2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Yup, Friday the 13th and a full moon has struck me... Got the transmission and clutch done went out for a short test drive and came back check for leaks or issues. Sure enough the driver side tank blew out started leaking just above the drain cock. Redneck fix. I cut the vacuum breaker off the radiator cap. This will allow the pressure to escape the radiator and not build pressure. I made 84 mile test drive and no issues. I've got a replace radiator in Ontario, OR waiting for me. $282 dollars for a replacement radiator. Oh well... Radiator lasted 392k miles and header tank seal failed.

Got my rad out and flushing the system and a new thermo. The hoses dont look to be bad but since I there....... What is a good brand of hoses? I dont like autozone anything. So far Napa has been the better place but they are $$ in my town, but will go there for quailty if needed. Does anyone make silicone hoses for our trucks? --- Update to the previous post... Well found silicone hose kits....Umm yea gonna wait on those. lol http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/accessories/dodge_cummins_silicone_hoses.html http://www.mishimoto.com/dodge-truck-silicone-hoses.html http://www.mrbobsdistributing.com/dodge.htm So what brand in a normal hose? Goody…

Some might remember me freaking out about my radiator rusting up so fast. Well I can tell you this, don't ever use radiator flush even if it says its ok for aluminum. It might ok for aluminum but it dang sure not good for the rubber seal around the tanks. New radiator 191.00

Started my truck on site the other day to come home and within a minute there's a puddle of coolant on the floor, rad leaking on the drivers side crimped edge, luckily it stops as it gets warm so still able to use the truck, I've been looking for a radiator and ouch ! Several options Rock is $422 to my door for a standard rad with crimped tanks, guess it's chinese this is for a purchase price of just over $100 Mishimoto on ebag $1151 to my door, no crimped tanks and MIUSA, purchase price is $750 Other option is I do have a new old stock Northern Radiator ally rad with the inlet/outlet on the correct sides but no trans cooler, would need …

Buddy has an 2000 2500 4X4, Edge Juice with Attitude, FASS lift pump, new VP some time agoRadio and Programmer do not turn on when turning on the truck. Happened after filling up at the station.:think:Has checked fuses under hood and door panel and wires look good. All other electrical seem to work right now(windows, locks, cig lighter, ect) and truck runsAny ideas?

Anyone ever do a ram air intake on our trucks? Bhaf seemed to be a good help and a good friend swore by the ram air intake on his VMAX bike. I feel like it would help in our application (diesel no real air fuel ratio no throttle blade) but I know it's mostly a looks thing on regular gas cars. Just curious if anyone has ever messed with it.

Hi, Anyone know a source for buying RAM chips for Cummins ECM 3942336? Thanks. Leaky

I knew I was low, but the hill out of my house ran me out of diesel. Scangauge said I had 4.8 miles to empty, which is set for 32 gallons. Bottom line is ran dry. I'd of been fine on more less level ground. But the 10% grade out of my house put all the fuel out of the pickup area. I can't remember which lines are suggested to crack, but I did what was easy...1,3&4. Fired up after bleeding those. Yahoo!!! First time I've run the truck dry.

Over the last 3 weeks, I've had an issue with my truck accelerating by it self. Not WOT like other posters experience but more like going from let's say 15% throttle position to 25%. At normal cruising speeds 35 or 60 on the free way it will happen a few times then stop. Other times I'll be going through a parking lot trying to find a spot and my truck will keep its rpms at 1500-1800 and I have to hold the breaks or shut off the truck and restart. I tried a apps reset eventhough I have timbos tps. Tried leaving the batteries disconnected for 24 hours. Tried running Lucas for injectors. Tried a known working t…

Hey all, I have been fighting a random bucking problem in my truck for about a year now. It will buck in any gear and at any throttle, even at just idle. It acts like the motor just shuts down and then insantly starts back up. I have done an APPS reset several times and it always seems to fix the problem for a week or two, and then it comes back just like before. Some days it won't even do it, and then sometimes it will be almost impossible to drive for a few minutes. No codes, and I have 13 psi FP all the time and the VP is only like 2 years old. From what I have read, this is not typical APPS failure behavior, but the reset always seems to help??? Any ideas...I …

I been working on The Beast to get it running once again. So far every time I offer to take Eileen anywhere for dinner the truck stopped charging. No joke. Then come back the next day fire it up and runs and charges fine. I drove up the highway to to friends places to show off the truck a bit and give aid with projects. Then Sunday night tried a repeat. Eileen comes to jump in and just as I leave the driveway the check gauges pops back on and charging stopped again. I did run the codes off the odometer really quick last night. P1682 and P1389 if I remember correctly. P1682 is low charging voltage P1389 is a ASD relay no power seen fro…

Hi guys, I understand this topic has been beat to death but I have had the following issues with my 98 2500 24v. Over the last two years I have had random codes pop up with no performance problems (low voltage related to apps sensor) had them cleared 2x about a year apart. Did hours of research and the common thread seemed to be a failing apps sensor (no dead pedal up to this point) So i bought a new bell crank assy to have on hand in case. About a week ago it happened dead pedal, when I pulled to the side of the road it went away. So when I got home I replaced the bell crank/apps assy asap. Been driving it for a week without issues yesterday when I was deceler…

So two times now in the past two days my truck has taken 5 or 6 seconds to start. On a cold start it starts right up. It seems that if I shut it off and wait 20 or 30 minutes is when the hard start occurs. If it sits for 4 or 5 hours again it's fine. If I shut it down and instantly restart it it's fine. No obvious leaks no smell of diesel fuel. I have a wait to start light and I can hear the lift pump turn on. No codes. Any ideas? Should have looked at the other thread first.

PCM P1693 ECM 0234, 1698, 0341, and 1690. Replaced CPS, new Air Dog Lift pump, new injectors, new penciles. Some times it has full power then randomly loses power won’t boost over 15-17 psi

I have a 2001 Dodge 2500 5.9l that is stock other than a Predator mechanical fuel pump that I have recently put on. I have had the issue even before I've done any work to the truck of there being brief second of no power and then returning like nothing happened. I will be driving normal (Smooth accelerations) and every once in a while the truck will loose power and go back to normal in a matter of a second. I've always thought it was a problem with the stock lift pump on the side of the motor so i recently replaced it with a predator lift pump and haven't seen it run below 14psi. But even after I did so it still does this intermittent loss of power issue. It can vary from…

My truck has had a random skipping idle with rpms jumping up and down slightly on tach. It skips at any rpm range and very noticeable. I recently upgraded the injection pump because of the computer issues. This didn't help it out at all. I have checked fuel pressure and checked for air in supply to pump. It seemed to have started when i upgraded my injectors to 40hp injectors. I have replaced all seals on injectors and tubes. I did scratch a couple tubes. I did bleed air from every line at head. I don't know if the tubes being scratched would cause this bad of an idle? I can firmly say that from the lift pump to the injection pump is good. Im thinking it is down to connec…

I have 2001 cummins 4x4 6 speed with 172K on it. I have had this truck for 7 years, upgrades are quadzilla adrenaline, k&n, straight pipe, air dog II. About a year ago I thought I had a water issue driving on a 1400 mile trip on interstate 40 my truck started jerking at around 55-60 mph like it had water in it. Everything would go dead and then pick back up, nothing of consistency, let off the throttle and then back on it would respond then start doing it again bucking and snatching. It got so bad I had to turn chip off. I put RPPF fuel treatment in it and it seemed to clear problem didnt have any trouble with the rest of trip but every now and then it seems to do…

I have a 2002 CTD automatic that can't seem to decide what gear that it wants to be in or if it wants the convertor locked or unlocked between 35-40 MPH... Maybe the apps is bad? I remember when the auto manufacturers made stuff that was pretty good. They made cars that didn't blow head gaskets, didn't wear out wheel bearings, etc. GM had Turbo 400 transmissions, Turbo 350's weren't too bad either. Ford had c4 and c6 transmissions that performed quite well and the famous 9" rear end that is still the standard of many racing series to this day. Chrysler had the 727 and 904 transmissions and also the Hemi 4 speeds that were very good. Also the 8 3/4 rear ends as well as t…

Pressure setting changed a few times when it was new. Now one year old. Noticed pressure getting lower but pressure dropped below 10 towing a heavy load. Fuel filter plugged? Stopped and changed filter. Nope, wasn't plugged. Readjusted pump up to 21psi not running,18psi at idle. Pulling load now at 15 psi. Thought this readjustment thing would end with age.

Looking for input, I'm pretty much stock, but hoping to add Quad Adrenaline this winter. I do have RV275's. I won't use wire tap, just Can tuning (or so I think) . The price difference is about $40 dollars, but Airdog states that the difference between the 2 pumps is the rpm of the motor (2000 for 100, 3000 for 150). Will I see any benefit of running the 150 over the 100 with the mild mods I plan. I was thinking the lower RPM 100 might last longer than the higher rpm 150, but I know that engine longevity thinking may not apply to electric motor longevity reality.