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Teardown and Rebuild

TFaoro
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AH64ID

AH64ID

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Big injectors!! :thumbup2:

 

So try this. TST on 2. 

Smarty on 3 with the following Revo Settings

Timing: 3

Duration: 1

Torque: 1 or 2. 

Then retest with timing on 2 and 4. 

I like torque to be low when dialing in a Revo tune. Once the tune runs great across the board then torque can be increased to the point where it drives how you want. 

 

See how that effects your boost:drive and what the timing does for the ratio. 

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AH64ID

AH64ID

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Don't look at fuel mileage while tuning :-)

So the boost elbow closed is routing more air thru the secondary turbine which is why it's working harder and the primary is making less boost. The pressure ratios are much closer and the primary is in a better ratio. P: 2.6:1 S: 2.3:1

IMHO you are just going to have higher drive pressure based on the turbine sizes, cam, and overall exhaust flow from all that fuel; however the difference is only 0.05:1 between the two WG settings so I would leave it with the secondary working harder and accept the 5 psi more drive on WOT high rpm runs. 

We can, hopefully, tweak the DP with timing thou. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
TFaoro

TFaoro

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Someone please help my find this oil leak. It's literally driving me INSANE!!!! Driver side where the outside edge of the block meets the bell housing adapter. I know it's not coming from the top end as everything dry above the bottom of the block. The pan gasket looks sealed as well so I'm at a loss.

IMG_20160206_232842600_zpse3mk4clb.jpg

IMG_20160206_232834335_zpsjqffyjwz.jpg

IMG_20160206_232827714_zpsexweljob.jpg

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TFaoro

TFaoro

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17 minutes ago, CSM said:

Is it coming from the inside of the bell housing? 

No, you can see where it originates from just below the starter area.

16 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I've seen a TSB about using a bead of silicone sealant for the rear part of the pan. Did you use a sealant on the oil pan gasket? A light color block paint would of help seeing the path of othe oil leak. I think I've mention this before...:whistle2:

:shifty: No I didn't use any sealant. I'm going to be pissed if I have to drip this pan :ahhh:

I've got some daylight now so it'll be easier to see back in there. Even with the paint it's actually pretty easy to see most places :thumbup2: 

Here's the pics again so people don't have to flip back and forth.

IMG_20160206_232842600_zpse3mk4clb.jpg

IMG_20160206_232834335_zpsjqffyjwz.jpg

IMG_20160206_232827714_zpsexweljob.jpg

Edited by TFaoro
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CSM

CSM

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You really only have two options in that area.  Your rear main or the oil pan.  I would pull the starter and make sure the bell housing is clean, then ignore the oil pan leak til summer. :whistle:

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CSM

CSM

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I dorked up my front diff housing when I did it. I was a little stingy with the RTV.  I had a tiny channel that formed when I torqued it up.  I had to redo it and lost over a gallon of mobil 1 oil. 

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NightHawk

NightHawk

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My truck 2 years ago had a slight leak at the back of the oil pan and it looked very similar to your condition. 

I loosened all of the oil pan bolts during one of my oil changes and then re-torqued all of the pan bolts back to (18ft/lb) per the factory sequence. I then drove the truck for a couple hundred miles and upon inspection there was no visible leak at the pan. However to be on the safe side I re-torqued all of the pan bolts per sequence again at (18.5ft/lb) to ensure a good seal.  It has been 15k since re-torque of the pan bolts and so far the leak has not returned. 

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CTcummins24V

CTcummins24V

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1 hour ago, TFaoro said:

I'll be losing 3 gallons of full synthetic and have to figure how the F to get the pan out with the motor in.... ah hell might as well pull the whole thing out again!!!!!

Loosen the motor mounts and hoist the motor up a little bit. That's what I did when I replaced the pan gasket...and it still leaks! Stupid cross member!

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Hawkez

Hawkez

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Wasn't there a post on here with a picture showing that someone cut out the cross member to drop the oil pan.  After the job was done they bolted the cross member back in there?  C'mon, sounds like a great addition to the article to the data base!! :thumbup2:

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CSM

CSM

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2 hours ago, TFaoro said:

I've got a vibration... Is there any way to differentiate it between the Tcase and Transmission?

Um....   mabe take the driveshafts off and get under there with a buddy running it.  Bring a stethoscope.  

How's the tailshaft bushing?

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TFaoro

TFaoro

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55 minutes ago, CSM said:

Um....   mabe take the driveshafts off and get under there with a buddy running it.  Bring a stethoscope.  

How's the tailshaft bushing?

Very little movement. I would think it would start throwing oil out the back if the bushing was bad enough to make it vibrate.

The vibrating is so weird... 80 and higher it vibrates while in gear under any load or no load. Pop it out of gear and the vibration stops.

70-75 it vibrates some while in gear and under load but if you take it out of gear the vibration gets worse.

46 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

If it was standard petroleum it wouldn't matter just do an oil change... :whistle2:

Too much power, heat, cold, and a bunch of other excuses I can't think of right now :lol: 

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CSM

CSM

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Vibration sounds like something axle/suspension related... something is binding be it a pinion bearing, axle bearing, ?? And when you unload it it vibrates.  

Not saying it can't be trans... but that would be pretty weird. If you're sure it's trans, then start looking for shavings in the oil.  Nothing in there moves that much without cutting stuff. 

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