2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I was having some lower fuel pressure with my fuel boss: 16 idle and down to 10 full throttle. So I added a couple shims to the return valve and now I'm at 22 idle 17 full throttle. Contemplating taking a shim out, is that pressure too high? Thanks

New to the site here, and I've combed through hours of posts, but wasn't able to find any thread that exactly described what I'm experiencing. I also tried everything suggested in the posts below but still haven't been able to resolve the issues. Truck was stock up until Sept 2020, except for: Straight Piped BHAF FASS 95 Upgrades done since Oct 2020: Built Towing Transmission Quadzilla Adrenaline ARP Head Studs Borg Warner K27 from Power Driven Diesel 7x.0085 Injectors (popped @ 300 bar) Crossover Tubes Issues: Transmission w…

Not sure where to post this so please move to where appropriate. Question is can a Smarty be used to read generic codes? Ie non diesel? To be specific, 98 jeep grand Cherokee and a 05 set4? Just got a smart phone:hyper: and interested in an ob2 reader but if the Smarty will do it no need. Unless the app can double as a scan gauge.

So, I finally got my truck back from the shop today. Even though I saved a bunch of money by using my son-in-law's dad's shop, I have some issues. I'll start with a question about the transmission lines that go to the heat exchanger. The guys at the shop crossed the lines and now they are touching. My question is whether it's ok to use anti-chafe tape or do I need to re-route them or is this not an issue and I should just ignore it? ThanksAlso, I have a...vibration or shake that is different than the old engine. It's worse in neutral than in gear. Other than that it runs great. Any input is welcomed. Thanks

I got a 2001 24v with 150hp injectors air dog150 with sump kit at wot 15 lbs quadzilla programmer and a year old hot rod pump the problem I’m having is when I get on my truck and let off slowly is dies and I gotta crack the lines to get it to fire up and body know why it’s doing this thanks

I have ran a lot (3 sets) of 275's and one set of 75's and now DDP's 50 hp. And while I am on the subject I would like to thank JohnFax for loaning me his 275 till mine came back. John I will have them in the mail as soon as you can give me your address. Lost original box you sent.And I have to say the DDP's are the best I have ran as far as low end inj. They have a feel like no other inj. good low and good mid range. They do cost more but I think worth it. I am going to check to see if they have the same angle of spray or what they did, what ever it is I like.

Ok I don't know why! Why would you want to turn off the grid heater in the manifold. I see people posting about it!

I went to start my truck the other week and when I cycled the key my pump sounded weird like it was growling or pumping slow and it would kick off almost immediately even when I cycled the key for it to pump 20 seconds it would kick off. I called airdog and after a little bit of troubleshooting he figured my pump was going out so I bought a new and improved "4G pump". But the day I went to replace it the fuel pressure started to rise and eventually it sounded normal again and didn't have any other issues with it. So I changed out the pump and figured all was well. """I just changed the filters a couple months ago and have probably 300 miles on the new filters so we figur…

Hey guys, So with moving lately I've had the chance to make more long trips with my truck, and also done a good bit of lower speed back road driving. Also done a good bit of trailer towing lately. Some empty car trailer, some loaded car trailer with a tractor like in my thread about first time towing, and some loaded 6x12 enclosed trailer. Nothing too heavy, I would say 8k max and around 3k average. Anyway I've been noticing my average MPG numbers with all this driving and they aren't where I'd like them to be. Unloaded on the highway doing 65 mph with 3:54 rear, best incan get with the edge is a little under 19. With the smarty I used to have I could almost hit 22! …

Hi all...I am getting ready to do the W-T ground mod and have a few questions. I have an early model 1998.5 and the alternator is wired a bit different from the later models. I was able to find a picture of the connections from a member on here and also a wiring diagram of the alternator. Do I remove the B+ cable on both sides of the junction block all the way to the PDC or just where I placed the red arrow? Then do I run a new short B+ cable from the alternator, with 140 amp fuse, to the passenger side positive battery terminal? Is everything the same for the grounding mod after this point? Thanks for the help!

In 9/2012 my tail pipe rusted out so I had a new tailpipe put on. Now the muffler has rusted out in the front where the resonator connects. The the muffler going in is 4" and coming out is 3"My truck is completely stock and I've only put 4000 miles on it in since 10/2011 So my questions are.What if any advantage is their to delete the muffler and just go 4" from the resonator back.What if any advantage is their to delete the muffler and neck down from 4" at the resonator to 3" that is the stock size of the tailpipe.The muffler shop wants around $250 for the new muffler. Money isn't really the issue here. It's just the fact that I really don't drive the truck that much.

Well on my way back to a job to finsh up for the evening I was getting back up to highway speed little heavy on the throttle and pulling along rather good and strong then BAM! It fell on it face. I look down and the Edge Comp blinked off for about 1 second and then back on. But there was no power change still flat. I'm thinking the Edge comp finally died on me with a bit more than 5 years of service. So I get to my job and was early so while I was sitting I tried changing the the levels it was locked on 5x3. Huh? So I turn key off and unplugged and replugged the Edge Comp module hoping to clean up the connections a bit. Sure enough I fired it up and Edge Comp responses a…

I installed the big line kit and a fuel pressure guage. Everything was working fine, but now my fuel pressure guage bobbles back and forth when the truck is running and will stay in the area that the pressure should be. When I shut the truck off it doesnt bobble and slowly drops (wired it on a switch). Could this mean something is wrong with the pump, guage, or what? Any ideas?

Ill start from the beginning...About a year ago driving one day i noticed my check gauge lite come on and the volt meter was dead. Truck still running, i shut down and restarted no issues and it was gone. I figured it to be a dirty connection to the battery. It went away for about a year.6 months ago it happened again, same thing, shut down restart and went away...3 months ago yet again. this time i left it running and i checked with my volt meter as i was close to home and found it to be at ~12v at the battery. i figured it to be the alternator on its way out. I shut down and restarted and it was still at 12v but then jumped back to its normal ~14vthis past saturday it d…

First question isIs there and ground wire going to the sending unit in the tank for the fuel guage or any reason my gauge would read steady, but incorrectly? Before I had my box off and had my truck painted it seemed like if I was abuot 1/2 tank i could fill it for about $90 +- and now it seems like it takes more as if the guage isn't reading right. Today i put $92 in it at a little less then 3/4 of a tank showing on the gauge. The gauge never jumps around is if anything is wrong :shrug:Second question isAfter I put new intercooler boots on I fianlly noticed being able to hear my turbo spool up. Last week it seemed to get a little louder sounding then usual, had it for …

My trucks got only 68,000 on it with the PO216 code. The thing that bugs me is it runs real well, with a little lesser mileage, but, the code was cleared and has not come back. At least with a half hours worth of driving anyway.The problem is, this truck is the one I use primarily for long distances. Blue Chip Diesel says it won't leave us stranded. I am hearing conflicting reports on that.How many you guys ever got the 216 code and your truck kept going many more miles? Thanks a bunch for any advice.P.S. I'm already scheduled to get a new VP on Tuesday. Just can't put my finger on it though.

The guy who does the horseback rides from our vineyard has a Dodge 99 3500 dualie. His truck quit running the other day. The dealer said he had a 251 and 253 code. They replaced the VP ($1453), the intank module ($695), labor ($795), and misc. items for a total 0f $2995. He doesn't know anything about his truck. He pulls a 5 horse trailer all the time to our place. We have a very steep hill to get here. Anyways, I was telling him the importance of 14 psi minimum, and an after market fuel pump. He went back to the dealer and they told him that this was a new and improved pump! It only needed to put out 10 psi! They told him everything would be fine with this setup. Now he…

What are the options for achieving torque converter lock up in 1st and 2nd gear? I'm installing an exhaust brake and I'm thinking this might come in handy.

Help! No juice down to clutch interlock wire, can't find a reference to fuse location, anyone had any experience with this problem, thinking about putting in a push button start! o1 Ram. email bwbrewco@gmail.com

Do you need to disconnect the rear driveline? Or can you just put the transfere case and auto trans in neutral and be on your way? Thank you