3rd Generation Dodge

Hello, I have an odd buzz or hum coming from what appears to be under the driver's area hood which projects through the driver's side dash. It sounds like a relatively loud high pitched cricket buzz. It started under load, but sometimes continues (more often now) during constant throttle. If I back off on the throttle, it most often stops. It seems to be increasing in frequency but sometimes does it very little. Since it happens only when driving, I can't pinpoint the issue. It is definitely not loose metal, heat shields, exhaust, etc. It seems electronic, tied to throttle response. I've searched on line with no luck. Any ideas?

I have a head scratcher. Whenever I fill up, truck is low on power for the next 20-30 minutes. The truck will usually die, ONE TIME, the first time you let off to stop. This can be one mile down the road or twenty miles. Cranks right back and won't die again. We have tried not topping off the tank, leaving cap off, and fueling at different tank levels. Lift pump is new. Truck runs fine with full power after 20-30 miles. Power comes back gradually, it's not like flipping a switch. Engine temp doesn't matter. Thanks

I was just checking out the $ for CR injectors @ thourobred diesel:spend:and I just made a late new years resolution to run two stroke oil religiously in all my diesel engines... I know there has been a great deal of discussion about this subject on this forum, but is there actually any technical data that links fuel lubricant to injector longivity?

Well I've been busy doing a side job with my crew. This property is owned by one of my crew. He's got a bunch of old cars we've been moving and clearing the land after his house fire. Well after long day I unhitched from my boss'es goose neck trailer (Big Tex dump bed) which we thought we would use for moving small material. When I left I had to travel over to the dirt track we were using and back out to the main road. In that little bit of time I must of picked up a roll of barbed wire. Windows were rolled up and A/C on. I never heard a single thing. BOOM! I'm made it about 40 miles before it blew the tire... Yup a massiv…

For all you guys that run tuners, I`m just curious what, if any MPG gains could be expected by adding a tuner to a completely stock truck? For now, I rarely tow anything worth mentioning with my 03.. At 160K I feel like I need to make some transmission upgrades before I try to load it up. I`m just wondering if the MPG gains alone would be worth the investment?

I installed a Air Dog 100 thinking the stock lift pump was the cause of hard start. It seams to be hard to start off and on. I dont hear the fuel pump come on and it is hard to start. I changed the fuel pump relay to a new one twice. if i turn the key on and off the fuel pump will come on and the truck will start. I am lost and cant figure this out.

2007 Dodge 2500 RAM 5.9L 4x4 Mega Cab (82,000 miles well taken care of vehicle): Engine died at highway speed, and will not start with no immediate electrical problems. I was traveling on a 700 mile trip for labor day holidays, and after five hours during the returning home leg and while on cruise control at night, then without any notice the engine just stopped running/producing power at 60 mph and truck coasted to a stop. There was no engine life but would crank and did not start or even show any signs of firing. Immediate checks of fuses determined that there were no blown fuses. Just to be sure I replaced fuse #41 for EGM but this did not help. Luckily, I was 7 …

So i get fuel at SamsClub. They have the highest turn over of tanks in town. They get 4 trucks a day. I asked the driver about when they will switch to the winter blend of fuel. He told me they do not have one. That they don't add anything. I can't seem to find this info on the other fuel stations her in town. Maverick, or Conoco are the only other places i'd fill up as they have a kinda high turn over of tanks. I could drive 12 miles out of town to a Pilot truck stop, but still I cant seem to find info on when/if they switch over to a winter blend. does anyone know of a database of stations that sell Bio. any information anyone can provide would be great. …

We all know the last of the 5.9's was the most powerful, and least fuel efficient of the 5.9's. Cummins didn't put an external EGR on the truck to help it along, but to meet emissions they had to keep cylinder pressure lower by retarding timing... less power, higher EGT's, etc.. The common consensus is that a peak cylinder pressure at 9-12° ATDC is best for performance, and efficiency. That means that all the fuel needs to be injected, and ignited prior to that point so the pressure hits when it should. Take a look at this chart and you might see why the EGT's are high and fuel efficiency is lower. This is how many degrees ATDC the injector stays open. Top is …

How do you disconect that ding pos. :banghead:

Just came back from FL pulling a 14k tag a long, totaling just a hair over 10K, a wood stove in the bed and a Golf cart, 17KW Lister genset and a John Deere tractor on the trailer. Ol' Blue just chugged right along, even when I got into the rolling hills of SC on I-26. Transmission was in Tow haul mode, w/ cruise set on 65. The only way I could tell I was in a hill was because the turbo would start whinning from spooling up. Not once did the transmission down shift or come out of lock up. Is that normal? Some of the hills were pretty long, such that Semi's were pulled down to 55 at about the halfway point. and I would have to go around them.

Third tank in a row boys and girls that I averaged 20+mpg!!!!:sofa:IN ALL HONESTY; IMHO, I truly don't know how many of y;all don't/ or can't get better mileage from your trucks!!????? Just saying, not arguing!!!!Could it be that I'm the guy that y'all are passing on the road (swearing at) everyday!!??:?Not arguing, just saying!!!

Mike, I was wondering about the Scangauge. Is it a simple plug and play setup? I am interested in getting on.Al

All I can say about this product is WOW!! B) B) It's definitely worth all the kudos everyone gives it!! I've been running mainly SW5 default settings. Power is GOOD, mileage is good!!! Tried SW9 default setting today. I honestly think that SW7 default setting was more responsive!!! :wow After I got home this afternoon, I thought I'd download SW5 but advance the timing. With the Smarty Revo you can adjust timing, rail pressure and waste gate. I got some pretty noticable timing rattle with it advanced manually and the throttle response wasn't as good. So I re-downloaded SW5 default settings and all is well!!! The Smarty Revo does add some rail pressure, so my overhe…

Hi,I'm a new user, I'm from Poland (Western Europe). Problem of ULSD fuel is well known in europe. Althought we have 5% (sometimes more) FAME (bio) additive in diesel fuel, problem remains. Lot of diesel engines users in my country are 2-cycle oil worshipers:)Ok, "what is his point?" - you ask.... I've been using lot of fuel additives, cetane boosters, injector cleaners etc. Last time I used Liqui Moly Purge - very expensive cleaner - which is plugged to fuel line (not poured into tank). Honestly - I fell no difference, black smoke remains, engine noise the same, EGR blanked - no changes. Then I poured 500ml 2-cycle oil and.......miracle....less noise, less smoke etc.HOW …

I am looking to locate where the fuse or relay is on my 2007 5.9 3500 Ram. I have searched hi and low to no avail so hope someone can give me some good direction. This truck has the TIPM module and there is no indication on the cover of a fuse for the fuel or lift pump. My dealer is a bit shakey but indicates the fuel pump which is located in the tank is controlled in the solid state circuitry of the TIPM so there is no assessable fuse or relay. If true and if I want to disable the fuel pump for a test I would have to find the connector somewhere back by the fuel tank and disconnect. Is this the situation or is there another more accurate procedure?

Other years will be similar, major point of contention would be the orientation of the belt tensioner. Try to do it without removing anything but the belt and pump will take hours, and volumes of language not fit for Human consumption. 1) Get under truck on passanger side with a 1/2 inch long handle ratchet, not a breaker bar (head too thick). Insert the drive square on the ratchet into the belt tensioners preformed indention for the 1/2 inch square. Use the ratchet to pull the belt tensioner towards the ground. While holding the tensioner in this position take the belt off the the A/C pully. Return the tensioner to it's relaxed position, by reducing pressure o…

OK, thinking its time to pick up some gauges. So if we are talking a max of three, or if I don't even need three, what are the most important gauges to get in order of importance? Running the Smarty S06 on 5. Is that in my sig line? Ya it is.

2006 qclb with muffler, no cat. The exhaust is a cat-back system of unknown origin from the previous owner. I have a terrible drone when towing. So bad I can't hear the wife and kids when pulling the travel trailer. I need to get rid of it as it defeats the purpose of family trips when you can't talk along the way. Besides, it's just plain uncomfortable on long hauls. I've read a lot about the FTE resonator but I need to install a cat for emissions inspections where we are moving. My question is will the cat solve the drone issue or am I looking at needing both a cat and a resonator?Apparently, mega cabs have factory resonators while qclb's don't. Was the cat good enough …

Lately when my truck shifts in to OD I get what feels like a slip and causes the RPMs to bounce up and down. It even acts like this at around 30-35 mph sometimes. But mostly between 40-55 when the engine is running around 1500 to 1700 rpm. Any ideas as to what this may be?