2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have been running stock since I damaged my original motor a few years ago. I have not kept up with the latest trends. I run around with a lot of weight as a welding truck, 10k the last time I checked. I am putting my 50hp injectors in this motor soon. I almost want to stay with just inj. but I dont know whats out there, I have read some on the smarty. I do pull heavy sometimes, 20-28k. Any info would be great, Thanks

(Confusing) Parts book says I don't have a roll over ball. But service manual says I do have one. Service manual says roll over ball is on top of fuel module. But actually holding the fuel module in my hand, I think the roll over ball is inside near bottom near "inlet" filter. Or at least something that looks like pic in service manual is near bottom of fuel module. It is white and about size of ping pong ball. Do roll over balls go bad? If so I would like to replace now as fuel tank is out of truck right now. BUT!!!! and here is part I don't understand...the fuel is being sucked by a oversize fuel line added in 2005, and the line that ha…

Finally got around to hiding my High Idle Switch. I figure I would share my idea may there are some folks that don't want a dash full of holes.

Truck started acting up last weekend and had codes for APPS. I reset the APPS, which is about a year old Timbo APPS, and ran fine. This evening coming home from work truck was cutting out(dead pedal) Cruise control wouldn't even work and kept kicking off on its own. Got it home thankfully and got codes of 0562, 0575, 0342, 0112, 1488, 0606, 1295, 0237. Have Edge JWA truck is 2001 with 6spd and 273k on clock. Am I lookin and a new ECM? Any suggestions or where to start.

I was looking on your site to find the fix for the fuel leak on the back of a 24v head, which I did find and it was very well written and I found the info I needed and I appreciate the excellent write up. One thing I do not understand is the fuel line going to the back of the head. Please excuse my ignorance but what exactly is the purpose for that line? I'm sure you cant block it off but I was curious about what its purpose is.

Was out doing some running around this morning and had to jump out in to some traffic and get down on the right pedal. I was thinking I had a stock truck but happened to look in right rearview mirror and noticed some (not a lot) of black smoke. Is this normal on a stock truck or is that an indication that there is a programmer on the truck? Also, once I was in the flow of traffic I noticed the MIL was on. I pulled the code when I got to work and it's a P0234 which I read could be MAP sensor, stuck WG or an actual overboost condition caused by a programmer. Is there a way for me to know if there is a programmer installed? Also, I called Dodge to price a MA…

I NEEDS ONE!!!!!!! so does everyone else!

I’m re-doing a poor install of an Airdog2 model DF-100. I want to make sure I have right size of fuse. Instructions does not say what size of fuse. Anybody know what size of fuse? Thanks

I crawled under my truck recently looked up and found under my oil filter there is a leak coming off a hose with two clamps. Traced it found out it goes to the turbo. I haven't taken it off so I don't know what size I need or what it is. If it is special hose or the length of the piece. I looked online found 3/4 7/8 silicon high temp you name it etc. can anyone help me out here thanks.

Last night oil gauge started dropping to bottom of gauge tripping check gauges light and chime. Since it was raining I'm thinking loose connection. My question Where is the sensor? I tried to find it on the parts lookup. It is listed as number 12 but picture only goes to 11. Want to clean the connection.

Hey guys, this is my first post but I have read a lot on this forum and have found help several times here. My issue now seems to be something in the electrical system causing some weird torque converter symptoms. First off, I have a 1998.5 Dodge 2500 4x4 24 valve with 177,000 miles and a 47re that has been built with a BD Stage 3 kit along with a single disk billet converter that has roughly 22,000 miles on it. It has ran flawlessly up until about a week ago. My issue is very consistent. I can take off with normal throttle from a stop and the transmission will shift perfectly 1st through 4th gear and the torque converter will lock perfectly at around the 45 MPH mark (not…

So a bit of a rough day today. I went and picked up a 350,000 BTU heater out in the middle of nowhere today for my dad. I was headed home (about 5 miles from the guys house I bought the heater from) and some guy decided he wasn't going to share the road with me. This was a pretty narrow 2 way road covered in ice. I pulled it over and went into the ditch where there's about a foot drop off into snow and an embankment with sporadic trees. The nice gentlemen didn't have the courtesy to stop, so I hopped out and broke the branches on the tree already hitting my hood. I then rocked it back and forth to get moving and plowed down the ditch a way through another tree (even folde…

Has anybody tried to hook the Mopar switch up so it automatically changes to 3 cylinder high idle with a remote starter? I can see forgetting to change it from mpg to 6 or 3 cylinder high idle. Has there been anybody whose tried doing this and was successful. Or am I alone and gonna have to figure it out by myself.

On the fuel module…Is it desirable to have fuel return go back into “collection” basket? If so why? Am I right in my thinking or am I missing something? As long as fuel is getting sucked up with no leaks and 21 psi with ½ fuel line (at idle, don’t know about WOT yet) doesn’t really matter how return fuel is hooked up to. Other than return has to go back into tank. If fuel return matters, I can put in back in several ways…using draw straw or the fuel filler hose that has a metal fitting with connection tube or fuel module. But fuel module fittings are 3/8 inch line I think. (I fixed the sump, no longer leaks and now plugged off and want to a…

First off, Merry Christmas, second off I would like to say thank you to TFAORO for helping me get the truck running while off grid in -10 degrees Fahrenheit I had a 10 mile ride on a wheeler just to get a form of cell reception then for Tyler to respond quickly was awesome . So long short this is her first winter back on road 99 24 valve 5.9 4x4 auto with 320k on the clock basic mods and hybrid turbo, full frame off restoration... because of that I'm not ruling anything out yet. The facts Outside temp was -10 dropping to -14f blowing 20mph Truck was plugged in on generator power for 6 hours tested for good voltage to find it present...…

I have been dealing with brake and ABS lights on all the time from key on to key off. I have also been suffering from "irregular" / "unpredictible" pedal feel. Sometimes pedal feels fine other times it goes to the floor. Braking power is still there however. So I got a hair up my butt today and started probing wires. Tested the rear ABS sensor, 1.8 k resistance, which is within spec for the sensor. While I was under there I unplugged the Sensor on the proportioning valve and BAM no more lights. So what does that sensor do? and why does the ABS computer throw a hissy fit when it is plugged in? I am assuming it is tellin…

Here is a good one I have been fighting, truck shuts off like you turned the key off while driving but wait a few seconds and it starts right back up, but if you try to just start it back upwithout waiting it will just crank. No codes, doesn't crank like it ran out of fuel just starts back up. Could it be a ground? New vp44, App, alternator. Yesterday day on a 300 mile trip it did it more often like something had to cool down. I'm thinking maybe computer?

Its not uncommon to read threads/posts where members are unaware of why their u-joint angles must be set correctly otherwise driveline vibrations will be a problem. I just ran across this 2 minute youtube video which I think does a very good but yet simple job of explaining whats going on. Maybe this will help some people out understanding whats going on under their truck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5aCK4Bob6a0

Hey guys, I wanted to give you a heads up that we have created a Part Number Lookup tool in the new Articles. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/part-number-lookup-tool-2nd-gen-24v/ You can find a couple of different years and configurations in the above link. You can open up the year / model needed and use the drop down menu to jump around or use the bookmarks tool on the main page to jump around. We will add more documents as we get them, but most parts should span the years we have.

Are there Tech articles on the PDC? If so I haven't found them. I seem to be having power/ground issues there (PDC) If I turn on headlamps the truck shuts down. Will restart if switch is off. Also have no heater blower at same time. Engine code is no ECM communication. Seems to either be a power interruption or most probably a ground issue? Any ideas on where to start. the bottom of the PDC is difficult to get to!