2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hello- Newbie poster here, be gentle with me. Bought a 2002 6 speed for towing a month ago, 114K original, one owner, super clean, 100% stock. Had sat for 4+ yrs after gentleman died; I bought it from his widow, Carter block mounted LP died on way home from SLC. Local diesel shop installed newer version of Carter, but I am leery of it. So, am installing 95 gph FASS myself, with G&R dual sump. I have followed the threads here and Cummins forum, and would be OK with keeping stock fuel filter (and deleting the Carter) but don't know which fittings to use to adapt the 1/2 inch FASS supply line through it. Truck is at home (not in front of me to look at), I am in A…

Hello, new to the forum. Long time reader. I’ve been reading up on everyone’s mileage per gallon and I’m embarrassed. I can pull 12-14mpg empty. Mostly highway miles, running in my level 1 fuel economy tune. Granted my truck having wide wheels and being leveled doesn’t help. But 14mpg just isn’t right. I was wondering if anyone had tips or tricks for me? I drive pretty nice to get these numbers and I want to do something about it. I know there isn’t a 100% way to get 20+ mpg but I should be getting better than this don’t you think? All my mods are in my sig.

Got my injectors in the mail Monday. They didn't come with crossover tube o ring. I think it's best to replace them right? I don't believe I should reuse the old ones?

On the 24v that I am building it has a KDP and I was planning on making a little tab to keep that pin in its place, but I was wondering if you had to cut some of the case out to to put the tab in and screw the bolt back in flush or if there was a way to do it without cutting any of the case out. Flywheel question: the flywheel that came off said motor has hot spots on it it appears, being darker blotches here and there. So should I just put that one on there or should I put my old one on that's a little bumpy on the surface where the clutch is applied? Its not terrible by any means but its there. I've heard to not reuse a flywheel that has hotspots but I didn'…

Hey guys new member here! Buckle up this is gonna be a long one. Lol I have a 99 3500 with a 6speed swap. Bought the truck not running from an auction. First thing I noticed when trying to get running was it had a lift pump in the tank that looked factory ran never seen that before. Got truck running by just replacing batteries. Install a fass 100. My issue is now truck runs and idles good but I have no tach , power loss , and extended crank sometimes and a crank sensor fault. Replace crank sensor 3 times no change. So my thought was tone ring so I pulled starter and sensor to try and inspect tone ring. Here’s where it gets weird. I don’t see a tone ring? All I see throug…

Ok guys new to the forum and looking for some help. First off ill give some background. 2001 3500 QCLB DRW 24v 6 speed 4x4 Bought the truck about two weeks ago as a NY salvage after wrecking my 99 2500 QCLB 24v 6 speed 4x4 New truck had a dash fire due to supposedly the blower mounter shorting and catching fire. So I stripped the interior completely. The only thing used from the dually was the power door lock motors, power window motors and the power seats. Ii changed every nut, bolt, washer, clip, and harness and hooked up right at the fire wall. All in all the interior swap went smooth with no hiccups or cus words. Buttoned up the interior and now it's ti…

Hey guys so this pretty much all happened about a year ago, I was cruising home ( nothing crazy) when all of the sudden the truck started surging and gaining MPH/RPM. Limped it home it would just randomly spike RPM to redline sporadically and come down to idle. changed fuel filter and seperator (FASS) and found my FASS had a popped fuse, fixed that. 16 PSI of fuel pressure, no CEL and issue still occured. Put a scan tool on it and the scope showed spike in voltage on ECM, APPS, and VP while the RPM jump was happening. Im leaning towards replacing the ECM. The truck has been off the road for nearly a year now from this and really want to get it back running. Has anyone run…

ok here we go, I completed my swap about a year ago and everything worked great for about 9 months. all of the sudden one day im driving down the road and the van just stops!. it was like someone reached over and shut the thing off. after getting it towed home i followed the diagnostic procedure for the vp44 and after hooking power and ground directly to it i found that it was indeed dead and would not fire. so simple enough i order a new (reman) vp from a local parts dealer and when it shows up im immediately put off by it. it had silicone caked on the harness where it goes into the psg and had dirty finger prints as well as dirty hash marks where the fasteners hold…

Evening all, I've been searching and trying things for awhile now, and still no luck. Long story.. I have a 99 24v 5.9l that I have swapped to a brand new rebuilt ppump from Scheid diesel, new Crazy Carls kit, with 0.093 lines and DFI SAC 7x0.010 injectors. air dog 4g 165, new sump. Initially I bought the ppump from a guy that needed to be rebuilt, but i installed the pump and was able to get the truck running. but then the Rack was sticking so i sent it out. Since i got it back I haven't been able to get the truck to run, 3 of the new fuel lines weren't seating properly so they were replaced. I bought a used Airdog 100, but replaced it wit…

2000 24v built trans, good hd torque converter, 40hp injectors, new IP, new FASS. Dies from park to reverse or forward gears, dies from reverse to forward or forward to reverse. Just had my PCM and ECM updated to the newest file. It's driving me nuts. Seems to be idling 50-75rpm too low. I try to move my trailer, it does. I love around a parking lot it dies. Happens at least 80% of the time. Anybody? I really like this truck...except this problem. Some people have said the torque converter is too tight.....not sure that's a thing or not. PLEASE HELP!!

There is a guy talking to me about 12V's but he can't find any and is heading the 24V route instead since they are plentiful and I am not 100% on some things. He is getting it from a 70 year old with low mileage who just replaced the VP44, so I told him that would be the best one. Aside from needing a fuel pressure gauge, better lift pump, use 2 stroke, what else is there? Plus I can't get into enough details about what I just said. He wants to know how long he can run without a gauge and I said however long you want to be second guessing the lift pump. He also wants to know about what to do when the lift pump does go bad. Assuming he has a fuel pressure gauge by th…

I have a 98.5 24v cummins 5speed, It has a cracked block and a bad lift pump, probably bad IP, so I would like to do a 12v swap. To have a fully functioning truck, cruise, check engine light, stock gauges, etc what are my options? 1. I have read that I need a 98 pcm, but wouldn't there be more then one part number for 98 pcms? I could see there being different ones for: (auto/manual), (cruise/no cruise), (California, non cali emissions) (air conditioning/ or no a/c). Is there a part number list? Am I wrong is it much simpler? 2. What about a 97 pcm, would it not communicate with the other computers and instrument cluster? 3. Which harnesses do I need? I read I need fire…

02 24v i swapped 5spd in place of the auto. Im still using auto ecm/pcm with no check engine lights. Occasionally the trans temp light stays on for a few min then shuts off. The throttle response is weird and Occasionally wont rev past 19-2000rpm. Apps checked out. I've been using the search function and have found that i need ecm/pcm reflashed? Does anyone know if this can be accomplished with a tuner? (Or do i need to find a manual ecm/pcm.)If so any recommendations? I already tried calling a dealer. They had absolutely no idea what I was talking about. Any advice is appreciated.

Hello there's everyone, hope y'all are doing well I've been fighting an ongoing issue that renders my truck useless, it will not rev past 2300 rpm no matter what you do, once you get past 2000 it pops and misses terribly here's the codes are 1698 ive had forever with zero issues and the p0230 is from my air dog. my grid heater is deleted so I believe that's the other two but the p0251 makes me wonder. It's not the VP as I thought because I got it warrantied with no better results any help would Be great thank you 61619919762__5C17D84F-A4A4-46C2-AA6C-40B6342BFF4C.MOV

So I've been debating about making this thing and finally decided to do it. Had some extra time on my hands and after looking at whole bunch combined ideas here is mine. I had a set of 75hp injectors I got in 2014 that I used for about a year so roughly 7-8 k on them. They came poped at 310 bar and I just checked one of them and it's popping at 260 if I do it quick, meaning keep pumping pressure and it just goes pop pop pop few times a second, now if I go slow it'll pop at 290. The gauge I'm using is a cheaper china special, but it liquid filled. I'm going to check all of them here soon when I get more time just to compare. I also got a shim kit from dap that I'll play wi…

I had pinion bearing in front diff go out and need to get truck home. Hopefully one of you smart guys can tell me if I can just pull axle shafts out and drive truck that way. Any suggestions appreciated.

I just got back into town from a business trip, and my wife let the ford 6.0 get dangerously low on fuel. So the family wants to go out to eat, I decided to get 10 gallons of fuel only at the local Exxon station close to home, I never usually buy fuel from them because they are 50 cents a gallon higher than fuel from north Idaho flying-j, but this time they lowered there prices lately to within 15 cents. So heres my concern, I pull up, pour in my 10 ozs of 2cycle, reach for the pump and it says 5% bio diesel, I figure oh well, more lubricity won't hurt. And the truck does run really smooth with all this lubricity, but what I'm really worried about is the fuel clouding/gel…

so i got something in my drivetrain kinda hooking up making a poping sound in 2high, It only dose it in reverse with the wheel cranked to the right.(in 2hi) i don’t feel it or hear it with the wheel cranked to the left. I also can’t make it pop going fed in either direction (in 2hi) In 4high I can make it pop going forward with the wheel either way, like barely half to 3/4 turn not even cranked. if i kept wheel straight in sounds fine but turning the wheel either way it was binding up hard. I was on dry pavement so i know it 4high this is somewhat normal. I am more concerned about the 2hi noise. I cant find any play in any axel joint or u joint…

so i got something in my drivetrain kinda hooking up making a poping sound in 2high, It only dose it in reverse with the wheel cranked to the right.(in 2hi) i don’t feel it or hear it with the wheel cranked to the left. I also can’t make it pop going fed in either direction (in 2hi) In 4high I can make it pop going forward with the wheel either way, like barely half to 3/4 turn not even cranked. if i kept wheel straight in sounds fine but turning the wheel either way it was binding up hard. I was on dry pavement so i know it 4high this is somewhat normal. I am more concerned about the 2hi noise. I cant find any play in any axel joint or u joint…

hi all thank you for being a beacon of hope in the realm of . . . well lets just say "stealerships" ok here's the deal. bout 3 months ago this here cummins decided to not start as happily as usual, 80k miles, all maintenance on schedule. normal start procedure, hit the key, roooma zoom zoom, or chugada chugada chugada, what ever your preffered description. now frequently, but not always, after a 5+ hour no run, it may take two -3-4-5 starter engages to get the fire lit, or not, it still occasionally fires on the first starter engage. a week ago started tracking ambient temp at start up, not sure yet, but reluctant start appears to be bel…