2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So I've come to the almighty moparman forums seeking help on an unusual issue I'm having. My truck is heavily modified by the previous owner and I'm constantly having to fix one thing or another and chase things. So I have 2 issues now 1 of which I believe I know the issue but don't know a good fix. First issue is I get trans limp mode and a P1689 with no buss on the CCD when turning on the HVAC blower at any speed. Once turned off it goes back to normal. I have taken the ground off for the HVAC controls and the no buss issue also happens without the blower motor running only in face vents or floor vents position. Looking at wiring diagrams I can't tell where any of the …

Needing help with a sporadic p 1689 code. It's the only code I get and it only when I have been driving for a good bit. (Daily 20min drive to work won't trigger it) vp44 is new ish. (2 years may maybe 50k miles) was from DAP and was one with a supposedly rebuilt pump "brain" I have gone through the really helpful guide on this website. Everything tested good except the step on the ECU. Im shure it could be the ECU but want to rule everything else out. Fuel pressure looked good on the quadzilla ecu voltage looked good tps was steady. Truck drives fine but will suddenly go through a fit* and cut in and out then be done and drive fine. It has recently started to rev on st…

I have a 1999 Dodge ram 3500 2wd with nv4500. I get a bad vibration at speeds above 55mph it all started when I put a set of old used tires on it. So I thought it was the tires, I had them balanced multiple times, tried balance beads these all changed the vibration one way or another. Changed bead amounts from 3oz all the way to 10 oz. I've done u joints, carrier bearing,tail shaft bearing all with little to no effect. The vibration feels like it's right under my seat and or towards the rear end. The shifter handle will shake badley when I'm on the highway at 55-70mph. Its intermittent it will some times go away for 30 seconds or some then slowly come back and start shaki…

I said i'd have some questions about my dads truck so here goes... 2001 Ram 2500 24 valve, 47RE automatic. Transmission was rebuilt years ago before he had the truck. not sure what all was done to it specifically. It will randomly kick out of Overdrive sometimes cruising around 55mph, sometimes cruising at 60/65mph. It will kick in and out of overdrive 2 or 3 times in a row and then go back in and hold. When he first described the problem to me i wasn't sure if it was O/D or Lock up giving an issue.. So i did the first test in the Alternator noise thread about isolating the alternator by removing the field wires and removing the 140 amp fuse in the box, wen…

Well strange one. Owned my 24v since new, no matter how long it's been parked sometimes years with disconnected batteries. They key fobs have always worked and the truck started no problem. Twice in the last 6 months my key fobs have stopped working and needed to be re coded to work and allow the truck to start! I didn't know this truck had any type of security immobiliser on it! My ram is 99 with the sport package. Does this sound like a CTM issue? If so are they plug and play? Or do they require coding? Can I remove the factory immobiliser? Thanks for any help 🙏 I'm in the UK so it's hard work get…

so i have a 2001 24valve 6 speed and i screwed up on welding some exhaust on the truck, i had the batteries unhooked but i forgot to move my ground when welding a exhaust hanger from the frame back to the exhaust and when i tried to weld the exhaust it searched for the ground through the engine block and so far i found that it took out my CTM and ABS module, when i hooked the battery back up the headlight stayed on and the wipers stayed on also with the abs pump running, i narrowed it down to i uplugged the ctm and the lights and wipers stop, the truck would start for few seconds then die so i unhook the pcm and truck will run and take pedal up to about 2000rpm, with the …

Anyone ever do a ram air intake on our trucks? Bhaf seemed to be a good help and a good friend swore by the ram air intake on his VMAX bike. I feel like it would help in our application (diesel no real air fuel ratio no throttle blade) but I know it's mostly a looks thing on regular gas cars. Just curious if anyone has ever messed with it.

So my 2000 started throwing some odd codes. It's showing a P1698 and a P1689 . No Trans bus messages and egr actuator.... But here is why they're weird. My truck is a 5 speed from factory, and is pre-EGR. Any ideas what could cause this?

I checked and set valve lash on my 2001 Dodge Cummins. I went .010” on intake valves 1-2-4 and .020” on exhaust valves 1-3-5 on the compression stroke TDC, and .010” on intake valves 3-5-6 and .020” on exhaust valves 2-4-6 on the exhaust stroke TDC, but I noticed that intake valve #5 was slightly loose on the compression stroke, .003” and intake valve #2 was slightly loose on the exhaust stroke, .003”. Shouldn’t these be tight? Or is there a slight overlap while at TDC compression/exhaust that would cause these to be loose? Or could it be push rods or some other wear. The truck starts and runs good. Thanks!

I've been looking at some ranchhand front bumpers. I've discovered that they supposedly don't for the sport model. Does anyone know what the difference is and why it won't fit? Is it an easy modification to get it to fit?

Have a no start condition with my 2000 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad 4x4 Cummins Diesel (approx 545k miles I think...been a while since it was running). Went through the “BLUE CHIP DIESEL – NO START TESTS”. Truck started when I hot-wired the VP44, which stunned me! But before the hot wire: initially had 12.7v on pin #7 of VP44 plug (with respect to battery…had the charger on the batteries) in “run” key position, dropped down to 12v while cranking (“start” position). Testing between pin #6 (ground) and pin #7, had 12.7v with key in “run” position…then in “start” voltage dropped down to 6v and fluctuated between 6v and 11v not coming back up to 12v until key …

Hey all, I bought a 98.5 2500 ram about 6 months ago and have been slowly working through getting everything road worthy again. I noticed that I can’t shift much at all past drive on the column, so I did my research and found the adjustment screw and rod, and attempted to adjust that, but soon realized the reason it won’t shift past drive is because the chunk that attaches to the rod is hitting the bell housing of the trans. I’m kind of stumped as to what would cause this and more importantly how to go about adjusting it back slightly. I’ve attached some pictures below to sort of help describe what’s going on. Any help would be extremely appreciated

Starting this thread to help troubleshoot and document a host of problems with my father's "new" truck a 2001 24v 3500 dually with a 6 speed. Problems Truck will start and idle fine but will surge/buck inconsistently with throttle/load Codes p 1475 p0522 p0122 p 1295 p 0237 p 1488 and the companion code. Alternator ac noise seamed good <.03 No wait to start light but truck has a grid heater delete block on it not shure if it was installed "correctly" Probably is ecu but I'm going to check out the 5v system just to check. I did notice temp sensor was spliced thinking wires might be swapped? Grounding out the circuit Truck seamed to behave b…

I’ve got a friends 2001 Ram 2500 that run rough, dies and doesn’t restart but this is intermittent. It will run fine for miles before it starts acting up. There was no check engine light but I checked for codes anyway and it had a P0320. I graphed the injector pump timing with my scan tool and the timing showed to be all over the place. Truck has 179,000 on it, original injector pump but has direct replacement FASS fuel pump on it. It also has the original crankshaft sensor. Questioning whether it’s the injection pump or the crankshaft sensor. Any ideas are appreciated. Thank You.

2001 3500, manual A few months ago, 'no bus' showed up on my gauge cluster, and the gauges died. Truck started and ran fine, but no gauges after a few seconds past startup. Was driving it on short trips until it started stumbled and started getting loud fuel knock going down the road at 45. Brought it home, let it sit for a week. Next time I fired it up, it was smoking really good at idle, and cleared up when it was warm, but it's down on power pretty good once warm. Codes pulled at this point are: P0237, P0234, P1698, P0216 I reset the codes and only P0216 and P1698 came back. Gauge codes are 920, 921, 940 ,950, 999 …

Hey there, im in desperate need of figuring out ecm/pcm problems. I own 2000 automatic 4wd truck, a mechanic said the original ecm was bad so he sourced an ecm p/n 3947912(2002?) truck would start and run but rpm would cut out after 5 seconds of run time.(im aware newer years didn’t have a crank sensor). Fast forward i bought a 2000 donor truck with a manual transmission , I removed the ecm/pcm and all wiring harnesses under the hood and swapped them to my truck(one thing i noticed on the donor truck was it has a crank sensor by the starter but nothing was plugged into it and there was no pigtail in the harness) so i swapped all mentioned above into my truck and I’m still…

Does anyone have a part number or place to source the bushing for the master cylinder push rod to clutch pedal. Can't find one anywhere.

This is a tech article regarding those who (like me) think the oem spot for the apps is not ideal. Exposed to outside elements, heat, vibration and potential corrosion, moving it inside was most practical. Non Dodge/ midrange applications of Cummins 5.9 24V ISB’s all have their TPS/APPS inside the cab, mounted on the pedal assembly. So nothing is changing on the apps operation, just moving it. This mod does not works on trucks that are auto/use vacuum for cruise. The auto trans kickdown cable is attached to the bellcrank assembly. As with the vacuum solenoid setup too so if you can live without them then it will work. Parts …

Maybe some of you gents can help me now? Truck starting getting some bumpy rpms this afternoon. Drove it a bit and now it’s limping along with erratic idle. CEL on now. Codes I have: p0606 p0113 p0118 p0121 p0123 I read an article from here with someone with the same issues/codes and it was an ecm failure. I have the WT mods done, batts are clean & tight. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now so I thought id drop this topic. Any recommend ecm rebuilders?! Thoughts?

Hi guys. New here. Been around these things for a long time, but don't know Cummins like you guys do. I come from the rockcrawling world, and know a lot about LS stuff, and worked on lots of different diesels over the years, but not lots of cummins stuff beyond 12v. I need some help. Have a few issues on this cobbled together hooptie. Bought this truck as a tow rig, as my Bil's buggy will fit on the rear and it can tow my crawler behind it. Supposedly it was running and driving and then wouldn't start one morning. Tried and tried to get it but couldn't. Had some "diesel mechanic" diagnose it as a bad VP44 due to codes etc. Removed it and then he couldnt affo…