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Anyone dyno with and without BHAF ?


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  • Owner

I just installed the BHAF . I noticed wear on the blades of the turbo and I could move the shaft it sits on around, so what's your thoughts, solutions for the turbo issues ?

Time for a rebuild if the compressor wheel is moving on the shaft. Here is the method of inspect your turbo. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/122-turbo-inspection

My truck came with an S&B CAI oiled filter and I think the oil is getting sucked out of it...every engine oil change I wipe my turbo clean and next change it's dirty again (only 3,750 mile intervals). I'm either going BHAF or replacement dry filter. I'll post again in a week If I switch set ups

Not good. You do know there is no such thing as a CAI (Cold Air Intake)? (Left gauge is after intercooler right gauge is before the intercooler from the turbo).

https-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=nf7ladNL7V8

So that means the biggest thing you got to worry about is filtration. Being that all washable filters tend to break down each time you wash them means that in a short period of time you'll be pushing dirt through.
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I just installed the BHAF , Napa 2790. So far I like it. I dont know if i really see any change in performance , but if I have better filtration and keep the turbo and engine cleaner it's a win/win to me. Cheap, and easy. I want to say my seat of the pants dyno feels more performance , but we will leave that alone.

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  • Owner

Filtration and restriction? I would assume a larger filter (BHAF bigger surface area than S&B) might flow more volume because of size and not being "boxed in". From the video it seems the rise in engine bay temp. or intake temp. had little effect on the air after the intercooler

That's correct. This has always been debate for the longest time but after seeing that video and a discussion here about discharge temps of the turbo then it was very clear that what you feed the turbo temp wise wasn't going to change the IAT temp very much because the intercooler was the biggest factor in manifold temp (IAT Temps) not cold air intakes.

Turbo temp calculator

http://www.stealth316.com/2-turbotemp.htm

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If I lost 25hp, I could not feel it

^^^^ this Did he dyno before and after BHAF seems like an expensive dyno test. If your worried about it I'd add a BHAf as well as bigger injectors :) These trucks really should have come with ~150 hp larger injectors stock ..., and tranny to support
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  • Owner

^^^^ this Did he dyno before and after BHAF seems like an expensive dyno test. If your worried about it I'd add a BHAf as well as bigger injectors :) These trucks really should have come with ~150 hp larger injectors stock ..., and tranny to support

I tend to agree. What's funny is for the extra 150 HP plus the stock 235 HP turns out 385 HP roughly. Which makes use still just a bit stronger than a 03-07 CR Engine. :whistle:BHAF is so large of a filter I really can't see any issues being with the filter unless your really up high in HP maybe like 750+ HP numbers then I can see it might be restrictive. For a stock or mildly modified truck I would have to say the claim of 25 HP lost is invalid till we see restriction data in inches water column.
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  • Staff

I've been told by a friend of mine he had a 25 hp loss using a BHAF . Based on research I find that hard to believe. I'm about to put one on my truck this next week and like to know if I should proceed or not.

I'd buy it, he went from the cool non-engine bay air, to hot engine bay air. Have any of you ever measured the air in your engine bay? I have seen a +75°, or more, increase in the temp of air from the inside of my intake tube to the outside when pulling a grade. Hot air is going to mean less power when you looking at peak power. For cruising the warm air help, but not when you are WOT. Hot air also decreases the compressor efficiency, why do you think most dyno runs are completed with the hood open... I have never understood the fascination with the BHAF, why not get a sealed box with a really good air filter???
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I'd buy it, he went from the cool non-engine bay air, to hot engine bay air. Have any of you ever measured the air in your engine bay? I have seen a +75°, or more, increase in the temp of air from the inside of my intake tube to the outside when pulling a grade. Hot air is going to mean less power when you looking at peak power. For cruising the warm air help, but not when you are WOT. Hot air also decreases the compressor efficiency, why do you think most dyno runs are completed with the hood open... I have never understood the fascination with the BHAF, why not get a sealed box with a really good air filter???

Let's beat this dead horse...Truck Fest is in the fall and you get 2 dyno runs. Hopefully they'll let me swap filters and see how it affects an under 400 HP truck...300 HP, no edge comp yet. Until then, BHAF install next week and if I don't like it dry filter on the upgraded s&b intake (only $99 for newer version of intake)...either way I can't see it having a major effect on a mild daily driver truck.
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  • Owner

Personally I don't think it makes a difference at all being that IAT temp are always +40*F on a 2nd Gen regardless if you use the stock air box or the BHAF. Because the discharge of the turbo is going As for boost pressures it doesn't seem to be effected either. Still in all MPG's are higher in 100-110*F weather vs. 40-50*F weather. Since I don't normal race my truck and produce huge amounts of boost constantly then isn't that much heat either. Now the whole CAI and that argument would be plausible if you 100% racing. Daily drive I would say no. Because you can use 100% of the power 100% of the time. The way I see it less pyrometer temps at speed is a sign of efficiency.

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  • Staff

I think racing and towing are where the greatest potential exists to decrease power. I monitor pre-turbo and post-intercooler temps on my truck all the time. Pulling a hill with a trailer the pre-turbo IAT's are about +15° from ambient, and the post-intercooler are about +30° peak from ambient. That's with my OEM sealed box, and a 3" CAI tube to under the wheel well. I realize it's a 3rd gen, but my point is the hot engine bay increases the pre-turbo temps from ±1° of ambient to +15°, and that's with no air being pulled from the bay. (I also run exhaust manifold and turbine blankets, so my engine bay is MUCH cooler than your standard setup). What do you think the temps of the air pre-turbo are on a truck with a BHAF, especially a 2nd gen where the filter is in the rear of the bay, not near the front like on a 3rd gen. The placement of the 2nd gen IAT sensor makes it really hard to accurately monitor IAT's, its too effected by coolant and probably why the sensor was moved for 3rd gens. I honeslty beleive the baseline IAT's are similar 2nd vs 3rd, but the gauge will never show that. There is also more to consider than just the final temp number, the turbo has to work much harder to compress hot air than cold air. The intercooler may make up for the BHAF intake temps, but the turbo still is working harder. Just my :2cents:

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Installed newer version of s&b intake with dry filter, upgrade guarantee for only $99. It was cheaper than a BHAF and a stock intake tube...nobody has a stock intake around here for cheap. Anyways, replaced beat-up, old and dirty oiled s&b filter and older model intake for nice new clean dry one...I like it. No noticeable difference performance wise except the engine is much quieter at idle? Clean filter easier flow?Cleaned my turbo again, but after inspection it appears I need a rebuild kit or an HX35 upgrade! Turbo was excessively dirty and has oil coming out the back. We'll see next oil change if it was the filter or leaky turbo getting everything dirty.post-12844-138698205273_thumb.jpg

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. (It's a Masshole thing, you wouldn't understand) Ed

I take it you hail from Massachussetts :lmao: First time I ever heard that name I was visiting a friend in Maine and someone with Mass. plates cut in front of us. He said some other explicits but "Masshole" really stood out :lmao:
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I vote BHAF. I have been VERY happy with mine. I had an K&N when got the truck. evertime check turbo blades were oily and dirty. 18 months and 20k later blades dry and clean. WORTH every penny and time to mount. I wished I had heard of the 2x4 way of mounting, getting them 3 bolts out was PIA. well live and learn.

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