2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

My manual states that the intake air grid heaters will cycle on and off for approximately 3 minutes if the intake air temp is below 60 degrees F. However, I can't seem to find the durtion of the on cycle anywhere. Mine stay on for about 3 to 4 seconds, then off for about 15 to 20 seconds. Just curious if this is the correct cyclic timing sequence.PRG, 2002, Ram 2500, 5.9 CTD, 4 WD, Extended Cab, 8" Bed, Quadzilla XZT+, Quadzilla Monster Air Intake, Quadzilla Recon Gage, Okanogan Highlands, WA.

I have a '02 SLT Laramie Ram 3500 dually with 5.9L 24V tubo engine and an odd voltage reading problem. When I start the engine the volt meter rises slowly to a little over 14 volts & then slowly falls back down to 11 - 12 volts before rising again to 14 volts. If I have the headlights on, they dim as the volts fall & brighten up as the volt reading rises. It does this several times and usually stabilizes when the engine reaches operating temps. Is this something I should be concerned about or is this normal? What could cause this?

I've read about the benefits of 2 stroke oil and especially2%biodiesel.Since I can't buy that in the ethanol state CA( surprise !!! )how about cannola oil to lube that CP3 ?Thanks Hanno

Since i put this new turbo on i have not seenit build over 18psi of boost. Could they have the wastegate set to that and is there a way to adjust it to where it builds about 25psi?

About 2 weeks ago I had the apps replace with a timbo sensor (previuosly I had made adjustment to my original apps 4 months ago) because it was showing trouble when shifting betwen 2nd a nd 3rd gear and also prensented the dead pedal symtom while i was driving on the freeway 65mph and when i release the pedal power was back. Any way after i replace the timbo sensor i drive over 1200 w/out any issue at all. suddenly today i was driving on the freeway 65 mhp and felt the loss of power, but my tachometer remain still @1900 rpms, so step on the gas and got power back release it to maintain 65 mph and symptom appear again then went gone. Also I notice trany again is having ha…

So I got my HX35 swapped on tonight and what a difference!!! I thank all you guys that told me to swap off the old HY before buying injectors. I got my new glowshift pillar gauges on last night so I thought I would see how much boost I was getting with the HY35. The max I could get was around 17psi. Tonight I swapped on the HX35 and installed the pyro probe. The turbo already has a boost elbow in it. On my test drive I was seeing 25 psi and that was on a flat section of road full throttle. My pyro was climbing to around 950 when pinned to the floor. Does that sound about right? I'm running a Superchips D box will it fool the ECM and allow the 25 psi+ boost or wil…

So I have a 2001 dodge cummins with the 6 speed manual, it has 50 horse injectors (50k on them) new vp44 (20k on that) the batteries are fairly new. It also has a pacbrake, air dog 150 which was installed before the new VP44 and a holset turbo that pushes a little more boost than stock and it also has a 4 in straight pipe. The issue with this truck is I have a miss and I called the kid tonight and he bought the APPS sensor from dieselsource.com and HE DID NOT CALIBRATE it. He told me he was getting his dead pedal in the same area I said it was missing at. I have cleaned the IAT sensor, probed the ECT and it all checked out good the only codes are a P0500 ( speed sensor si…

Can someone explain? Thanks

Hey all.. I installed a catch can on my truck a little over a week ago to avoid the oil spots on the driveway. Well.. after one week it collected around 9-10 ounces. Seems pretty excessive.. or no? If so.. why or what is causing it? Thank you....

Help! I am getting a dead pedal every 20 minutes or so during driving on a 2002 Cummins only when the outside temps are above 70 degrees and the truck is really hot. When the outside temp is below 70 degrees the truck runs fine. I've reset the APPS just like I've read on this forum and I've cleaned the sensors. I am not getting in check engine lights at all. Thanks in advance for any help!

After close to five months of people looking at my truck and not being able to fix it - It ran tonight!!!!!! It was the VP44, and so far everything seems good. I cant drive it yet tho cus one of the geniuses at the one shop picked up the front end of my truck with a fork truck and it crushed the steering stablizer, its another $40 which is really nuttn compared to the cash i forked out for the VP44 LOL!!!! Im just so happy its running right now tho nuttn can crush my buzz LOL!!!! I want to thank you all for the help, you all are really great!!! Ill let you know how it goes from here, and thanks againg for you all being here!!!

I'm wanting to adjust my valves tomorrow and tried finding the procedure here. All I'm finding is for 12 valve engines. Is it the same for the 24? If there's an article on it I guess I missed it...

Tappet cover was leaking, so unless someone has an ultra secret procedure, I needed to pretty much remove everything that side of block , I have removed the injection pump before, being mindful of the key, but this time the key fell out. A) tear front cover off and retrieve key or B) hope it made its way to the oil pan.

I have a 2001 Dodge ram Cummins 24v AT with a check engine light codes : P1693, P0236, P0112, P1488. I brought it to a mechanic and he told me 3.7 volts are coming out of the ECM. I just want to make sure that maybe a short or something else before I invest in a new ECM. I also have a smarty tuner tuned to level 5.

Currently dino diesel here is $3.179 a gallon... Then B2 Diesel is $3.259. So now if I was to fill up my truck (35 gallons) tank it would be (3.179 x 35 = $111.27) and Bio diesel is ($3.259 x 35 gallons = $114.07) that is a expense of ($114.07 - $111.27 = $2.80) extra. Remember I'm going to lose MPG so I'll be buying more fuel more often... Now I buy a gallon of 2 cycle oil and it cost about $8 bucks. It will cover 128 gallons of diesel. It will cost me (128 ozs / $8 = 0.06 per ozs.) So if I fill up with dino diesel at ($3.179 x 35 gallons = $111.27) then add my 2 cycle at 128:1 ratio. (35 x $0.06 = $2.10) so my total bill will be ($111.27 + $2.10 = $113.37) which …

So... In the relay / bus box on the drivers side behind the battery. There are two leads, going into the box. A red one, and a black one. The red wire, goes to the drivers side battery, and the black one goes where? I can't seem to find it on any of the wiring diagrams. (if i am missing it on one of Mike's diagrams, please help) I am showing 12V on the black wire as well as the red, and before putting a DVM on it I had always assumed it was a ground. Does it go to the curbside battery? http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1689&d=1301768556

Dunno how many of you know this already, but Stainless Diesel broke 1000 HP on the dyno with a VP44 fuel only. Think they did some adjustments on their second run, and broke 1040 fuel only. I thought that was awesome. Just wanted to share!

First off I hope everyone had a merry Christmas! Mine was eventful blowing the head gasket on the truck, and then finding out the head had cracks in 5 of the 6 cyls of the head. Replaced head and now it runs great. No external leaks but it sucks air and looses prime within a few hours. being this weekend was Christmas/eve I couldn’t get injector orings or connector tube orings. Could these be a source of the air leak? I changed the banjo washers on the back of the head with no results.

After seeing that submerged axle thread I got to thinking about what other maintenance items I need to address, axles included, which I don't do now. Please take a look at my current regimen and let me know what else I need to be doing to keep this truck on the road. 5K - Rotella 15W40, Fleetguard Oil filter, tire rotation10K - Fleetguard Fuel filter25K - BG Transmission Fluid Exchange - O'Reilly's ATF+4100K - BHAF changeI guess I need to do axles too but I don't know how or really anything about it - mileage, type of oil, etc.Thanks fellas!

Alright, so she's back at it again. Probably my fault this time. Any who, on the way back from North Dakota a few days ago, I was outside Pueblo when I heard what I can only describe as a bearing seizing. A loud squalling like noise that shook the truck, and I felt it through the shifter. It wasn't constant. Just a quick noise, then gone. After everything that's happened, I was on red alert. Turned off my stereo, and kept driving, listening. Found an off ramp, and pulled off to see if anything had froze, was leaking, etc. Nothing. So I jumped back on i25 and headed south. She did it again. Loud quick noise. At this point I prayed nothing seized up completely before I got …