2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Ok gang... Another find I got to give credit to Rcannon over at TheDieselGarage.com for the document he sent me. Its the SAE testing of diesel fuel. I had to throw a quick post about cetane boosters and the relationship of BTU content. This just proves that high cetane fuel tend to produce less power and it also proves that high cetane winterized fuels is the reason why everyone complains about poor MPG's in the winter. Now since 2 cycle oil tends to be a natural cetane reducer this is why most of use see a small gain in MPG and the quietier engines... The fuel tends to burn slower and without the knock. More to come as I dig the information up... ;)

The new HX turbo and 275 injectors look like they have improved my mileage by 2-3 mpg on my work run for the week. That will save me about $700 a year in fuel. Plus the added performance for towing. So it's not all about going fast. Next I'd like to do a Smarty.

So I'm gonna be as thorough as I can, but sorry if I'm vauge.. Truck ran fine, had the Smarty on it, rolling coal...did some brakes and ball joints, let the truck down off the jack, cranked it and started white/blue smoking...dont really recall was kinda worried, shut it down, limped him home and parked. Later got it cranked, parked for months, drove it about 45 miles, lost compression in 3rd, downshifted and caught boost, got it where I was going, parked it again...didnt have the money to fool around with it... 8 months later....got batteries charged, oil filter, fuel filter, and air filter Was running and smoking...dash and all on, odometer reading 5…

I cant find a full wiring schematic for an 02. any help would be awesome!

My buddy that I go drag racing with has a 98.5 with a 47RE in it. After racing this past weekend he asked me when does my converter lock when I'm going down the strip. I told him that it locks between 75 and 80 MPH. He was suprised and said his didn't lock until he wa about to cross the 1/4 mile line at around 94 MPH. He also said when it does that he's only dropping about 200-300 RPMs. Does this sound like he has a problem, and if so can the shift point be adjusted?Thanks in advance for your vast knowledge!

Hello new here got a 2002 ram has intermediate miss at idle in park when engine is hot have not owned truck long when i bought had this miss put fuel additive in it it stopped drove it 500 miles no miss put exhaust on it and chip drove 1000 miles no miss added fass pump and fuel gauge got 20lbs pressure starting and at idle 75mph down the road 17lbs month later miss again if you pull in and park while at idle it will miss turn engine off for few minutes start up no miss drive five miles return home park it miss again so this comes and goes to to shop mechanic put scanner on it said no codes he said it was vp maybe but iv read where several has had similar problem changed …

My truck has been sitting for several weeks in the shop not being used. It has never leaked anywhere except the crankcase vent then only a couple of drops after parking. I have the 47 tranny, 4 wheel drive with 102,000 miles. I dropped the tranny pan and adjusted the bands about 5K ago and filled with fresh fluid. Pan was very clean. Now after sitting probably 7 weeks I start seeing a leak where the transfer case and tranny meet. It didn't start leaking until this week. Any ideas?

A little background on the truck. I have owned it for about a year and the first thing was dead peddle issues, it wasn’t bad just some hesitation sometimes then the crank sensor went out so I replaced it and eventually put a Timbo apps in it. It has always thrown the P0222 since replacing the TPS but ran fine. I developed a bad oil leak around the vacuum pump. I removed the bolt holding the wiring harness to the side of the block to pull the wiring back for better access to the pump and have been getting the following codes ever since. My tach will go dead all other gauges are fine and the truck will lose power but not die. Usually after I drive it for about 20 minutes it…

I was given an 02 QC 2wd. It sat under a carport for 2 yrs due to the young man that it was given to not having any interest in it. We pressurized the fuel tank and got fuel up to the VP44. I cracked the return line and ran the pump until fuel ran out of it. Then I cracked the 1, 3&4 injectors. With two hot batteries she turns over with authority, but no fuel reaches the injectors. I am used to working on 12v engines, and know little about diagnosing the Vp44. Could the electronics be bad in the IP? The truck was running fine when it was parked. Thanks in advance for your help!Chris

Went to wally world tonight bought RPM Delo 400 15-40 $8.50 a gal got me 3 gallons to have on hand, and one gallon of two cyle oil.Well Only change oil once a year so that should last a while. Don't burn that much fuel so my two cycle oil should last a while.Well now that my grandson is in football my truck can get more exercise taking him to school and back

Ok. I'm new here and have an issue I've been stumped on for 2 months. I bought a 99 24 valve that was a 5 spd truck, it came with all the automatic stuff from another 99. I have everything installed and all is good except the PCM. The PCM is the 56040199 which is verified a 99 automatic PCM, however when starting the truck, it acts like a 3rd gen with a transponder key. It starts, runs for 3 secs and dies.... It did that 3 times and now a no start and I know 2nd gens didn't have a transponder key. It has full communication with the obd2 connector but no CEL's and now a no start. I "borrowed" the PCM out of my 00 which starts, runs and drives the truck but I have no commu…

I'm looking for opinions!When I head to the last section of road to my house there is about a mile of slightly down hill road.So I have been down shifting my truck into lower gears and letting it slow down graduallyMy thinking -- even though I have no jake brakes or the such. My thinking is that the down shifting will allow time for the turbo to cool down and prevent bearing damage from the left over heat that has been built up.Any opinions on that?

So I finally got around to trying to fix the 4wd engage in my truck. For the past couple years I just had to pull it out and drain the vacuum actuator to get it going again, but this time the rod that slides the coupler over is bent. I figure, no big deal, I will run over to oreilly's and get a new one. I got there only to get the shock that they wanted $90 for the cheapo chinese one. A quick look online shows a couple for 60-70, but still. So question is do I bite the bullet and just replace the actuator or do I po the posi lock method for $159 ish? I think jegs has one for 109 right now. Anyone been here and done that? Nick

I have looked for info on repairing a 53 block and nothing. I need detail, or let me ask this has anyone ever done it with scucess? I found a motor with 80k and my thought is why cant it be drilled and tapped?

I 've had some clutch interlock problems getting my truck started, I wiggle the switch on the clutch pedal shaft and the truck will start. Today I went to start it, and nothing. I wiggle the switch and then hop in to start it. No lights on dash, no odometer, Battery has plenty of juice, because I just drove it I checked the instrument panel fuse, and its fine. I know my ECU harness had a few shorts, could that be the cause? . Also, while we are on the topic, can I use an automatic engine wiring harness on a 5 speed truck? I would really like to drive the truck instead of work on it all the time. Appreciate any help folks can offer. Thanks

Awhile back I posted wondering if a VTSS system that I didn't think I have could be causing a no start , and no 25 sec LP run that I was experiencing occasionally , I got no response . This no start was happening it seemed after the bats were disconnected for a few days while doing other things to the truck , and then it would run again. I had just replaced the ECM so I wondered if it was causing the problem , but the WTS was working ,LP 2 sec run with key to run worked and the cluster was also , when it ran it was fine , no codes , tach was not misbehaving So it happened again after the truck had been sitting for a few days - bats where still…

I know my VP44 is on the way out, but I was wondering if installing an airdogII now would hurt anything. I think I'll go with the AirdogII because I like the idea of the adjustable regulator. Does FASS offer anything that's adjustable? I'm still hoping the vp44 makes it to spring.

Been fighting with a really strange issue. I used to have strange power issues and dead pedal and the tach would bounce around and die every now and again. I have since diagnosed the dead pedal back to a faulty factory apps and replaced that with a timbo unit. That actually seemed to fix almost all the issues. Maybe 2 weeks after all that, I went to the dealer and finally had high idle programmed into the truck. The high idle has not kicked on at all, and yes it is cold enough, and I'm sure the sensors are reading correctly, I'm going to double check tomorrow morning. But recently, within the past 3 days, I've had an issue where the alternator will stop charging for a cou…

I just installed some DFI 7x.011’s and a 62/68/12 to go with my Quad v2.0. Now, any tps input below ~7 results in a stumble of sorts. Like driving about 20mph in 2nd gear (auto) it’ll surge on and off. TPS and canbus are not fluctuating at this time. Also, has a Timbo apps in it. Im wondering if it’s a result of the large injectors not popping correctly with the low tps input. Anything over about 7 tps and she runs like a dream. No codes. Any ideas?

It’s the 2nd time this month the check engine light has come on for this code. I replaced it 2 weeks ago with a new one from Cummins in el paso because I’ve been traveling, this morning the light came on again. i thought something looked off getting on the highway today when I saw on gray smoke and a little black from the exhaust. is there something that is the culprit usually other than a sensor? I’ll be home late tonight or tommorow, but if I can fix it on the road that would be cool to.