2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hoping someone with more experience knows what to look for here. Last Feb I replaced my turbo, didn't get a chance to change the oil line so it had a slow leak, finally got around to replacing that, however to get the gasket remnants off, I attempted to rotate the turbo, should have just pulled it off instead. One of the bolts snapped. not a warranty-able item so I paid the shop I bought it from to fix it (drill/re-tap) During this process, I changed the exhaust manifold gaskets because one of them was leaking. After all of this, I suddenly had a howl at 2-6psi... thought it may be the exhaust touching the frame, so when it was in for other service…

I've got a 2002 2500 5speed that's developed a vibration or a miss under light acceleration. This all started after the wiring fried on my relocated ddrp. I've said since repaired the wiring but sometimes the truck acts like it has either a leaking injector line or its getting air in the lines. However its only noticeable at 30 mph in 4th gear putting through town. I dont have any codes except for a p0177 and I know there's no water in the tank or lines. One last thing as soon as I accelerate or downshift to raise the rpms it goes and away. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Hello everyone.. I'm lost and hope someone has experienced this before!! Bought a rollover truck and came with half ton body. Swapped body and pcm. Original chassis and engine wiring.. Knew vp44 was shitty before swap.. Tried to start it anyway.. No dice.. So a known good vp was installed. Truck still wouldnt start.. Shows batt voltage at the plug with it plugged in and cranking or not... Cut wires off plug, hot wired truck 6/7 pins while plug still connected.. No start.. Unplug the connector and hotwire truck fires right up.. Seems like something is keeping the truck off in the computer.. Shut off wire blue with red already cut off too... Help!!!!

My 24 valve seems to be struggling to build boost, I have an edge cs2, easy edge (position 1 -2 - 3) tuner and I cant get over 17psi on the gauge and only getting 800-900 degrees on my egt. It runs and drives just fine but I just don't have the power i should. I have a fass lift pump and it is at 12- 18 psi. It is a 5 speed and I cant hold 60 mph going up hills with a 2K pound trailer, I have checked all the intake boots and the turbo is tight? Any ideas would be appreciated. thanks KtmKarl the waste gate moves freely, forgot to add to question.

Ok, so I recently bought a 99 24 valve Cummins. When we purchased it, it needed front brakes rotors and calipers. Also, the rear axle seals were leaking so we change those and the rear drum brakes and drums. When we got all done putting the brakes on front and back, we bled the system properly. When we took it out for a test drive, the brakes were extremely spongy and I could press them almost all the way down to the floor. After doing some research, we ended up replacing the master cylinder. That did not fix the issue, so we also replaced the hydro booster. After bleeding both the power steering and the brake system, we took it out for another test run. At firs…

Hi guys, first post! I have a 2000 Ram 2500 5 speed. Runs great for the first 5 minutes in the mornings then she's having what I would say a miss at idle and rpm Fluctuating between 800 to 1000rpm. Once I hit the throttle the rpms stay at about 1100 and will not come down until it's in gear. Also when I drive it, and coming to a stop, the idle is high and makes it harder to stop. I had a map sensor code and got that cleared. I changed injectors (oem) thinking that was the issue but nope still there and does the same thing. I did replace crank & cam sensors. (I was playing the guessing game) I did notice when unplugging the cam sensor that no check engine …

So this morning I started the truck and drove to class and everything was normal. Get out of class 2hrs later and go to start the truck and as soon as I do I know something isn’t right. Truck had a miss and. Is smoking white haze pretty bad. Whole engine is shaking and engine is missing sounds like. No knocking or anything like that. Injectors are only a year old. What would cause it to just go bad while sitting for a couple hours? Had the truck towed to my apt and am going to swap in my stock injectors once I get time (currently pouring cold rain) and hopefully that fixes the issue

Who has done this on 24v ? I understand torque sequence and specs ... Just curious onAny issues with back studs and cowel etc ?Do you need to tap the existing hole ? If so details ? Ive heard yes and no. Any other tips outside of sequence or specs ... Thx

I have searched the prior posts and articles and have not found anything that reflects the situation I have - if one exists, please send me the link! When I start the truck in the morning, the engine stumbles a bit and acts like it's going to die. It then idles and runs "smoothly". This problem happens only if the truck has sat for at least 10 hours, and not every time. On Monday it DID die, and didn't want to restart at all! I don't believe I drove the truck at all on Sunday, so it sat a LONG time before the restart. I smelled no unburnt fuel in the exhaust after a combined cranking time of 15 seconds, I had my normal 12 PSI of lift pump pressure b…

motor stumbles when under slightest load. slow acceleration no problem. video attached explaining everything that has been replaced and tested

Thank you for your time. Im a new member with which may be a stupid question. I own a 2001 2500 auto. A few months ago i shut my truck off and it never restarted. I had no fuel to the fuel filter housing. I had my lift pump replace with an intank unit, first mistake, second i had someone that in my opinion now wasnt able to do the the job. After that didnt work a new injection pump installed, no luck. A computer diagnostic ran, no luck. I have no codes but truck will turn over but still wont run. After towing the truck home, i discovered a short in the power door locks fuse which controls the ctm. My truck has the anti theft feature but didnt have any symptoms before the …

I have an 01 dually,that I bought from my mother after my dad passed away last year from brain cancer. The truck had sat for about 8 months,and after I had driven it for about 4 months,the lift pump failed on the way home from work,and the truck died and I had to tow it home. I replaced the lift pump,but I still couldnt get it to crank and run, it was getting fuel to all but the #1 cylinder. I checked for trouble code but it didnt display any,because the engine light wasnt on. I bought a lift pump and replaced it. I still cant get it to crank,but I did get some codes this time,they are P-1693,P-1689 @P-0122. Is there something I did wrong or something else wrong with the …

Finally got my FP gauge installed correctly. Had been using the isolator but I could never get it to work right or for very long. Now I am direct to the gauge. 18.5 @ idle 16 @ wot. Stupid questions. If I start to notice a drop in pressure do you just pull over and shut it down? I think I read it takes 14 to open the overflow on the IP to cool the IP. So less than 14 you pull over and shut it down ? I know that sounds dumb but now that I have the FP just want to know what it is trying to tell me to do. If your LP went out completely the reading would be 0 correct ? You shouldn't be getting a reading from the IP sucking the fuel correct ? Thanks Rob

I guess I never really thought about it, I believe I read it was an hy35 and then in 2003 when the switch up to the CR stock was the hx35...I know I've heard alot of good things about em and I was wonderin what would be a good/my best option for upgrading my turbo...Can the hx be a direct swap?

Hi everyone im pretty new to the whole forum thing as you can tell. I have been having some issues with my truck recently and cant seem to figure it out so that is what led me here as i know mopar1973man is a very reputable person throughout the forum community. I have a 1999 2500 24 valve automatic with the dreaded VP44. The truck is stock other than a five inch straight pipe. When I purchased the truck the man told me that the IP had been replaced before an gave me that receipt which says it was done around 150,xxx. Earlier I went out and started my truck let it warm up for about ten to twelve minutes an went on my way might i add it is around 48 to 50 degrees here whe…

As the title states, she pops and stutters when I free rev her. Has done this since day one of when I bought the truck. It doesn't do it under heavy throttle, or when I'm cruising steady,just when it's idling and I rev it. I figured it was the junk edge tuner, and a new tuner would help. But it still does it, even when warm. It does puff gray smoke when it stutters, but clears up after a few revs. It reminds me of having a car with a carburetor that has a stuck float, you have to rev it because it "loads up". What could it be? MAP Sensor? My cel is on but it's from my apps sensor, and I have a new one ordered. Even before when there were no codes it still stutt…

So I've owned the truck for about 3 weeks now. I've changed the fuel filters, oil change, all fluids bumper to bumper are at the right levels. It has a stutter that I can't quite isolate. I don't think it's a fuel issue because it fires right up, never struggles to start. Happens when it's cold more but still can happen when it's at temperature. If I could take a stab at it I would think it's the throttle position sensor because it happens when you barely touch the throttle for the first little bit then if you get on it more it smooths out so I would think rather than being a smooth climb (if you were to graph it) it would have a gap at the bottom and then be smooth the …

So I've been battling this 01 into a 99 swap on my weekends for the past month or so. (Didn't know I bought the wrong Year) Got her runnin. No tach. Bought the destroked kit which BTW is not made for this swap. Slotted the holes so that the missing 36th tooth is 60deg BTDC. Drilled out the sensor bracket to fit the stock crank sensor. Soldered in some more wire for length and viola. I now have my tach working but I'm blowin white-ish smoke. Unplug the relocated crank sensor and no smoke. I'm thinking that my crank sensor being about 120deg from where it would normally sit in the block is fudgin me up. I'm sure the tone ring is lined up right but I guess the ecm needs to s…

I got a 2001 24v with 150hp injectors air dog150 with sump kit at wot 15 lbs quadzilla programmer and a year old hot rod pump the problem I’m having is when I get on my truck and let off slowly is dies and I gotta crack the lines to get it to fire up and body know why it’s doing this thanks

I have a 1999 2500 24 valve.. Approx a year and a half ago I replaced the injection pump with a remaned one from thoroughbred diesel and a fass ddrp lift pump. About 3 weeks ago I fired up my truck after it was sitting for about 2 hours. I drove about a block and it started spitting and sputtering. I opened my water valve on the filter housing and air came out then fuel. It fired up and ran fine after that and was back to normal for a day or two. It then did the same thing again and I again opened the valve and air came out, it then fired up and ran fine. Now it's happening every time I go to drive it. There are no codes and my life pump pressure is superb at 15 idling an…