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[That1Guy02]

11 minutes ago, Bullet said:

I had the same problem with the wife too...but I got her a brand new set of divorce papers and several problems were suddenly all solved at once...including the one you mentioned. 

Lol I hear yuh there this one actually lets me spend most of what I want where I want so I can’t complain she’s just a tight ***??. 
 

 

12 minutes ago, Bullet said:

But on a more serious note...springs aren't necessary at the level of power that a Quad, a 62/68/12 and 150hp injectors are capable of.  Once you slide another turbo underneath the 62 and get a little crazier with the injectors then I would be thinking about springs.  And if I'm getting beefier springs then that automatically means I'm also getting beefier pushrods as a package deal.

 

Thank you for the advice I will for sure keep that in mind for the future.

 

14 minutes ago, Bullet said:

 

If it makes you feel any better with everything in my sig I am/have been running stock springs and pushrods for a long time.  I hit 58-59lbs and 3500 rpms fairly often at around 525-550hp...and still have rock solid reliability.  Still running the original VP...courtesy of a mechanical lift pump and some good luck before that. 

I really like the idea of a mechanical pump. Is it a pain to install? I need to do a little more research into because I don’t know much about them. 
I’m digging the shorty conversion. I got a buddy who is in the process of making a shorty out of a 2019 F450 single cab I’m curious to see how it turns out. 

[Bullet]

1 hour ago, That1Guy02 said:

??

I really like the idea of a mechanical pump. Is it a pain to install? I need to do a little more research into because I don’t know much about them. 
I’m digging the shorty conversion. I got a buddy who is in the process of making a shorty out of a 2019 F450 single cab I’m curious to see how it turns out. 

Install is easy...hardest part is routing and securing all fuel lines to where they are safe from sharp edges, heat and/or other moving parts.  You mount the pump and crank pulley, install a coupler in your fill hose and then build the rest of it how you want it.  You're given a supply of connections and a roll of fuel line that you cut to fit how you route your lines.  You can plumb it 2 different ways...in conjunction with your current electric pump (a little more install work, unnecessary and $50 more) or straight mechanical with no electric pump in the mix (easiest and best).  I went straight mechanical so I have no electric pump on the truck.  Fuel pressure is a rock solid 18lbs and actually increases with throttle instead of decreasing like electrics do.

 

Re shorty conversion...thanks I really appreciate it!  It was alot of work but I wanted something cool and different.  What's funny is I drive it fairly often and almost nobody notices it...which is kind of a compliment in itself.  I've had maybe 5 people approach the truck at the gas station and start staring at it with a puzzled look on their face and then ask me questions like 'is that a diesel?' or 'did you build that?'  It's funny cuz I'm just as shocked at them noticing as they are about the truck.

Edited June 21, 2020 by Bullet

[That1Guy02]

5 hours ago, Bullet said:

Install is easy...hardest part is routing and securing all fuel lines to where they are safe from sharp edges, heat and/or other moving parts

So this might be a stupid question. Can I leave my fass and sump installed(forgot to add to my signature) and just run the mechanical with the fuse pulled from the run start plug in the junction box? In my head it will work as long as the fass will free flow. 

[Mopar1973Man]

8 hours ago, That1Guy02 said:

I’m on the interstate and trying to maintain a constant 75-80 and I just cringe to see the tach setting so high for hours on end.

 

I run...

• 3.55 axles
• 245/75 R16 tires (30.5 inches)
• NV4500 transmission

With this combo I'm 2,450 at 80 MPH but twisting out 20 MPG. Then at a prefect 66 MPH I'm at 2,000 RPM still doing 21 MPG. Running up to 2,500 will not harm the engine. I've done it over 100k miles now and seen way better MPG from the change up. The 245's tires change the final ratio to 3.69:1 on the 3.55 gear axles. This give way more torque, so much in fact I can break the tires loose pulling my 8,000 pound RV that is 31 foot long. I'm in 4th gear (direct by 25 to 30 MPH). Even towing the RV I had a hi mark of 14.7 MPG. Avg 12.6 MPG for the trip down. The trip back from AZ was 10.5 MPG bucking harsh head winds. 

 

Even better yet @IBMobile is running the 245/75 R16 on his truck with 4.10 gear but his truck is typically strictly used for towing his RV.

 

 

Bliss, Idaho - Winds had forced me to stop for the night. 

Edited June 21, 2020 by Mopar1973Man

[wil440]

5 hours ago, That1Guy02 said:

So this might be a stupid question. Can I leave my fass and sump installed(forgot to add to my signature) and just run the mechanical with the fuse pulled from the run start plug in the junction box? In my head it will work as long as the fass will free flow. 

Yes you could but it's not needed. 

On here there are 2 camps, electric and mechanical, both work. I'm mechanical and I love it ...... rpm increases psi increases, electric goes the other way

[dripley]

I have had 2 AD pump failures. Thru both failures the truck still drove and the VP pulled fuel thru the AD. I can's see why the pump could not be left in the system. If the VP can pull the mechanical pump should not even know it's there. Just my thinking any way. 

[Bullet]

5 hours ago, That1Guy02 said:

So this might be a stupid question. Can I leave my fass and sump installed(forgot to add to my signature) and just run the mechanical with the fuse pulled from the run start plug in the junction box? In my head it will work as long as the fass will free flow. 

Yes you can run both at the same time...without pulling any fuses.  Your electric pump will spin up before starting and will shut down once you start the truck and the mechanical pump starts making pressure.

 

But it's completely unnecessary to have both...you are just adding complexity to the setup and to the install and $50 more to the purchase price of the mechanical pump for the cost of a Hobbs pressure switch to make it all work together.

 

My truck is straight mechanical pump only...no electric pump at all.  Starts and drives just the same as when I had only an electric pump...except with no buzzing sounds.

[IBMobile]

5 hours ago, That1Guy02 said:

Can I leave my fass and sump installed(forgot to add to my signature) and just run the mechanical with the fuse pulled from the run start plug in the junction box? In my head it will work as long as the fass will free flow

I think it's best if you T off the fuel line before the Fass when you run the fuel line to the mechanical pump. The installation instructions show it not going through the electric pump.  

 

[That1Guy02]

Well I was mainly thinking of the added filtration, and it’s already there. I get free fuel for my personal truck but they don’t always buy the best ?. I know I know just spend the money on diesel at a station, but I have a big enough transfer tank that I can usually make it 16-1700 miles without touching a fuel station. So that’s an added bonus on the lay off and going home usually saves you 4-500 dollars. However I like the water separator of the fass and the filtration it provides. I guess I could buy a housing and make my own but it’s already there ?

[Royal Squire]

Could take the innards out of the fass

[Bullet]

Another argument for leaving the electric pump in the mix is for priming during a filter change and in case you throw a belt on the mechanical pump then the electric pump will immediately take over.

 

Those are pretty good arguments in theory...but in reality it only takes a few minutes to prime a mechanical by hand after a filter change and the belts are rated at 75k miles and spin at a very slow rate compared to the serpentine belt.  I have never heard of someone either throwing a belt or having pump problems.

 

The only mechanical pump complaint I've ever heard is trash in the check valve keeping it open.  But that only happens with extreme filtration negligence or from trash in the newly installed lines that weren't blown out properly before connected. 

[That1Guy02]

I guess it’s a more of a piece of mind thing with the filters so I suppose I will decide when I make the purchase. However the the shop that put the fass in took all of my factory lines filters and lift off the block back to the tank. Only thing they didn’t do was plug off the factory wiring harness so water didn’t get into it. Called them oh we threw that away yeah sure you did you got it on a shelf gonna sell it to someone needing it.

[IBMobile]

A pump does not push, it sucks.   By this I mean as the impellers of a pump turn to expel a fluid a vacuum is formed right behind them , this is what draws the liquid to the pump.  This is also why when the vent tube on the tank get blocked with dirt/mud the fuel doesn't flow because a vacuum is created in the tank equal to the vacuum at the pump.   Most pump manufactures say to install a strainer type filter (120 microns} between a fuel supply and the pump and a finer filter (2-10 microns)  after the pump. 

[That1Guy02]

2 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Most pump manufactures say to install a strainer type filter (120 microns} between a fuel supply and the pump and a finer filter (2-10 microns)  after the pump. 

So I’m guessing probably not? 
I could see if the fass could free flow when off where it would work unless the filters were clogged. Does the check valve keep fuel pressure from bleeding off (returning to tank)? I’m sure all of this isn’t worth the amount of effort I’m putting into figuring it out lol but now it has peaked my interest. 

[IBMobile]

4 hours ago, That1Guy02 said:

Does the check valve keep fuel pressure from bleeding off (returning to tank)?

Yes it does.  This is what is under my truck.  I have the fuse fuse for the electric pump pulled and just use the Fuel Boss.  When I want to prime the system the fuse is installed and terminals #30 and #87 are jumped; this turns the pump on without turning the key to the on position.

 

  

[That1Guy02]

So essentially I just need to see if the fass will free flow when not powered on? Which it should being that gdp gives you the option of leaving your fass ddrp in place and functional(shouldn’t be a difference in base design). Run the “to engine” line from the fass to the GDP pump. Then the return from GDP pump to the return on my tank. Throw a plug in the return port of the fass leave it wired up kicks on runs for a few seconds Hobbs switch kicks it off, or just leave the fuse out in the junction box in cab throw in if I need to prime the system.

[IBMobile]

29 minutes ago, That1Guy02 said:

Run the “to engine” line from the fass to the GDP pump.

No,  lower fuel line at the T fitting goes to the mechanical pump and the upper fuel line goes to a check valve then the electric fuel pump.  

This installation diagram might make things clearer.

 

[That1Guy02]

I don’t have either of those. My fass runs straight to the injection pump. The shop took all of my stock stuff out and not the right way either. The sending unit is still in the top of the tank. However the put a sump in and ripped out the block mounted lift pump and filter housing. I had to plug the lines and plug off the factory wiring harness. 

Essentially my fass is my lift and sending unit, but I get what your saying I will use that fass as the “factory” system 

[dieselautopower]

We have a few of the Assassin pumps on sale if you want a Mechanical pump, but not spend big $$.

https://www.dieselautopower.com/dtt-assassin-mechanical-fuel-pump-with-plumbing-98502afp

[That1Guy02]

 

1 minute ago, dieselautopower said:

We have a few of the Assassin pumps on sale if you want a Mechanical pump, but not spend big $$.

https://www.dieselautopower.com/dtt-assassin-mechanical-fuel-pump-with-plumbing-98502afp

Check your pms I also emailed your website.