2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

02 5.9 QC dually 6 speed. 200k. Just what it sounds like. I noticed power steering fluid on my floor matt, appears to be dripping off of my brake push rod. Issue is intermittent, does not leak constantly. I know the brake power assist is by the power steering pump. Just wondering if anyone has had this issue and how difficult is it to repair or get the brake booster thing out of there. Is it just a seal to be replaced? or do I need to replace the brake booster assy? Do I need to crack all brake lines & remove the master cyl? Thanks!

Do the 24Vs have injector rattle? And under what circumstances does it occur? I'm getting a really loud pinging and panging, like a metal on metal sound, in low rpms when on the throttle. It happens from 3rd to the 3rd lock-up and 3rd to 4th. Right after the shift, the rpms drop to 1300 or 1400 and it starts pinging, but as soon as I get past 1600 or so rpm I don't hear it anymore. My fear is pistons hitting the valves, and NO, I haven't done valve lash yet. Any ideas?

This is rather long thanks for reading. My truck, 2002 quad cab 4x4 Superchips, Airdog, 4 inch Banks exhaust, 107,000 miles, automatic. I bought it new, has been a fantastic truck! About 5 weeks ago I started to install a new lower dash and a heater core. Disconnected the batteries, the main harness plug under the dash, took out instument cluster and unplugged all of the switches on the dash. Finally finished the dash, put everything back together, hooked up the batteries (they were disconnected for 5 weeks and they are in great shape).........Will crank and not start, tach is not working, fuel gauge does not move, got all the dash lights, odometer flashes and reads NO B…

Ok my 01 has developed a howling noise (think wind blowing). I'm 99% sure it the turbo because its from the passenger side of the truck and the noise continues for the 3-5 seconds after I kill the engine. I have read that it could be the waste gate stuck close, and I've checked the manifold bolts, some were maybe a half turn loose but still no change in the sound. I've checked the plumbing going to the intercooler and to the intake, all the clamps are tight. Unfortunatley I dont have a boost gauge so I cant tell if the psi has changed. I'm out of ideas. Not sure if its coincidence or not but the noise first appeared after my brother borrowed the truck and ran it low on oi…

Ok guys new to the forum and looking for some help. First off ill give some background. 2001 3500 QCLB DRW 24v 6 speed 4x4 Bought the truck about two weeks ago as a NY salvage after wrecking my 99 2500 QCLB 24v 6 speed 4x4 New truck had a dash fire due to supposedly the blower mounter shorting and catching fire. So I stripped the interior completely. The only thing used from the dually was the power door lock motors, power window motors and the power seats. Ii changed every nut, bolt, washer, clip, and harness and hooked up right at the fire wall. All in all the interior swap went smooth with no hiccups or cus words. Buttoned up the interior and now it's ti…

Lots of guys are getting their race car rigs stolen. There seems to be a rash of them going on. I have to park my rig at motels when traveling and was wondering if pulling the fuel relay would be a good thief deterrent? Would it screw up anything doing it several times a year? Or does anyone have any other good easy anti thief ideas?

Trying to diagnose a my truck dying while driving down the freeway. Truck is a 1999 Cummins 5 Speed in a 83 Ford. VanAken Box 1/2 Napa fuel strainer before the Fuel pump Walbro 255 Fuel Pump 20 Mic Water Separator w/drain Donaldson P558000 3 Mic Fuel Filter Donaldson P551313 1/2 fuel line from the sump to VP The Fuel system is all brand new from tank to the filters to the 1/2 line to the VP as of 6 months ago. Here is how yesterday went: Brother gave me a bottle of Power Service Diesel Kleen and figured why not try it, I haven’t had a heavy trailer on in a while and have been using it on short trips. Filled up 38.8 gallons of fuel and poured…

Hi all, it's been awhile, I had my trans rebuilt about a year ago w an RV converter upgrade. It has been great. So last week I pulled my 68 Comanche 16' camper trailer about 800 miles from my home to Tybee Island, Georgia for a Vintage Camper Rally. Not even a hiccup! I just drove the truck a few times w no camper while down there & it was fine. On the way back, it would hunt & then go back to normal until about 1/2 way home than it seemed like it would slip in any gear. I watched as my trans temp gauge started to climb as did my engine temp, so we decided to stop at a truck stop for about 10 minutes. After that it was fine until we hit the hills of West Virgi…

I just want to get everyone's thoughts on tapping my injection pump. From what I've read, if the pump is going to fail from being re-manufactured improperly it will fail within the first month or couple thousand miles. I've had my industrial injection on since Christmas and have had Zero issues. I have a stealth plate, but they can still see the pricked wire when it's torn apart, and they can see the top bolts have been removed ( Probably voiding the warranty ). I'll probably be putting my he351cw on in the beginning of June and I think the comp, 100's and turbo would match really well. Let me know what your thoughts are! Thanks in advance

Looking for some opinions. I have a 99 with an automatic. It's mostly a daily driver and I drive like a Grandpa. We plan on buying a camper next year, somewhere probably in the 3000 to 4000lb range, to go out a few times a year. I just serviced the transmission and adjusted the bands. Everything is working like it should. I'm wondering if a double deep pan and a shift kit is necessary, or if it will increase the durability of the tranny significantly. I'm a preventative maintenance nut so the tranny will be serviced regularly with or without the mods. Also, I'm running a stock exhaust. Would I see any benefit from a 4" exhaust over stock with my current setup? (see…

after searching for a fuel lab to do some home testing.. I found this site. http://www.johnfjensen.com/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf It is 7 years old, but had some pretty good info on various additives still on the shelves today. I always wondered what the hfrr stood for, and in a nut shell, they take a steel ball bearing, and it's rubbed across a steel bar at high frequency for 90 minutes, immersed in the test fuel. At that time, the ball bearing is microscopically inspected for wear, and the 'scar' is measured in microns. the actual measurement of the scar is the fuel rating.. I can't cut and paste that pag…

I've got a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 with 92k miles. I have Afe airbox, Afe Stanless exhaust, Banks intake and big hoss box, and a Fass factory replacement lift pump. I am getting the P0216 error code and am getting the dead throttle. The dead throttle only happens between 45 and 60 mph when the tranny shifts in to overdrive and with easy throttle pressure. If your on the throttle enough to get the truck to 70 or 75 it does not do it. Once it goes dead in will work again once you get the throttle past 83,2 %. The problem also seems to be much worse once the outside air temp is above 70 degrees. I have done a pressure test and the idle pressure is 17 lbs, rolling WOT…

hello everyone, I've just pulled my pipeline rig out of storage. ( 01 3500 dually with 6 speed manual ) and noticed good sized puddle of gear lube under flywheel while it was running parked out side of discount tire. Do these things seal them self's back up after running for a while ? or should I start looking for a shop ? Thnx Bill

ExxonMobil has announced that NASCAR began this month using Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy and Mobil Delvac 1 LE 5W-30 engine oil in its 65-truck fleet as part of the sport’s Race to Green initiative. Tony Stewart, driver of the No. 14 Mobil 1 and Bass Pro Shops Chevrolet SS, introduced the the new oils by ceremoniously topping off his a 2014 Chevrolet SS with Mobil 1 on April 4, prior to the start of the Duck Commander 500 Sprint Cup Series race that weekend. Michael Lynch, VP of Green Innovation for NASCAR, joined Stewart in topping off one of the NASCAR hauler trucks with Mobil Delvac 1 LE 5W-30.

http://www.locknstitch.com/cummins_5_9_block.htm I'm sure many of you here have seen this page before, I do not think I have seen much discussion on their "preventative measure" though. Would this be something worth doing?

Just had alternator rebuilt Monday and worked fine for couple of days. Yesterday when I started truck the check gauges light came on and I noticed voltmeted wasn't coming up. After about 30 secs it came up to 14v. This morning same thing and I noticed torque converter lock up problem until I drove about 15 miles then it stopped. Had alternator redone but still same problem. Batteries load test good. Alternator plug is tight. Any ideas?

Has there been any advances in injector quietness over the ears for VP pump style injectors? In the same topic, do tuners that adjust timing help with engine noise?

Ok so recently changed the front crank seal on my 01 24v and discovered I need a new balancer and a sleeve for the crank but now I have a much bigger issue. Shortly after I replaces that seal a new leak appeared coming from right above the oil feed line for the power steering pump. And its a visible flow no mistaking where the source is. My question is what am I looking at right there? I can see a seem like you would see for a head gasket but I don't think the head reaches down that far. I've heard the kdp horror stories but this doesn't seem to match up with that problem. Thanks in advance for yalls help!

Hey everyone. I have a glowshift fuel pressure gauge on my 99 and it fluctuates a little intermittently. I run a FASS 150 and I also replaced the stock filter housing with a 2 micron spin on filter and located my sending unit in the output port of the housing. Fuel pressure never drops below 15 at wot and never above 18. It seems to only fluctuate at idle. Also I removed the banjo line and replaced with 1/2 hose straight into the vp44. What can I do to stop the fluctuations and should I move the sender closer to the injection pump?

I have a new to me 99 2500. I took it on an eight hour round trip drive and on the way back check engine light came on. I didn't notice any drivability issues at all and light went out after 40 miles. When I got home I pulled the codes and found po122 apps voltage low and po237 map sensor voltage low. Do you guys think it could just be a one time glitch or should I investigate asap? Thanks.