2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So forgive me if this has already been discussed but I went back 20 pages and didn't see anything to help. 2001 HO 6-speed. FASS DRP, 75hp DAP injectors, Quad XZT+. New PCM a couple of months ago because I had been running an external voltage reg but hated the flickering lights and engine lope at idle. I replaced the vp44 with one from DAP 2yrs ago after intermittent stalling at highway speeds. Ran fine with 2-3 instances of a 1 sec miss at highway speeds last summer. thought this was possible injectors as it has 215K on originals so replaced them 7 months ago. this July when it hit 95+degrees I stepped on clutch to turn at an intersection and the truck died. …

Up date on vp from h--- it took about one month for pump to go from dieing once in a while to dieing over 100 times in 10 mile could not take it any longer pull it in grage and ordered new pump. We will see how good BD is on there warranty, 5 months old. Oh and never threw a code. I will try to keep you up dated on what happen to it if BD will let me know.

I noticed my EGT gauge was pretty whacky today. It was bouncing up and down, and when I floored it it actually decreased in temp. As soon as I started to back off it would increase. Just kinda all over the scale. I am thinking the thermo couple is going bad. Anyone had this happen before?

We all know what our engine's blow-by looks like when it's warm/up to temp... minature vapor cloud/stream depending on the severity...How about when my son was cranking for about 10 seconds and I was bleeding off the HP lines? Just clear air.Same when allowed to start the other day.... about a minutes worth... just clean clear air. I had to check twice with my thumb to confirm there was air movement.... I could stop the air easy coming out the pipe, and in about 5 seconds, I could finally feel a little pressure under my thumb. There was a slight 'poof' when I let go but no steam or vapor.Safe to assume this is vacuum…

I've been having problems with my 02 2500 where I'll start having dead pedal issues after driving for 20 or so minutes. No codes, nothing obvious. I've got a fairly new APPS on the truck, the VP44 seems to be good, its always had good fuel pressure, pulls good up to 3200 rpm, no white smoke, no starting issues. Also unplugged my adrenaline just to make sure it wasn't being screwy. The only thing I've really be able to narrow down is that the farther I drive, the further off the speed reading on my adrenaline will be, and eventually it will start spiking up to like 150+ mph and that's when I start having dead pedal issues. Anyone have any idea what could cause…

Well, I'm pretty sure my 47Re (I think? It's a 99) is toast or the converter is toast. Here's what's going on...When going from "P" to "R" you can feel the tranny "jerk" as it catches gear. All seems fine In Reverse. When you go from park to D 1 2 3 or from reverse to D123 there is no catch or feeling that it's going in gear. If I get onto it, it will finally start to move but you can tell there is major slip. On the hwy it will constantly search for a gear, grab launch forward all of a sudden, slip slow way down, or what feels like a downshift and the motor will rev way up. At 60mph I'm turning almost 3k just to keep it going. Pulled up to a relight earlier and felt the …

I was looking at the conversion kits for the front hubs, converting them to old school lockout hubs with real bearings....And they are claiming 2+ mpg increase...that is a big gain for these heavyweights. Is anyone currently running these hubs that could confirm this claim??

I been driving my brothers 99 truck for work. Started it up today and let it run for just a minute while I got situated in the truck. Then it just cut off like it ran out of fuel. White smoke from the tail pipe. I tried to start it backup. White smoke no start. Now no smoke and no start at all where should I start?

I have my transmission out and will be turning it in as a core on a reubuilt transmission. I want to make sure the lines are clean when the new transmission goes in. What is the best way to do this? AutoZone has this, Has anyone used it before? Before the transmission came out, I flushed more than 20 quarts of fluid through the transmission. What a fiasco that was.... Anyway, when I drained the fluid to remove the transmission, the fluid was a nice clean, high dollar red. I only managed to put 30-40 miles on the fluid. Do you think the lines are ok? Could I install the transmission, fill it with fluid and leave the return line off and use the transmission to pump the …

Just got my truck back two days ago from tranny rebuild. I went to pull out with trailer today and make around 25 miles to fuel station. Tranny temp @ 195*, gears are not catching when putting into D,3,2,1 or R. I shut the truck off and turn it back on and it would make it maybe twenty ft before doing it again. I searched for codes and received the P0500 can this have anything to do with the tranny issue? I know what the code stands for. Thanks for any help

Hey guys, My 2000 Dodge has an ATS built auto that was installed about 70,000 miles ago. It also has the ATS tripleloc commander. This device, when turned on, will lock the torque converter based on speed. It has ⬆️⬇️ Buttons to change the speed and which it locks. The problem (or what I don’t like about the setup) is the factory logic will still lockup the converter when it wants to. For example: driving around town I don’t want the converter locking because it is pretty harsh and jerky, so I hit the up button on the ats commander and it won’t call for lockup until 45mph, but the factory computer calls for lockup at about 33 mph. Then if you …

Curious if anyone running a sump vs a straw system has seen a drop in their fuel pressure after install. I have FASS 165G that would always see 16-18 psi no matter how hard I step on the skinny pedal. I just installed a sump into my 54 gallon metal tank and now my pressure sits at 14 and dips to 12 at times. Currently one fuel press sensor ~1 foot before the VP, and the Quad FP sensor is in the FASS pump, both reading within 1 psi of each other.

Just finished building my 02 5.9 and took it out for a test drive, all went well. Before I tore the engine down I was having intermittent dead pedal. I'm likely going to need to replace the APPS? Is one better than another? And possible source? Thanks everyone!!!

Started truck today abs and air bag lights are on also ac blower motor would not come on. Started down road blower motor came on and lights went out. Started truck after work same thing no codes anybody had this problem? Thanks ed

What do you guys think of mixing in a gallon of Rotella T "Synthetic" to regular Rotella T at oil change time?

I figured now would be a good time to change the fuel filters being its double the typical mileage. Stock is suppose to change out at 15,000 miles or every other oil change. Here is what the stock filter and the Donaldson P551315 looks like after 30,000 miles of fuel pumped through them.I must be getting clean fuel because I was totally expecting after 30,000 miles I would be look at a AirDog filter that was black and the stock filter about the color I see now. But I was shocked to see both rather light colored. Now I know to just use my fuel pressure gauge and look for the fuel pressure drop. Because both of these could of gone farther yet and still in good condition.

hello again, I noticed something funny tonight when I pulled in the driveway. after turning stereo down, I went to turn truck off, turned key backwards and pulled key out but truck stayed running then I looked over at the tach and truck was idling at 1200 for no apparent reason. much higher than usual. while it was still running I check the juice module to see if the turbo cool down was on. but it wasn't. at the time it made sense because I had just driven 13hrs. Any thoughts? thnx in advance, Bill

Having a strange issue that I'm trying to figure out and hoping one of you guys can help out? Just joined here but been a member of the other place for years. Anyway I've got the 2001 mentioned in my signature and I'm getting ready to take a 1200 mile trip on Friday, but having an issue with my truck that just started last week? Basically I randomly experience a total power loss, but the engine doesn't die. More like total loss off fuel or throttle control. Fuel PSI has never been an issue and is the real reason I bought the iQuad. Pump is tapped but rarely use it as I'm really just trying to run stock. I've been running with "0" level for the past few months and t…

Truck seems to "cut out" at higher power output... The cut out of power is abrupt and harsh, as if the engine just shuts off for a few seconds until I let the throttle down. It also has been taking an extra second or two to start. Any ideas guys? Thanks. Here we go again.

im starting to get this problem and when it doesnt turn on an cycle its hard to start even if the engine is warm. its kinda like when i turn the key on its not turning on the power to it cause if i turn it off and turn it on then it will click on or if i bump start it and turn the key off then turn it on the WTS light turns on and as soon as it turn off the it fires right up. i can pull my ignition key out while the truck is running, it came that way when i bought it used. do you think the ignition switch needs to be replaced or a fuse or relay?