AirDog help in subzero temps

[Mopar1973Man]

Fine line... There is a theory I work with but still have no proof of it. The fact the 2 cycle oil for snowmobiles is typically got a pour point to -50*F which also has a enhanced PPD (pour point depressant added) this is so oil injection system don't gell up in a snowmobile. So now if you mix -50*F pour point 2 cycle oil and -20*F pour point diesel would you expect a change in pour point? Kind of like knowing that fresh water freezes at +32*F but mix in a unknown solution of salt water and the freeze point is reduced. The only time this is not true is Synthetic 2 cycle oils since none of them have any parafin wax so they have no need for PPD to be used. So I can say that 2 cycle oil WILL NOT cause gelling issues but it might help in keeping it flowing.What really neat is the PPD that used in diesel is the same PPD used in some 2 cycle oils (petroleum).

[Dieselfuture]

I had some diesel in a liter bottle after messing with my airgod last week, this morning i looked at it and it was cloudy looking like it's jelling up. But I know it's summer fuel last time i filed up was almost 2 months ago. it was about 0 this morning, glad I got a car to drive.

[mopartechnician]

I wonder how I could wire those heaters up so that they are on a timer. Just realized they are 12 volt so they would run off the truck battery. Would only want to run them for a couple hours in the morning

[rancherman]

If the fuel we are getting is going to be problematic, I'm going to look into what Arctic Fox has, for at least one of my diesel tractors.

They have kits for running hot coolant in a loop that parallels the draw straw, line kits that have an internal 12 volt heater running the length of the hose (looks like a heat tape that runs down the center of a 5/8ths rubber hose). Filter head for fuel filter that has hot coolant flowing around a 12 plate exchanger. Plus they have the hot sleeves Mike shows above. Sigh, all it takes is $$$.

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I think if you allow some time for warm up, especially on ultra cold days, you'd be ok without a timer. When you shut down hot, the fuel should be pretty clear, at least in the filter. I'd think you would have enough time to warm the filter during your normal engine warm-up.

2 years ago, I got caught with #2 diesel in a tractor, and 10 below temps. Lets just say my fuel was very cloudy. I put new filters on just to get it back to the shop (15 minutes) and it was starting to miss already. Put the queen bee heater on it, added a bunch of #1, and it was fine the rest of the winter... What I am trying to say here is; I'd think you would have enough time for the filter heaters to work, even without a pre heat cycle... Just give em some time!

I have 1 YO batteries, and just cycling the grids 2x, I barely have enough to start a cold (not plugged in) engine. (hence my post on finding a new cord for the block heater!) ha ha. I'd be screwed if I had to take any more amps out to preheat a filter...

[AH64ID]

I wonder how I could wire those heaters up so that they are on a timer. Just realized they are 12 volt so they would run off the truck battery. Would only want to run them for a couple hours in the morning

They will kill the batteries in short order, they are really for when the truck is already running. If it gels in the tank and filters enough to not flow for the first couple minutes then it's gelled in the injectors, pump, etc.

[mopartechnician]

I think I might try pipe heater tape around the filters/hoses.

[AH64ID]

I think I might try pipe heater tape around the filters/hoses.

I think your time/money would be better spent on making sure the fuel is properly treated, the heaters are there to fix a fuel issue. They are simply there as a backup and to help improve flow.

[mopartechnician]

Its got additive but ____ fuel.

[dieselautopower]

Even up here in Idaho I've been close to the minus numbers for the week and because of my location of the filters I'm much more immune to the gelling problem. Sad thing is short bed brackets are no longer sold.

I have 2 of these bracket kits new in box. Bought them years ago with intent to manufacture them since they were to be discontinued. I have not done it.

$60 each shipped to USA. Thats below my cost. I do not have a use for them.

[Mopar1973Man]

I think your time/money would be better spent on making sure the fuel is properly treated, the heaters are there to fix a fuel issue. They are simply there as a backup and to help improve flow.

I would have to agree with John on this one that is best to have proper fuel that is treated for your climate than messing with a bunch of heaters. I would consider that 100w watt heater myself but I would just wire in on a toggle switch that is fed by a switch +12V from the key so that I 've never got to worry about leaving it on. The idea of using one of those for backup for sudden cold snaps than fixing poor fuel.

[AH64ID]

Many of the fuel specific heaters have thermostats built in. Another option is a coolant based heater, it does require the motor to be hot and running but a block heater should take care of that.

[dorkweed]

Fine line... There is a theory I work with but still have no proof of it. The fact the 2 cycle oil for snowmobiles is typically got a pour point to -50*F which also has a enhanced PPD (pour point depressant added) this is so oil injection system don't gell up in a snowmobile. So now if you mix -50*F pour point 2 cycle oil and -20*F pour point diesel would you expect a change in pour point? Kind of like knowing that fresh water freezes at +32*F but mix in a unknown solution of salt water and the freeze point is reduced. The only time this is not true is Synthetic 2 cycle oils since none of them have any parafin wax so they have no need for PPD to be used. So I can say that 2 cycle oil WILL NOT cause gelling issues but it might help in keeping it flowing. What really neat is the PPD that used in diesel is the same PPD used in some 2 cycle oils (petroleum).

Remember Mike, how we tried about 2 dozen different ways to explain that exact point over on CF??? Some got, most didn't!!!

[mopartechnician]

Im not saying this is gonna cure fuel from gelling, im just trying to figure out a way to heat my fuel since my truck sits.outside 24/7. I notice i have good fuel pressure until that cold fuel gets to my sensor. So if i could plug my truck in while at work so that the fuel is atleast warm enough to make pressure. I would love to have good fuel but that isnt going to happen since i barely drive my truck right now since the tappet cover is leaking

[AH64ID]

Remember Mike, how we tried about 2 dozen different ways to explain that exact point over on CF??? Some got, most didn't!!!

I understand what you guys are saying, but I don't necessarily buy it and none of us have a freezer cold enough to test it unless we try on summer fuel.

But here is a way Michael, when everyone else in your neck of the woods gels and is stuck and your still flowing I'll buy it.

It might work, but I just don't see it as it wasn't designed to do that.

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Im not saying this is gonna cure fuel from gelling, im just trying to figure out a way to heat my fuel since my truck sits.outside 24/7. I notice i have good fuel pressure until that cold fuel gets to my sensor. So if i could plug my truck in while at work so that the fuel is atleast warm enough to make pressure. I would love to have good fuel but that isnt going to happen since i barely drive my truck right now since the tappet cover is leaking

Dose the fuel you have, or add 5 or 10 gallons of #1.

[mopartechnician]

Could only put 5 gallons of #1 in since my tank was almost full and cant drive it when its still gellinf. Drove it aroun town today since it was warm enough to "un-gel".

[klcammie]

Im not saying this is gonna cure fuel from gelling, im just trying to figure out a way to heat my fuel since my truck sits.outside 24/7. I notice i have good fuel pressure until that cold fuel gets to my sensor. So if i could plug my truck in while at work so that the fuel is atleast warm enough to make pressure. I would love to have good fuel but that isnt going to happen since i barely drive my truck right now since the tappet cover is leaking

Just fixed my leaking tappet cover. Took me about 11 hours. What a PITA. Glad I done it but didn't like it. Thanks to mopar1973man for great articles on how to.

[mopartechnician]

Ive looked for the article but i cant find it. I dont need help since i have tore many cummins down just never had to do a tappet cover.

[AH64ID]

Could only put 5 gallons of #1 in since my tank was almost full and cant drive it when its still gellinf. Drove it aroun town today since it was warm enough to "un-gel".

I would get those 5 gals in on a day like today. I personally keep 5 gals in the garage all winter.

[diesel4life]

I made a skid plate that bolts into the AD bracket that bolts to the frame rail and extends down under the pump to help keep debris off the bottom. I also extended it to the front of the pump for the same purpose, but it would also act double duty to keep the wind off which I think would help for you cold weather guys. I'll try to get some pictures in the next few days but the snow is pretty deep right now.

[eddielee]

Opps... My bad I was looking at both the 200w and 100w series.I wonder what the total temp will be at the VP44? 200*F is a bit excessive...

With the volume of fuel moving the 200* is going to be much less.

I would either look at getting a proper PPD (Pour point Depressant) or find a way to heat the fuel back above Cloud Point to reduce the gelling...

I agree with an additive^^^Wrapping any filter with heater with aluminum foil (shiny side in) and insulation will help with maintaining fuel temperature.Reading this reminds me of the strips they use for heating water lines to prevent freezing.Not sure there are any that are 12V but would be worth the effort of looking. an inverter would allow the use of an AC unit for heating the fuel lines.