Jump to content
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com

    We can see you lurking about Mopar1973Man.Com reading articles and reading other member's posts. Are you trying to solve a problem with your Dodge / Ram Turbo Diesel Cummins? We have lots of helpful members and staff on the Mopar1973Man.Com and are willing to give guidance on how to fix or improve your truck. You know when you see good valued information here on Mopar1973Man.Com. We are not corporate owned like many of the other websites out there. Like Cummins Forum (VerticalScope Inc.). Mopar1973Man.Com is entirely privately owned and operated since 2004. Your subscription funds goes towards server maintenance and software maintenance. We happen to be one of the most friendliest and helpful websites for Cummins Owners in the world. Come join us and register and then pick a subscription plan

     

Truck shakes at 55-65mph, Grinding/vibration when coming to stop as well.


Recommended Posts

If the only thing wrong with the wheels is the missing weights there is probably nothing wrong the wheels. Did you on the inside of the back of the rim to see if they have the stick on stye of weights? All of mine are balanced that way with no weights on the edge of the rim.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

A couple times on different vehicles I have suspected that the wheel bearing was the issue, but even with it up on the lift I could not "feel" a problem.  No movement on the dial indicator nothing.

Mike, my unit bearings were both bad and both wheels were still tight!  You couldn't tell they were bad. I know this Boss cause I suspected something wasn't right..... kept jacking up the front and al

If you compared your Quad speedometer with a GPS unit and they agreed with each other, then I'm thinking you have 4.10 gears - which would be a good match with the tires you have on your truck.  

41 minutes ago, dripley said:

If the only thing wrong with the wheels is the missing weights there is probably nothing wrong the wheels. Did you on the inside of the back of the rim to see if they have the stick on stye of weights? All of mine are balanced that way with no weights on the edge of the rim.

Yes, they had the stick on type on the flat surface inside of the rim. I saw the dirt marks of where there were weights on at least one of the tires. That tire is also badly messed up from possibly an alignment issue and it has been eaten away at.

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, YeaImDylan said:

Yes, they had the stick on type on the flat surface inside of the rim. I saw the dirt marks of where there were weights on at least one of the tires. That tire is also badly messed up from possibly an alignment issue and it has been eaten away at.

Bad tires will definitely cause some issues with vibration and bad handling. I know nothing about your wheels but if you have not damaged any of them I would think they should fine and the tires are more the culprit. Probably not all the problem but major contributor. Me, I would replace tires and see what happens. But if you want new wheels too, buy some. It cant hurt anything.

Link to post
Share on other sites
51 minutes ago, dripley said:

Bad tires will definitely cause some issues with vibration and bad handling. I know nothing about your wheels but if you have not damaged any of them I would think they should fine and the tires are more the culprit. Probably not all the problem but major contributor. Me, I would replace tires and see what happens. But if you want new wheels too, buy some. It cant hurt anything.

Yeah the rims are probably fine minus the balancing but I find them ugly lol bout to drop like 2500 on new rims and tires and they'll come balanced so I'm pretty stoked for the new look as well as hopefully eliminating some problems!!

Link to post
Share on other sites
13 minutes ago, YeaImDylan said:

Yeah the rims are probably fine minus the balancing but I find them ugly lol bout to drop like 2500 on new rims and tires and they'll come balanced so I'm pretty stoked for the new look as well as hopefully eliminating some problems!!

I but tires a Discount Tire. They fix flats for free. Went in about 2 years ago with a leaky tire that turned out to be cracked rim. Well company policy would not allow them to put the tire back on the cracked rim. So I drove off on 4 new ones. Went from a free flat fix to 450 bucks of new rims. Was not in game plan that day.

 

But I will say they did not charge me for mounting my old tires to the new rims. All I paid for was the rims.

Edited by dripley
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/21/2021 at 2:46 PM, YeaImDylan said:

Hello all! So, I'm having suspension issues with the truck and really need them figured out. truck shakes at highway cruising speeds. It will smooth out if I move the wheel slightly (with the slack) and it'll get smoother and not be shaking. It's not death wobble like you see on YouTube but it is definitely annoying and NOT correct lol. I think tires may just need to be balanced and a good alignment. Front driver tire is also a weird wear (mud tires, each tread is up and down alternating, planning to get new wheels soon). Only thing I know that has been done to the truck suspension wise is a leveling kit.

 

To the next problem, when turning at slow speeds (parking lot speeds) the truck vibrates badly, more so when turning right. Also, when coming to a stop from like 5mph zone down to 0 it'll grind and rattle, even without brake engaged and the shake will be felt in all 3 pedals. I'm thinking wheel bearings? Rotors and all that I believe were replaced by P/O but not sure how good of a job they did due to other work on the truck....

 

Last thing is presumable powertrain related but I hear a noise right in the bellhousing... Doesn't sound like a deep knock like a beginning rod knock but it sounded the same as a video I found online and the guy said it was his flexplate being loose/cracked. They sounded almost identical but I have a flywheel due to it being a manual. Truck has a South Bend dual disc setup and the noise stays even with clutch pedal pressed. I'm not sure if the P/O replaced the flywheel or if it has 300k on it like the truck has or he did replace it and maybe didn't torque the bolts correctly.

 

Any and all suggestions is welcome! Whether it is for all 3 problems or just the one! 

 

Edit: Truck supposedly had all 4 ball joints replaced, calipers and rotors, front shocks at 300k, at 319k now.

 

The shaking at highway speeds could be the wheel weights. but I think its a light death wobble.. if i had to guess at what it could be its the steering gear box being loose and when you turn it removes the slop a bit. but i would think that both tires would would be scalloped (one of the actual terms for the alternating tread height you mentioned), not just drivers side.. that leads to ball joints or tie rod ends on the drivers side.

 

you said you are questioning the work put in by the previous owner.. if the ball joints were replaced with marginal quality ones it wouldn't surprise me that they wore out in 19k miles.  

 

with the 5 mph vibration, is it speed related? The faster you go the faster it goes? Wheel bearings usually dont stop making noise once they do.. and it seems to start at a higher speed and start lower and lower and get worse and louder as it keeps wearing. this one has me stumped.. 

 

Edit for side bar: How do you like your turbo? I'm mulling over getting that one with a 12cm^2 housing..

Edited by Silverwolf2691
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/23/2021 at 3:12 PM, Silverwolf2691 said:

 

The shaking at highway speeds could be the wheel weights. but I think its a light death wobble.. if i had to guess at what it could be its the steering gear box being loose and when you turn it removes the slop a bit. but i would think that both tires would would be scalloped (one of the actual terms for the alternating tread height you mentioned), not just drivers side.. that leads to ball joints or tie rod ends on the drivers side.

 

you said you are questioning the work put in by the previous owner.. if the ball joints were replaced with marginal quality ones it wouldn't surprise me that they wore out in 19k miles.  

 

with the 5 mph vibration, is it speed related? The faster you go the faster it goes? Wheel bearings usually dont stop making noise once they do.. and it seems to start at a higher speed and start lower and lower and get worse and louder as it keeps wearing. this one has me stumped.. 

 

Edit for side bar: How do you like your turbo? I'm mulling over getting that one with a 12cm^2 housing..

Hey all, posting an update!! Great news. Replaced the wheels and got it aligned and it solved all but one problem I had with the truck!! That’s for a new post I’ll be making shortly lol

 

So, replacing the wheels got rid of the grinding/ vibration on sharper turns at parking lot speed, no more wobble from unbalanced tire(s), and the no **** bolts for the steering box were loose and the guys at the alignment shop torqued those down for me. I believe that’s what the vibration/banging noise coming down from 15 to 10 mph was... damn P/O not doing some things right on this truck has screwed me.

 

As for the turbo, I’m liking it for the most part. For some reason though I’m only pushing 30lbs of boost though. I have a new boost leak due to the home made intake horn having holes in the weld as well as somehow losing a bolt 😒 got one ordered and will be putting that on after I get back from the field in 2 weeks. Once she hits about 10psi she hits pretty hard. But she does have some lag. I just got a race tune from TJ Frey for my quad and I’m wanting him to up it a bit. I feel my mods should be giving more power, or I’m just remembering how it was with a quad4k and 225hp sticks and no proper tuning whatsoever... just straight fuel into the engine.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Board Of Directors

The only way to really tell if you have bad wheel bearings, before they completely fail possibly throwing the truck off the road right or left, is to remove the wheel & rotor and turn the hub by hand. Your hand will be able to tell the smoothness in a good bearing or feel vibration or drag in the bearing going bad. That is the only way to tell and should be checked whenever possible.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Administrator

Jack the axle up and then rock the wheel in and out vertically if any movement is felt then the unit bearings should be replaced as a pair. If you feel left to right then its tie rods or drag link.

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Jack the axle up and then rock the wheel in and out vertically if any movement is felt then the unit bearings should be replaced as a pair. If you feel left to right then its tie rods or drag link.

 

4 hours ago, JAG1 said:

The only way to really tell if you have bad wheel bearings, before they completely fail possibly throwing the truck off the road right or left, is to remove the wheel & rotor and turn the hub by hand. Your hand will be able to tell the smoothness in a good bearing or feel vibration or drag in the bearing going bad. That is the only way to tell and should be checked whenever possible.

The alignment shop checked movement out, I thought I may have heard a noise on the right earring but I’m not sure. It may have just been a tool or something and they didn’t say anything about it. The left tire they said the upper ball joint wasn’t in perfect condition but they weren’t worried about it causing problems down the road and ruining my tires. I’ll probably be replacing it in the near future along with tie rods and other components in the front end. I’ll be making a post hopefully tonight in regards to a noise the truck is making on the mechanical side... I have a video too. Really praying it isn’t a rod or bearing. Hoping it’s the flywheel hitting or a spring came out and is knocking in that area. The noise is coming directly under where the clutch assembly sits.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Board Of Directors
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Jack the axle up and then rock the wheel in and out vertically if any movement is felt then the unit bearings should be replaced as a pair. If you feel left to right then its tie rods or drag link.

Mike, my unit bearings were both bad and both wheels were still tight!  You couldn't tell they were bad. I know this Boss cause I suspected something wasn't right..... kept jacking up the front and always found wheels were tight, no movement at all. It wasn't until I got the wheels and rotors off for a brake job I found both were bad by spinning the hub with my hand.  A lot of guys do not want the job of replacing those bearings. They can be tough but, after doing mine on both my trucks I learned a few tricks. One is you must first love a good challenge :thumb1: , avoiding Dieselfuture's cooler, resolve to get them off no matter how much difficulty.

 

Getting all 4 bolts out, use a grinder with a cutting wheel and cut thru the lobe where the bolts went thru, cutting about an 1/8th or 3/16ths away from the mounting surface allows you to get a steel wedge to go in between the bearing and the mounting surface. The steel wedge (chisels in my case) then stayed without holding them, with your hand now out of the way, you can start giving it a good hit with a small double jack. After you see it just start to come loose you know your getting it. On a bad one, you have to cut/ grind the opposite lobe and drive a wedge chisel there again. keep doing it and eventually you'll see a small hairline start to open and it will come off. Hope this helps.

Edited by JAG1
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

A couple times on different vehicles I have suspected that the wheel bearing was the issue, but even with it up on the lift I could not "feel" a problem.  No movement on the dial indicator nothing.

 

Mentioned this problem to my local parts guy (been in the business YEARS...pretty darn clever) and he said he had run into that also.  He suggested loosening the spindle nut, thereby removing the preload, and spinning the wheel.  (of course re-torque it if no issues) VOILA!!!  the bearing felt like hell.  Tighten the spindle nut, felt fine, loosen the spindle nut, felt like hell.  Pretty darn amazing.

 

Just my $0.02

 

HTH    Hag

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Administrator

Just another example I rode along with my buddy Sean Davis to Lewiston so he could have stitches pull from surgery on his shoulder. We went in his Chevy truck and he's running big over sized tires. Front axle was aligned. Front tires are cupping bad and shaking the steering wheel. The tire shop thinks the front shocks are wiped out so we had the rotated and move the problem to the rear and still bad. Like I told Sean should had them re-balance the tires. So at some point today I'll be installing shock on the front of his truck. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/5/2021 at 10:30 PM, YeaImDylan said:

As for the turbo, I’m liking it for the most part. For some reason though I’m only pushing 30lbs of boost though. I have a new boost leak due to the home made intake horn having holes in the weld as well as somehow losing a bolt 😒 got one ordered and will be putting that on after I get back from the field in 2 weeks. Once she hits about 10psi she hits pretty hard. But she does have some lag. I just got a race tune from TJ Frey for my quad and I’m wanting him to up it a bit. I feel my mods should be giving more power, or I’m just remembering how it was with a quad4k and 225hp sticks and no proper tuning whatsoever... just straight fuel into the engine.

 

I think your injectors are way too small for the s364.5. DAP recommended 7 x .013s with that turbo for sled pulling for me, but he also said 200s would work as well. Swap the 225s back in (if you have them still) and you might just have a monster on your hands.

 

In doing research over that turbo and its semi-cousin the Super B Special (64/71/14) I found that too small of injectors mimic too large of injectors. They can't build enough boost to cool the EGTs and spool suffers because of the lack of force on the turbine (ish.. cant put thoughts to words this morning..).

 

The boost leaks are probably not as impactful as you might think. @Mopar1973Man did some testing, on purpose or accidental I don't remember, but there was a bolt missing and he found little change to EGTs or boost. I had the same experience with my truck. had to drive with a plug missing for a boost sensor or something and besides the whistle from the hole, nothing changed.. not saying leave them, but its not as detrimental as people say they are.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Administrator

Yeah just to prove the boost leak I unhooked the waste gate hose left it open then pulled one manifold bolt I only lost 5 psi total from 45 as a top. Noise very audible but no real change in EGTs.

 

I've had a bolt blow out one before towing but no big issue. Here the air blowing out and still drove home.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

 

I think your injectors are way too small for the s364.5. DAP recommended 7 x .013s with that turbo for sled pulling for me, but he also said 200s would work as well. Swap the 225s back in (if you have them still) and you might just have a monster on your hands.

 

In doing research over that turbo and its semi-cousin the Super B Special (64/71/14) I found that too small of injectors mimic too large of injectors. They can't build enough boost to cool the EGTs and spool suffers because of the lack of force on the turbine (ish.. cant put thoughts to words this morning..).

 

The boost leaks are probably not as impactful as you might think. @Mopar1973Man did some testing, on purpose or accidental I don't remember, but there was a bolt missing and he found little change to EGTs or boost. I had the same experience with my truck. had to drive with a plug missing for a boost sensor or something and besides the whistle from the hole, nothing changed.. not saying leave them, but its not as detrimental as people say they are.

With all this being said, how were people achieving 45psi on a 64mm with stock or 90 horse injectors?? Maybe I need to check valve lash? I’m having TJ do more on the race tune since he said he thinks he can pull more out of it after I told him what I was getting with the current setup. 
 

As for Mopar Man’s test he did, I was aware of that and pretty blown away by the result. I remember he commented on an older post of mine and told me about his experiment when I was asking how much a boost leak affects things. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Who's TJ and why is he tunning your truck when you can do it yourself it sounds like you have quad with v2 :think:

I would still check for bost leaks with a spray bottle water soap mix, all the boots connections intake turbo itself. You'll need to make a little adapter which is easy to do bolt it on turbo inlet, pressurize it to like 20 psi and start looking for leaks. You could have a bad intercooler too.

How are you seeing boost with quad or mechanical gauge. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Administrator
10 hours ago, YeaImDylan said:

With all this being said, how were people achieving 45psi on a 64mm with stock or 90 horse injectors??

 

I'm running 7 x 0.010 +150 HP DAP injectors these are popped to 320 bar not 305 bar.

HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) this so close ot the same as HE351 except my is a 12cm2 housing not a 9cm2...

Then my latest tune which is using all the timing available. 3,000 RPM  is set at 29.5 degrees.

 

Turbo is capable of about 45 to 49 (absolute MAX). I know this is not optimal for me but...

 

Boost leaks are not SUPER CRITICAL like 99% of the people make it out to be. You can have an audible boost leak and still tow and keep driving without EGT's blowing through the roof. Lose a bolt out of the manifold yup you can hear it but EGT's rise a bit towing still doing highway speed climbing a 6% grade. Then the other test actually making a huge boost leak and standing on the throttle heading up the highway and listen to it blow air everywhere but still able to make 40 PSI

 

Tuning can impact boost quite a bit. Like being retard will help build boost more. This why on the Quadzilla you need a good health drop of retard in the 1500 band. Then from there on out use the load-based and Low PSI timing reduct. These two will build your boost across the tune when you go from cruise to heavy throttle. Once the high load is over it will flip back to the load base to till the cruise limit can be reached and then advance to cruise state. 

 

The fuel map is just a fuel map. There is a few tricks there too. 

 

Find your common cruise realm For me it's 6% to 16% grades around me. My cruise state is wide so I defuel for smoke from 0 to 5 PSI. Now from 5 PSI to 15 PSI is all 100% stock. Nothing more. This is my cruise state. Well, all started out just ramping straight up from defuel to 150% without a cruise state. Now here is my trick for fuel and getting the wiretap and CANBus to run together. After your cruise state and CANBus start climbing. So I've got my Pump Low Boost Scale PSI set for 15 PSI and the CANBus starts it climb at 15 PSI now both the fuel map are stacked and now you have SERIOUS power. This is something most don't do they set the wiretap down at 5 PSI to get the tires to smoke. Don't fool yourself with this design... I told my girlfriend @Wet Vetteshe couldn't drive the truck with this much power... She told me to pull over... Chinese Fire Drill... She hopped in and belted up and she said HANG ON! She launched in 2nd boost built at 15 PSI and tires started to smoke as the wiretap hit. Then grabs third and she lights the tires again. Then shift to 4th and gets a small bark. Then grabs 5th and continues up past 85 MPH. She wasn't joking around either!

 

:burnout:

 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, YeaImDylan said:

With all this being said, how were people achieving 45psi on a 64mm with stock or 90 horse injectors?? Maybe I need to check valve lash? I’m having TJ do more on the race tune since he said he thinks he can pull more out of it after I told him what I was getting with the current setup. 

 

You can get 40 psi on an hx35, I can push that range with 50s and no wire tap.. In all honesty, I could probably push even more boost if the wastegate was wired shut. At about 38psi of boost I think the drive pressure pushes the wastegate open because even hooked to the sled that's all the boost I was making, even with the boost controller cranked all the way closed. This is not recommended however, because the turbo is out of its map at that range. Its overheating the air its pushing into the intercooler.

 

Also, +90hp injectors sounds like 3rd gen/common rail sizing. Common rails can run a lot larger turbo on a lot less due to more stock fueling capability and the huge amount of timing control they have. Hell, 6.7s can run an s475 and larger when they go to a second gen swap. 

 

Second gen sizing is more like: rv275s (+40s), +50s, +75s, +100s, etc. there are a few odd balls out there like F1/Flux Diesel, with +60s, +90s, and 110s, but more the exception than the rule. all those numbers are ±25hp approximately as well.

 

the p-pumps and vp44s in order to get power out of them in a competitive sense, need big injectors and lots of air and become undrivable in some cases due to EGTs, smoke, or hazing at idle. Common rails can be extremely competitive then drive home with the turn of a switch. Quadzilla finally gave us a taste of that with the V2 tuning, maybe not as fast as a switch but still on the fly.   

 

@YeaImDylan, this question isn't directed at you specifically , but why is valve lash the first thing people go to for lack of power? Mostly it just quiets down some of the rattle, at least for me.. 

 

hopefully last thoughts here, you should try for a daily driving tune first, because a cleaner burning tune that spools well and performs well in every day life can be turned into a race tune very quickly just by just adding some canbus and wire tap, unless you need something very specialty.

 

sorry for the novel, I've just had to look though a lot of the same issue of finding all 3rd gen stuff while looking for 2nd gen stuff. When people start saying that an s369 can spool like stock it definitely isn't second gen lol

Link to post
Share on other sites
×
×
  • Create New...