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Hey guys was just looking on you tube and saw some guys are making home made controllers for the 351 ve, dose any one have any experince with this, good, bad, or anything:shrug: thanks:thumb1:

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yeh thats what I have been looking at, but now I found a few guys on you tube that have been making homeade controllers and was just wondering how well they work

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I believe that the homemade controllers are manual or boost controlled. The only electronic one I know of is the Fleece performance version. It can be tuned to what you want with your truck. I was going to go this route but wasn't 100% happy with some of the ways the controller works but have read lots of good reviews on it.

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I believe that the homemade controllers are manual or boost controlled. The only electronic one I know of is the Fleece performance version. It can be tuned to what you want with your truck. I was going to go this route but wasn't 100% happy with some of the ways the controller works but have read lots of good reviews on it.

So what benifits does the electronic controller have over a manual controller, don't they both achieve the same outcome:shrug:

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An electronic controller will set the VNT vanes according to load, boost, rpm, TPS, etc; whereas a manual controller only sets them for 1 variable.. boost is most common with a manual cable being the other. IMHO a manual controller is a waste of time. The nice thing about the fleece is it fully automatic, but also has a dial to adjust boost up or down about 10% (trying to recall the %, been over a year) from the loaded value.. So you can make the turbo more aggressive for towing or racing, or less aggressive for highway cruising for economy.

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An electronic controller will set the VNT vanes according to load, boost, rpm, TPS, etc; whereas a manual controller only sets them for 1 variable.. boost is most common with a manual cable being the other. IMHO a manual controller is a waste of time. The nice thing about the fleece is it fully automatic, but also has a dial to adjust boost up or down about 10% (trying to recall the %, been over a year) from the loaded value.. So you can make the turbo more aggressive for towing or racing, or less aggressive for highway cruising for economy.

So do you think this is a good way to go or should I look a hybrid 35/40 or just a 40. thanks for the input:thumb1:

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You get the flow of a 40 and the spool of a 35, and better than a 35/40. You also get an integrated exhaust brake. The setup isn't really all that much cash and everyone seems to love it.

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You get the flow of a 40 and the spool of a 35, and better than a 35/40. You also get an integrated exhaust brake. The setup isn't really all that much cash and everyone seems to love it.

At the moment on my engine is HE351cw which comes on the 04.5-07 CR. The wheels in that turbo are the same as HE 351vgts. The variable ex/housing and the exhaust brake is just what us towing guys need. But there is one problem that I see from my current setup. I still haze to much from 3 up on the Edge Jiuce/attu/cts. To fix that and to keep the police at bay, I am getting the HTTurbo 64mm upgrade. That takes avaliable air from 62lbs to around 82lbs so that should fix the haze. :thumb1:

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At the moment on my engine is HE351cw which comes on the 04.5-07 CR. The wheels in that turbo are the same as HE 351vgts. The variable ex/housing and the exhaust brake is just what us towing guys need. But there is one problem that I see from my current setup. I still haze to much from 3 up on the Edge Jiuce/attu/cts. To fix that and to keep the police at bay, I am getting the HTTurbo 64mm upgrade. That takes avaliable air from 62lbs to around 82lbs so that should fix the haze. :thumb1:

What's your truck? The HE351CW has the same comp wheel as the VE, but the turbine wheels are different.

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Not really a truck. Google WB Holden Panel Van. It came with 3.3 liter straight 6, so you can see the cummins was a tight fit over the little 6. If i can learn how to post photos, I will put them up. Maybe micheal could help me out with that, Thanks Greg.

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Not really a truck. Google WB Holden Panel Van. It came with 3.3 liter straight 6, so you can see the cummins was a tight fit over the little 6. If i can learn how to post photos, I will put them up. Maybe micheal could help me out with that, Thanks Greg.

Maybe too much for a 3.3? What else have you done to it? OK guys, I've been asking if anyone had info on this conversion. Can anyone post a link? Thanks, Dave

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Hey guys was just looking on you tube and saw some guys are making home made controllers for the 351 ve, dose any one have any experince with this, good, bad, or anything:shrug: thanks:thumb1:

What should I look up to check this out on YouTube? 5.9 Cummins w a Ve351VGT?:pant: Dave

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Hey guys, I havent posted in quite some time and don't regularly (sorry) but I maybe able to shed some light on some of the questions that have come up.This swap is viewed by some as good and some as bad, I think that if your after huge power gains and have heard that it will provide that, you might want to consider a single more suited for the precieved goal or go to twins if you can afford it.Most of the negatives that I have heard of are related to TURBO issues, ie...collar sticks with heavy soot build up so if your running larger injectors that don't atomize as well or you consistanly roll coal, you will need to consider this. Also people have experienced snaped shafts with hard pushing of the turbo and or quick snap or letting off...mostly with "high HP" mods...Also people with stock motors have said that while spool up is like a HY without some fueling it is pointless...no drop in egts, no power gains either on a dyno or seat of the pants. Like was mentioned, I feel that keeping the electronic's incorporated is better than not...but that brings us to another issue...INSTALL.There are at this time no other options that I am aware of other than Fleece...which I purchased (I guess now would be the time I say I have EVERYTHING needed to install, I just have not put it together) AH is correct (althougt it is VGT not VNT, V Geometry T not V Nozzel T) they (fleece) access through the MAP to gather throttle position, boost, load etc etc...and he is correct they do have access to 0-100% sweep of the collar...the factory preset from fleece is 95% of max exhaust brake closure which is where they felt it was best suited for our trucks...you can access the tables via usb and an excel spread sheet but you must contact them in order to do so (most likely to explain why, as they don't need warrenty claims based upon opperator error) AH is also correct in that you have access to on the fly adjustment up to 20% (thats the number you were forgeting) for loading or not..ie if you wanted to build boost sooner increase it or if you want to drop boost lower it.OK off track...back to install...this is where it can get troublesome and where I have or had hit my snag...If you have a 4wd your gonna have decisions to make...Our trucks can take advantage of the 6.7 exhaust manifold which is nice because it lowers the turbo and electronic actuater but the problem is our heat exhanger sits right there so that blocks it...a Manual will not have the heat exchanger so if you have a manual your golden..the preferd method is get the turbo with exhaust manifold and DP it will all fit you just need EGR block off's which can be had anywhere or you can make them. If you have a 4wd...boy oh boy...you can either remove your heat exchanger and get a different one (expensive, a lot of plumbing) or you can like me...keep your 24v manifold in place and either plug and re-tap the case exhaust housing of the VGT to match the T3 bolt pattern, Purchase a T4i to T3 adapter (T4i also have heard it as WGMT or WGMT works not sure) In either case, you will need a few other things, like a HX40 down pipe becasue you cant use the 6.7 anymore (or any other 4") you will need new boots and reducers for the inter-cooling, you can use the factory oil feed, and you take advantage of the cooling through the heater core lines right there (you will need to purchase more HC line 5/8")Also and for the big finish...if your using the 24v manifold and you want to use the electronics to contoll the EB function you are gonna be to close to the shock tower for it all to fit..so your gonna need to mod that as well...most of the guys are (I am too) slightly clocking the exhaust housing (no more than 15* off verticle for oil draining) and clocking the compressor housing to line up the intercooler piping but the actuator housing is still to close so we are removing the shock tower and building a flat plate drilled to the 3 bolt pattern with a center hole for a new shorter shock...or like me (possibily) removing the passenger side shock all together, I have a dual shock due to my lift and with the outer 2nd shock I will be able to retain proper travel even without an inner shock. SO....CLEAR AS MUD right....All in all, if your after a HIGH HP turbo out of this I suggest spending an extra 200 dollars and do it right with a good single....becasue right now i am into this turbo, boots, reducers, AN fittings, Fleece controller, Down pipe, Exhaust Manifold Adapter, Gaskets (new T3 and T4i), heater core line about 800...and I most likely have another 100-200 in fab work to go...Shock tower mod needs to be finished and I may purchase a shorter shock (thats the extra 200)If your after a Good turbo that will produce a proven 450 HP truck with a box and injectors...plus a EB to help with towing, and want it for under a grand...this might work.Thats what I am after...I know and went into this knowing I am not gonna reach 600 hp, all I wanted was a good turbo that produced a EB...I couldnt have gotten an EB for under a grand, and as it stands I am getting a better turbo than the HX I have now....Any Qestions please feel free...I will since posting this check in on it....I am not a mechanic, and have little knowledge of turbos, but I do RESEARCH something before I step in it.Jake

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well i think you made up for not posting for a while. that is a lot of work.:stuned: good luck with it guys.

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well i think you made up for not posting for a while. that is a lot of work.:stuned: good luck with it guys.

Thanks Jake for your :2cents:! So where did your purchase all of your parts? Like 6.7 manifold, used? Also the351 turbo? I was interested in finding out the details you provided.:thumb1: Thanks again, Dave

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Hi Dave.Yes bought mine exhaust manifold from Ashley Black, goes by BlacksDiesel on Comp Diesel. Howie on ebay, just search HE351VE, is a great guy and have bought 2 of him. The second one had a ding on the front cover and HTT wouldnt do the upgrade to that so Howie sorced another front cover and shipped for free.

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Thanks Jake for your :2cents:! So where did your purchase all of your parts? Like 6.7 manifold, used? Also the351 turbo? I was interested in finding out the details you provided.:thumb1: Thanks again, Dave

Dave, I purchased my Turbo from my mechanic (who happens to be close friend) so it was local, he knew the truck knew the milage and condition, if you can find one local that in my mind is best...but as mentioned Ebay works, CompD, DieselTruckResource etc..usually have them in the classified. As for Manifold, I will not be using the 6.7 that option is reserved for Manual trucks...because it set's the Turbo down (towards the ground) for us 2nd gen guys, which confilicts with Auto trucks and our Transmission Heat Exhanger. I will opt for the Adapter method, there is a guy on Ebay that currently makes an adapter for the T3 to T4i conversion. The Turbo Exhaust housing is funky on these turbos..it is a "cross" or "hybrid" flange...they call it a T4i I have a CAD for sizing it...upon request. You could also seperate the 3 sections and then have the Exhaust Housing (turbo) plugged, machined, drilled and tapped for the T3 bolt pattern. For me it will be less expensive to go the adapter route as I do not have access to a mill to machine or drill press to re-drill and tap. Other parts are with Links.... These two links are for Coolent hook ups...you will need a hose clamp..it isnt perfect but will work w/o leaks. Obviously you will need 5/8" Heater Core hose. TWO EACH of these M16x1.5 adapter: From this website use PN 9919EFJ for -8AN http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index...p=&dept=Metric Then barbed -8AN fitting PN FBM1440 is an economical choice, there's several -8AN here http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index...ck!_Hose!_Ends HX 40 Down pipe if your not using the 6.7 Exhaust Manifold. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Diamond-Eye-4-Flang-HX-40-Down-Pipe-Without-Clamp-1994-2002-Dodge-Cummins-Truck-/110761201763?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19c9e1d063 Exhaust Manifold Adapter from this guy..I have spoken with him on the phone..VERY nice guy..we may try to come up with something a bit slimmer as it sits...with gaskets and both pieces to the adapter it pushes the turbo away 1 9/16" away from stock location...which causes problesm with the shock tower. http://www.ebay.com/itm/VGT-HE351-HE351VE-Turbo-Flange-Adapter-T3-manifold-/140609674441?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item20bcfd5cc9 Obviosuly...a Fleece controller...from Fleece Obviously a TURBO... Oil Lines will work STOCK...what you have already... I think thats It...I will check my work bench and make sure thats all that I have.... Other items that will need adapting are the SHOCK TOWER and Shock....if your an AUTO 4x4 and I will cover that once I get it figured out for myself.... Jake Already found other items....IC boots....You will need... 2.75" to 3" 45* bent boot http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=14&products_id=904&osCsid=a5c66b92981e0436dc23e5ae00fc4245 A Joiner... http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=9&products_id=114&osCsid=a5c66b92981e0436dc23e5ae00fc4245 3" T-bolt clamp http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=104&osCsid=a5c66b92981e0436dc23e5ae00fc4245 2.75" T-bolt clamp http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=103&osCsid=a5c66b92981e0436dc23e5ae00fc4245
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Hi Dave.

Yes bought mine exhaust manifold from Ashley Black, goes by BlacksDiesel on Comp Diesel. Howie on ebay, just search HE351VE, is a great guy and have bought 2 of him. The second one had a ding on the front cover and HTT wouldnt do the upgrade to that so Howie sorced another front cover and shipped for free.

Nice, thanks for the parts hunt secrets!:thumb1:

--- Update to the previous post...

I bought mine from competitiondiesel in the classifieds, but see them for sale on ebay as well.

Cool, Thanks!:thumb1:

--- Update to the previous post...

Dave,

I purchased my Turbo from my mechanic (who happens to be close friend) so it was local, he knew the truck knew the milage and condition, if you can find one local that in my mind is best...but as mentioned Ebay works, CompD, DieselTruckResource etc..usually have them in the classified. As for Manifold, I will not be using the 6.7 that option is reserved for Manual trucks...because it set's the Turbo down (towards the ground) for us 2nd gen guys, which confilicts with Auto trucks and our Transmission Heat Exhanger.

I will opt for the Adapter method, there is a guy on Ebay that currently makes an adapter for the T3 to T4i conversion. The Turbo Exhaust housing is funky on these turbos..it is a "cross" or "hybrid" flange...they call it a T4i I have a CAD for sizing it...upon request. You could also seperate the 3 sections and then have the Exhaust Housing (turbo) plugged, machined, drilled and tapped for the T3 bolt pattern. For me it will be less expensive to go the adapter route as I do not have access to a mill to machine or drill press to re-drill and tap.

Other parts are with Links....

These two links are for Coolent hook ups...you will need a hose clamp..it isnt perfect but will work w/o leaks. Obviously you will need 5/8" Heater Core hose. TWO EACH of these

M16x1.5 adapter: From this website use PN 9919EFJ for -8AN http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index...p=&dept=Metric

Then barbed -8AN fitting PN FBM1440 is an economical choice, there's several -8AN here http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index...ck!_Hose!_Ends

HX 40 Down pipe if your not using the 6.7 Exhaust Manifold.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Diamond-Eye-4-Flang-HX-40-Down-Pipe-Without-Clamp-1994-2002-Dodge-Cummins-Truck-/110761201763?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19c9e1d063

Exhaust Manifold Adapter from this guy..I have spoken with him on the phone..VERY nice guy..we may try to come up with something a bit slimmer as it sits...with gaskets and both pieces to the adapter it pushes the turbo away 1 9/16" away from stock location...which causes problesm with the shock tower.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VGT-HE351-HE351VE-Turbo-Flange-Adapter-T3-manifold-/140609674441?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item20bcfd5cc9

Obviosuly...a Fleece controller...from Fleece

Obviously a TURBO...

Oil Lines will work STOCK...what you have already...

I think thats It...I will check my work bench and make sure thats all that I have....

Other items that will need adapting are the SHOCK TOWER and Shock....if your an AUTO 4x4 and I will cover that once I get it figured out for myself....

Jake

Already found other items....IC boots....You will need...

2.75" to 3" 45* bent boot

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=14&products_id=904&osCsid=a5c66b92981e0436dc23e5ae00fc4245

A Joiner...

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=9&products_id=114&osCsid=a5c66b92981e0436dc23e5ae00fc4245

3" T-bolt clamp

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=104&osCsid=a5c66b92981e0436dc23e5ae00fc4245

2.75" T-bolt clamp

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=103&osCsid=a5c66b92981e0436dc23e5ae00fc4245

Man Jake, you are one for details, I only wished you lived closer in like Pitts Pa. Instead oif Pittsburg, Ca!

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