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BlackRam2500

Lift Pump Recommendations?

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It appears my lift pump is dead. I pulled the relay and jumpered the correct connectors, heard contacts click in, but no pump running. I'm on a budget (= low funding) and would like a decent quality unit that can bolt in, no huge modifications to my fuel system. Also, a recommended fuel pressure gauge installation set up would be appreciated.

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I started this many years ago when Fass was selling their system for like $600. I bought a Holley Blue fuel pump off Ebay for like $45 dollars. I mounted the holley blue under the truck close to the fuel tank on the frame rail. Cut the main supply line ( the big one ). Use (2) 3/8ths fuel hoses and (2) 3/8ths hose barbs and (2) small hose clamp to splice the pump in. Use the + power wire on the lift pump to feed power to the holley blue and use the screw on the pump bracket as you ground. $60 total and your garunteed 20 - 30 PSI to your injector pump even with a dead lift pump. My set up has been on for 7 years and I still have 22 psi at idle and 15 PSI at Wide open throttle and have yet to replace a VP with 186,000 on the odometer. I've been pushing 400 + hp for all 7 years. JG

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Sorry to say there is no quality bolt in replacement for the 2nd gen trucks. If your strapped for cash I would recommend a Raptor 100. I believe they are around $360 now. Yes it is a lot! But, faulty stock fuel pumps will take out the VP. That is a $1000 item plus labor. I use an Isspro mechanical fuel pressure gauge. If you go with a mechanical gauge discard the isolator and use a needle valve instead. Have you checked to make sure that the fuel filter is not plugged? Have you checked visually that no fuel is coming out of the outlet side of your existing pump? Good luck!

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Most will recommend a Rator, FASS, Airdog. Here is a a couple of links for some. http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_nkw=airdog%20raptor%20fuel%20system%20cummins%20150%20gph&_sacat=See-All-Categories&_trksid=m194&ssPageName=STRK:MEFSRCHX:SRCH http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_nkw=dodge%20ram%20external%20fuel%20pump&_sacat=See-All-Categories&_trksid=m194&ssPageName=STRK:MEFSRCHX:SRCH The first is a Raptor, the second is an airtex, just a step above stock. The airtex will buy you time to get a better pump. Then you will have a backup if you ever need one.

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As oposed to:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PROCOMP-Blue-Electric-Fuel-Pump-130-GPH-Holley-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem336198f05cQQitemZ220680745052QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Don't Do IT!!!

Why try to keep up with the Jones and their High Dollar over Priced set-ups. I designed mine from scratch useing my brain not my pocketbook!!! I have always been against those systems because they are over priced and work no better than a pump and filter which cost less than $80. There is nothing to them except Flashy annodized aluminum and a name.

The object here is GET the FUEL from the TANK to the INJECTOR PUMP!!! Not Rocket Science.

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It appears my lift pump is dead. I pulled the relay and jumpered the correct connectors, heard contacts click in, but no pump running. I'm on a budget (= low funding) and would like a decent quality unit that can bolt in, no huge modifications to my fuel system. Also, a recommended fuel pressure gauge installation set up would be appreciated.

I just replaced my factory lift pump because everyone said they were crap, maybe they are...I don't know. I also replaced my Isspro mechanical fuel pressure guage. I wanted to add an Isspro oil pressure guage but could not find one that matched the fuel pressure guage. So I just bought Autometer guages that matched. I have for sale One Isspro mechanical fuel Pressure Guage complete with sending unit Isolator/hoses and fittings/ one hole pillar pod and factory lift pump with approx 500 miles on it for $175.00 plus shipping.

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Truck ran fine on a short drive home from sitting a week. I attempted to change the fuel filter (wrong one given at the store), and put the old one back. I attempted to bleed the line, but heard no pump noise. Got just a dribble of fuel, then nothing time after time, though I did get some air on the first few attempts. After reading the FSM, I wondered if the ECM had killed the pump power due to no start. Easy way around it is to pull the relay (causing CEL and code) and jumper the relay out. No pump noise. I am going to check for voltage at the pump connector tomorrow, and if there is no voltage, look for wiring problem. However, I am not thinking this is the problem, as that would be "too easy". At 108k, I think the stock pump may have simply given up. Hopefully my coincidental swap of the fuel filter has saved me the VP44 headaches. That said, I am simply looking for the best fuel pump for the dollar. jgendr, how did you wire the pump? Is it tapped into the stock pump wiring, or something else?

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As oposed to:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PROCOMP-Blue-Electric-Fuel-Pump-130-GPH-Holley-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem336198f05cQQitemZ220680745052QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Don't Do IT!!!

Why try to keep up with the Jones and their High Dollar over Priced set-ups. I designed mine from scratch useing my brain not my pocketbook!!! I have always been against those systems because they are over priced and work no better than a pump and filter which cost less than $80. There is nothing to them except Flashy annodized aluminum and a name.

The object here is GET the FUEL from the TANK to the INJECTOR PUMP!!! Not Rocket Science.

I like your way of thinking.

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Hey! jgendr is exactly right! I bought a brand new Holley Blue fuel pump w/out regulator on ebay for $71 at my door. I was going from 7-9 psi at idle to 22-25 psi now. It is cheap and people talk crap about it but it is the best way to go financially. If you want, you can mount an inline fuel filter between tank and holley blue mounted on the frame. It isn't necessarily needed but may keep your nerves down. I also mounted a fuel pres guage and a toggle switch to turn the pump on. When outside temp gets hot, sometimes it doesnt crank until 3rd try. What I did(Credit to jgendr), mounted that toggle switch so I start my truck normally and as soon as it starts, I hit my switch and turn on the Holley Blue. It has been working great for probably 5 months now. Awesome idea!

--- Update to the previous post...

Just curious where in PA your from BlackRam2500? I just moved out here to Utah in February but am from south central PA near Bedford.

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That said, I am simply looking for the best fuel pump for the dollar. jgendr, how did you wire the pump? Is it tapped into the stock pump wiring, or something else?

About 2 years ago, I bought a 2001.5 truck for the wife. Her's is stock. The lift pump was shot on it when I bought it. Same situation as yours. I installed an Airtex E 7153 lift pump on it initially in the OEM stock location on that driver's side of the engine. It ran fine, made good fuel pressure, and was problem free. http://www.autopartsexpress.com/searchitem.epc?lookfor=E7153 To make it easy for her to monitor fuel pressure, I installed a fuel pressure guage on the steering column. It just slips over top of the existing steering wheel column and used 3M double stick tape. I left the tape off so I could easily remove it. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Fuel-Pressure-Tester-with-Schrader-Connection-p/scp.htm I installed this gauge in the 0-30 psi version in the gauge pod. Works like a champ. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ISSPRO-EV-fuel-pressure-Kit-p/issfp.htm Later on I decided to install the Air Dog 150 on my truck so we removed the Vulcan Big Line Lift Pump Relocation Kit: http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/vpps9804.htm from my truck and installed it on hers. This allowed us to relocate the new lift pump from the stock OEM location to the frame just below the fuel tank and also made it very easy to tap into the fuel system and plumb up the fuel pressure gauge. The Airtex pump made about 17 psi in the OEM location and about 19 psi relocated to the frame rail at IDLE. During regular driving with a clean fuel filter it will pull the pressure down to about 12 psi but usually stays in the range of about 13 - 17 psi. It also held pressure better and longer on hard pulls relocated under the fuel tank on the frame rail. If money is in short supply and you need a reliable and reasonably priced lift pump that you can easily replace (read drop in place of the old lift pump) get the Airtex E7153 pump. The Airtex E7153 is a good & reliable lift pump for a STOCK engine that does not tow or pull really heavy. It is NOT even in the same league and the Air Dog or FASS or other higher performance pumps. It IS a very economical and reliable replacement lift pump. Hope this helps.

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Hey gassernomore,Thanks for the strong Rec. for the Raptor. That's what I'm getting & I like the fact that it's a gearator pump too!Thanks,Dave

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Hey gassernomore, Thanks for the strong Rec. for the Raptor. That's what I'm getting & I like the fact that it's a gearator pump too! Thanks, Dave

The Raptor is a good pump but at $365 you may as well pay the extra $135 and get the full Air Dog 150 or 165 and get full benefit of the fuel de-aeration, water separation, and 2-3 micron fuel filter in my opinion :2cents: especially if you are going to make any type of engine performance modifications.

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--- Update to the previous post...

Just curious where in PA your from BlackRam2500? I just moved out here to Utah in February but am from south central PA near Bedford.

I'm north central, just southeast of Williamsport.

--- Update to the previous post...

Thanks for all the comments. Due to time and cash considerations, I decided to go with the Airtex unit and keep the stock location for now. I plan on going to a Holley (probably black) and getting a fuel pressure gauge on in the spring. I know this may not make a lot of sense to some, but I don't see loads of HP in the future (300 would be the most), and I have a little one that needs stuff like food and diapers. Once I get out of the financial rut I'm in, I'll start doing the mods to the fuel system to get more reliability.

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I'm north central, just southeast of Williamsport.

--- Update to the previous post...

Thanks for all the comments. Due to time and cash considerations, I decided to go with the Airtex unit and keep the stock location for now. I plan on going to a Holley (probably black) and getting a fuel pressure gauge on in the spring. I know this may not make a lot of sense to some, but I don't see loads of HP in the future (300 would be the most), and I have a little one that needs stuff like food and diapers. Once I get out of the financial rut I'm in, I'll start doing the mods to the fuel system to get more reliability.

Food and diapers will slow things down for sure.

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I'm north central, just southeast of Williamsport.

--- Update to the previous post...

Thanks for all the comments. Due to time and cash considerations, I decided to go with the Airtex unit and keep the stock location for now. I plan on going to a Holley (probably black) and getting a fuel pressure gauge on in the spring. I know this may not make a lot of sense to some, but I don't see loads of HP in the future (300 would be the most), and I have a little one that needs stuff like food and diapers. Once I get out of the financial rut I'm in, I'll start doing the mods to the fuel system to get more reliability.

Hey,

I understand that. The youngin's come first. Just a bit of advice on the when you get the Airtex pump. The pump will come with a 90 elbow tube that slips over the end of the pump. DO NOT put it on until you are sure you will need it. It IS used in the OEM stock location though. Once the elbow tube is slid on and snaps in place, it requires a special tool to remove it.

As me how I know? :banghead::lol::lmao:

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As it turns out, the pump waiting for me yesterday was a new carter unit. It does pump pretty well at this point. However, truck is running again, and thats what counts at this juncture.more questions:What gauge setup are people running?Is there a kit for the banjos and the bolts? I was definitely annoyed when I discovered how narrow the fuel flow was in the banjos.

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any one got a part number on the holley blue pumps and can they be wired to the ignition on hot wire

do a search on Ebay for holey blue. You'll get a whole list of them. as far as hooking them up, I used the hot wire off the lift pump to feed the power to the holey blue. the stock lift pump is controller by the ecm through a relay. so if the stock lift pump is running the holley blue also runs. make sure you use both pumps or bypass the stock lift pump all together and go straigh to the filter from the holley blue it's your choice.

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As it turns out, the pump waiting for me yesterday was a new carter unit. It does pump pretty well at this point. However, truck is running again, and thats what counts at this juncture. more questions: What gauge setup are people running? Is there a kit for the banjos and the bolts? I was definitely annoyed when I discovered how narrow the fuel flow was in the banjos.

The Carter pumps are JUNK. Some last, some are bad right out of the box on rare ocassion. VERY few last for any reasonable amount of time and they deliver marjinal pressure. Install a guage. They are just not worth using to feed a $1,000 injector pump in my opinion.

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Personally after doing the study work on the Carter, Carter HP, and the Holley pumps... I hate to say none of these pump are worth buying to feed a $1000 dollar injection pump. Holley come up short because the fact all holley pumps are not designed to be used for diesel fuel. Then they are made from the very same design of a carter. So the Holley has the exact same weakness as a carter pump except the regulator is better thats all. But the actual motor life is typically short at about a year or two and it fails. Thing is to be truthful there is so very few pump that are actually designed for diesel and can keep up with Bocsh requirements. That bring up another tidbit what is Bosch's requirements??? Bosch's Requirements is that at least 70% of the fuel must be return to the fuel tank to properly cool and lubricate a VP44 injection pump. Ok... That said... Now I know typical stock truck can draw upwards of 20-22 GPH worth of burn rate. So if the stock pump is only rated for 35 GPH so that means 20 / 35 = 57% of the fuel volume is comsumed and only 43% is being returned... No enough... But now increase the fuel pump to say 100 GPH and now do the math. 20 / 100 = 20% so that means 80% is being return under the heaviest load and plenty of cooling and lubrication is occuring. But there is a hitch to this Now the lift pump has to be able to keep above 14 PSI at WOT to keep the cooling and lubricating going. Once you start dropping below 14 PSI the overflow valve on the return line start to close that means reduced cooling and lubrication so once the fuel pressure falls to 10 PSI the valve is closed and all extra cooling and lubrication is gone...

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I'm sure the Carter is not a great pump. On the other hand, the original one lasted over 100,000 miles. Thats nothing to sneeze at. Until I win the lottery or find a better job, there won't be any fancy anodized stuff under there. I'd like to put a gauge on it, but so far, no one has mentioned a gauge they think is worth buying.

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[quote name='

But now increase the fuel pump to say 100 GPH and now do the math. 20 / 100 = 20% so that means 80% is being return under the heaviest load and plenty of cooling and lubrication is occuring.

But there is a hitch to this Now the lift pump has to be able to keep above 14 PSI at WOT to keep the cooling and lubricating going. Once you start dropping below 14 PSI the overflow valve on the return line start to close that means reduced cooling and lubrication so once the fuel pressure falls to 10 PSI the valve is closed and all extra cooling and lubrication is gone...[/quote']

That's why you're the GURU here!

GO CTD,

Dave

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