2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

JJSNOW sent me this PMso I asked Mike Nelson to get it Posted for @JJSNOW.... My dually 98.5 ram 3500 5.9 turbo diesel has been down since May. I have spent thousands and thousands on parts. I have replaced every part per mechanics request from the injector pump, every sensor on the truck and now I am told that I need to send my PCM off. I don't have the money to continue this journey. I love my truck. It is for me. A guy hit me and I had just received a check to have it fixed. After purchasing my new bed (which is still in Mississippi and not picked up yet), new carpet, finished my stereo system, immediately had to start buying these parts. I was so e…

My daughter bought me diesel truck gauges for Christmas! She found a 3 in 1 gauge from gloshift that has an analog needle to show boost and an LCD display that shows fuel pressure and egt. Pretty slick little unit, all 3 in one gauge pod. Even comes with the pod to install it. I only need to buy the boost bolt, snubber and the tap and die kit to drill the exhaust manifold for the egt probe. My questions are: Do I only need a snubber or do I also need the needle valve? Where is the best place to drill fir the egt probe? See pic of the gauge below. The pic shows egt and temp in the LCD but mine has the fuel pressure and egt's.

So I've always had a little miss, I would noticed it with my edge jammers 150s with the comp on level 5 at WOT, not bad enough for me to worry about. But I upgraded to a quadzilla and also got 7x.013s , the miss turned into a very aggressive buck, it's literally breaking my dash. I notice that with the quad on level 0 it doesn't do it but with the quad on at any other level it does it, the more aggressive fueling the worse and it even does it on level 2 with less power than stock , as soon as I put it on level 0 I have no buck on my throttle. Any ideas would be appreciate it to help me tackle this some of the mods are SO pump, t3 66/74/…

Hey all, back again for some advice. Truck when cold upon startup seems to run the best and once she's up to temp, I seem to get more vibration than I should. Truck isn't stock and I've been told it won't run AS smooth as a stock truck would since she has bigger injectors and a different pump. I noticed today and the other day that I was getting a lot of vibration when driving, like the engine was running rough. Yesterday she ran a lot better but only recently have I noticed the roughness and it's at random. Sometime last week I remember pulling in to park her after going out in town and I was like damn, she's pretty smooth (up to temp too etc) and it'll rando…

I see a bunch of debate topics about this brand vs that brand, but I have a more specific question. It looks like I'm needing a new manifold Currently stock, looking at the ATS 1 piece PulseFlow. Of course as sales points they claim: more performance, faster turbo spool, lower egts etc... My question.. which of these are true and which are false? Anyone have any real data? I see on a couple of posts that people claim actually spooling slower and loosing overall power using a more open manifold over stock? At what injector size does a larger manifold actually make sense? Runnin DAP +75hp injectors and an S300 turbo. Should I just hunt for a stock repl…

So it took a while and almost bought the wrong fluid. But here it is, Valvoline Heavy Duty sae50 Full Synthetic. It has to be part# val 706035m The first NAPA parts person tried to sell me what they thought was full syn. but its not. That part number was 329, wrong fluid. The guy came to me and said your running a Dodge, right? And right then I said this is the guy I need. Had my nv5600 rebuilt and the builder said good to go, he recommends it over Amsoil 5-30. Its to thin down here, 50 weight is needed.

Pulled some lightly used 50HP DDP injectors (<10K) from my truck. These were pricey as all DDP injectors are ($900K ) and they performed well. Is there a market to sell these?

So feeling like a bit of an idiot for trying this project during a very cold weekend which is contributing to my install. Not my first time upgrading injectors. However, can’t get 5&6 injectors to seat. Can’t apply enough pressure to push down on them and as they near the back can’t swing a mallet either. it’s just about freezing so fighting the cold metal and moisture in the air which is making it doubly hard. Anyone have any experience or tips to seat these? Can I use the hold down rocker arms and and torque the hold down bolts to seat them? Dumb of me to try this in the cold but hey.

I read a while ago someone used a different valve stem seal to try and make them stay on the guide better or seal better can't quite remember which and who it was. Question 1. What is the valve stem size on a 24v Question 2. What is the guide diameter where the stem seal sits The reason for the 2 questions is I'm right now repairing a Perkins (POS) 4.4 RJ build in a JCB 416 loading shovel that the tip of number 3 injector dropped off, only the very tip below the injector holes so very small and luckily it imbedded straight away into the piston and did not go through a exhaust valve. This has been ongoing for about a month…

Im new to the nv5600 so I been digging up info on how many qts should over fill. I read everything from 4.5 to 7qt. Im running 6 in it now but if any of you are running 7 Id like to hear from you. Thanks

So I know Quad and other tuners stretch the injection solenoid pulse width by some microseconds like 1500 or 1700. At what RPM? Or is that the max at any speed. This is how they get around the Vp can bus internal max fuel delivery limit. Why not in degrees instead of microseconds? Example 1500 microseconds at 1000 rpm is 1000/60 = 16.7 RPS 16.7 x 360 = 6000 degrees per second 6000/ 1000000 = .006 degrees per microsecond .006 x 1500 uS = 9 degrees @ 1000 rpm At 3000 RPM the same 1500 uS = 27 degrees. Is it explained somewhere ?

Noticed this condition a few times lately and its got me puzzled. Truck is experiencing a slight hesitation with acceleration when the truck is cold and not up to full operating temp. Almost like it’s a dead pedal for a split second at low rpms. Doesn't happen all the time and never after it’s warm. Scanned for codes and there wasn't any. Fuel pressure is good. (15-18 PSI). Low mileage truck (94K). VP44 is factory original. Wondered if it was Quad related, maybe the warm up mode feature I have enabled kicking in the power but it’s not. Any thoughts?

I posted this on the Cummins forum and thought I'd post here hoping to get some answers/ideas: So my '01 has started with no issues in the year that I've had it. Today I pulled into the paint store and upon returning to the parking lot, the truck started for about 2 seconds, 5 times in a row then nothing but the starter spinning. I could hear the fuel pump run and had 20 psi on my fuel gauge while trying to start. I called the tow company and was waiting for 30 min or so and remembered that Mike here on the forum had told me a few months ago, when I had a no start issue after installing my PacBrake unit, to toggle the lock/unlock on the key fob. I did that …

Looks like my NV4500 trans hashed itself. Looked online, saw Midwestern and SP Precision. SPP has them on sale + a lower core charge. Anyone use either of these places?Any other rebuilder recommendations?

i am looking for some one who is willing to sell me their 3 cylinder high idle switch or build me one. i am willing to pay a decent amount. i cant find anything on how to make it nor am i sure i trust myself to do so. is there anyone that can help me? i could really use this feature on my truck this winter.

So Im on my 2nd rear seal in about6k miles, keeps blowing them out. I even put a little silicone on this one and still blew out. Im thinking something is not right in trans. What do you think.

I'm talking about the line on the rear of the cylinder head. I was under there fir something else yesterday and noticed it's wet on the back of the engine and down the bell housing. A small drip was handing on the bottom of the bell housing. It was fuel. Could see the light green color. I took my phone and tried to get a pic behind the head (it's tight back there) and it looks wet. Can't tell if it's just the copper washers leaking or if it's the line itself. So far its a small leak, just a drip. Could this cause a slight hard start issue? I noticed yesterday morning she seemed to start a bit harder than normal. (Temp was low/mid 40's) Thinking of just…

I got called out to a site that has a JCB 416 loading shovel, 4.4 Perkins 4 cylinder diesel that was misfiring (or so the muppets at the site said. Got there and started it to check, misfiring was an understatement, fuel filters all clean, air cleaner too. Slackened injector lines off one by one 1. RPM dropped a lot barely running, good spray 2. Same as No1 3. Ran much better with no3 line slightly loosened and rpm actually increased, bubbling air when loosened, rpm decreased on tightening injector line. 4. Same as 1 and 2 So decided to pull no3 injector as I figured injector pintle not closing for some reason IE tip dropped off or pin…

Ive got the fan out and shroud off while im installing new dampener and figured while Im there might as well fix the leak. Im not sure if the timing cover has a gasket or if just sealant. Anyone give me a heads up. Thanks

Hey All - new paying member to the forum. Taking a break from the CF for a bit. Question is all too familiar I suspect. Trying to decide what to do with my 2nd gen to optimize my setup. I'm towing - or should say carrying a new truck camper (~2800 lbs) and lately going through the Washington state mountain passes and ridgelines. Lots of long slopes. My signature shows my mods but mainly I want to see if I'd be better served by increasing my injector size from 50HP to 100 to better pair with the Fleece HX35 63/65 turbo i'm running. I do see a bunch of lag even with the Quad tow tune I'm running that i had the guys @ DAP build for me. I control EGTs on long inclines mainly…