2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I'm going to refer to my VP44 post for the first part here. So you should be to this point if you have done all the work on the link above. So we'll continue to remove the tappet cover and replace the tappet cover gasket on the driver side of the engine. On my truck, the leak is very minor but I want to get this resolved before it gets worse. Being I'm already replacing a VP44 it just a good time to do the tappet cover gasket and fix that oil leak. You need to remove the two 15mm bolts for the rear hoist ring. This is so you can gain access to the #6 injection line nut at the rear of the head. Now you need to remove the two 10mm bol…

Just cleaning up my rewire job of W-T's genius redo and now I can't find the info on the way to redo the passenger side PCM ground wire coming out of the harness below the PCM going to the passenger side negative battery. It's the one with another of those suspect grey plugs and it use to splice into the cable that included the poor design ground wire coming in from of the engine and over the top of the alt from the 4 wire splice of PCM/ECU/VP44/PDC. What was his recommendation on fixing that other PCM ground? I've looked everywhere and can't find it now. Thanks. I'll be so glad when this is all done.

Today I decided to mess around with my edge OBD style programmer and uploaded the economy tune onto my truck. I had taken a trip on the highway the other week and wanted to see if I could get better then 16.5mpg. I started my truck and drove to work. It drove fine and started normal to me. After a few start ups throughout the day, I noticed that the WTS light was delayed, instead of coming on as soon as the key was turned on like it has been doing for the past 8 months I’ve owned this truck, it took about 5 seconds for it to come on. When the light came on, my fass lift pump also kicked on. I tried starting before the light kicked on and the engine would just crank. I fea…

I recently picked up a Juice with Attitude 2nd hand. It came with everyting except the boost elbow. Not too sure what the elbow is supposed to do. I understand it is an orifice, but in a closed system that will only slow down flow, not limit pressure. I was figuring the concept was to keep the waste gate closed, allowing the boost pressure to rise. I was wondering if I could substitute a J-hook (local fab) for a boost elbow, or should I get a new part from Edge? If a J-Hook is adequate, why not remove the OEM elbow and plug the port in the compressor housing and the hose running to the actuator?Appreciate your time,Joe in St Louis

Not sure yet there's so much oil and hard to track down exact source even after cleaning 3x. Im starting to lean to the the oil leak is comming out of one of the two rear breathers due to excessive crankpressure (higher HP truck with ppump) . However I'm not sure what to do about it. Already have the 2 breathers. http://blogs.dieselpowermag.com/6817455/whats-new/cummins-vs-crank-case-pressure/ I've heard that a vacuum leak or turbo seal leak can cause that. Doubt its turbo as its new ...... Any ideas of input into this one. How to test vacuum leak/drawdown ...... and what do do about reducing oil leak. There is 0 blowby from the front oil collector at front, 0 blowby …

I bought this, (see link) to make my "waste of money'' o'Reilly's in-tank pump work on with my block pump truck (to make the in tank pump)https://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-RAM-2500-3500-Fuel-Pump-Transfer-Conversion-Wiring-Harness-NEW-OEM-MOPAR/401565500005?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 and i don't understand how it's suppose to make my pump work, i need a diagram i haven't found anything that makes sense or is detailed my truck is a 2001 bone stock 3500 C&C 24 valve nv 5600 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/precision-fuel-pumps-4602/fuel---emissions-16775/fuel-pumps-tanks-16472/fuel-pump-strainer-16843/fuel-pump-12322/8…

Ok guys, I posted over in the CR forum about my brother putting a new turbo on his 05. So I am thinking about buying his he351cw from him, but I have a few questions. First off what is a fair price? 130xxx miles on it no shaft play. Second is it worth it for my second gen? My egts get out of hand quickly with the comp and smarty stacked. Will this cool them down very well? I can use his old down pipe if it will work. What adapters will I need for the oil input, oil return, exhaust manifold ect. When I tow heavy I turn the comp off and run the smarty on 9. Will this be enough fuel to spool the turbo? Any input is appreciated. Remember I'm in college and I'm on a budget!

I just made a 1000 mile round trip from Alabama to home and back again. Upon arrival last night I noticed a slight squeal with the clutch depressed. Drove the last couple miles to the rv and sure enough I am hearing it while changing gears. When I parked I left the engine running and it appears the bearing is turning constantly. That might explain why it is failing prematurely, only 70k on the bearing. So today I determined that the bearing is definitely turning all the time. I removed the slave and started the engine and no noise, the bearing was not spinning. I replaced the slave about 60k and never compared it to the original. So I am thinking that maybe the rod …

Getting tired of spinning A wheel on slipery roads instead of ALL wheels. Got a 2001 2500 4x4 5.9. Looking to get some sort of traction device installed this fall. Who has what on their rig, and what do you recommend? Not looking to go rock crawling, just everyday driving, and pulling a trailer in the winter.

Well the time has come to tear into my NP241DHD, I just bought an overhaul kit, ( seals and bearings only). I will be dropping the transfer case at some point next week / weekend. Issues are I have a random grinding when I hit bumps, either in the CAD system or in the transfer case. Pulling the stick back to 4x4 makes the noise go away, but I not longer have a working vacuum actuator either so I don't know if it CAD is to blame as I really doubt it is able to move the collar. I also have no ability to go into N or 4l in the transfer case. It literally hits a wall trying to push from 2wd into N, so I am GUESSING that the shif…

99` auto 4x4 , 217 k on my stock one , keep occurring to me to replace before it goes out . Should have already it seems like . Just ordered a bearing and brush kit from Geno`s , to keep this one as a spare . But would like to get a higher amp than the 135 amp or whatever it is , something like 200 or 250 maybe . I have dually flatbed on it and it has a lot of lights and I haul a truck camper tow trailers , more lights and charge camper batterys on the move , also a large 5th wheel same thing I solved my lock unlock tork converter prob years ago with a ATS rewire , don't want it back if the higher amp ones will cause it Have seen geeenies or such for 400.00 , …

I bought one for each truck and am thinking about installing them. Before I did, I wanted to get some feedback from those who have been using them as well as intel. on the installation to help me avoid pit falls as well as things to look for. Thanks!

History of the truck. Truck was purchased in 2002 with 43K miles. Engine and transmission were stock except for a K&N drop in air filter. Early 2003 installed a PowerMax programmer from TST which displays boost, transmission temp, and EGT. Late 2003 installed a PacBrake, TripleLoc (three clutch disk) torque converter, and HP valve body from TST. 2007 spring had check engine light and intermittent hard starting local diesel shop diagnosed it as a fault between primary and secondary computer and cleared the code (don’t know what the code was). They checked my fuel pressure which was around 10 at idle and much less under static 2400 rpm thro…

I have a 1998.5 3500 5.9 Vin 6 24v CTD, have put in a remain VP44 from O'Reillys, a new lift pump that puts about about 16 psi WOT, DAP 100HP injectors, and have done a block test and still cannot manage to figure out why i have white smoke at WOT. It blows a puff of white on a cold morning but after reaching OT my programmer kicks on and it'll be black for a while then it seems as if randomly it'll turn white, then if i turn my programmer off it still smokes white. I have no idea from here. Any ideas?

My injection pump went out last week on my 2000 5.9L Dodge. It had been running just fine, about 20mpg.I got an error code of P1688. So I went to the vendor list here and ordered one from Diesel Auto Power.So far everything has worked out with replacing the pump. Except when I pulled the old pump out the keyway stayed in the gear instead of coming out with the pump. I was able to grab the keyway with a pair of vise grip's and pull it out. :pray:I think I didn't move the gear but if it has been moved do I have to remove the cover and check for TDC on the gears? I hate working out in the snow, ice and wind.Is there anyway to tell if the timing has moved without removing …

In the middle of replacing injection pump when I notice the condition of the tappet cover gasket. It's severely cracked, but not leaking (yet). I'm going to replace it as long as I'm this far in it already, along with the camshaft position sensor - it looks like a bear to access when the injection pump is in place. My question is about the insulation panel situated between the tappet cover and the ECM. It looks terrible, and I'm inclined to just leave it off as I don't care about the noise put off by the engine, and some even suggest it holds water and promotes rusting of the tappet cover. My only concern is it may shield some heat from the ECM, even though it's on th…

Since I've been a big pusher of the ScanGauge II I'm now moving away from them. Being I picked up a Android Tablet for working on the web site I figured I would now pick up a OBDLink LX Bluetooth for diagnostics and also enhanced data. Like SmartyTouch has enhanced data like fuel temp and other things like Quadzilla and Edge does too. So if a person wants this information your stuck buying a expensive product. Now I'm working to get this data for the Common Joe. Here is what I've got... http://www.obdlink.com/lxbt/ Now here is the documents I've found for this project. saeJ1979_2006-08-25Ballot.pdf ISB_TROUBLESHOOTING_VOL_2.pdf 54262388-Cummins-Isb-Ch…

In the next couple of weeks I'll be pulling the failing transmission out of my truck for a rebuild, and while its out I want to upgrade the injectors. I'm not looking for anything crazy just a nice towing injector, so between the 50 and 75hp rating. I realize that power all revolves around other mods, but take for example 75 horse injectors. Are they in fact good for at least 75 horse?

Is it possible to have an oil cap with a vent for the valve cover? I am fixing to install a 12v tappet cover and want to vent the valve cover aswell, so ill have 3 vents. Is it possible to vent the valve cover without drilling and welding bungs and doing what i said and making or buying an oil cap with baffles and filter on it?

Thought id get some input quick. Im going this weekend to pick up a 1998 24V truck that dont currently run. I dont have gauges yet and im not sure i should tow that heavy beast home? Its a 2 hr drive one way with a few good hills in between. Also i will be parting the truck out. If anyone has requests let me know.