2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I finally got my oil analysis back. This is my first one ever so I don't know anything about the numbers on the report. Maybe you guys could help me out with whether these numbers are good bad or somewhere in between. The report says resample at regular interval. It was John Deere Plus 50 (15w40) changed at 10000 kilometers (6210 miles). I've tried posting the report but it didn't work so I'll just write it down here. viscosity------13.3fuel-----------0soot----------5oxidation-----13nitration------9water---------0antifreeze----0 silicone-------10iron-----------30chromium----1aluminum----8copper-------2lead----------2tin------------0nickel--------0silver---------0 molybden…

Are these pics normal? The crossover tube have a brown rust look to them whats up with that? The fuel line where it conects to the tube looks to have a sealer on it or something, the pics didnt come out good but you can see something there. This motor is a total virgin , never had a wrench to it except the water pump. So what ever that stuff is on the top of the tube came from the factory that way.The owner told me the truck set for about 10 months after his uncle died then he drove it for about a year then wrecked it about 1 month ago. When I looked at it the bare metal hadnt even started rusting yet so I know it didnt set long till I got it. What do yall think.

So for the past few weeks my fuel pressure has dropped from 19 psi at idle and 17 psi cruising, down to 16 psi at idle and 14 psi cruising. I have checked all my hoses and they look good, put a clamp on one hose that may have had an issue. If I park the truck facing down hill it will start after a week of setting no problem, but if the truck sits level or facing up hill then it takes a long time cranking to start. If I bump the starter and let the fuel pump cycle then it will usually start quickly. I have notice that as the tank gets lower it seems that the fuel pressure drops one or two psi. Other than starting over with a new fuel pump and big line kit, I am not su…

I want to publicly thank you Mike for this forum and all the work you have put into it. I have needed to change the injectors in my truck for about a year and a half but I could not ever get enough ahead to make that happen at a shop (1200$). After ready this forum and studying as much as possible all the procedures I said screw it I am gonna do it myself!!!! Took me about 5 hours but I was quite happy that I managed to do it myself and it would not have been possible without this forum and all the members..THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:):)

For starters my lowest temperature around here was recorded at -20.2*F (-29*C) on January 16, 2007 in New Meadows, Idaho. This was recorded by my on-board thermometer which hold histories of HI and LO temps for both inside and out. During this entire season I never use a single anti-gel product on the market. Just diesel fuel and 2 cycle oil.Now remember above in the specs sheet for ULSD the gel point is 0*F.Now think about it. A snowmobile runs on a mixture of about 40:1 to 50:1 gasoline and 2 cycle oil. This very same snowmobile must run in extreme temperatures down as low as -40*F (40*C) and maybe lower. But what I want to point out here is... There is no problem with …

A friend of mine has a 2001, the problem is that he developed a small coolant leak from the front of the head between the head and block. We re-torqued the bolts and it helped, but still seeps! Anyone ever just replaced the bolts and torqued them to factory specs? Can you get the rear ones out? Are studs a better way to go? Obviously he should remove the head do some work, we are hoping for something less stressful!

Ok so I replaced My vss on my rear axle today now my abs/brake lights stay on! Even after resetting computer by unplugging batts for 30 mins. Any ideas? Thanks a ton.

ok i have a 2000 cummins it runns good and idles perfect:thumbup2: but when im crusing and just in the throttle just enough to maintain speed it raddles up a storm almost sounds like a little jackhammer:neutral: it goes away when i release the trottle it also goes away if i hammer down:woot: but then i get what sounds like a random pop comming through the stack:stuned: i have adjusted the valves and checked all that i can think of:banghead: does anyone have any suggestions as to what it could be

Between selling stuff and saving, I have some extra fun money to spend on making my truck more powerful and hopefully more efficient. I see that DAP has Adrenaline units on sale, so am about to bite the bullet on one of those. I do have some questions as to what other items should be on the shopping list. Here is a list of what I do have or will have done in the next couple of weeks: EGT gauge Fuel Pressure Gauge Modest lift pump (FASS DRP relocated to beside tank with Draw Straw) 3" Exhaust Automatic transmission in good shape, but so far as I know it's mostly stock (accumulator piston, governor pressure solenoid, Servo Cove plate, pres…

Working on a friends tail light problem. Get it fixed and the next day he starts for home and gets white smoke missing then dies. I am thinking the connector to the rear and also fuel pump in tank could be problem. This morning changed the fuel filter. Cracked the fuel line at the VP and hit the key. Tank in pump ran with pressure and fuel squirting from loose fitting. Has had eng light on for 6 months. Checked code using key sw. Got only P 1693 then P end code. Nothing else. Did it again got same thing?? I have a code reader. will it do any better? This is a farm truck running farm diesel from a bulk tank. No gauges! 3 prior VPs. Maybe 70,000 on this one. 475,000 on tr…

Additives are flying off the shelf! And I'd bet we'll see a repeat of last year, the warehouses are getting low too. I'd recommend to the family here to buy a couple extra bottles in the next few days. By next week, It could be gone!

Replaced my filter not long ago and noticed when i filled the cannister (black cap off) the fuel level rose and than disappeared. I thought maybe the filter absorbed the fuel, therefore tried it again with the same result. Shouldn't the fuel stay within the cannister or does it return back to the tank? Any feedback would be appreciated.

Heres the new dilema with the wifes truck. The darn transmission wont come out of first gear. I got first, reverse,park and neutral. Is there a electronic part in this thing that could make it not shift into second and third. She doesnt haul anything, Im trying to figure this one out. Would changing the fluid and filter help?? Any suggestions on the shifting problem would again be helpful!!!

OMG... All the horror stories of how hard it is and troublesome it is to rebuild your vacuum pump. I did mine from start to finish in 2 hours taking my time. No more oil leak from there now. But now I got to get a front crank seal and replace it. I left the power steering pump attached and just yanked the vacuum pump. Man this is such a easy job to do... I'm going to make a write up...

I am looking into beefing up my auto transmission. Anyone have any suggestions on a strong trans to hold up to moderate HP upgrades(120hp max). I dont think my stock can withstand a hole lot of extra horse. Any Idea's??? Thanks

Hello;allow me to introduce myself,my name is ed and I hail from manitoba,canada.I have been lurking on this and other forums for a while now,looking for info on a project I was roped into.I have a tech question and am looking for assistance:I am in the process of attempting to install a '01 24v into a '99 ram.The '99 threw a rod.I have run into the problem of the lack of a crank tone ring on the 01 engine.I had planned to do the crank swap but it turned out that the '99 crank was cracked and junk.So here is my question:I have read that it may be possible to change the '99 harness so that the crank sensor wire is re-routed and connected to the cam sensor on the '01 engine…

I have never had my truck give any issues starting. If anything it starts easier/quicker than any diesel I've ever driven. After it sat from Sat eve to Monday afternoon in an uphill position it did not want to start. I pushed in on the clutch and let it roll to a more level surface and this didn't seem to help. Finally after just letting the starter crank for a bit it came to life and drove home without any problems. Little puffs of smoke were coming out while cranking. Any ideas for me to look in to? (Still a stock truck) Some possible things of note: the check engine light is not on but it has come on a few times in the last few months but then w…

My fuel filter is still in the factory housing and used to just go to the local cummins shop to get a fuel filter but I have moved and would really like to know what to put in my truck. I think it was fleetguard but cant remember now. This topic is popular in the 3rd gen section but it never really comes up in the 2nd gen forums. So, what do you use?

This is new... When I start up in the morning and go into gear, the engine seems to want to die. Basically, sees like the trans is grabbing too much...any ideas?

The ac belt on our ISX is slipping and I'm wondering if there's anything I can put on it to give it traction till we can get to a parts store.