2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Drove it home last night. Wouldn't start this morning. Has a P0126 code. Has fuel pressure out of the fuel filter. I am assuming a dead VP44. Who sells a good quality pump?

Well every project I take on appears to give me headaches...I'm beyond stressed . I cannot get any of my injectors to budge (I've tried 1,2,3,4). I can rotate them in their slots but they will not lift up. All my strength and they will not move up a millimeter. I also cannot get my number five fuel line to disconnect from the crossover tube. I'll add pictures later but some of the nuts on the fuel lines are corroded which I suspect the issue to be with that (weird because it was California truck for 17 years). The corrosion spread to the threads on some of the fuel tubes but I'm replacing them anyway. My only other option would be to just button every…

I'll preface my post by committing $200 to anyone whose recommendation solves my issue. This is not my truck in the YouTube video but it accurately depicts what I'm experiencing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xudW4yafWTc Here's some brief maintenance history on my truck: 1. Newly rebuilt tranny 2. Replaced 3 separate TPPS (WELLS, Timbos and Stock) to try solve issue 3. Installed RAPTOR 100GPH lift pump (16PSI at idle, 15PSI highway) 4. Newly installe remanned VP44 pump 5. All battery cables replaced with 2/0 7. Thoroughly cleaned engine block grounds on both sides of the engine 8. ATS signal conditione…

I just put a hamilton cam in my 01. I can not say enough about it. It made my paint look fresher and the seats smell better. Girls smiled at me more. Oh yea, the truck runs soooo much smother now as well. The turbo is super loud through the exhaust. I don't think you would recognize the sound of the truck as a 24v now. It get almost instant spool, lower egts, better mileage, it revs to 3500 almost instantly. This will pay for itself in a month the way we drive the truck. I am definitely getting one one in my 05. That will be the first non trans mod I get in that truck.

In Arizona, we have to get our vehicle to pass an exhaust emissions test in order to obtain the annual registration. Dos anyone know whether or not adding 2-cycle injuction oil into the fuel as a lubricant would have any negative affects on this exhaust emissions test?Regards, cessnaTucson, AZ

Hey everyone! I have a 2002 Dodge CTD auto with 277k. I’m getting the “no bus” message on my odometer screen with codes 900 920 921 940 950 and 999 on the self check. The CEL, ABS, low fuel and air bag lights are on. I’ve cleaned up the connections at the PCM and fuse block, cleaned grounds and still no fix. The truck does start and drive normal so I don’t believe it’s the PCM. Any input is welcome thanks!

Hi everyone I'm trying to sort out an fueling issue that is making me too scared to drive . I put a nice fresh engine in my "00 and I'm getting a pile of white smoke at idle and 1/4 throttle. It also sounds as if I have air in the injector lines at idle. The vp44 is one off my old engine with a p0216 code so I'm wondering if it's an injector that is damaged or if the vp is having problems fueling 150hp sticks? I'm new to the Moparman site but I'm very impressed by this community thanks for the info and your time!

Hello everybody this is Randy from Indiana, sorry it took so long to get these results but our labs busy season had started and i had to slip it in when I could. So i tested a Kendall GT-1 two cylce oil bought from Hires auto parts and compared it to our TDR-S product. The results are as follows: I treated the fuel with one once of two-cycle oil per ten gallons of diesel fuel or 700ppm's per gallon. The base fuel had a HFRR of 520um which is ASTM spec The fuel with the two-cycle oil had HFRR of 470um. The fuel treated with the TDR-S had a HFRR of 425umSo the answer to some of your questions is yes the two-cycle oil does lubricate your engines, but if you were …

I am replacing the batteries in my truck (they were very dead when I tried leaving for work this morning). I also need to replace the terminals as they are pretty beat up. I don't have a wire gauge tool but by my measurements based on copper diameter tell me the positive crossover between the batteries as well as both negative cables are 3/0 (000) and the positive between the starter and driver side battery is 5/0 (00000). Can anyone confirm this? That starter cable is certainly large! I'm having a bit of a time even finding a terminal that size. I'm all ears if you've got suggestions. Thank you very much!

Having a little trouble finding this answer. My service manual says 89 in lbs for the clamping bolt but nothing for the shoulder. I'm assuming it's the same but I just want to make sure. Pic for reference but I'm sure y'all know what I'm talking about Also, just realized I forgot my in lb torque wrench that goes up that high at my house an hour away. And I don't have a torque wrench that goes to 8 ft lbs. So either I can torque it to 80 in lbs or 10ft lbs with what I currently have. I'm assuming it's not going to hurt anything giving it a little more on my inch lb torque wrench or going up to 10 ft lbs on my other torque wrench. Any insight would be appreciated

Ok Gentelman I need some opinions on this one. Iv'e seen Mopar1973Man's page on 24v "Valve Lash Adjustment", and according to his your supposed to turn the bolt in the center of the Alternator to get to TDC, or BDC. But iv'e seen videos of guys turning the bolt directly behind the Crankcase Vent to get to TDC, OR BDC. So my questions is which "bolt" to turn? Then again it is 5:00 a.m. maybe my brains not working yet

As topic states, my fuel keeps gelling when temps dip below zero and I am already using super-tech two stroke @ 1oz/gal. What do I need to be checking???

Anyone have experience with a DTT noise filter and voltage regulator? I have these two little boxes mounted on the firewall passenger side near the PCM (?). These were on there when I purchased the truck. Just curious 1) if this is what they are and 2) what do they do. :shrug:Thanks guys.

:banghead:Yeah gang... I destroyed my turbo with a wire hose clamp. During my oil change and boost leak fixing I laid my BHAF on the workbench and inadvertently knocked a wire hose clamp in the BHAF from the peg board above. Installed the filter and took a ride. Boost kept getting lower and EGT rising whistle changed big time. Hua?! Went home to find the first pic and the 2 ears of the clamp in the BHAF. The rest of the ring I'm hoping is in the intercooler. :pray:Engine still runs fine... So I need a turbo... First and foremost.I know that S#!7 happens but man this make me sick...

Do I need to replace head bolts when replacing head? And can I leave turbo conected to down pipe and leave it all conected on boost boot side?

Lady's and Gentlemen, I have 2002 Cummins, 108,000 K miles, Superchips programmer, 4" Banks exhaust with the power elbow, Airdog fuel pump and a cold air system. I just installed a Wicked wheel. Purchased a boost elbow. Now for the question.......I have a boost gauge, it hits about 19 at max. Do not want to damage my engine but you know how we are.....I would like to squeeze a little extra out of her. What is a safe boost level? Thank you in advance!

I have a 1998.5 24 valve and I leak engine oil from above the starter. I leak about the size of a couple of quarters every night. Appears I have an early engine as I have a cap on the front cover. Anyone have any suggestions. Thanks, Philo

I just swapped out my good non-slipping 99 4x4 47re trans and installed a brand new South Bend clutch/flywheel kit, rebuilt NV4500 trans, and changed the input shaft on my 241DLD t-case. My friend entered my VIN into the PCM so there would not be any VIN mismatch codes thrown. I swapped out my auto PCM with a 99 Dodge Cummins 5 speed PCM, connected the two outer wires from the auto trans NSS to the nv4500 reverse lights switch, ran the black/white tracer center wire up to the CSS, and then grounded the 2nd wire on the CSS to the left side under the dash where there is a common ground point. I'm still using the factory auto instrument cluster and the auto trans PCM wirin…

My 1998 Dodge RAM 2500 Truck just stopped dead in the street and won't even try and start. IT has a 5.9 L inline 6 cylinder, 24 valve Cummins diesel engine. I hooked up an OBD II and got the following error codes listed below. The forum here has testing procedures but the first requires the engine be running (it won't start) and the other require a DRBIII scan tool (expensive). I'm just trying to get this running again without major expense. Any suggestions on where to start without the DRBIII? I can check wiring as indicated. Do the combined codes point to a specific item that needs replacing (the fuel injection pump?) with certainty? One thing I looked as said e…

Well my limited slip Posi trac has just about shot its last Wod...has been week for some time..last winter i noticed i was getting 0 assistance from the other wheel. Comming home THE OTHER NITE FROM WESTERN KY. IT STARTED ACTING WEARD.. IM THINKING OF REPLACING IT WITH A "EATON/DETROIT TRUCE TRAC....IS ANYONE RUNNING ONE OF THESE...NEED MORE INFO:shrug:Richie