 valve motor, it has 300,00 miles on it and still runs great....but yesterday she started throwing oil out and over EVERYTHING....The timing cover is "cracked" they say the motor needs to come out to repair it???? $2700.00......don't sound right to me.Have any of you changed or repaired the timing cover on this motor?What could cause this condition?How bad of a job is it to change / repair?Where could I get a replacement cover?Is the timing cover on this motor steel or plasticMany thanks as always for your help. Randy

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So you have to find a new cover or weld that one. All you really need to take off is the fan and fan shroud. Damper also comes off. I think the KDP might have came out and hit the cover and cracked it or something. It's an hour job. If you weld it up, the seals and everything might cost you $50 tops. If they want $2700 tell them to rebuild the engine before you pay :lol:

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I have a 96-24 valve motor, it has 300,00 miles on it and still runs great....but yesterday she started throwing oil out and over EVERYTHING.... The timing cover is "cracked" they say the motor needs to come out to repair it???? $2700.00......don't sound right to me. Have any of you changed or repaired the timing cover on this motor? What could cause this condition? How bad of a job is it to change / repair? Where could I get a replacement cover? Is the timing cover on this motor steel or plastic Many thanks as always for your help. Randy

I have a timing Gear Cover, PM me for more info. Richie

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Have any of you changed or repaired the timing cover on this motor?

No... At least not me..

What could cause this condition?

Killer dowel pin fell out... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/kdp/kdp.htm

How bad of a job is it to change / repair?

Well its going to be a full weekend job... Your going to need to pull the front off the engine plus pull the cam out. That's if your replacing the gear case.

Where could I get a replacement cover?

Cummins or Dodge dealer??? :shrug:

Is the timing cover on this motor steel or plastic

Steel cover but aluminum case.

Many thanks as always for your help. Randy

What little I can provide...:rolleyes:

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Many thanks, I was afraid it might have been...... the KDP.....I stand corrected actually the motor has 420.000 miles on herRichie...Do you have a "cover" for the case, or the case itselfIf in fact the dowel has come out and is "lost" does this cause concern??? Do we need the dowel pin there or was it just to align the case to the block?I would presume the case is cast aluminum, can it be tig'dThere is no pressure there in the case area, what about an epoxy or???

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This spring when I was going to tab my KDP and replace the seals which I hoped would fix my oil leak, I found that the KDP had come out and cracked the timing case right under where the fan bracket mounts to the block. I really didn't want to pay what the shops charge to replace the case so I just decided to try and fix it with some JB weld and its held up good so far, I couldn't get down in to JB weld the part of the crack on the back of the timing case that's against the block so I still leaks a drop or 2 here and there.

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The below links may be of some help to give you an idea of the task before you as well as give you an idea of the steps involved.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0Ci5l0wrqo&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtphHbQ06H0&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nD7-sQMkFxQ&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKdihnClDjU&feature=related

Here are some other great info. resources that will help you out:

http://dieseldatabase.com/read.php?id=111

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-tech-articles/219708-kdp-damaged-case-repair-instructions.html

Bill Fleming posted some ideas as well:

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-tech-articles/223095-what-kdp.html

You have a muther jumper of a job ahead of you. Sorry to hear about your bad luck. Hope this helps make the job easier as well as wraps up the task in a better to understand package. :thumbup2:

--- Update to the previous post...

This spring when I was going to tab my KDP and replace the seals which I hoped would fix my oil leak, I found that the KDP had come out and cracked the timing case right under where the fan bracket mounts to the block. I really didn't want to pay what the shops charge to replace the case so I just decided to try and fix it with some JB weld and its held up good so far, I couldn't get down in to JB weld the part of the crack on the back of the timing case that's against the block so I still leaks a drop or 2 here and there.

I would strongly recommend you get it fixed right. Once the timing case gets cracked a number of bolts inside the timing case may loose torque and loosen over time and cause even more catastophic damage.......like breaking the camshaft gear off and the subsequent total destruction of the entire engine. Watch the video's I posted below and look at the bolts that fell out and into the bottom of the timing case. If these go through the gears on the way down, the damage can be wallet shocking.

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I really don't know....but on the side of the fender, and on the valve cover it says 24V...but it different from my 2000 24V motor, must be some transition year or???Just know that the bloody thing is busted and bleedin and needs to be fixed...so here we go I guess.I just changed the VP on my 2000 a couple weeks ago

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Many thanks, I was afraid it might have been...... the KDP.....

I stand corrected actually the motor has 420.000 miles on her

Richie...Do you have a "cover" for the case, or the case itself

If in fact the dowel has come out and is "lost" does this cause concern???

YES, I HAVE THE FRONT METAL TIMING GEAR COVER...NOT THE TIMING GEAR /HOUSING/CASE WHICH IS CAST ALUM. & IS WHAT ALWAYS GET CRACKED IN KDP PROBLEM:thumbup2:...

COVER IS GOOD... NO CRACKS

Do we need the dowel pin there or was it just to align the case to the block?

I would presume the case is cast aluminum, can it be tig'd

There is no pressure there in the case area, what about an epoxy or???

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I really don't know....but on the side of the fender, and on the valve cover it says 24V...but it different from my 2000 24V motor, must be some transition year or??? Just know that the bloody thing is busted and bleedin and needs to be fixed...so here we go I guess. I just changed the VP on my 2000 a couple weeks ago

No the transition year is '98... Are you sure you have a 1996 truck??:shrug:

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Randy4140... Could you do as all a favor and shot a pic of the engine and then one of the driver side door jamb label... This will resolve the engine / year problem we are having... For example like my setup... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2122-Mopar1973Man-2002-Dodge-Cummins Yeah and LiveOak's thread has everything you need for getting the job done wonderful set of videos... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2352-Timing-cover-broken?p=18016&viewfull=1#post18016

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There were some cases for sale on E-Bay or call your local FREIGHTLINER DEALER or CUMMINS DEALER NEVER BUY ANYTHING FOR YOUR ENGINE FROM DODGE(unless they supply a 5lb jar of vaseline with your purchase) most times i can purchase from Freightliner for less than directly from Cummins(has to do with wholesale price from Cummins to Freightliner VS Cummins retail to customer).Have your engine # handy,upper left side of the case you need.

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Guys, I will have to check the year of the truck, it is my sister in laws truck, not mine. I was under the impression that it was a 96, but now???When I have it at my shop 1st of the week I will check it out and post then. ThanksNow I have an issue with my truck, 2000 CTD I just returned from a canoeing trip into Ontario, CA. I drive 1200 miles no issue, pull into the drive and turn around out back, go to back the trailer into the garage and it seems as though the trans is stuck in drive....in neutral the truck still creeps ahead, put it in reverse and it will hardly back up, still wants to go ahead...what the hell????? IdeasI guess it's better that it happened at home but????

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I had a car do that and it was a clutch pack that was in the process of welding itself together. What would work temporarily was to put it in park and rev the engine and there was a loud 'snap'. It worked for a while, but I wound up replacing the tranny.

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Thanks to all of you for your helpful replies, To answer some questions brought up regarding this truck. It is a 95, 12 valve motor, someone put 24 valve flags on the fenders.I brought the truck into my shop and pulled the fan, rad belt, timing cover, inspected the cracked area. It was KDP for positive.....I degreased the motor and engine bay first then used a rotary burr to vee out the cracked area 1/3 the depth of the crack, and above and below the crack was cleaned of any debris with the rotary burr lightly. I then cleaned out the crack area with brakleen spray to remove any residual oil.I then mixed up a batch of J&B weld and forced it into the crack area, and troweled the rest over and around the crack and let it sit over night. reinstalled the cover and all the rest , seems to be fine, I guess time will tell for sure,I think I will take my 2000 apart and perform the PM fix before mine turns out the same..............

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Not all 24v engines need a tab. I seem to recall that most up to about '99 did, after that the hole in the case was 'stepped' to prevent something that Dodge or Cummins "never heard of before". I guess for the 2.5 or so hours to check it is worth it.

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So, to all,of you, the question of the day is this. Do I tear apart my 2000 24V to do the tab fix? of do I not have an issue with a 2000 as MnTom suggests???I am all for it if it needs to be done but that being said it is still a lot of work if done needlessly.........So is there anyone who has had this issue KDP with a 2000 CTD? That will answer the question in my mind anyway. Thanks to all

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i have read some saying that the 01 and newer doesn't have to worry about it. i read where a few people with early 99s and 00s had the new case with the step, but most 24v seem to need the fix(as well as ALL 12v).

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I submitted the repair procedure in the the Downloads section under "other documents" but you will have to wait until Michael looks at it before it is visible. It is for a 12V but should apply to early 24V if that is what you have. Has a great description and very good pictures of pulling the camshaft. There is a heat method of pulling the cam gear off the cam instead of removing the whole cam but that is usually reserved for experienced Cummins mechanics. The gear is heat treated for hardness so one has to be careful with a torch.

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In our shop we always used the smoke test.Heat until the oil smokes on the part, don't go any hotter.Unless you want metal that you pull the temper out of it

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