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Teardown and Rebuild


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31 minutes ago, Hawkez said:

Man, that looks great.  I applaud those that keep the engine looking so good.  What is the reason for coil of tubing?  Do you have to have the length? 

So the tubing allows the exhaust to cool before entering the plastic tube and running into the gauge. The smaller tube probably worked as a damper as well, but this big one won't as well. I bought a chunk of 10' from Ace Hardware for $10 and didn't have anything to cut it. Too much length doesn't hurt, but too short will ruin the plastic tube. 

I do need to find a filtering system for this thing though.

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1 hour ago, TFaoro said:

I do need to find a filtering system for this thing though.

I think you just found a use for all the emission stuff guys delete. Just throw on a DPF EGR SCR DEF.... and whatever other three letter acronyms I'm forgetting. You'd have crystal clear drive pressure John Denver himself would be proud of. 

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4 hours ago, AH64ID said:

Why change from 1/8" to 1/4" tubing? 

 

 

1/8in plugged twice... The first time I had to straighten the tube and shove a wire through it. Now it'll just plug the gauge :lol: 

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11 hours ago, TFaoro said:

Sure if it was plugging at the gauge I'd say you guys are right. It's not though.

 

Then it's a leak Prior to the gauge but after the plug.

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11 hours ago, Texas CTD said:

So did you dyno? :think:

Yes. They were uncorrected numbers though, and at altitude that kills the #'s. I was told the CF was 1.24, so that would put it at 669.6/1438.4

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  • Staff

I have also been told to ignore corrected numbers on forced induction motors and have seen many people ridiculed for posting corrected numbers. 

The few guys I have talked to that have dyno'd at elevation and sea level have very similar uncorrected numbers. 

So, what are the real numbers? 540/1160?

Edited by AH64ID
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All the places in Denver go off of corrected numbers. Even the dyno inside ATS used them... not saying they're right, just saying that's what everyone is using. 540 seems extremely low for this setup. I need to get it back on one of the other dynos I've been on. This was a mobile dyno that I don't really trust.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Went and had my driveshaft balanced AGAIN by a better shop this time. Apparently the old shop did a horrible job. This other place said the rear U joint was bad, the shaft was not straight, and there was no way it could be balanced the way it was. They also said the factory weights should be removed before attempting to balance, which the old shop didn't do. 

It cost me $130 after taxes and I'm happy to report the vibrations are gone!

 

I'll have a 5" exhaust on the way monday, and Jacob at DAP is sending me a 14cm housing for my phatshaft to see if it'll drop the drive pressures. It'll be going on a dyno for sure Saturday, and if I'm lucky sometime this week too.

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