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When the brake peddle is depressed pin #C1/9 of the antilock brake controller, pin #24 of the ECM, and pin #C3/24 of the PCM all ground through the brake light switch to grounds G200 at the left cowl,

As I said in my original last post on my left turn/ wiper problem I can be accelerating harder in L/U after cleaning up the G100 before the lockup clutch starts to chatter/slip, nothing else has chang

and if it isn't your problem at least you'll have ticked off a ground that is very prone to corrosion 

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11 hours ago, wil440 said:

What's lockup like when you drop it in and out of 4th, is it still harsh or not 

 

 

If I coast and the transmission unlocks on its own its nice and smooth.  When accelerating and it locks on its own its OK too.  Its only when I'm over 45mph and hit the brake and let off it unlocks and locks back up again harshly.  If I hit the brake and hold it down till less then 42ish mph it unlocks harshly but never tries to re-lock.  Like I said... weird :think:

 

When my wife goes to work tomorrow and the garage is free, I will pull it in and re-do the connectors for the W-T mod and then pull the PCM plugs and clean them and give them some dielectric grease.  :thumbup2:

 

Oh and kick the tire...

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what happens if you brake but don't let off, this shouldn't then come out of lockup at all it should just drive against the brake

 

it just seems odd that everything is as it should until you step on the brake

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When the brake peddle is depressed pin #C1/9 of the antilock brake controller, pin #24 of the ECM, and pin #C3/24 of the PCM all ground through the brake light switch to grounds G200 at the left cowl, G201 at instrument panel right center support, and G100 left fender.   This grounding signal or lack of may have an effect on the lock unlock problem.

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3 hours ago, IBMobile said:

When the brake peddle is depressed pin #C1/9 of the antilock brake controller, pin #24 of the ECM, and pin #C3/24 of the PCM all ground through the brake light switch to grounds G200 at the left cowl, G201 at instrument panel right center support, and G100 left fender.   This grounding signal or lack of may have an effect on the lock unlock problem.

Thanks, I will add these items to my list of things to check tomorrow.

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Did you check G100 earlier in the thread when I mentioned it as changed my lockup engagement ?  Also the really bad wire that was causing my wiper turn signal problem was buried inside the bunch and not visible just by looking, only found the 1 strand wire by cutting the terminal off and prising it apart and it is only crimped by the way

 

There is 2 grounds to the front and below the  drivers battery

 

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Well, I redid the connectors for the W-T mod and I pulled the battery tray on the drivers side.  I only saw one ground in that area, it was a single stud with a bunch of wires in one ring connector.  It didn't look bad.  Did you all bolt that vacuum solenoid thing back up to the battery tray?  That thing was a pain in the @ss to get to.  I pulled all the connectors from the PCM and blew them all out and put some dielectric grease on them and reinstalled.  I will give it a few days and see if it comes back.  Fingers crossed!

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not quite in the same place as the G100 with the bunch of wires it's more on the round of the wheel liner

 

Yes the cruise can is a pain to get the strip with the 2 studs back in the right place AND to get the nuts on from underneath without pushing the POS up need arms 7ft long

 

Be careful calling that ground with the bunch of wires to it OK I did the same mine was not ok so pulled the battery and tray twice instead of once

 

I would advise redoing that one which is G100 and the other one which is close by and check the one on the top area of that fender

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2000 up should all be fly by wire cruise control. The vacuum motor for cruise was used for Automatic transmission mostly for the throttle valve cable. Manuals switched over to fly by wire being there is nothing mechanical needed to be move or pulled.

If you just take in account of all the little things that changed from 98.5 to 02 for our truck you would be surprised. 

  • Crank sensor relocated to cam sensor the actual cam sensor function was removed. 
  • Vacuum cruise to fly by wire for manuals. 
  • Full disc brakes from drum rear brakes.
  • RWAL upgraded to full 4 wheel ABS
  • 3 MAP sensor changes.
  • 53 block. Which they upgrade to fix this.
  • Killer dowel pin gear case change to prevent this. 

This is just a small sample of the changes in 4.5 years. 

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2 hours ago, hdpwipmonkey said:

I think its been long enough to call it fixed. 

Now if those electrical gremlins don't stick their heads up for a while it will be great.

So what steps did you do and which one do you think fixed it? 

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On 3/15/2021 at 7:50 PM, IBMobile said:

 

 

Now if those electrical gremlins don't stick their heads up for a while it will be great.

So what steps did you do and which one do you think fixed it? 

Replaced both batteries, cleaned up the terminals, cleaned up the one ground in front of the drivers side battery, and pulled the plugs from the PCM and cleaned and put dielectric grease on them and reinstalled.

The gremlins didn't stay away long.  I am now getting random drop outs of the tach and the CEL comes on and it has 0336 codes.  I just changed out the CKP sensor awhile back after it developed these same symptoms but now they are back.  Either the sensor I installed is a POS (I did get it from Autozone) or there is something else going on.

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